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Thanks, Jim. The table was not square, and you are right - I had to loosen the bolts and "force" it to square it up. Thanks!

Are you talking square or level? If it's square, then your frame is "racked" and needs to have the long corner pushed toward the short corner. I don't know exactly how your frame is made, but I'd guess by loosening the bolts holding it together and forcing it toward square, then tightening the bolts, would do the job. You can check squareness by measuring diagonally corner to corner. Your table will be square when the two measurements are exactly the same. If you're talking about level, then adjusting the height of the individual legs should do the job for you. Good luck. Jim

For years I've puzzled over sewing machine needles and the vast range of nomenclature to identify them. It started more than ten years ago, with my wife's Babylock serger, and has been a puzzle for me ever since. Little by little I'm beginning to unravel this mystery. Heidi's post of a week or so about Schmetz needles got me going again. I have used Groz-Beckert 134 MR GEBEDUR FFG/SES needles almost exclusively, with an occasional Singer 1955 MR needle thrown in. They've served me well, but I'm always interested in trying new things with the hope I might find something that I like better. With that in mind, I just ordered some needles made by Schmetz, and Organ that I think will work in my machine (this is where the mystery comes in) It is difficult to know exactly what needle works in my machine from the package nomenclature. Here are the package ID's of the needles I use, and the ones I ordered: Singer Groz-Beckert Schmetz* Schmetz Organ 1955-01-MR4.0 134 MR CANU:20:05 1 CANU:20:05 17 135x5 Set/R 1955MR 134R 134R SERV 7 DPx5 134 135x5 134 SAN 11 135x5 135x5 SERV7 135x7 797 DPx5 DPx 5 MR SY 1955 DPx5 SERV 7 134R - 1955 DPx5 The Schmetz needle with the * is the one Heidi is using. The other is the one listed as the long arm needle on the web site link that was referenced by someone else in that thread. Now I do know what some of the designations mean. For instance the MR stands for a needle configuration intended for multi-directional sewing. The 1955 represents a style of needle I think, and is probably duplicated by the R, and Set/R designation. The DPx5 I think means the same as the 135x5 and the 134 which I believe is the length of the needle, and the position of the eye. The CANU 20 I think represents the thickness of the needle shank. I know that the SAN 11 is important, but I don't know exactly what it means. Perhaps, how large the scarf is. The MR (multi range) needle provides a particular blade configuration and shank that is stiffer than others to proved needle deflection resistance. The SERV 7 design provides the same sort of benefit as the MR, but in a bit different way. Both have a larger and deeper thread groove in the front of the needle. Interestingly, the size needle recommended by Superior Threads, deals not with what you're sewing, but rather what thread (mostly size) that you're using. I notice that they recommended using an 18 or 19 size needle for King Tut, and a 19 or 21 size for Lava. Perhaps folks who use these threads (I don't), and have problems, have so, because they are trying to use too small a needle. The size of the groove in the front of the needle being the issue, not the needle eye size, needle diameter, or the fabric being sewed. I plan to experiment with the three new to me needles on the list, and find out if, and how well, they work. I'll up date this thread with my impressions and thoughts on each. Jim BTW, I'm not quite sure about the nomenclature on the second Schmetz, and I'll check it, and make any appropriate corrections when the packs of needles arrive. Also, anyone who know exactly what any of the designation codes mean, feel free to share your knowledge.

Yes Sir. I have been put in touch with someone who might can do this. I was hoping not to as I'm certain to end up with a larger work space. Looks like it could be my only option. Again thank you for suggestion Grammie Tammie

Tammie: Have you considered simply having your table cut down? I think it's doable, and having it cut down may be easier than replacing it. good luck. Jim

Tammy: Used APQS machines are great. Industrial quality, great factory support. You can hardly go wrong buying a used APQS machine. Start looking in the used machines for sale forum here. Good luck. Jim

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This beautiful machine has been sitting here in hopes time would allow for me to start using it, but I cannot seem to carve out time to add longarm quilting into my life, so it is time to pass this on. This is the APQS Millenium 30 from 2022, with gen 5 Quilt Path, and upgraded bliss track, with auto advance. It sits on a 10 foot frame. It has not been used, beyond testing it free motion and linking quilt path to stitch out 1 block design to ensure it was working properly. Pickup would be in Belgrade, Montana and we can help with disassembly and have all the boxes if you want to pack in them for transport. I will include the surge protector system I purchased separately ($550 value). Pricing this low to move this along; it is stressing me out and making me feel guilty having this and not using it. $23,000 come and get it! Reply here, email craftnstuff406@yahoo.com or phone 406-570-two-two-five-zero

I bring this thread forward for the benefit of our more recent joining members. I'll look and see if I can find a source for the Schmetz SERV 7 needles, and if I can, I'll add that to the thread. Regards. Jim