jimerickson

Are you talking square or level? If it's square, then your frame is "racked" and needs to have the long corner pushed toward the short corner. I don't know exactly how your frame is made, but I'd guess by loosening the bolts holding it together and forcing it toward square, then tightening the bolts, would do the job. You can check squareness by measuring diagonally corner to corner. Your table will be square when the two measurements are exactly the same. If you're talking about level, then adjusting the height of the individual legs should do the job for you. Good luck. Jim

I'm no expert on robots, but I think Intelliquilt has a kit that will fit your machine. I've been told that as long as your APQS has horizontal wheels it can be fitted with an Intelliquilt robot. Jim

I don't use SoFine nor Omni, just YLI Longarm Professional and Bottom Line, but I've found size 100 and 110 serve my needs. Actually I use 100's more now than I ever did while using MR type needles. The Schmetz SERV 7's have a different needle body that makes them stiffer, so a smaller needle can be used without the corresponding deflection usually associated with that size. (I think Schmetz advertize one needle smaller because of the design). The eye design is intended to provide a larger loop which will reduce missed stitches. I'm sure you will like them. Jim

Tammie: Have you considered simply having your table cut down? I think it's doable, and having it cut down may be easier than replacing it. good luck. Jim

Tammy: Used APQS machines are great. Industrial quality, great factory support. You can hardly go wrong buying a used APQS machine. Start looking in the used machines for sale forum here. Good luck. Jim

I think the conversion is definately worth it! Even if you don't mind the inconvience of more frequent (in my experience the "L" bobbin is closer to half the "M" capacity thean 2/3) bobbin changes, most of the tension issues I've had, began as a result of a bobbin change. Having both L and M bobin systems on my Ult 2, I can say from expierence, there is no difference in stitch quality. I built my own conversion 14 years ago, and it took me a while to get it "dialed in". Since APQS now has all the parts, and I'm sure great instructions for the conversion, I would expect no problems with the switch. I'd urge you to do it. If you don't, every time you change the L bobbin you'll wish you had. Jim

I think it's an essential part of the regulated stitch control system. I have an Intellistitch regulator on my Ult 2, so I'm not intimately familiar with APQS's system and their terminology, but I think that's what the term means. Jim

Sorry Betsy, I don't have a camera, nor a smart phone, so photos aren't an option. What I did was to use the large wire spool guides that came with my Ult 2, and faced them backwards (toward the back of the machine rather than to the front as intended). I used the screws that held a cover on the back of my machine, to fasten them. I had replaced the original wire guides with some Gammill ceramic eyed guides earlier so the wire ones were just laying around. I took some heavy stiff wire, and bent a hook on each end that captured the wire guide eyes, made a large loop around the cord with a zip tie, then hooked a coil spring about 5 inches long, one end to the zip tie loop and the other to the wire between the two repurpaced thread guides. The full length of the rig is short enough (actually adjustable by the size of the zip tie loop) to lift the cord up and keep it from dragging on the table. The spring serves to provide movement and forgiving tension in the event the cord should get stuck on something. The spring just happened to be one I had laying around salvaged off something else I had at one time. It looks like a short screen door spring with the typical hooks on the ends. Hope this helps you understand what I did. Jim

Carol: Here's a thought. You could string a cable above and parallel to your horizontal track, fix a pulley and block to the cable, and then attach some sort of line from your cord to the pulley. That way as you moved the machine, the cord would be dragged along almost effortlessly by the machine and pulley. I haven't done this, so it's just a thought, but probably the way I'd attack the problem if I wanted to. I just have 2 large wire thread guides screwed to the back of my machine, with a stiff wire between them, then a wire and spring hooking the cord, to that set up. It all I need to keep my cord from catching on the back side of my table. Jim

I'm sure you're right Nigel. If I had all the parts for an Intelliquilter I could probably cobble up a system. I was just asking so I could tell any new owner of Zelda what they could expect. Jim

For everyone's info, I've been told APQS machines with vertical wheels (Ult2, Discovery, early Lenni etc.) cannot be fitted with an Intelliquilter. Machine must be changed to horizontal wheel system for such an installation. Jim

Thanks Nigel. Jim

Don't we have any Intelliquilter dealers on the forum anymore?

I have an Ult 2 with Intellistitch, and modified wooden table, and I'm looking maybe to add a robot. Is it possible to install one on my machine, and are there any dealers/installers in the Dallas area. Thanks for the help. Jim

Sounds more like timing issue than tension. Check your owners manual section on timing, and see if you can't ID, and resolve your problem. good luck. Jim

I think an Intellquilt system is made for your machine. Check with them or one of their dealers. Jim

This is a good deal. Just like the one I have. I note it is also fitted with Edge Rider wheels. If you're looking for a first line machine at a bargin price, this fits the bill. Jim

Lora: By machine, yes. Most quilters hand stitch the second side. Long arm stitching is really only half the job. Jim

Are you looking to use a specific type (e.g. Circle Lord) or simply a stylus? I would have thought Lenni has fitting for a panto stylus. Seems like all machines are so fitted. Jim

Perhaps your tension is the issue, or the anti-backlash spring isn't working as it should. Good luck. Jim

I removed the hook assembly, and looking through the shaft hole, I could see a burr. It was metal left over from tapping one of the attachment screw holes. In my case the problem showed up when I tried to remove the hook. I couldn't get the hook to slide off the hook shaft. Had to resort to using a small hammer to tap it off. the burr had embedded itself in the hook shaft. It doesn't sound like you have a burr problem. Have you checked the tightness of the toothed timing belt? It sounds like there may be slop in it. Maybe there is something wrong with that belt itself. Jim

Silly me! I just looked past the handles. I guess they just got lost in the background. Sorry. Do the controls include a half stitch or single stitch feature? I know that Intellistitch machines could run without stitch control, but it was necessary for them to install the single stitch feature to use such a machine Jim

Does anything work? I see that the front control handles are missing. Do you still have then? Is the motor dead? Any additional info you can offer will help us understand the extent of the failure. Thanks. Jim

BUY IT!!!! This is a first line machine at a bargain price. People often buy junk and pay more. If there is anything wrong with it, and there probably isn't, you can fix it. APQS's support is outstanding, and they'll help you with anything you need. Don't dither and miss out. Jim

It sounds like the hook is not clamping down tight enough to keep it aligned. When you re-time, be sure to tighten all (2 or 3, probably 3) screws well. After you tighten it down, try and turn the hook by hand while keeping the machine mechanism from turning. If you are able to turn the hook, without the machine turning, then you're not getting the hook screws tight enough. You may need to remove the hook itself and examine it for defects. My original hook had a burr on one of the hook screw holes which made adjustment difficult. I removed the burr, with a file, and after that I had no further problems with adjustments. Jim