king tut/bottom line issues

[Kywoman]

I need some advice with George. I am using King Tut in the top and bottom line in the bobbin. I am using a 4.5 needle. I can't get the tension just right. I am having both railroading on the back and bobbin showing on the top. I have tried adjusting both tensions many times. Does anyone have any advice for me? A magic formula with a fairy wand would help.

[Mrs.A]

Sorry I can't help. Although some folks seem to use it with no issues at all, I have completely given up on King Tut as have many here on the forum. Superior's LAVA seems to run much better in our machines. If someone comes up with a magic formula, I'd love to hear it. Still have a few cones of King Tut hanging around here somewhere. Best, Nancy in Tucson

[LadyLake]

King Tut needs a thicker quilt sandwich for threads to bury in, otherwise it is difficult not to have them show, either on the top or bottom. If there are railroad tracks on both the top/bottom with top and bobbin thread, I'd start with tightening the bobbin, then tighten the top tension. When I run King Tut (on a Millie longarm), I have to have the tension very tight on the top.

[Sharond]

Try Omni from Superior Threads or Signature thread in the bobbin. They are the same weight or closer to the same weight as King Tut.

[DawnCavanaugh]

Try changing the thread path in the three hole guide to a "weave" instead of wrapping it around the guide. Experiment with using only two holes on the three hole guide. Just be sure to use the hole closest to the tension disks no matter how you change the path before that. It may also help to check your hopping foot to be sure only a single business card can slip under it when the needle is as low as possible (turn the fly wheel on the back of George by hand to lower it instead of the needle up/down button.).

You are using a good needle size for that thread combination.

I know it can drive you crazy, but directional tension also happens on George, just like every other sewing machine. But since George is a long arm, he is a little different in that you will get the best stitches pushing the fabric through the throat, and INTO the throat, contrary to the way you may have pushed the fabric on a domestic machine when one tries to avoid pushing more bulk into the throat.

Railroad tracks on the back that are caused by directional tension on george will be noticeable when you pull the fabric toward you or pull the fabric out of the throat. Try moving more slowly or increase your motor speed so you can move without the needle dragging too far between stitches.

One more hint to remember, a person can actually have balanced tension while seeing the top or bobbin thread. The needle leaves a very big hole in the fabric until the quilt is finished and has a chance to relax (or is rushed through that process by tossing the bound quilt into a dryer on air fluff). This big hole can fool a quilter into thinking the tension is bad when she sees the contrasting thread inside the hole. But the tension is really only imbalanced when you can FEEL the thread bumps above the surface of the quilt. Run your fingernail along the thread path. If it catches on the little bumps of top thread (or bobbin thread) then adjust the tension. If it doesn't catch, then you will have to rely on the hole closing up after you are finished. That can be helped by using batting with some loft to absorb the thread. It is tough to conquer that if the batting is thin, such as Quilter's Dream cotton, or dense like Warm and Natural. Blends, low loft poly, and even wool are helpful.

Hang in there!