birgitquilts Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Hi, A few times, I've read in posts that some quilters have moved their machine light to behind the hook area. I think this could be an option for me, too. Does any of you have a picture of where exactly your light is now and how it is mounted? Did you have to drill additional holes into the machine housing or how did you mount it? I'd appreciate any pictures you can share or direct me to. Thanks bunches, Birgit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katydids Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Birgit Here is what we did. My light cord was too short, so my husband extended the wires so we could mount it at the back. Our original intention was to screw it into the 2 screws at the back side of the bottom plate, but we couldn't get them loosened. He screwed 2 small angle brackets to the light and then we had to velcro those to the back. It is not as stable as I would have wanted, but it works great for more visibility. We also angled it so that the light would shine towards the front. Just had to make sure the velcro was up away from the seam at the bottom so that the oil wouldn't get into the velcro. it holds tight as long as you don't get oil in the velcro. Patty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CucumberQuilting Posted November 10, 2006 Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Hi Birgit! I took a class from Kim Brunner last summer and she mentioned having the light bar moved to that position at the factory. That's probably not an option for you at this point but she also talked about attaching something called a "snakelight?" to her machine. http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/photo/1474235220039390773BQqbyp This is the photo of her setup on her webshots page. :cool: Let us know if you come up with a lighting solution. I need more cross light on my work too. I found a battery operated LED light that attached with velco under the arm of the machine but it is almost worthless. Not a strong enough light for quilting, it would maybe make a good night light if I wanted to leave it on for that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
birgitquilts Posted November 10, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2006 Patty, Thank you so much for posting the pictures. They say more than 1000 words. I'll have my hubby take a look and work out a solution. As I have my machine set up in my attic without natural light, what I want is lots of good artificial light and the best possible view of my working area. Eva, I thought of any battery powered light source, too, because I don't really want to add another power cord to the collection. But the batteries probably are not strong enough and don't last long enough to make this an option worthwhile. I've checked out some snakelights but they really get hot and I don't want to burn myself or (even worse) a customer quilt... I'll keep you posted, Birgit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CucumberQuilting Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 I quilt in an outside basement room that has two windows and it still seems too dark. I borrowed a Halogen work light on a stand from my husband. It was HOT. I wouldn't be able to use it all the time or anytime if my little boy is running around the studio. We should keep at this until we come up with a good solution. ~~ Eva Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katydids Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 You're welcome Birgit. Let me know if your husband comes up with a better way of securing the light. Patty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LindaFritchen Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 Lighting is an issue in my basement room also. (and the eyes dim with age:() I looked at a snake light that would use a 100w bulb. It had a magnetic base. Does anyone know if it harms anything to put a magnet on the Mille head? I've been told it IS a no-no around a DSM computer model. Surely one of us can beat this lighting issue. I enjoyed photos of Kim's studio...take a look...many good ideas! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHofBirgitquilts Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 Hi Everyone, I'm Birgit's husband and she challenged me with one, no--two tasks, 1) Move the light back, 2) Make it WORK! 1) See picture below. I'll post some more in the next posts. I cut a piece of aluminum 1 1/2" longer than the width of the machine, drilled holes at the end, then bent it to fit the width of the machine. You may need to extend the wires as they could be too short; dismantle the lamp assembly. Remount the whole assembly as shown, using two small nuts that fit the original screws. Note that I bent the shield as this gives more light in front of the needle and gives me more space to pry out the lamp if I need to change it. While at it, I also applied plenty of epoxy resin to the lamp fixtures to prevent them from wobbling. It was near impossible to properly insert the lamp with these two flimsy thingies turning back and forth--finito! Continued below... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHofBirgitquilts Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 Here's a shot from behind. Note the extra nuts. The screws at the sides are long enough, no need to use longer ones. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DHofBirgitquilts Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 Task 2) Make it WORK! Correct, I moved the light back and then--it still did not work It didn't even flicker as it did before--ohmygoodness, I broke it! Hang on--Birgit had problems with the light from the beginning. Every once in a while, when she inadvertently touched it, it went off. We kept exchanging bulbs, because they started flickering. Adding the epoxy to the lamp fixtures prevented them from wobbling, so it had to be something else. I removed the front cover and found that the wires into the starter switch socket were so loose, I could easily pull them out of the socket. I opened the socket, soldered the wires to the contacts, glued everything in place with epoxy (I wonder what I'd ever do if Americans hadn't invented that stuff!) and reassembled. Guess what--it's working (or else I would still be up in the attic sweatin' to get it fixed ). Better yet, the lamps starts up without much flickering at all, unlike before. Cheers, Thilo P.S. Picture shows where I applied epoxy... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Katydids Posted November 11, 2006 Report Share Posted November 11, 2006 Birgit and Hubby, Thank you so much for improving my light setup. Now my hubby has some work to do! We didn't even think to use the screws on the side. Those should be much easier to unscrew than the machined ones at the bottom of that plate. Great pictures and explanation. Thank you. Patty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrammaJoy Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 Birgit! Is there any way you could post the pictures again. I want to move the light on my Millennium and since we will be moving it to a new location soon, it would be a good time to do it. Thank you in advance. Hugs, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrammaJoy Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I read somewhere else that Sherry Rogers Harrison uses snake lights from Ikea. She also posted a picture. Hugs, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catsigler Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I would like APQS to post explicit instructions with pictures for moving the light for all the different configurations of Millennium. I tried moving mine last night after seeing Kim Brunner\'s modified Millie photo (link in another thread). I discovered that it\'s not possible to simply move the light. Mine came off easily enough, but it is attached permanently to the back of the handle bracket because of the wiring. I can\'t believe the light was ever put where it is in the first place. I\'m always scraping the back of my hand on the fixture, not to mention feeling as though I\'m quilting blindfolded. Even so, I will not pay $2,000 to \'update\' my 1 year old Millie. I\'d pay $500 to fix the light and power switch problems, but not $2000. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Melora Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 I just posted about the led "lack" light on . I removed my light and replaced with these it is now like the upgrade pn the milli for $21 Melora Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nineva Posted February 14, 2008 Report Share Posted February 14, 2008 Birgit, For whatever reason, since the updated server, I don\'t get links to pictures, websites, etc. Could you privately email me the pics of your set up in a U2U? Also, my light bracket seems to be welded to the frame. How did you get it off? I worked on this for over an hour yesterday, since I have a snake light and do not need the light that came with the machine. I can\'t figure out how to remove the bracket that holds the light. Hmmmm. Inquiring minds want to know. Nancy jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeferris Posted December 10, 2015 Report Share Posted December 10, 2015 Here is an after market LED system with both bright white and ultraviolet lighting I made for my wife's machine and then started to releasing it on the market. Designed for your older model APQS machines that have fluorescent bulbs. It's easy to install and increases your viewing space while giving you the ease of great lighting for your work space. Please visit our site at http://www.mcautomationinc.com/led2 If you have any questions feel free to shoot us an email. Happy Quilting! Attached Thumbnails Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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