Sheagatzi Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 We are in the process of building a new home and the next stage for us is determining lighting/electrical placement in all of the rooms. In my current home I have overhead fluorescent lighting which is amazing for piecing, sewing, etc but not at all for long arm quilting. I find I am quilting in the dark most of the time with a sidelight (that recently broke!!argh!!) If you could put lighting in your studio just for your machine- would you do track lighting, fluorescent or just the typical light fixture and upgrade your apqs lighting instead? I was considering the Deloa jones/ Dave's Deelite lighting system instead. I am still not happy with my lighting in my home, so I really want to make sure I get it right! Right now, I quilt in the dark with my side light (RIP) and it still isn't the ideal situation. I was thinking that maybe the Dave's lighting system may be good for lighting that cast shadows if I angle them enough? Does anyone have experience with that system, and does it work well for that 'sidelight' effect? I really need to see the texture/quilting with shadows. Maybe I'm blind or something, but I cannot see my quilting when I have overhead lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cagey Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I know nothing about long arm quilting, but I have learned a great deal from Jamie Wallen's instructional videos and those on YouTube. This might help your illumination problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4-t871-Q_U Cagey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheagatzi Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Hi Cagey - yes, I forgot to put that in my post. I have made a JW light and it is 'okay' but still not quite there. I used a few rows of LED strips. I guess in building my house, I figure i can customize somewhat instead of having all of my diy stuff everywhere LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilting Heidi Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 When my husband finished our basement he put in pot lights, I have 6 in each room, about 12 x 12. 2 are always on and I can add 4 more if needed. That said I would get Dave and Deloa's lights in a heartbeat. I love that they are designed specifically for our machines and you can turn them to get the exact about of light you want. They are super bright. On top of that if you stage your room right you can even rotate the light around to your sewing machine when needed. Worth the money I think. I've told Dave many times I would have gotten them already if it weren't for the fact that hubby went to all the trouble to make sure I had plenty of lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fastquilts Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I have Daves lights and absolutely love them. Like you I was always quilting in the dark before but not now. You will never regret getting them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheagatzi Posted January 28, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Heidi and Fastquilts - so it does the 'sidelight' effect well then? I really feel like I'm obsessed with seeing properly lately. Maybe just the token center ceiling mount fixture in the middle and the Dave's lights ? It's a 15 x 14 area that opens up to a rec room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilting Heidi Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 You can turn the lights up, down or at an angle. So if you don't want full on light you turn it at an angle. If we get the new house we want I will be investing in Dave lights and not getting hubby to do the lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 Andrea: When we added on and renovated our studio, I replaced the fluorescent lighting we had with track lighting and LED floods. In the piecing room (16' x 22') we have two tracks about 20' long running the length of the room. We have two work stations against the walls on each side of the room, and the track is pretty much centered over the work stations. (they are 60" x 48" long side to the middle of the room, and are shared with workers facing each other) So the track is about 3' - 3.5' from the side walls. I used fixtures that hold Par 38 floods (I think they are 120 degree floods, but they might be narrower). Each flood is rated at about 1000 lumens. There are 5 floods on each track located and pointed so they illuminate the work areas. They provide plenty of light for the space. If they didn't, all I have to do is add more fixtures and floods. When I built the first addition to the studio back in '08, I installed track lighting in the room that is now our cutting room. I put MR 16 fixtures and halogen bulbs in that track. The light was good, but they were hot when your got near them. The woman who owns the studio was opposed to the track lights and wanted me to put in fluorescent light like she already had elsewhere. I went ahead with the tracks anyway. (one of the benefits of being volunteer labor) We've installed LED's in all the track fixtures which has eliminated the heat problem. They also require very little electricity to operate which improves operating costs. Now she says it was one of the best decisions we made in the remodel. I replaced the MR 16's with Par 38's, and added track to replace the fluorescent in the cutting/pressing room. I think I have 12 in there now, and the track is routed around and over the tables to provide task lighting. When I originally built MY quilting room, I built a light bar with 7 par 30 floods. The bulbs I originally used were halogen, which were fine here in the winter when I need to heat the room, but that were pretty hot in the summer. I've since replaced those floods with LED's as well. The benefit to the track and independent fixtures is that you can add/remove or direct light anywhere you want. The quality of LED light is much nicer to work under than fluorescent. I used "warm" LED's (2700k-3000k), so the light is much like sunlight. I am a real fan of track lighting because of the flexibility it offers. It makes lighting design much easier because you can tune your lights to their use after they have been installed. You don't have to know exactly how you will use the space, or how to light it before it's finished. The only down side to track lighting is it's appearance, but then fluorescent isn't exactly beautiful. I think that Dave's light bar is probably based on a track system, but I don't really know. I originally intended on building a light system that was part of Zelda's table, but decided to just span the space over her because it was only a couple of feet longer, and I was afraid that the vibration of the machine might make the light "dance" when I sewed. The 7 floods ( 750 lumens each) do a good job of illuminating Zelda's table. I used the original fluorescent light APQS built into the Ult 2 until recently. I decided that I wanted a bit more light, and didn't like the heat of the fluorescent, so I set about building a replacement LED lamp for Zelda. I built a light and reported it here a few months back. Now I think I probably over did it a bit, but I have to say I am not without adequate light! I used three 300 lumen LED's a total of 900. That's more than was necessary. I guess I could have used only two, but I was afraid of shadows and used 3 instead. If I were to do it again, I still would use three, but would probably go for a less powerful LED - maybe 200 - 250 lumens each. Do you have an LED light on your machine now? If not, that's probably where you should start. It's hard to light your quilting area without the light being on the machine. When I built my house 15 years ago, I struggled a lot with lighting design. I ended up settling on a good bit of track lighting (in the kitchen, the laundry room, the great room, and library) and some cable systems in the dining area, and one of the bedrooms. I didn't get it exactly perfect, but I've been able to add lights, and re-direct them to suit my needs. I have to say I'm pretty happy with the result. I hope my experience will be helpful to you. Regards. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neher-in-law5 Posted January 28, 2015 Report Share Posted January 28, 2015 I would encourage you to have separate areas with separate light arrangement instead of just one at the switch. I sew in our A-frame loft (also the bedroom) with floor space of 15 x 21. We have some "redneck" DIY with a fixture over my sewing machine, another over George and a short track at the 2/3 distance to the back of the room. The track has 3 lamps that can be directed to get into the angles and shadows. All three are on separate switches so not everything needs to be on at the same time. I would also strongly suggest that outlets be put higher on the wall so the cords from the sewing machines, iron, computer, etc. can be easily accessed instead of needing to crawl around on the floor every time you need to plug or unplug something. I would also use more outlets than code requires, a 4 outlet instead of 2 so there is less need for power strips. With all the electronic items we live with now, more outlets are used than ever used to be when we were younger. Get as much as you can afford now so they are there when you need them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LisaC Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Before I lit up my space, I visted a local electrical shop and we discussed my needs and they came up with a plan that would work for me; there was no charge from them to do this. I love my lighting and it works perfectly for me. I did not hire them to do the installation either; they provided the service without any committment on my part. My husband installed my system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheagatzi Posted January 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 Wow, Jim thanks so much for the detailed info. I feel a little 'glazed look' when you start talking about lumens. LOL IF i just print it out and hand it to the electrician, he will get the idea! I really appreciate the info, it will be super helpful thank you!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QuiltGuy Posted January 29, 2015 Report Share Posted January 29, 2015 I have Dave and Deloas lights and they are great. They are VERY bright and can be adjusted but they can't be swiveled to be true sidelight like Jamie's light. I suspect it really takes more than one single system to get what you need...but in general I am thrilled with my purchase. They often have show specials too. I installed them myself, and thought it was pretty easy...but if Dave is in your area I suspect it would be inexpensive to get him to do it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 Andrea: The lumen out put of the lamps are important because that's how much light is given off. It's also how you compare one type bulb to another. Much more reliable than wattage. Sometimes the manufacturers don't tell you what the ratings are, although recently more and more are. I don't really know what you have in mind, so it's hard to give your specific instructions. Are you going to install a light bar on your machine table or build a lighting system separate form it? The distance the lights are from the quilt will dictate lumens. The further the lights from the work, the more lumens required, the closer, the fewer. All the variables associated with the space and how you wish to light it, is what makes lighting design difficult. That's why I am so fond of track lighting. All you have to do is figure out where you want the light coming from, install the track, then attach fixtures with different lamps, move and change until you get what you want. I bought almost all my parts (track, connectors, fixtures and bulbs) on line. Having a good idea how much light I needed, allowed me to shop both price and item. I wouldn't have been able to find the parts I chose locally. Few sellers carry that extensive an inventory. Let me know if you have any specific questions. I might be able to help. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dancingraisin Posted January 30, 2015 Report Share Posted January 30, 2015 As to pot lights, I am slowly replacing them throughout my house with the LED versions, which are cooler, energy efficient and very clear bright light. You need to install an appropriate dimmer. I second the vote for working with a local electrician who knows his lighting--start with whoever your GC is using in the construction and work from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RitaR Posted February 5, 2015 Report Share Posted February 5, 2015 We found electric outlets to be badly lacking when we bought this house. Himself ran several outlets into various rooms, one in the master bedroom, three in the quilt room, 3 on diff lines from one another, one tied to the bedroom,one to each of the bathrooms. We also made sure that in the living room there were two double outlets, on all 4 walls, same with two walls in the den, two new and totally singles in the kitchen. I feel a person can't be too cautious when it comes to heating elec. wires up due to insuffient power. I worked cleaning out homes that had burned, and it wasn't pleasant to see all the damage there was done. It still makes my heart hurt to think about it. I've heard over and over how much people like DeLoa and Daves lighting fixtures. I'm finding out I need more lighting than I had and know I now need more. Considering options, and think I'll go with the little light strips R&S sells, and put them on the inside of the throat. Good luck, really hoping you will like your decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinequilts Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 I just found this post and for me it is very timely. I am in the process of changing my PAR30 halogen flood lights with LED bulbs to reduce heat and expense. I have an 8' track in a small sewing room (not my longarm studio). I have 6 fixtures on the track pointing to various task areas in the room - the sewing machine, cutting table, ironing board, etc. The current bulbs have 40 degree flood and are 75 watts each. I found replacement bulbs at walmart that are 850 lumens and called 'daylight'. And I was thinking of adding a dimmer switch so I can tone it down if need be. My question is this. Jim - you said you use a warm light rather than a daylight bulb. Is there a reason for this? I was planning to buy all daylight bulbs because I am under the impression that daylight bulbs will give me the best clarity of colour and be the best to work under. What do others have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neher-in-law5 Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 Good question Caroline, hubby and I were just in Lowes last week looking at kitchen lighting since he bought LED lights for that fixture and two of them popped off shortly after putting them in--I think it was the combo of wrong fixture (maybe with a short) and different technology bulbs. Anyway, when we looked for bulbs, the LED would give the most light with the least heat and longest life, if I remember right. I had the salesman take me through the difference of the warm/yellow, daylight, and blue/cool light distinctions. The warm/yellow has more of a yellow cast that is softer to the light than the daylight. Daylight will give the most true and brighter light, it won't change your fabric/paint colors as much as the warm or blue. The blue light is the highest in the rankings and really have a sharper/harsher light that can also change the shades of colors of fabrics/paints. Because my eyes give me problems in low light/dim light I chose to go with the daylight. The warm/yellow light would start to be too dark in the room/area when the conditions of the day/night change. The blue would have been pretty harsh to be in for a long period of time for me---but if the eyes keep getting worse, I might find them better later in my life. I hope this helps. Be sure to get the ones for your eyes, not just our recommendations. See if you can find a display that uses the actual bulbs to show the differences between them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcclannan Posted February 9, 2015 Report Share Posted February 9, 2015 I have Dave and Deloa's light system and I really love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carolinequilts Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thank you Madelyn. I purchased the daylight bulbs and am trying them out now. I only replaced 2 of the 6 bulbs so far - so the other 4 are still the halogen soft lights. I find that the room seems much cooler in tone and am liking it so far - but it is different. I'm hoping it won't be too blue when I get all 6 replaced. I read somewhere that daylight bulbs can offset seasonal affective disorder (SAD), which I have never had a problem with, but it is another point it the daylight bulbs favour. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neher-in-law5 Posted February 11, 2015 Report Share Posted February 11, 2015 Caroline, I don't think the daylight bulbs turn the room blue, they are more of a true light. The blue light is the one that really shows blue and is extra bright to be almost harsh. I'm glad you are able to take your time to see which one works best for you before you replace them all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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