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"L" vs "M" bobbins?????


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I was reading on the APQS site that you can get a machine with either "L" or "M" size bobbins.  My machine has the larger "M" size and I love it.  Are the "L" size bobbins for APQS different from regular size bobbins for other machines?  I don't understand why anyone wouldn't want the larger bobbins unless the "L" size are special.

 

Just curious.

 

Thanks

 

David

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I think the idea behind the L bobbins is more consistent tension with fast sharp movements and preventing backlash - I have L bobbins and I don't know if I'd go up to M's if I had the option or not to be truthful.  I don't have enough experience with M's to say - but I am happy with my L sized bobbin. 

 

...and yes it's the same L that would be used for a domestic sit down - I actually can go back and forth between my Juki and Millie with bobbins.   :)

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When I was deciding if I was going to purchase my George, APQS told me exactly what Valerie wrote above.  I was told you get approximately 15 to 20  more yards of thread on a M bobbin than you can on a L bobbin.

 

These prices come directly from the APQS website.

 

 

Aluminum Bobbin -- Style "L" $0.90 Aluminum Bobbin -- Style "M" $3.00

 

Bobbin Case -- Style "L" $11.95 Bobbin Case -- Style "M" $54.00 Bobbin Case Brake Spring -- Style "L" $2.25 Bobbin Case Brake Spring -- Style "M"

$2.65

 

 

Hook Assembly -- Style "L" $89.95 Hook Assembly -- Style "M" $215.00 Hook Retaining Finger -- Style "L" $15.00 Hook Retaining Finger -- Style "M"  $15.00 Metal Bobbin -- Style "L" $0.75 Metal Bobbin -- Style "M" $3.00

 

For the cost differential between the comparative parts, and the fact that I do not do this for a business, I felt the L size bobbin would work just fine for me.  Changing bobbins slightly more often, and the supposedly better stitching for small detail work won out for me.  Any cost differential could would be used on other things that I will just have to have for George/quilting.  Though in the end, it truly came down to the fact that the used George I ended up purchasing was configured with an L sized bobbin.  

 

One more item, you will have to check with APQS but after mid-year 2010 (on George at least), you can upgrade the gearbox to go from L bobbins to M bobbins for not that much money.  If you have an earlier 2010 like I do, it is about a $1000 modification as I remember.  The machine has to be sent back to the factory, and they install pretty much a new gearbox to allow the M sized bobbins/hook assembly to be used.  Amy at APQS can tell you exactly what to look for on the gearbox to tell you if the gearbox can be easily or not, and she can tell you the exact pros/cons of each bobbin type.

 

Good luck shopping.

 

Cagey

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Thanks for the replies.  That answers my questions.  Curiosity kills me.  I don't think I would pay an additional $1,000 to update from smaller bobbin to larger bobbin...that would buy an awful lot of thread and fabric.

 

David

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The M bobbin holds significantly more thread than the L bobbin. The Superior Thread website compares the L and M bobbins. If you wind the bobbins yourself using SF #50 the L holds 38 yds. versus M at 92 yds. For Bottomine L holds 70 yds. versus M at 125 yds. Their prewound bobbins hold much more thread regardless of the bobbin type. The example they show SF #50 L - 76 yds. versus M - 138 yds. and Bottomline (Super Bobs) L - 118 yds. versus M - 215 yds.
Leslie

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I don't know exactly how many yards of the various size threads are held by each, but I do know that the M's hold twice that held by the L's.  I wound both on my winder using the same thread to satisfy my curiousity.  It took 2 L's to fill the M.  Since I changed the L system originally on my Ult2, to an M system, I had the opportunity to compare stitch quality of the same machine with both the L system, and the M system.  I could detect no difference.  Most of the sewing problems I encounter while quilting, occur immediately after changing a bobbin, so half as may changes, means a lot to me.  Jim

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Leslie:  Since I use Bottom Line as my bobbin thread almost exclusively, I was surprised by the thread amounts you cited for the Super-Bobs.  (BTW, I don't use Super-Bobs, I wind my own)  So I just checked their site.  I think you made a typo.  Their site says 118 yards for the L, not 188.  That's more in keeping with my test.  Regards.  Jim

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When I ordered my Freddie I already knew that I was going to be adding an IQ and quilting mostly E2Es. That's why I opted for the 'M' bobbin. I wind my own So Fine 50wt bobbins and love them. There's been no backlashes or any problems with the bobbin tensions at all. Fantastic stitches. So I don't entirely believe the original reasons behind the 'L' bobbin. However, where I do think that a 'L' bobbin is superior is when you're doing a lot of custom work with many thread changes. That way you can easily track how many bobbins you use if you're running a business. Also you don't have to have a large amount of 'M' bobbins sitting around half-full. So far I've discovered that I use anywhere from 2 to 4 bobbins on queen and king quilts depending on the density of the quilting pattern.

 

If I ever get to the point of wanting to do custom quilting then I'll probably want to buy another large package of bobbins to have on hand. But that's many, many practice quilts away for now.  :P

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I don't have an APQS but I have to say I love my M bobbin and if I did get another machine, it would have to have an M bobbin.

Some may feel the perfect tension is harder to achieve with an M bobbin but I haven't found that to be the case.

I've had an L bobbin machine and had all the same issues.

I think once you figure out how to set your tension, life's a breeze :)

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