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super Bob prewound bobins


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Hey all,

I have been experimenting with pre-wound bobbins and would love to get an informal survey of what you all do when using Superiors Super Bobs pre-wound bottom line bobbins . Do you take the cardboard off only on the side that is up against the inside of the bobbin? Do you take both cord board sides off both ends and then adjust bobbin tension after each modification?? or do you leave both card board sides on the pre-wound and still get pretty stitches? I actually called superior the other day and the advise I got was pretty useless.."it;s what ever you would like to do" . Well I feel like my tension is sub-optimal when using them in-spite of the fact that they are suppose to be a good product. I love to love these as the magna-glide classics are just so much more expensive.  To add a little more twist in this survey , do you use the spring in the back of the bobbin casing or have you removed it and use a bobbin genie washer by Sharon Schamber?? Do you think they help?? I know this is several questions wrapped into one, but ultimately related. 

I know I can count on all you expert advice !

Thanks, Debbie

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I use super bobs exclusively. I use a towa gauge after inserting the bobbin in my case with metal spring still in it. After measuring the tension on the gauge I can determine if I need to remove the cardboard on the inside of the bobbin. The only time I need to do that is if the bobbin has been over filled. You can pretty much tell by the look of the bobbin that it has been overfilled. It bulges a little. I have never removed both sides of the cardboard. I luv the stitch I get with super bobs in the bobbin and signature 100% cotton on the top.

Linda Esenbock

Quilt 4 You

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I use Superior pre-wounds almost exclusively.

 

My method is--

Apply Sewer's Aid

Remove the cardboard on the side that will face out when the bobbin is in the case

Check tension with the Towa Gauge

The spring is in the case. 

 

As you can tell, Superior saying "do what you want to do" is valid advice. The gauge and Sewer's Aid have allowed me to be very confident using any bobbin, whether pre-wound or self-wound. Removing the cardboard from the outside lessens the tension on the bobbin, since only the ring of the core is pushed against the back of the bobbin area instead of the disc of cardboard. But I adjust the tension to mostly the same number on the gauge, no matter if the cardboard is removed or not.

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As you can tell, Superior saying "do what you want to do" is valid advice.

With that being shared by Linda, is there any advantages/disadvantages from removing or not removing the cardboard side(s).  I only ask, as a newbie I would think if I adjust the TOWA tension to my number, than the bobbin case should maintain that tension regardless of how the bobbin is configured.  

 

On my recent teacher's quilt, I did exactly that and experienced no tension issues when using the Superior thread bobbins.  I'd like to know if I did something right, or if I was just lucky in this case.  I would like to have constant results going forward. 

 

Cagey

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Jim, I apply Sewer's Aid (liquid silicon) to every bobbin and every cone. I apply around the entire bobbin by putting it in the case and pulling the thread to slowly spin the bobbin while holding the tip of the bottle to the thread. The thread darkens a lot so you can see where it's dispensing. Same with the cone---no skimpy "three lines down the side". I apply lines close together all around. I seldom have any thread breakage--just occasional shredding with Rainbows and such, and if that happens, I slather on some more.

It could be a placebo, but since it works for me, I'll keep doing it this way. :P

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My Towa Gauge is my FRIEND!

I check then tension of every bobbin I use in  my machine and make sure it is on my "magic number"  when I use it.

Often I will need to pull off a metre or so of thread from prewound bobbins as they are overwound - the needle on the Towa moves eratically to start with these bobbins .  I save these threads for basting EPP hexagons!

 

I usually remove the inside cardboard of Superbobs and leave the spring in.

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Mona my "magic number" on my Towa is 150-160.

I tested a bobbin of a brand new machine, straight from the factory and that is what it came out at, so I feel if that is the setting they have sent the machine out with, I'll use it as well.

 

So I run my bobbin tension loose and my top tension loose to.

 

On this brand new machine the screw thread in the centre of the tension dial was almost flush with the outside of the dial.  So I know my top tension will usually be spot on if I keep that inner screw thread in much the same spot.  I adjust the thread path before the tension dial before I play with the upper tension.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks guys for all your interesting input!! I have been out of town , but my take from this post is definitely -do whatever works for you !! ....( Or if it's not broke don't fix it! ) I have been using Linda's recommendation with the cardboard to one side ( outer) and a little sewers aide with nice results. I live in a very humid environment so the thread doesn't dry out like in some areas.

Thanks again!!

Deb

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I use SuperBobs and MagnaGlide classics exclusively and use both with great success. I have a couple of bobbin cases for each type and never have to do anything special. I don't use Sewer's Aid, although I wouldn't hesitate to do so. I've never had to remove any of the cardboard on SuperBobs. That being said, you will occasionally run into SuperBobs that are a little too thick for our machines: it has happened to me and one of my customers in Montana just had one, as well. The symptom is a bobbin that pulls smoothly but is too tight once you insert the bobbin case into the hook assembly.

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Cagey,

I used to use a Towa, and when I did, I set my bobbins to about 180. Now I just set my bobbins by feel and sold my Towa to a customer who loves it! If you figure out your Towa setting by testing a bobbin that is already giving you a good stitch, you should get that same good stitch when you set a different bobbin to the same setting.

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I've had several instances with Superior BottomLine pre-wounds where there is a bump inside the core that keeps the bobbin from spinning easily. I take the blade of my small scissors and shave down the bump. I had about 20 bobbins in a half-gross package with this problem. I also had the issue with the core being too thick probably six or seven times. I've tried to fix those without success. I use those for binding or in my domestic.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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