quilterkp Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 How many of you have the M bobbin? How do they perform tension wise? Also, I see that they have metal and aluminum bobbins. Which of those are best? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mary Beth Posted June 24, 2017 Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Sent you a PM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 I have M bobbins in both my APQS Ult 2 and my Gammill Classic. Since my Ult 2 was originally a machine fitted with an L bobbin, I have the benefit of quilting with it both as an L and an M bobbin machine. I noticed no difference in stitch quality between the systems. I've used three different types of M bobbins in my machines. The bronze colored steel bobbins, the black colored steel bobbins, and silver anodized aluminum bobbins. I really haven't noticed any difference in performance. I would caution that the black ones are probably Chinese made, and I've had quality control issues with them. Some have been out of round. Any such bobbin I find, I throw away, so rather than go through the trouble of sorting out the bad ones (about 10% of those I've bought), I've just stopped buying them. I have about 5 dozen bobbins between the two machines and don't feel like I need any more. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quilterkp Posted June 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Jim, thank you so much for your response! I would prefer a larger bobbin, so that was good to hear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iquiltit Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 23 hours ago, jimerickson said: I have M bobbins in both my APQS Ult 2 and my Gammill Classic. Since my Ult 2 was originally a machine fitted with an L bobbin, I have the benefit of quilting with it both as an L and an M bobbin machine. I noticed no difference in stitch quality between the systems. I've used three different types of M bobbins in my machines. The bronze colored steel bobbins, the black colored steel bobbins, and silver anodized aluminum bobbins. I really haven't noticed any difference in performance. I would caution that the black ones are probably Chinese made, and I've had quality control issues with them. Some have been out of round. Any such bobbin I find, I throw away, so rather than go through the trouble of sorting out the bad ones (about 10% of those I've bought), I've just stopped buying them. I have about 5 dozen bobbins between the two machines and don't feel like I need any more. Jim Jim, Is the M bobbin, easy for the customer to install themselves? I am a very handy person. Thanks Carol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilta93 Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 F 3 hours ago, iquiltit said: I have M bobbins in both my APQS Ult 2 and my Gammill Classic. Since my Ult 2 was originally a machine fitted with an L bobbin, I have the benefit of quilting with it both as an L and an M bobbin machine. I noticed no difference in stitch quality between the systems. Because of what Jim had to say about using both the L and the M bobbin, I got the M bobbin, and I have not regretted it. I have not had any tension issues. I use the aluminum bobbins. I ordered them from eBay. There are different types, so I looked carefully at the pictures and compared them with the ones that came with my machine. Deb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MaryQuiltsTx Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 I have the M bobbin in my Lenni but I use pre-wounds so don't have any experience with the different makes of bobbins. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lemon Tree Tami Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 I opted for the M bobbin on my Freddie since I knew that I'd be concentrating on a panto business. They're the aluminum ones through APQS. I've never had a tension issue with them at all. I wind my own bobbins and then do the bobbin test a la' Jamie Wallen from his YouTube video. I can stitch to the very last inch without problems at all. Love it! Most of my quilts take anywhere from 3 to 4 bobbins depending on the size of quilt and how dense the stitching is. Much nicer than having to change a bobbin 12 times each quilt IMHO. Now, if I were a custom quilter who had many different thread changes then an L bobbin might be a better option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimerickson Posted July 18, 2017 Report Share Posted July 18, 2017 I recently checked my bobbin tension with my TOWA, and was surprised by what I discovered. To give you a little background, I almost exclusively use Superior's Bottom Line thread in my bobbins. I wind my own bobbins on my industrial stand alone bobbin winder. I have made no adjustments to the winder in at least months, but more likely years. As I indicated above I own three types of bobbins, bronze colored steel, black steel, and silver anodized aluminum. I have bobbins of each type wound with left over bits of thread. For self education, I decided to see if there were any difference in TOWA readings. The steel bobbins I checked both bronze and black, registered 30 (same as 300 on newer gauges) on the TOWA. The aluminum ones on the other hand registered 20 (200). I checked bobbin after bobbin and the numbers persisted. I measured the size of each bobbin, diameter, and thickness. They were all the same. Does anyone know why the difference? As a side note, it did seem like the aluminum ones gave a steadier reading. My guess due to the solid sides they have vs the sides with holes in them on the steel ones. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loraquilts Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Wouldn't it be nice if someone invented a way to store an entire cone of thread under the machine and feed it through the existing bobbin mechanism. Then you would never run out of bobbin again. Ahhhhh to dream! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RunningThreads Posted July 19, 2017 Report Share Posted July 19, 2017 Lora It could be done. Do a google search for National two spool and you will see a hundred years ago it was done with domestic machines. I don't know how well the tension would be from the start to the end of the spool. Must be a reason it didn't catch on. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sunny Quilter Posted August 29, 2017 Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 Regarding steel bobbins, does the flat side go inside Bobbon case or side with the holes? also, why is it not recommended to use the steel bobbins in the turbo bobbin winder? Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RunningThreads Posted August 29, 2017 Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 I would think preferably the solid side against the backlash spring. I have two winders that rotate opposite to each other so I've had the holes in and out and both seem to work. My steel bobbins don't have the notch for the drive spring so they don't work on the Turbo Winder. If you have bobbins with the notch they should be fine on the Turbo Winder. Nigel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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