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About Queenanne

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  1. Thanks Jim and Gail, Good thought Gail. I did change to a new bobbin case yesterday, still running warm. Just before the problem started, I WD40'ed the area and oiled again a few times. Also ran the Tut. Knowing it was linty, I blew the area frequently while quilting and cleaned tension discs. I remember the top thread wrapping the bobbin (either Tut or before) and me pulling bits out. I've tried to go in from all angles and can see nothing left over, but perhaps there is still a piece wrapped??? I don't think I could see it without taking the collar off and having to retime. :-( Thanks I appreciate all your ideas! Anne. Something bothering me is that the stitch regulator has not been reliable for a few months. It doesn't hold a regular stitch length (see photo). I've just been too busy to deal with it properly. Maybe I've caused more issues......
  2. Thanks Betsy and Jim, I did put a new needle in, but I did the same for the previous quilt which also ran hot bobbin. Jim, no ruler on this one. I got slightly better tension with another cleanout of discs, smoothing the spring with emery and fiddling the tension, and I managed to finish the loaded quilt with minor back loopies. There does seem to be friction causing heat but can this also be from top tension issues? I've never taken the hook assembly off the rotating shaft and I've shied away from timing. The previous quilt I was determined to use King Tut on top for a thicker thread (first time in years) and I did manage to set good tensions on that one - but that was first time I noted hot bobbin. Back to Glide and reset every thing for #2 but hot fingers still. No skipped stitches, just occasional runs of loopy top thread on the bottom for a few inches, then it settles again. About to do a super check for burrs again and check for loose collar. I'll keep you posted! Anne
  3. Thanks, Cagey! I've used Magnetic bobbins for years and never had a problem. Love them. I've taken off the hook finger and thoroughly cleaned around the bobbin case, cant see anything that would cause a problem. The top thread seems to have more tension on it. I've checked thread path, cleaned tension discs, checked piggies for snags... Can anyone help with this picture!!? I'm frantic halfway through a wedding quilt and, as well as bobbin area running hot after steady quilting, I'm getting irregular stitch length (with stitch regulator on) and the path is 'wobbling' not straight, particularly when pushing away from me. Anne
  4. Can anyone explain why my bobbin would be running HOT? I'm really not quilting that fast. I've had a few thread breaks up top (but that may be because it jumped out of a pigtail). I use magnaglide bobbins, Glide on top, and when I put my hand on the bobbin to check thread, it almost burns my fingers! This happened last quilt as well. I've oiled, cleaned lint, rethreaded.....What is happening?!! Anne Sorry forgot to say I use a 2013 MIllie.
  5. Magna Glide Bobbin tips

    I keep one bobbin case just for Magna glides and use mostly Glide thread on top. Remove spring, black magnet down when open case facing you and the thread will come off clockwise. I also had to tighten the tension screw on this bobbin case about a 1/4 turn more than regular bobs. Hope that helps! Just keep fiddling until you get the thread where you want it in the 'sandwich' and then keep that case aside. Anne
  6. Dreamin

    Two sides- I began by doing some research and diving in with a Millie purchase; I had barely touched a longarm. No rentals in my area and only one machine dealer. So I had some basic loading/doodling under my belt on my own machine before attending an MQX for a concentrated set of lessons. I got more out of the lessons having a beginner understanding. However, by having the opportunity to take in-depth lessons on 3 or 4 different longarms, I was really able to define which ones I liked working on and why, and realized how lucky I was to own an APQS machine!! I can't imagine how I would have felt if I'd bought something else and THEN driven an APQS. It worked for me to buy first and I'm thankful every day that I made this choice. Anne
  7. HI Vicki, Glad it worked out in the end. I would have had a heart attack! Just to clarify, did you wash the whole quilt or just dab the bled area with Synthrapol? Did you soak the area? Do you have to wash Synthrapol out? I'm asking as I'm afraid to use my traditional Japanese indigo dyed fabric with lighter colours in a quilt, and I'm wondering if treating with Synthrapol before would prevent bleeding. Thanks, Anne
  8. Changing the needle bar

    Forgive my ignorance, but can someone explain exactly how to 're-tap'. Where to get supplies (Canada), what size tap, and what size hex screw do I replace the flat head with? My left needle screwhole is stripped and I'm terrified of changing needles in case my right (and only) screw does the same thing! Thanks, Anne
  9. Circlelord Micro-Filler Templates

    Question- Did you work from the front or the back with these boards? How did you stay within the shapes? From the back, it would be hard to 'paint inside the lines'. Fabulous look for a modern quilt. Hope you can enlighten me! Anne
  10. I love the Fantastico colours, especially the variegated on black. Stitches very smoothly for me. Anne
  11. Rulers

    Everyone has their favourites and there are many nice rulers out there. I'm sure there are different 'favourites'! I tried a number of straight rulers at the beginning and my hand always goes to Deloa castle ruler. For a beginner, the ears are so useful and the marked lines are simple and accurate. I have both sizes. The 'little one' has a handy curve on one side. I found I needed a longer straight ruler sometimes and added Janet Lee's Favourite from Gadget Girls. Curved rulers are my next most used, and I use Accents in Design 12 1/2" a lot and Deloa's boomerangs in various sizes. Start with a straight and a curve and spend time getting used to handling it around the foot in all directions and practicing wtih the etched measuring lines before you invest in too much. Happy Stitching! Anne
  12. I can SO identify with this!! I felt so stupid. Here I was - cutting slits in my Glide cones to hold tails until one day the base rolled down....
  13. Broke needle on needle plate

    Update on sad Millie- This morning I discovered that there are 3 locations for fuses (not 2 as listed in the manual)! I had found the 6.3 fuse beside the plug and the forward 2.0 fuse. Today I found the motor fuse 3.15 and voila, it was definitely blown and black. A quick trip to the Source and I have a supply of all fuses now. Installed the 3.15 and Millie is purring again! Thanks to Amy for her reply and photos. I am constantly amazed at how easy these machines are to methodically work through assembling or fixing 'at home'. A true workhorse!! Thank you, APQS family for all your help! (and Barb, I dont know how to post this to the Help forum as you suggested??) Anne
  14. Broke needle on needle plate

    Thanks so much for your replies! Crossing fingers that a fuse fix will do it. Panic set in when my 'Millie therapy' all of a sudden wasn't there! One more challenge..... I'll keep you posted. Anne
  15. Ok, I broke my Millie. Happily oiling after a finish and without thinking, I swung the open needle plate back to catch oil drops while the needle was going. Bad. Needle broke on plate, never went into bobbin area. Put in new needle, lIghts come on but no needle up/down or sewing. Handle buttons do nothing. I can turn the flywheel and needle goes down/bobbin assembly turns. The needle appears to be in the right place (eye just visible at full depth of needle bar). I've checked 2 fuses (by power plug and under the top- Canada). Does a blown fuse look black or any different? These all look normal and clear. I replaced one with the extra in the box, but dont have another to change the second one. Have I jammed the needle bar somehow? I looked at manual for where to find the needlebar screw but haven't played with this yet. Any ideas before I phone for help tomorrow? Thanks, Anne