dbams

Try one drop of sewing machine oil in the bottom of the hook right where the hook and race meet.  That should quiet the noise down when you are warming the machine up before you insert the bobbin case each day.  There is no adjustment.  
 
Nigel

Give the thread cutter mechanism a push with your finger and see if it will finish its stroke.

Ok that is probably timing especially if it the first time you have done it.  The first time I timed my machine I had to do it a few times before I got it correct.  Now I could time a machine in five minutes.  I find the biggest problem with the instructions is when they say the needle should kiss the hook.  Are we kissing an old aunt or a lover?  The answer is somewhere in between.  Sorry not much help. 
 
Nigel

Have you made sure you removed all the broken needle pieces?  Will the machine move without a needle in it?
 

The screw on the leg was too tight for proper function.  Thanks to APQS for the quick help!
 

The adhesive is only going to hold the two separately quilted layers together for a short time; then the only thing holding them together will be the binding.  The added stress on the binding will shorten it's lifespan as well.  You would be better off to make two quilts.  Not sure why you want to do this.

My first question is Why??  
The purpose of quilting the top/batting/backing together is to secure all of the layers together to prevent them them from shifting independently.  
If you use a permanent adhesive, who wants that much glue in the middle of their quilt?  
If you only use something temporary, the end result is a giant pillow cover, not a quilt.  If it's a quilt that will be used & washed, this will make the quilt wear out more quickly.  The middle layers are rubbing freely against each other.  A quilt with 4"-12" between quilting doesn't slide around much when used or washed. 

Have you tried a smaller needle?  I usually use a 3.5/16 with glide thread with no problems.  I think some people go up a size for batiks.  One of my first quilts was a batik jelly roll race quilt.  I didn't change anything when I quilted it because I didn't know that maybe I should.  Maybe try a 4.0/18 and/or a 3.5/16 needle.  
Personally, it doesn't look bad to me.  I find we are our own worst critics and have high expectations.  And then we look at the stitches with our nose 3" from the quilt, sometimes with a magnifying glass.  Most other people look at our quilts and think they're lovely.  
Good luck,  Sue

It looks to me like your bobbin tension isn't tight enough.  This problem seems to be compounded by the variegated thread which makes each stitch look a little different.
I'd try bumping the bobbin tension up just a bit.  If that doesn't work then it probably is simply the color of the top thread and you'll have to live with it.  Good luck.  Jim

This one has a lot more instructions and videos for using the Loricles Circlelord and an introduction on the boards and everything he made. Some of the links still work.
http://circlelordindex.blogspot.com/
Nancy G

What exactly is a "front panel"?  Stitch regulator, machine mechanism, display screen?  We here aren't that familiar with A-1 terminology.  Jim

Check out the Q-Bot.  I think they have kits for some of the Asian machines, and the Pfaff  might just be the same as some other brands.  Good luck.  Jim

I can only assume you meant to add a photo, but to garner some interest, what make, model, and year is your machine? How much use did it get? How can you be contacted? What is the price? Will you pack and ship?Any accessories included? Answer all the standard questions in your posting so people don't have to dig for answers. Make it easy so they don't need to go back and forth with you. If you don't add minimum details, most people won't bother to respond. Good luck with your sale.

Sunny Quilter, The replacement bobbin winder was similar to the existing one, but quite a bit heavier. The new one also has the APQS logo on it that was missing from the initial bobbin winder. So far, so good! Still not crazy about having to guide the thread to make it wind evenly, though, and see no alternative to make that happen. 
I'd previously owned two other brands of longarm, and both brands came with a top quality bobbin winder that wound bobbins perfectly at the push of the on button, without my help. I guess I was spoiled. 
 

Spam reported

Nancy
The pattern is Lightning Strikes and she is showing 2 different coloured quilts with the same pattern.  I found the pattern using Google in about thirty seconds.
Nigel

Contact info, location and pictures would probably help with your sale.

Thanks for letting us know you got it fixed.  It may help someone else in the future.  
 
Nigel

Thank you for your information Nigel. My husband was able to fix it. My hopping foot had loosened and was hitting the needle. I also did not know about the groove on the needle facing forward, so I thank you for that information as well. 
I hope you have a fantastic day 

Assuming you have an APQS machine, have you looked at the main APQS website?  They have a lot of helpful articles to trouble shoot and maintain machines.  They have current manuals available for download.  If you have any older machine, you can contact APQS and request a manual for your machine.  You may need to give them your serial number.  

How can I thank you!!!  I am inexperienced and have inherited this machine - have never had this problem before but it’s now working!!  Thank you sooooo much!

Rotate the machine with the hand wheel and see what the needle is hitting.  It is possible to rotate the needle plate 180 degrees and install the screws.  If you did that the needle and the hole in the plate won’t line up.  So is the needle installed as high as it will go with the groove facing forward?  It was about six years in before I installed a needle incorrectly.
 
Nigel

Yes, you can easily get 2 sets of star pieces out of a FQ.  There's enough to get at least 3. 
If you had a F8 that was at least 21" (usable fabric, excluding the selvage) you could squeeze out 2 blocks from the F8.  You can see in the layout for the first cutting (pink), there's a lot of fabric you don't use.
3.375   3.375  3.375  3.375   3.75   3.75 = 21" across
3.75  3.75  3.375   3.375  3.375  3.375 = 21" across
Underlined amounts would give you pieces for a 2nd block.  Those 2 rows together are 7 1/8" vertically.  
I find it helpful to just draw it out on scratch paper to see the different arrangements for cutting.  They don't have to be to scale - just draw boxes and label the dimensions.  Then add them up across and down and see what you need.  You could use sticky notes too (label dimensions) - that would make it easier to move them around.  

Thank you!
That makes more sense. So, if I want to do two of the blocks in the same color, I could use one fat quarter and get two out of that? Ten FQ will yield 20 blocks.
Can I tell you that I have been staring at these 4 pages for two days :o). 
I appreciate the help!

You could use fat quarters if you’re not finding fat eighths. You could have more than one block with the same fabric (if you buy 10 FQ)  Or you’ll just have leftovers to add to your stash (buy 20 FQ).
This pattern does seem confusing as far as what they call the fabrics.
As I read this:
FQ = color B
Accent = color A
White = background 
It looks to me like the center square in each block is the white/background fabric.  It looks like those are the 4” cut pieces because everything else is an even quantity. 
If you wanted to make the center squares from a different fabric than the white/background, you certainly could.  If you’re doing blues and greens as your stars, you should have enough fabric (even using F8) to cut a 4” block. So if you had a blue star, you could do a green center square and vice versa. 
Just a thought… check out Fat Quarter Shop for free patterns. I find their patterns are very well written for beginners. 
Good luck and reply if you need more help!
Sue