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Hydraulic lift


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I just joined the forum because I just completed my order for a brand new 2013 Millie.  They said I could expect it in about 2-3 weeks.  I have never owned a long arm before but I have been researching for about a year.  I have read some discussions where the hydraulic lift was discussed and a few users felt the hydraulic lift was an important addition to order.  I did not order it on my 12 ft. table because I thought that once the height was set and since I would be the only user, I wouldn't need to adjust the height on a regular basis.  I am 5'10 and I thought I would just set the table to be comfortable for my height.  Am I missing something about that?  What don't I know about needing to adjust the table frequently??? 

Thank you so much for all that I have read on this forum.  It has been so helpful to me already and I don't even have my machine yet!

Kathy

 

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Hi Kathy,

 

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your upcoming Millie.  I don't have the lift and I am the only one using my machine but there are times when I have been quilting for a while when I wish I could change the height of the table.  If you are going to be quilting for hours at a time it helps to be able to change the height of the table when your back begins to feel tired.  The lift can be added at a later date, it does not need to be ordered when you first get your Millie. You can give your machine a try and see if you feel a need for a lift.  Have fun with your machine when she arrives.

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Hi Kathy, congratulations on the upcoming arrival!! Get ready for a lot of fun-- if you stick with this forum you will learn so much.

I am certainly not an expert, but here is my experience.....

I quilted on my machine a long time ( about 3 years, but I was not reading this forum) before I realized it was really too low. I raised it about 1-1/2" and the difference on my back was amazing! After reading posts from those who have the lift feature on their machines, I wish I had this!!

I still wish I could adjust depending on what I am doing-- close up, edge2edge, SID, and I imagine panto work needs its own height ( don't do pantos).

I guess you can tell- my recommendation is get the hydraulic lift!

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hi kathy...since you will be the only user, you may not need a lift. to change your position...you can always get a saddle stool. there are aftermarket lifts that several ladies have purchased that are cheaper and work just as well. do your research and after quilting for a spell, you can always add a lift if you feel you need/want it. 

 

i have hydraulic lifts on my machines...but then I have 7 kids who use the machines at different times. 

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Hi Kathy - Congrats on the new machine.  I am a newbie too - got mine the beginning of December and learning lots - there just isn't enough hours in the day!  This forum has been wonderful, anytime I have a problem I just start searching and always find an answer!  

 

I did not get the lift when I bought my machine and it is already on my wish list!  I am fine working from the front but when I work on pantos from the back the table isn't high enough.  I should take more breaks but I usually wait until I can hardly move to stop.  If you have the option I don't think you would regret it!

 

Happy Quilting

 

Wendy

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Kathy welcome to the forum and congratulations on your new machine.  I have hydraulic lifts on my machine.  I am 5' 8" and find them invaluable.  I do a lot of custom work.  Normally I'm sitting on my saddle stool and I raise and lower my machine as need to to reach better to the back of the frame.  When I'm doing pantos, I also sit on my saddle stool, but lower my table almost all the way.  I got after market lifts and I'm so glad I made the investment.  If you have a handy hubby he can put them on for you with a few extra additions.  My BIL did mine for me.     

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Thanks for all of the comments. Since this such a major purchase I thought I had thought through everything I was going to need/want for the machine but this has certainly given me something else to think about. I didn't know the height of the table would need to be adjusted for different tasks. How do I research the after market lifts? Are they just called hydraulic lifts for long arms? I would like to compare them with the ones I could order from APQS. My husband is indeed very handy and has been learning everything about these machines right along with me. Wow, so much to learn, but what a fun journey!

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I purchased mine from Suspa.com and I know I ordered online but I can't find the link online now.  I got mine in 2010.  I know that there was a discussion not too long ago, I'd say last year of somebody else that purchased this as well but for some reason I can't find the thread when I do a search.    There is a phone number you can call,(616).241.4200,I believe the one I got was MLS 00004E 16" stroke 750 lb lift.  It was about $850 

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Congratulations on your Millie. I have a lift and would n't be without it. I got only after lots of lower back pain and going to PT for months. Once I got my machine and was able to change the height of the machine my back is amazing.  The best addition I have purchased! :)

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Thank you Heidi. I will be researching this and have my husband look at it also. What machine do you have and size table? How did you know to get 16"stroke750lb lift. Whatever that means.

Linda S. was the one that told me about this lift.  She had the 12" stroke (that is high much it can raise the table).  I'm taller so I figured the higher it could go the better  :D .  It will raise up to 750 lbs.  

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Hi Kathy  :)   I have hydraulics and wouldn't want to be without them.  I use my table for many things, not just with the longarm - things like pressing / pinning / layout for piecing / packing up quilts for shipping / drawing ........ you name it, anything that needs a big surface goes on there!  I put the table at the max height for all this other stuff, then lower it when I'm quilting.  I also quilt with it at different heights if I'm working from the back or front of the machine, and take it back up to max height when I have to un-pick anything.  So - for me - hydraulics are a MUST-have ........  :D

While we're talking about additions etc - one thing I could really have done without is the bobbin thread cutter !  Never use the thing.  If anyone feels this is actually something else they would never be without - I'd love to hear about what I'm missing doing  ;)  I can't take it off either, because I have the hartley expander base which fits round it.  Maybe this should be an optional extra with the millie instead of standard?  - Ani

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Since I have never had a long arm before and my machine isn't here yet, I can't visualize the bobbin thread cutter. How do you cut the bobbin thread then if you don't use the cutter?? And do you not use it because it is awkward to get to?? Would it make a difference if the button for the cutter were more accessible?

Thank you all for your input. I have learned so much these past few days!

I have heard I am going to need the hartly expander base. Where do you get them? Order them online? - Kathy

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Kathy...you van cut the bobbin thread a couple of different ways. Either use the onboard bobbin cutter...or pull the bottom thread to the top by using the needle up/down button..then doing a couple of small stitches...then physically cut the thread.

As far as a ruler base...you can either buy the hartley base or one by donita reeves called the rulermate. the latter one screws onto the machine while the hartley simply slips on/off.

I suggest you decide what type of quilting you plan to do before investing in a ruler base. There are so many tools/attachments for sale. Dont jump in too quick to buy them all.

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Kathy,

 

You can order the Hartley expander base directly from APQS. You can add it right to your machine order so that it ships with your machine. If you're getting a Millie, the cost is $130. We are in the process of getting our parts available in online store format, but that's still being created by our web team. In the meantime, just call Heidi at 800-426-7233 if you'd like to add it to your machine order.

 

The bobbin thread cutter trims your thread and leaves a tail behind on the back of the quilt. Some quilters then tug on the top thread to "pop" this tail to the surface to trim it or bury it with a needle and quilter's knot. Some do not use it simply because they don't want to deal with that extra step. The button is very conveniently located; it has more to do with quilter's preference. :)

 

I am one of those who actually has a bobbin thread cutter, but I don't use it. I choose to begin and end my stitching with teeny, tiny stitches to secure the beginning and ending threads. (Too lazy to do the "knot and bury" thing.:)) To bring up my bobbin thread quickly and not leave a tail on the back of the quilt, here's what I do:

 

1.  Secure your ending threads with teeny tiny stitches (you can do this by using your needle up/down feature to strategically place the stitches close together or by switching the machine machine to manual mode for a brief moment and moving it slowly to make close stitches) 

 

2.  After the locking stitches are complete, place 5-7 stitches in the SAME hole (do NOT move the machine.) This makes the bobbin thread wrap around the top thread on the underside of your quilt, forming a knot.

 

3. Move the machine away from the hole without cutting your thread so that you can grab hold of the top thread. Now "tug" on the top thread near the hole. You'll "pop" that knot up to the surface of the quilt.

 

4. Trim the threads BELOW the knot you pulled up. This cuts the bobbin thread flush with the back of the quilt, leaving no knot and no thread tail behind.

 

Here's another popular way to bring up the bobbin thread. (It works just fine, it just isn't "fast" enough for my lazy nature.:))

 

1. Secure your ending threads with the tiny stitches as described earlier. (Remember, if you have a stitch regulator engaged, your stitches will be the same length all the way up to your stopping point. They will not be close enough together to secure the ends UNLESS you leave long thread tails behind and later bury them the way you would when hand quilting.)

 

2. When you've taken your last securing stitch, move the machine away about 12 inches but do  not cut your top thread. Grasp the top thread with one hand, and then move back to the exact spot where you ended.

 

3. Use the needle up/down button to take one more complete stitch at that same location, still holding on to the top thread loop.

 

4. Now move the machine away again, and pull on the top thread. This will bring up a loop of bobbin thread along with it. Now you can trim the threads coming out of the hole right next to the quilt. This also trims the bobbin thread flush with the back of the quilt.

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Dawn, the 2nd technique you described is actually the way I cut my bobbin thread now.  I have a Pfaff Grand Quilter now that I do all my free motion quilting on.  I saw that technique on a Fons and Porter show once and have used it ever since.  I also sometimes leave the long tail and bury the thread with a needle. To not do that anymore sounds good to me! 

Thanks for the advice to stay calm and not buy everything at once.  I am a tool junkie so my tendency is to start buying everything I even THINK I may need.  You are right, I have no idea what I will end up doing. 

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