Jess

Wrap around Corners & Borders info

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I have a few screen shots that I made that describe how I've been able to set up wrap around borders and corners using Quilt Path. The sample uses a border and corner from one of the grouping of patterns from One Song Needle Arts that we carry on our website, but I've tried with a few different border & corner combinations and it works the same way with some modification to the block/border sizes to accommodate different sized patterns. The attachments  are below but may be out of order. 

 

Here's more info taken from an email that I used to send instructions. This was written before I discovered being able to merge some of the blocks in the Select & Sew section where the quilt layout is. 

I used the Design & Create portion of the software to layout a template of the quilt borders ( a couple of rectangles with the offset rectangles that represented how far away from the edge and the interior of the quilt that I wanted to be) then put in 1 corner and scaled it visually to the size that I figured would be close to what I needed.  Copied and rotated the corner and placed it in the upper right, merging & swapping layers as needed in order to add the 2nd pattern and making it work independently, not as a mirror.  I literally saved the corner at the size I needed, then opened/imported it into the same Design & Create page as the first. This way they worked independent of each other.   Then I pulled in the border segment and measured the distance between the start & end points, dividing the approximate space that I had left by the length btw the start & end point.  This gave me a repeat that was close if not exactly the size that I needed to fit between the corners I had on the screen already.  So I saved that repeat as a new pattern file, naming it appropriately with “top repeat” in the name.  Now I brought in as many as I needed to fit the span.  I connected all of these repeats and saved the entire top border & corners as 1 file.   It’s important that I saved the single “adjusted top repeat” because I will use it as something close to start with when I layout the sides. I then took that single repeat and turned it so that it would run down the sides.  I also made a copy of the top bnc section and rotated it so that it could be placed at the bottom of the quilt.  This gave me the distance that I needed between the top & bottom border sections.  I did a little math to see how many repeats that I sort of should need by dividing the distance between top and bottom sections where the corners endpoints are located.  

 

I had discovered that each box in the grid in the Design & Create section represents an inch, and that a pattern will come in to the sewing portion of the program at the same scale if given enough room to do so.  So I worked on this premise for my estimates on how many side repeats I would need.  I brought in the adjusted repeat from the top, then rotated it to start fitting that side. I squished the repeat a bit to fit.  If the overage of repeats is less than ½ of a single repeat I tend to squish the repeats, and if they are more than ½ over then I tend to take out 1 repeat and then stretch the remaining repeats to fit.

 

I didn’t want to have to turn the quilt, so I left the side repeats as individuals and adjusted the size so that they fit perfectly.  Then I saved 1 individual side repeat that had been adjusted as such “side repeat”.  I actually labeled the single side and single top repeats as the “master repeats” because I will keep a copy of them in their master state even if I make further adjustments as I layout and definitely as I would physically quilt.  This is because you want to have a “master” that you can go back to instead of trying to recreate a master from tweaked repeats that you might need to actually accommodate a quilt, since not all the sides may be the same as the measurement used for laying out the bnc patterns. (Reminder that "master files"  refers to files that I sent to a customer to make sure that it would work with the pattern that She was using.)   It’s important to delete the rectangle “guides” before saving or you’ll get them saved as part of the pattern since QP doesn’t have the ability to give you pull down guides from a floating ruler feature, which would be really helpful in all of this.

 

So once I saved everything I needed as far as parts in the GPF format at “true size”. I brought them into the Select & Sew section.  I then entered the outside dimension of the quilt and I gave myself blocks that would let me get close to the right measurement for the borders.  I would recommend ending up with a block size that is slightly smaller than the actual border depth, if you can’t get everything to divide out perfectly. In this case the quilt had 6” borders  with an outside quilt measurement of 56 w x 52 ht, so the closest that I could for an evenly divisible number of blocks was to go with 10 & 9 block respectively because I felt that it’s more important to preserve the outside dimensions of the quilt, rather than block size. This landed me with block sizes that were just under 6”.  This told me that as long as I stayed inside those blocks with the pattern that it shouldn’t  quilt into the interior of the quilt and still sort of preserve my buffer zone that I created in Design & Create.  With the outside measurement of the quilt preserved and with a layout grid showing I selected the top/bottom border and corner pattern . It came in fitting into the block, of course, but  because I had correct outside quilt dimensions on the grid I was able to enlarge that pattern so that it both fit

The width with the border section still fitting within the top “row”, corners wrapping down into the first and last columns.

Now I selected a side block and pulled in the side pattern. Since it was “pre-adjusted” you can bring the number of them that you need and do the majority of the rescaling at the same time. This allows for the pattern repeats to be the same and less adjustment needed later.  I used the zoom feature to nudge the first side repeat so that the end of the side repeat touches the end of the top bnc segment, ends touching, or as close as possible. Then I did the same with each of the other repeats needed to go down the side.  Whenever I made a further adjustment of size I did it to all of the repeats, knowing that they should fit perfectly because they did in Design & Create.  Movements I did individually. I moved them while zoomed in. I just had to make sure that I remembered which blocks the repeats were originally placed into because if I had more than one block selected for zoom then any movement or sizing affected all the patterns that were in zoom.  (If I'd know about the merge block I'd have used it so that I could zoom into 1 block space).

 

Once I had all of one side completely fitted to the space. I took the repeat and copied it to the other side.  Knowing that I needed to copy to the other side is one of the reasons that any sizing that I did on the side repeat was done on all of them at the same time.  This way I  knew that if one size fit, then they all would fit on the other side border.  I rotated the pieces so that they continued around on the right hand side.  Then I save the entire border as a “quilt” layout (QLT format).

 

I know that there might be some minor adjustments as it’s actually stitched out to accommodate any variation in piecing, but this was a way to get the entire border and corners represented at true size, so that any adjustment would be minor and could be sort of done on the fly. 

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Jessica Schick

Digi-Tech Designs, llc

www.digitechpatterns.com ~Digital, Paper, & Embroidery Quilting patterns

~APQS, Quilt Path, & Intelliquilter Sales, Service, & Education

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Wonderful lesson Jessica.  I was wondering if you could post the pictures in a jpg format instead of thumbnails so we can print them out without them getting blurry and distorted with the increase of size.  Thanks so much again.


Terry Forlin

 

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If you would like them in jpg instead of png, you just need to change the format to jpg, using the rename feature on your computer. Although, png is usually a higher quality image.  I'll see what I can do about putting the images into a PDF file and uploading that instead, as that's the only way to guarantee that the images will remain at the original size and not reduced to save bandwidth when loading to the forum. 


Jessica Schick

Digi-Tech Designs, llc

www.digitechpatterns.com ~Digital, Paper, & Embroidery Quilting patterns

~APQS, Quilt Path, & Intelliquilter Sales, Service, & Education

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