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  1. Yesterday
  2. For Sale - a 2008 Millenium on a 10' Bliss table. In addition, the sale item includes the following: Mushroom Handles for Directional Locks, Stitch Regulator, Needle Up/Down, Thread Cutter and Speed Regulator Laser Stylus LED Light with Black light Turbo Bobbin Winder Quilt Glide Automatic Fabric Advance Batting Bar Manual Shipping box for Machine Head
  3. For Sale - a 2010 Millenium on a 12' Bliss table. In addition, the sale item includes the following: Mushroom Handles for Directional Locks, Stitch Regulator, Needle Up/Down, Thread Cutter and Speed Regulator Laser Stylus LED Light with Black light Turbo Bobbin Winder Quilt Glide Automatic Fabric Advance Batting Bar Manual Shipping box for Machine Head
  4. Did you connect the USB receiver to the rear side of your tablet mount? There was some talk of not all clickers being compatible years ago. If I remember correctly only one button on the clicker will work with the IQ.
  5. The presentation clicker does not seem to know when I click on the button in IQ
  6. How do you connect it to IQ? i have not been able to make mine work.
  7. Last week
  8. Have any of you used the longarm for piecing? Several quilters featured on The Quilt Show (hosted by Alex Anderson & Ricky Tims) have mentioned they do their piecing and — most interesting to me — collage work on the longarm. I still consider myself a new user; I have quilted a few quilts on my Lenni, but am intrigued by the idea of using it for creating the top, as opposed to only using it for the final quilting. I’m not quite sure how to proceed. I guess just attach the background fabric to a front and back roller and begin? Are there special considerations to be aware of since there aren’t 3 layers - such as tension, etc. If you’ve done piecing and/or collage on the longarm, would you please share any tips or suggestions,? Thanks, Susie
  9. Dave, Why not remove the shelves and install something like this with either a wood or aluminum rod so you can easily unroll the batting from the roll as needed. You could also install this upside down, and put a bolt with a wing nut through the outer hole to hold the rod. I store my batting on the roll placed on the floor, with no issues. Best of luck to you coming up with a solution.
  10. LeAnne, Just to let you know K. Szymaszek last visited May 2016. You can see that if by hovering over the poster's name. Hopefully someone can help you find the pattern.
  11. I haven’t posted in quite a while but we just moved to the Tucson area and my storage situation is different. I have always stored my big rolls of batting standing on end. Here it would be better if I could store them on their sides on big garage shelves. However it seems like a really bad idea as one side would get compressed. Has anyone ever successfully done this or should I just scrap the idea? Thanks Dave
  12. I have been searching for this pattern. Do you still have? Any chance you know where I could find it or be willing to share?
  13. The laser light on the panto side flickers and is very easily turned off. I gently tap and rotate the cable to get it to come back on. Usually stays on while running the machine, but now I'm having trouble with that. Has the light failed and I should replace it? Thanks in advance,
  14. If you go to Facebook and search for the "We Love APQS" group, there's a Millie/Freddie manual in the Files Section.
  15. Is there a place to download or order a manual? Previous owner never supplied hers (she was going to "find it" but that never seems to have happened)
  16. Hi there! I have a janome MC6600P price is negotiable. I’m asking $1,000 and have included pictures for you to look at.
  17. I took the other approach. I retrofitted my Ult 2 with an M bobbin system. I use Bottom Line almost exclusively, in my bobbins. I get about 200 to 210 yds on bobbins I wind myself. Jim
  18. Linda give good advice on the options of winding your own bobbins vs the pre wound bobbins. I exclusively use the pre wound as I found them to last longer than what I could wind myself. Also I get better stitch quality with the pre wounds. The only time I have ever had a problem is when I use a heavy weight top thread and the thinner pre wounds don't play well together. I typically do not match my thread colors, so this allows me more freedom too.
  19. I have had this problem happen and I have an older wooden table with my ULT11 machine. The Lenni doesn't have a large throat area and so you will need to move your laser light when beginning a quilt to make up for the difference of this problem. You might move it up .... you need to fiddle a bit to find the best spot when taking into consideration that your quilt is longer and you might possibly run into this problem when you get to the end of your quilt. I have also had to move my laser light when running into this problem towards the end of my quilting... it is doable but takes alot of adjustments, checking and re checking where the pattern will be, not fun. I mostly run into this type of problem when using a fleece or flannel backing that is bulky and take sup extra space. So, I have to plan accordingly for that. You stated you used a 10" pattern, you should have been able to complete your quilting without this happening.. but with the Lenni's small throat space, you just might need to consider smaller patterns for longer quilts.
  20. Two options for you---spend the $$ to convert to the M size bobbin. Or wind your own (or purchase pre-wound bobbins) using thinner thread. There is no rule that the thread weight, or even color, has to match top and bobbin. BottomLine (Superior) thread is poly and 60 weight---and designed to be used as bobbin thread using other weights of thread as top thread. The pre-wounds hold 119 yards of thread. If you wind your own, probably 90-100 yards will load, depending on the tension and how full they are wound. With a 3000 yard cone of BL, you can wind 30 bobbins at 100 yards each. The cost for a cone is wholesale $7.90 and retail $14.49. If you do the math you'll find out how much a bobbin will cost in just materials. If you can figure out how many yards you load when winding say a 40 weight thread to match what you're using as top thread, then figure the math using the cost per spool/cone, you can see if the thinner thread bobbins are more economical. I know they will last much longer. I do custom quilting almost exclusively and find a bobbin of BL will last me close to an hour of medium-speed stitching. If you opt to try thinner thread, ask opinions here for what colors blend the best and which neutrals are good to start out with.
  21. Does anyone have any suggestions because, I have a Lenni with an L bobbin, which runs out of thread quickly. I prefer to wind my own bobbins because i can match my top and bottom threads and to save money. But I don't even make two rows of a panto before i run out of thread. I have gone to inserting a new bobbin with each new panto row and end up with a lot of partial filled bobbins. I have even talked to my dealer about changing to an M bobbin. ????????
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