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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/07/2013 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I spent the day at the quilt show with my dad and step-mom. He was very pleased with the display of our family quilts. All 3 of us quilt and sometimes do projects together. I quilt some of their tops and they try to pay me for my quilting. I just tell him it is pay back for some teenage incident! He was impressed with the size of the show. They live 2 hours away and I have never gotten them to come. He is 84 and about out walked me! The Winnie the Pooh quilt was the only quilt made by my mom before she was killed by a drunk driver. Today my dad turned to me and said "How could we ever have imagined that we would end up quilting together instead of you and your mom." One of those days I will remember forever.
  2. 2 points

    Des Moines Quilt Show

    My wonderful husband and I just got home from attending the Des Moines Quilt Show. All I can say is WOW. We went to "shop" for a long arm machine and after trying out every machine there and talking to all the sales people, we left after ordering......a new LUCEY! I am soooo excited. First and foremost, thank you Dawn for putting up with us most of the day. After trying out the the Lucey, we left and went to other booths. We then came back and tried the Lucey again. Left again and tried out more machines. We came back a THIRD time, tried out the machine again, talked to Dawn AGAIN, and we were sold. We (ha -- my husband, Ron) now has to finish the basement studio for Lucey's new home. We talked about plans, training, ideas, etc. all the way home (about 4 hours away). I'm hoping to learn so much from the forum and groups. I will need all the help I can get. Delores Herren Quincy, IL
  3. 2 points

    Rating an iron

    I just went to the website for the Vermont Country Store and looked up their dry iron. It really brought a smile to my face. It looks like the iron my grandma had 40 years ago. For $30.00 I am going to try it. If nothing else, every time I use it, I will think of grandma and smile. For that, it will be worth $30. Thanks.... Delores in Illinois
  4. 1 point

    First large quilt on George

    This one is for us. Hubby did not want me over quilting it as it is for our bed and his lap quilt I quilted all over. Lessons learned, Batting has a wrong side to it, I found it. Like the filtec Mag bobbins a lot. There are more ways to do feathers than I thought possible. George's table not slippery enough even with slider, trying silicon next time. Decided if I was going to try feathers I wanted to see them so used Gold thread Magnifico. Thanks to Myrna for just do it and designs in Star points, Darlene for design in inner borders, and Kimmy Brunner Twirly whirly feathers, first try at them.
  5. 1 point

    DWR FInished

    Just finished the DWR quilt Linda R helped me with the quilting design. I love how it turned out. It is 90 by 100 inches! 001 by delld1964, on Flickr There are more pictures on Flickr Thanks for looking!
  6. 1 point

    How do you deal with this?

    I am a newbie when it comes to the long arm. I just did my third quilt today. My question is this....when using a panto and you get to the end of your quilt and you don't have room for the whole pattern, how do you mark off the paper panto so you know where to stop stitching? I am going to try and post a picture to show you what I did today, but I am sure there is a better way.
  7. 1 point

    Need help with this

    In that case, I would go with the black to square it out. Most show booths are black and that can make the color pop out without really showing the black. If you choose not to square it out, you could also do a knife edge finish where you fold in the edges of the top and the backing and hand stitching them closed. (have the backing folded over the batting so there are not any fibers escaping.
  8. 1 point
    I've had some inquiries from several of you wanting to know about the product I've been taking. I had quite a large supply of a product called "Phytopath" and am nearing the end of it. Just went to reorder, and it's no longer available. The company used to have MANY products, but from what I can see, they are now only offering 2. VERY disappointing, as the Phytopath replenished the serotonin in the brain that is depleted in FM patients and accounts for the brain fog, sleep disorders etc. A new search begins!
  9. 1 point
    I was white gloving a display called The Silk Road. Who appeared but Claudia with a big smile on her face! AQS featured a display of her quilts from her first quilt to her last show stoppers. It was very snip ring to see where she started and where she has taken her artistry. She was so nice talking to all of us quilters. And now her first hand quilted quilt.
  10. 1 point
    On Pins and Needles

    Rating an iron

    I'm a two iron houehold...one in my sewing room and one for my husbands ironing board. Yes, poor guy has to do his own ironing. I've bought countless irons, I'm guessing that every year I'm replacing one of them, have had everything from the top of the line Rowentas to the 19.95 Black and Decker from Walmart. Some last longer than others but none of them last for any reasonable amount of time. At this point I only look for one without the auto shut off, they're usually cheap and they work well for as long as they work, then I buy a new one. I've also had the gravity feed irons with the tank that hangs from the ceiling. I love these and the steam they generate but they aren't a sure thing either. While they last longer they still require occasional parts, mine always need thermostats and those are expensive too. I worked for 30 years at Macy's in the tailor shop and we had industrial irons that were hooked up to a boiler. While the boiler always worked, those irons required the maintanance guy constantly to keep them working. He explained to me one time that the things irons have to do...heat up, maintain temperature and shoot steam....are so hard on them they just wear themselves out. Buy cheap and replace!
  11. 1 point
    Sue E.

    Rating an iron

    I had an Oliso iron that didn't even last 1 year. I have a Reliable which I don't like because it shuts itself off and takes forever to get hot again. Now it doesn't even stay hot when I'm using it! I have owned 2 of the Continental dry irons that the Vermont Country Store sells (I got mine through Amazon for about $23 each). I love that iron but they don't last 1 year before they give up. My most recent one died yesterday! I was told that none of these irons are made to be left on for long periods of time like we do when we are piecing. One of my students has purchased a cheap Black & Decker which I have used and like. It does not have an auto shut off but I haven't been able to find one like it yet. I'm still looking. My next iron will be a cheap - inexpensive - one and if I can find one with no holes in the sole plate that would be wonderful because I don't use steam.
  12. 1 point

    Des Moines Quilt Show

    Just a tip, put in twice as many outlets as you tjhink you want. You will never have enough or in the right place. Shirley
  13. 1 point

    Rating an iron

    I had an oliso and it didn't make me happy. I've never tried a reliable. I've found the best iron for me is the dry iron that is available thru the Vermont country store. It gets nice and hot. No auto shut off. No holes in the sole plate. Cheap enough that I don't mind replacing it every year or so when it wears out.. But that's just me.
  14. 1 point

    George is comming

    I bought a George instead of a stand-up longarm because I was already a proficient quilter on my domestic machine & didn't want to re-learn how to machine quilt...moving the machine over the fabric is a very different skill than moving the fabric under the needle. As opposed to my domestic machines, the size of the throat on George means significantly less wrestling with the quilt sandwich. For me, that has translated into less pain in my back, shoulders & hands. You should know that some people who quilt on the stand-up longarm machines do so sitting down on a stool. Honestly, if you quilt for very long periods of time as I do, there is some unavoidable wear & tear on the body no matter what machine you use. Choose what is best for your budget, your space, and the kind of quilting you want to do. Then set up your machine as ergonomically as you can...height of machine & table, comfort of chair or stool, forgiving flooring, sufficient lighting...all of these can help make your quilting a more comfortable experience. If you are only quilting for yourself, George is a terrific option. If you plan to go into business quilting for others, the stand-up machines with frames are a better choice. If you have any additional questions about George specifically, please post them here. We are happy to provide the information for you. Nancy in Tucson (George rep)
  15. 1 point

    Huge fabric purchase

    Ok I feel better now. They are going to call me when they are tired of trying to get rid of the rest. So I may get more. I bought flannel, batiks, backing. Just an assortment. I really want the rest of the batiks, but I bought what I really liked. Shirley
  16. 1 point

    Used Intellistitch

    Marti: The Intellistitch is NOT something that you can move from machine to machine. They are made for specific machine models. The entire machine is rewired. If the machine does not have a Groschopp 8014 motor (my Ult2 did not, while my Gammill Classic did). they replace the motor with one. Sensors are put on the main shaft of the machine so the software can reference the stitching, and all new switches, sometimes in different places, are installed. If you were to remove all the necessary hardware (a difficult job to say the least), it would only fit the same model machine it came off. These are real stitch regulators, not the kind of stuff some of the DSM conversions tout as stitch regulators. They are not add ons. Think of the job as being similar to removing the stitch regulation system from a Millie, and putting it on a Gammill. If you had an Intellistitch regulated machine, to use it, in a different longarm system, you'd have to switch the entire head, and then modify the encoder mounts and cables to fit the new table. The only way you can have your machine feature an Intellistitch stitch regulator, is to have one of Kasa's technicians install it for you. It is NOT a do it yourself job. The cost to have one of their installers come to your home and put the system on your machine, is $3200, or at least that's what it was when I had mine done. It's $2950 for the system and $250 for travel. The system cannot be removed from another machine without rendering that machine useless. I hope this helps clear up some of the questions you have about the Intellistitch stitch regulation system. As I said earlier, I have one on both of my machines, and really like them. They allowed me to continue using perfectly good unregulated machines but with the added benefit of being stitch regulated. If you don't have the money now, save for it. Nolting use them as their factory stitch regulators, as did several other manufacturers before they developed their own regulation system. They are as good a regulation system as almost anything that is offered by any of the longarm manufacturers. Jim
  17. 1 point

    Pulling my hair out....frustrated...HELP!

    Dawn, I have never had this problem (too new at this and just getting all set up!) but as a guy who restores old cars as a hobby and has to figure things out a bit I wanted to say just how fantastic APQS is in providing knowledge and service help. I am fairly mechanically oriented and decent with my hands (started life as a Neurosurgeon, after a few years became an Anesthesiologist as it was wayyyyy more family friendly!) This is the perfect example of how wonderful you folks are and why I chose an APQS over another brand of machine! Quality folks, quality product, quality service. THANK YOU!
  18. 1 point
    Laura, If the stitches are skipping still at this point, check these things first: 1. Check for hook shaft collar play before you do anything else. Over time the bushing behind the hook shaft collar wears down enough to create just enough "in and out" play behind that collar. That, in turn, allows the entire hook assembly to slightly move forward and backward as it rotates and this can cause skipped stitches. Use this attached document to check: Hook Shaft Collar adjust.pdf 2. Next, if you're still skipping, check the needle depth once more. You should see the entire needle eye and a smidge of silver above the eye only. If that looks good, move on to step 3: 3. Mark a new needle so you can really see the hook rotation. Use a thin point sharpie marker and put a mark right in the middle of the scarf (divide it in half from top to bottom). Then add another mark below that, just at the bottom of the scarf where the needle starts to bend back again. Now rotate the fly wheel and check the clearance of the hook behind the needle again, and make sure the tip passes between your marks. If it's hard to see, put a white piece of paper on the opposite side of the needle so you can see better. It will act like a backdrop and help illuminate the area better. If the needle passes at the top mark or higher, then the hook's getting to the needle too soon. With a little luck you won't need to start by removing the hook again. Loosen the screws on the hook assembly, HOLD the fly wheel so the needle doesn't move, and then grab the back of the hook where the screws are and turn the hook clockwise (which will make the point get there a little later.) If the needle passes low on the scarf, too near the bottom mark or below it, then the hook point is getting to the needle too late. Hold the fly wheel again, but in this case loosen the screws and turn the hook assembly counter-clockwise so the point gets there quicker. When you have the rotation just right (passing between the two marks), then tighten the only screw that you can see on the hook assembly only a little, little bit. You only want it to hold on enough so that you can now adjust how close the hook is to the needle. 4. Now to the part that is most likely still causing your trouble....if you're still getting skipped stitches, the hook can't find the loop of thread created behind the needle because the hook's too far away from the needle. Put that piece of paper on the opposite side of the needle where you're looking again so you can really see if there is space between the the hook and the needle. Get a magnifying glass too. Move the fly wheel back and forth ever so slightly so the hook passes by, and see if the hook pushes the needle out of the way. It absolutely must not only touch the needle but it must also bump it. When you start moving the machine the needle then starts moving too, and it always moves in the opposite direction than what you're quilting. So it will skip stitches more moving to the left or pushing the machine away from you, when the needle bends to the right (and the hook's not there yet) or when the needle bends toward you when you push the machine away (increasing the gap.) With that one screw holding the hook in place so you don't lose the rotation, now put a screwdriver between the back of the hook and the front of the collar and twist its handle to nudge the hook more toward the needle to you get deflection. (If you overshoot and the hook really slaps the needle, use the handle of the screwdriver to tap the hook back again.) Don't get frustrated if this step takes several attempts to get deflection without a hard slap...it can take us a long time at the factory to get it just right too! When you think it's just right, then rotate the hook to the next screw and tighten that one just a bit. Rotate the hook around to the needle and check the deflection AND the rotation to see that they haven't changed. If they have, you'll need to readjust again. (It's possible that the screws may want to slide back into their old holes in the shaft. If they do, you're better off removing the hook, smoothing the shaft and starting again.) If the deflection and rotation haven't changed, go to the next screw and tighten it a little bit, too. Then check rotation and clearance AGAIN. Keep going round and round, tightening each screw and checking. If everything continues to stay aligned and the screws are pretty tight, then it's time to give them your muscle. Really tighten the two screws on the round part of the hook with muscle, but take care with the third screw that's on a flat spot on the hook, since that screw head could snap off. 5. Finally, re-check the hook retaining finger's depth to make sure it's only 1/3 of the way into the opening in the bobbin basket. Readjust if needed. 6. The only other thing that could affect your skipped stitches is if your needle bar has play in it from bushings that are worn. If that's the case not only the needle bends, but the needle bar holding it does too. To check that, run the machine for 10 minutes or so, and then grab the needle bar and see if it wiggles back and forth. If the bushings allow wiggle, it's possible to change them but that's a bit more involved. Let us know if you discover play and we can visit about that.
  19. 1 point

    Singing the Praises of Bliss

    I am Thrilled! I had done some freehand stuff on a practice piece since I upgraded to Bliss, but life has been busy. Today I loaded a quilt, and my word! I am in Love! The quilt was very simple. 10 inch blocks, 4 across and 5 down with 3 inch sashing. I SIDed the blocks and did simple straight lines in the sashing (what the customer wanted). I marked the quilt before I loaded it. I seriously did not pick up one ruler. I did the whole thing freehand. Even the long horizontal lines. All the SID, no ruler. The control is amazing. I can't wait to get started on my next one. I don't know why I waited so long to upgrade. I feel like I have a whole new machine. Loving it! Peggy
  20. 1 point

    when the quilt top isn't square

    I'll add another reply concerning keeping a top as square as possible on the frame. Start with the backer and batting loaded. You want to load the top square. You can't be sure the outer edge of the border is straight. If it waves or was cut a bit crooked, loading that to a stitched straight line on the batting may cause it to load crooked. Instead of that (usually recommended) technique, load your top using the first border seam as a guide. Lay the top down and eyeball it straight/parallel to the roller. Then put the front edge of the hopping foot on the seam in the center of the line. Engage your vertical channel locks and slide the hopping foot along the seam. Anywhere the seam wanders away from the hopping foot, nudge and adjust it back. Pin as you go just below the seam. Back to the middle, checking that everything is OK and slide in the other direction, again pinning so the seam is straight. Then unlock and smooth the border to pin at the edge. I smooth the top and with a blue water-erase pen on my top (unused) leader canvas mark the outside edge of the side borders, the first seam, and maybe the exact center if it's easy to find. Those are the marks I want the top to hit as I advance it. Any wavering off-line gets some adjusting and pinning after I advance to the next quilting field. If I know the center is wider than the top and bottom edges, I'll try to migrate that extra into the center with each pass to try to keep the quilt square. Another tip--control any fullness in any block or area as you get to it. Try to make sure each quilting area is square and flat before you advance to the next and make sure the new quilting field is pinned into square before you start to quilt there. It isn't possible to make every quilt square. Extra care with every advance can get you close.