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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/24/2016 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Anne from Guam

    Hunter's Star in Aqua

    Here is a customer quilt I finished last week. It was really fun! Her Aqua fabric is Fairy Frost by Michael Miller and it is Aqua and pale purple.
  2. 4 points
    Update: After receiving my email, he sent a message back and asked if I could fix it. I explained that it would be $15/hour to take it apart, square it up, and add new borders. I estimated about $100 worth of work, but explained that I will keep meticulous records. He wants me to repair it for him. He also ordered four yards of 120" backing that is being delivered to my house. It is really a pretty quilt. I will post pictures when it is finished (which might be a month or so)
  3. 2 points
    Okay, please do not judge me I have no idea where all this stuff came from. The brown chair goes upstairs. I have been working a little every evening to get this is shape. I am ready to torch the rest of it.
  4. 2 points
    Liam

    Marking quilts

    I mainly only use chalk for marking my quilts. If I use colored chalk I use a light color, like blue, green or yellow. So far I have not had any problems. As far as removing the chalk from the quilt, my little red compressor does a sweet job (of course at a lower psi).
  5. 1 point
    jimerickson

    Long arm needles

    For years I've puzzled over sewing machine needles and the vast range of nomenclature to identify them. It started more than ten years ago, with my wife's Babylock serger, and has been a puzzle for me ever since. Little by little I'm beginning to unravel this mystery. Heidi's post of a week or so about Schmetz needles got me going again. I have used Groz-Beckert 134 MR GEBEDUR FFG/SES needles almost exclusively, with an occasional Singer 1955 MR needle thrown in. They've served me well, but I'm always interested in trying new things with the hope I might find something that I like better. With that in mind, I just ordered some needles made by Schmetz, and Organ that I think will work in my machine (this is where the mystery comes in) It is difficult to know exactly what needle works in my machine from the package nomenclature. Here are the package ID's of the needles I use, and the ones I ordered: Singer Groz-Beckert Schmetz* Schmetz Organ 1955-01-MR4.0 134 MR CANU:20:05 1 CANU:20:05 17 135x5 Set/R 1955MR 134R 134R SERV 7 DPx5 134 135x5 134 SAN 11 135x5 135x5 SERV7 135x7 797 DPx5 DPx 5 MR SY 1955 DPx5 SERV 7 134R - 1955 DPx5 The Schmetz needle with the * is the one Heidi is using. The other is the one listed as the long arm needle on the web site link that was referenced by someone else in that thread. Now I do know what some of the designations mean. For instance the MR stands for a needle configuration intended for multi-directional sewing. The 1955 represents a style of needle I think, and is probably duplicated by the R, and Set/R designation. The DPx5 I think means the same as the 135x5 and the 134 which I believe is the length of the needle, and the position of the eye. The CANU 20 I think represents the thickness of the needle shank. I know that the SAN 11 is important, but I don't know exactly what it means. Perhaps, how large the scarf is. The MR (multi range) needle provides a particular blade configuration and shank that is stiffer than others to proved needle deflection resistance. The SERV 7 design provides the same sort of benefit as the MR, but in a bit different way. Both have a larger and deeper thread groove in the front of the needle. Interestingly, the size needle recommended by Superior Threads, deals not with what you're sewing, but rather what thread (mostly size) that you're using. I notice that they recommended using an 18 or 19 size needle for King Tut, and a 19 or 21 size for Lava. Perhaps folks who use these threads (I don't), and have problems, have so, because they are trying to use too small a needle. The size of the groove in the front of the needle being the issue, not the needle eye size, needle diameter, or the fabric being sewed. I plan to experiment with the three new to me needles on the list, and find out if, and how well, they work. I'll up date this thread with my impressions and thoughts on each. Jim BTW, I'm not quite sure about the nomenclature on the second Schmetz, and I'll check it, and make any appropriate corrections when the packs of needles arrive. Also, anyone who know exactly what any of the designation codes mean, feel free to share your knowledge.
  6. 1 point
    Anne from Guam

    Pineapple Surprise

    I made a pineapple block without paper piecing or a foundation. I just sewed strips around the center and trimmed across the corners. It did not get all wonky or anything. But I need ideas on a quilting design, please !
  7. 1 point
    You all know that I have really been working hard to build my customer base, including taking some less that perfect tops and doing the best I can with them. A new customer contacted me and wanted quilting done. Nothing fancy- just a groovy board. I was all set to start on it, but I ran into several problems. The top was terribly out of square and had a parachute in the middle. The backing was 4 inches too narrow. There is simply nothing I can do with it. Here is the letter I sent by email today. Dear , I find that I will be unable to quilt your top at this time. As a longarm quilter, one of the things I must do before loading a quilt on the frame is insure that it is square- both the backing and the quilt top. This is necessary to maintain a straight and evenly spaced pattern, and to prevent taking tucks or pleats in the quilt top during the quilting process. Unfortunately, your quilt top has some discrepancies in width and length. There are a number of reasons this could occur, and if you need advice on remedying the situation I can help. The top narrow width of the quilt is 103.5 inches. The other narrow end is 102 inches. Across the center, the quilt is 108.5 inches. That leaves a difference of 5 inches. There is no way to quilt that flat and maintain the integrity of the quilt top. You will end up with a big "cup" in the middle that will have to be eased in by taking tucks or moving fabric around. In a quilt with so many straight lines and 45 degree angles, that would mess up the look your beautiful piecing pattern that you put so much hard work into. The lengths on the long side have a similar issue. The most common reason this occurs is because people cut the outer sashing strips to a certain length (usually what the pattern says) and then pull that long straight piece tight as they attach it to the pieced quilt top. The easiest way to fix it would be to create new outer sashing strips that are closer to the actual measurement of the pieced section. By removing your outer borders and placing your quilt on a hard flat surface, you can see if it is truly flat and square. then cut the outer strips to fit. I will be returning your quilt top, backing, and batting in the original box it arrived in. I will mail your check back in a separate envelope. If you are able to get the sashing strips adjusted so the quilt is square and flat, I will happily quilt it for you. It is really stunning and I can tell you put a lot of hard work into creating it. Teresa Taylor
  8. 1 point
    I wiil go by there after work tomorrow! Thanks Heidi.
  9. 1 point
    Get it with the coupon. I saved 50% so I think it was around $40! I love that it is on wheels and I can move it easily. Fits right under the machine too.
  10. 1 point
    Sheila S.

    Hunter's Star in Aqua

    I have been wanting to make this quilt and this one is beautiful. The feathers you did are wonderful. Great job. My husband and I have been on vacation for three weeks and we have one more week before we head home and I can not wait to get back home so I can quilt. Love seeing other quilters work on this forum. Sheila
  11. 1 point
    Quilting Heidi

    Marking quilts

    I use the blue washout marker all the time, you just have to wash it, not just dab it. You have to soak it in plain water to get all the ink out effectively.
  12. 1 point
    Ugh! I can't like any posts anymore, because I have "liked" too many. I wish someone could loan me some like Someone posted this on a Facebook page. I thought I would make a great place to attach my ironing board and good storage. You would just leave those pegs out of the top. I have a wide board that fits over my ironing board, and it makes it top heavy. I thought this would be a good option.
  13. 1 point
    chickenscratch

    Finished a Quilt

    That is a super cute quilt. I love it. Was it from a pattern?
  14. 1 point
    chickenscratch

    Groovy Boards

    I agree with Vickie. I use my Circle Lord stylus with all my boards. I have a few boards I will be selling, if you might be interested in them.
  15. 1 point
    That is awesome. I will have to show my DH. Another job for him to do!!
  16. 1 point
    Yes, its plywood with notches to hold each cone.
  17. 1 point
    I am about the same height and I agree nothing works that would work for normal people. My mom which is just over 5' says that everything in my studio is giant size.
  18. 1 point
    Cagey

    My George Needs a New Home

    George is looking naked as a jaybird. Hope he finds a new home as VA looks a tad nippy this weekend. Cagey
  19. 1 point
    Betsy Here are the blocks I have made so far....they are not squared up or sewn together yet but gives you an idea of what they will look like.
  20. 1 point
    LisaC

    Roger's Inverted Prismatic Star

    Ardelle and Roger: Outstanding, beautiful. Wow!