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  1. If you plan to do all SID first, start in the center. That's where the most fullness will live and where the eye focuses first, so it needs to be flat and symmetrical. The big issue with this is what happens to the rest of the quilt when you start in the middle. You'll need to float it, so secure the top edge of the top with pins (don't stitch it down because you may need to re-position it later). Then advance to the center, smoothing as you advance. When you reach the center, adjust so it's symmetrical then stitch baste or pin baste horizontally above and below the center. Then baste the entire top, stepping out from the center and keeping areas straight and flat. You will immediately see where else there is fullness and needing extra care. I've quilted over twenty Judy Niemeyer quilts as a pro, and none of them was flat---ever. With it fully basted, you can start anywhere you like, but I'd do the center first. Also, you aren't stuck with doing all the SID first if it involves a lot of thread color changes. You can SID and custom quilt a section at a time. The photo is my latest---Dinnerplate Dahlia. Good luck and have fun!
    7 points
  2. Caution *****It looks like Dave has re-registered on this site. This seller is Dave Jones, who has a bad reputation in the industry. He had a good gig buying and selling longarms and doing deliveries/set/up between buyers and sellers. But several deals went sour and caused a loss of reputation for him. Be very careful and make sure you pay AFTER delivery and not before.
    4 points
  3. 3 points
  4. Originally envisioned for the QUILT TULSA 2020 quilt show. Turned into my stay-at-home project. Took much longer than anticipated. Used left overs, class samples, rejects, cheater cloth, test blocks, random fabric, etc. Quilted in 6 parts on my APQS Millennium.
    3 points
  5. Well, after lots of thought, I went with my Circle Lord Jester boards. I really like how it looks, and so do my daughter and son-in-law!
    3 points
  6. BonnieJ

    Member

    Not sure how I did it or if I even need to fix it but realized I have two different memberships with this site. My original one was Bonnie in ok.
    3 points
  7. I call myself the 'cobbler with no shoes' because I quilt for everyone else except me! So my goal was to make a quilt for our new house, our new bed.... I wanted calm neutral colours reminding me of sand or pebbles.....I made this quilt using the pattern "Sweet Garden" from Carolina Patchworks. I was intending to make the entire king size with this pattern - and I did. Then I hated it, so I chopped 2/3s of the pattern off and added white for some neutral breathing space. Simple quilting in between the blocks. And then I got carried away in the white. [
    3 points
  8. Are you quilting a single piece back, or one you've seamed together? If you're using a pieced back, which way is the seam(s) mounted in relation to the rollers? If perpendicular, the seam allowance piles up, making the backing at the seam act like its shorter than the sides. Because of this, I almost always mount my pieced backs with the seams parallel to the rollers. That also allows me to pin the selvage to the leaders assuring me the back is square with the rollers. Jim
    3 points
  9. I don't know about that brand but there are Red Snapper side clamps that look like they are similar. I've seen others use them but I don't have them. I'm going the DIY way - I got some paint stir sticks (free) and some leftovers of the grippy kind of shelf liner. The liner goes next to the fabric and then a stick on top and bottom. I clamp the "sandwich" using my two existing clamps on each side. Seems to work fine for me at no cost.
    2 points
  10. dbams

    Loyal customers. ???

    Spam reported
    2 points
  11. I have just inherited three antique quilts that an Aunt of mine quilted. Her Motherwho would be my Grandmother, was a quilter and apparently taught her to quilt at a young age. Both are deceased and I never met either one of them. A cousin of mine inherited them in a cedar chest from Aunt Vera. They lived in Iowa. Recently my cousin told me after hearing me talking about quilting that she had the quilts and thought they would be better off with me. Two were quilt tops and one was a completed quilt. One top is tumbling blocks and the completed quilt we are looking for the name of the design. I have a Grandmothers Flower Garden and that will be my first top to tackle. One flower was apparently chewed by mice while in storage. I spent 3 days creating a new flower. IT WORKED!!! Our guestimate would be that this quilt is 100 years old. I am also concerned about hand quilting it and what type of thread to use as the fabric seems so fragile in comparison to our cotton fabrics. The flowers are surrounded with white hexigons and I used an antique handkerchief to replace damaged pieces. Those hankies are fragile also and worked out beautifully. That will give you an idea of the texture of some of the fabrics in it. I read article after article about washing them and finally put them in the bathtub with some special detergent and Oxi Clean as suggested in an article. I took the chance and you would not believe how beautiful the colors are and how white the white is now. I dried them over the porch railing. If you could help me decide what thread to use I will soon be ready to sandwich Grandmothers Flower Garden and quilting. I think it will take me forever to quilt it but I am so thrilled to be taking care of it. I would appreciate any comments you have.
    2 points
  12. ffq-lar

    Labyrinth quilt

    A customer quilt from 2019. I did a combo of feathers, CCs, and freehand swirls. Every area/border was stitched differently-but-similar.
    2 points
  13. SueD is correct. You didn't quilt her quilt, she rented your machine and did it herself and that is what she will tell her friends and family...she did it ALL. This in no way reflects badly on you. Quite the opposite, she will tell them how much you helped her. For being in business of quilting for others, you need to take the bad tops with the good tops. You start picking and choosing what tops you will quilt and what you won't you WILL get a very bad reputation! I do agree that quilt instructors need to properly teach finish techniques, which most do not. I quilt for others and will 'fix' a wavy border on the first quilt. I do tell the owner the problems with the quilt and instruct on how to correct that in the future. Should I get more quilts from this person with the same problems, then I charge more money and tell them why the cost went up. It doesn't take too many of the increase in fees for them to do their quilts properly!! I have Never refused to quilt for a person because their quilt wasn't up to my person standards!
    2 points
  14. ffq-lar

    Bobbin case

    You won't want to force it, but can you rock the hand wheel at all? Remove the needle in case that's part of the problem. Spray some WD-40 all over the case and remove the needle plate to spray from the top, to ease things along. If it's a thread snarl stopping things, a soak overnight might help soften things up. Last solution---remove the bobbin assembly completely. That will require retiming, but may be the last resort. The jammed bobbin case will be much easier to work on outside the machine. Good luck!
    2 points
  15. BonnieJ

    Quilt wolf

    Here is one I did with scraps had and made up design.
    2 points
  16. This often happens to me so I’m pleased I’m not alone. Mine is the right side when facing machine......I have tried numerous methods. Currently, if quilt does not have a straight line of horizontal seams, I mark my tops every 12” or so on each side before I load quilt, then use horizontal channel lock every time I roll to check the marks are in line. I also use the horizontal channel lock to run along the horizontal seam lines as I roll quilt. This has helped ......
    2 points
  17. i found a stack of over 50 vintage hankies for $10 this am wow, when I sorted through them there is enough to make three nice size quilts in three colorways. That said, a few of the light ones need stain removal. Does anyone know the name of the product ypunuse to soak vintage linens. i cannot remember it.
    2 points
  18. SueD

    cleaned with alcohol

    Previous reply reported as spam
    2 points
  19. It is my next project I will post when I get it done! I am so happy to see you too!!!
    2 points
  20. Here's a quilt with many National Park patches that travels with the couple in their RV. She sewed them down (I think she said she used a Featherweight) and I couldn't stitch on them with my Millie, but I echoed them once. If it will be a wallhanging, use a heavyweight double-sided fusible to attach them if they're too thick to stitch down.
    2 points
  21. dbams

    double batting

    Wool batting is also nice and warm. I love Quilter's Dream Wool.
    2 points
  22. Linda I bought that product and soaked the handkerchiefs. Absolutely amazing. Every single Stain came out. Thank you so much for the referral. Now on to making the quilt.
    2 points
  23. Thank you Linda. I will check it out. And find a source for the cleaning product. You are always so knowledgeable. I appreciate it. I see a handkerchief Quilt in my near future.
    2 points
  24. Hi Nancy Jo! Use Retro Clean to soak the hankies. It's not expensive and easy to find. It takes hot water and if there are heavy stains, more than one treatment. Works like a charm! If you haven't seen (Quilting Vintage) on Facebook, join to see lots of projects and advice for backing and stabilizing the hankies for use in quilts. Fun!
    2 points
  25. Just straighten the eye holding the bearing so it's at a right angle to the shaft, put a drop of oil on it, and you should be ready to go. Jim
    2 points
  26. Long day, completely forgot to check the carriage fuse! All is well, no damage. Thank you.
    2 points
  27. ffq-lar

    Baste a quilt

    I do this about twice a year--mostly for my hand-quilting friends. I charge a half-cent per square inch with a $50 minimum for this. But if you want, you can charge her by the hour. It may take you longer to load it than to stitch it, but you still need to be paid for your time. A moderate-sized quilt may take 2 hours total, so the $50 minimum is fair. No way is it a 10 minute job. Attached is a diagram of my quilting path for basting. It's a grid without long verticals and is very fast. Use a heavier, contrasting poly and a long stitch-length for ease of stitch-removal. Don't cross at the corners so the fabric can be manipulated by the quilter if necessary. Don't let your friend make the decisions ---she doesn't know what's involved. This technique and attaching binding on the longarm are services you can advertise. Not everyone offers them.
    2 points
  28. PattyJo

    A baby quilt

    This small quilt is a gift for a new mom to be's baby shower next weekend. I've known this lady for about 25 years since she was about 12. It took her a long time to meet Mr Right and now they are expecting their first - a little boy. This pattern is a MSQC and is in the tutorials. 2 charm packs used with poly blend batt and glide threads.
    2 points
  29. You are doing the right thing. Douse it again with WD-40 and let it sit for a while. That will soften the thread even more. Continue to pull out the visible threads with tweezers and try to rock the assembly manually. If necessary, douse again and let it sit overnight, keep working, and you should be able to loosen things up. When the assembly turns, start it at a slow speed to twirl out any thread that's left. Make sure you haven't blown a fuse with the jam. Wipe out and re-oil well with machine oil. Good luck, Jacque.
    2 points
  30. This is one I just finished for a friend. She pieced the quilt and I quilted it. I thought it turned out really well. I used Quilter's Dream Batting, and light gray thread on top with white on bottom.
    2 points
  31. Gator

    Batting storage

    Have you tried searching this forum? There have been many storage ideas throughout the years. Here's my favorite, easy to move and fairly cheap to make:
    2 points
  32. Contact you local high school to speak with the computer programming or business department. The teacher and students can see what you have and then possibly suggest or even put it all together for you. Recently my daughter's class was Business Academy was asked to help with promoting and developing advertising for local restaurant that was opening. The kids got real world experience and the business got some great ideas and options they used in promoting their new business. The business gave back funds they earned to support the high school program in the future.
    1 point
  33. If you want to choose only one , go with the Bliss system. Quilt Glide evens out the stitch regulator for micro-quilting and while it's nice to have, it won't be used often and it's not a necessity. Bliss is great and makes a huge difference for smooth quilting. I retro-fitted mine and it cost $3000 plus shipping. It was a good decision. Best, of course, to try out both additions first---maybe the dealer knows an accommodating owner locally who will allow you to try theirs.
    1 point
  34. Thanks for stating your position Mark. I know APQS is not afraid of being compared to the competition but I don’t see anything that makes me think this anything more than a competitor advertising on your forum. Nigel
    1 point
  35. ffq-lar

    M&m wheels

    Hi Monika. What you own is a pre-2000 Ultima longarm, not a Lenny. I don't know if that wooden table can even be upgraded to the Bliss system, which replace heavy-duty aluminum rails not used on your frame. The wheels are wood composite and I don't know if M&M wheels available now are a match to the ones on your machine. After 2000, APQS used edgerider wheels---that are horizontal and ride on the edge of the rail instead of on top. To investigate solutions for easier movement on those wheels, you should check that the tracks are pristinely clean without oxidation build-up, and clean the grooves of the wheels with alcohol on a Q-tip to remove any oxidation build-up there. Investigate if there are bad bearings in the wheels (they should turn easily) and that they aren't bent on the axles, which would cause drag. Drag can also be caused by a flexed/torqued table, so make sure it's level front-to-back in several places and along the length. If you can isolate where the drag is (like the length of the table means to check the frame rails and wheels, or front to back check the carriage wheels) it will be easier to diagnose. If it's in one distinct spot, the frame needs to be leveled. If you were able to stitch nice curves before, you should be able to again. New wheels won't fix that unless the things that support the wheels are correctly aligned. Good luck and email your closest dealer for more advice.
    1 point
  36. You can find blogs and websites where the heavy-hitters share their quilting. Margaret Solomon Gunn comes to mind. Also Karen McTavish, Lisa Calle, Bethanne Nemesh, Karen Marchetti, et al. I had a great class (in the before times) from Renae Haddadin about what judges look for in competitions and what they mark down on. Check out any of these talented people and then find out if they have videos or classes available. Also look for the judging criteria of the separate shows. Many stress piecing over quilting, some will split the difference. But winning quilts are usually an original pattern and have spectacular quilting. The "stretchers"---those who come up with innovative, cutting-edge quilts that they build themselves are Margaret Solomon Gunn and Bethanne Nemesh. I assume from your statement (you're getting competition-level quilts) that you longarm for hire and perhaps have customers wanting to enter some shows. If so, check the rules for all the big shows. The categories are sometimes capricious---like two-person quilts have to be a collaboration and not paid-for-quilting (but the makers share ribbons and prizes) or there is a separate category for paid-for quilting. Go over the various rules with any interested customers. Good luck and have fun! ( I had two quilts from the same customer accepted at Houston one year. It was a huge thrill!)
    1 point
  37. Arvilla Trag

    Need a George Manual

    Thank you, SueD! I have no idea why that didn't occur to me, but I did cook in aluminum for several years...
    1 point
  38. Did you read the post above yours?
    1 point
  39. SueD

    Heavy batting?

    100% cotton will be heaviest. Poly and wool battings are both lighter weight. Check here for more info about battings: https://www.hobbsbatting.com/resources/for-quilters/faqs/ https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5lQYaFAMueAVUE0QUE4TUt2STA/view Quilters Dream
    1 point
  40. jimerickson

    Shipping Information?

    I bought an Ult2 and had it shipped from FL to TX. That was 11 years ago though. I arranged shipping through an on line shipping website called USHIP. I don't know whether they're still going or not. It was a service where you list what you want shipped and the locations, and small independent haulers bid on the job. There were several levels of service available to the customer, from simply hauling to complete breakdown, delivery and reassembly. It cost me $550, and was a very pleasant experience. The fellow that hauled it for me was a school teacher who paid for his vacations and travel by hauling stuff for people. He did a great job, and I was very pleased. I had to wait a couple of weeks for him to assemble other items coming the same way, but it all went very smoothly. Now it's possible that my experience was unusual, but I don't think so. Based on my experience, I'd highly recommend the service. Jim
    1 point
  41. Spam reported
    1 point
  42. Thank you! I got the joints back in alignment easily by loosening the hex nut just underneath and then retightening. A drop of oil fixed the awful squeak! APQS said to use WD-40.
    1 point
  43. Robin

    Surf Song Bargello

    Just off my quilt frame this week, "Surf Song" bargello. From the book Twist and Turn Bargello Quilts by Eileen Wright. Needed a king size quilt for my bed and instead of adding borders to make a king sized "Surf Song" I kept building the bargello to the edges. I quilted it with IQ and the panto Ripples by Lorien Quilting. I will make coordinating batik pillowcases and of course still need to bind the beast!! Robin in MT
    1 point
  44. jimerickson

    Lenni

    As I think more about it, I have a question. Is the quilt top or back a batik fabric? Due to the usual tight weave, and some of the coloring agents used on this type fabric, stitching can sometimes be a problem. If you are using batik fabric, got to a larger needle, and use sewer's aid, or some other silicon lube for your needle and thread. Good luck. That just might solve your problems. Jim
    1 point
  45. Had the same thing happen to me on a bag I was making. I used steam a seam to hold some seams together rather than pins or clips. The seams weren't steamed, just used heat as I was just needing to hold something in place. When I turned the bag, some of that steam a seam was visible. Tried the alcohol and it worked great. This was on cotton and organza, didn't leave any marks. I was surprised I didn't see more posts on this when I goggled it. But glad I found this one. Stacey in South Carolina
    1 point
  46. Heywyre

    Heywyre

    I have just finished a wall hanging that is approximately 40 inches square. It is a pattern called "Mexican Stars" and now the quilting part and I don't have a clue of where to start or what pattern to quilt. Do I keep it simple (and safe) and just do stitch in the ditch or something a little more challenging? Help!!
    1 point
  47. You can use the water or air soluble markers. The water soluble usually have blue ink and the air soluble usually has purple. DO NOT IRON over these soluble marks or they become permanent. If you live in a high humidity area the air markers may disappear to fast for you. Have you tried using the white chalk and turn on your black light? Sometimes we forget most APQS machines come with black light. I use the gray chalk marker on most items I have to mark. Stay away from the yellow, pink and blue chalks, they do not wash out. I also use the Crayola washable markers (like you buy for kids) but test that the color I use will wash out (put it on test scrap fabric and rub out with a paper towel or wash cloth). The Crayola markers are a lot cheaper than sewing markers but as I stated test before you use on the quilt. Hope this helps.
    1 point
  48. Are your leaders square or have they stretched (doesn't take a whole lot)? Quilting right to left then left to right is a great practice if you are comfortable going both ways. I will be back to check on you all tomorrow.
    1 point
  49. Hi, That message will come up and the machine will stop, as a safety feature when something is blocking the operation of the needle (ex. needle stuck in a really thick seam). If you had it off to the side without any fabric, you may have gotten some thread stuck in the bobbin race somewhere. With the machine off, you need to clear it and then turn it back on. It should then come up normally to the menu. Rotate your hand wheel a half turn at a time and check the bobbin area for stuck threads. I'm not sure if the needle was damaged, but you might want to check that too.
    1 point
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