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If you plan to do all SID first, start in the center. That's where the most fullness will live and where the eye focuses first, so it needs to be flat and symmetrical. The big issue with this is what happens to the rest of the quilt when you start in the middle. You'll need to float it, so secure the top edge of the top with pins (don't stitch it down because you may need to re-position it later). Then advance to the center, smoothing as you advance. When you reach the center, adjust so it's symmetrical then stitch baste or pin baste horizontally above and below the center. Then baste the enti

Caution *****It looks like Dave has re-registered on this site. This seller is Dave Jones, who has a bad reputation in the industry. He had a good gig buying and selling longarms and doing deliveries/set/up between buyers and sellers. But several deals went sour and caused a loss of reputation for him. Be very careful and make sure you pay AFTER delivery and not before.

Not sure how I did it or if I even need to fix it but realized I have two different memberships with this site. My original one was Bonnie in ok.

I call myself the 'cobbler with no shoes' because I quilt for everyone else except me! So my goal was to make a quilt for our new house, our new bed.... I wanted calm neutral colours reminding me of sand or pebbles.....I made this quilt using the pattern "Sweet Garden" from Carolina Patchworks. I was intending to make the entire king size with this pattern - and I did. Then I hated it, so I chopped 2/3s of the pattern off and added white for some neutral breathing space. Simple quilting in between the blocks. And then I got carried away in the white. [

Are you quilting a single piece back, or one you've seamed together? If you're using a pieced back, which way is the seam(s) mounted in relation to the rollers? If perpendicular, the seam allowance piles up, making the backing at the seam act like its shorter than the sides. Because of this, I almost always mount my pieced backs with the seams parallel to the rollers. That also allows me to pin the selvage to the leaders assuring me the back is square with the rollers. Jim

Originally envisioned for the QUILT TULSA 2020 quilt show. Turned into my stay-at-home project. Took much longer than anticipated. Used left overs, class samples, rejects, cheater cloth, test blocks, random fabric, etc. Quilted in 6 parts on my APQS Millennium.

You won't want to force it, but can you rock the hand wheel at all? Remove the needle in case that's part of the problem. Spray some WD-40 all over the case and remove the needle plate to spray from the top, to ease things along. If it's a thread snarl stopping things, a soak overnight might help soften things up. Last solution---remove the bobbin assembly completely. That will require retiming, but may be the last resort. The jammed bobbin case will be much easier to work on outside the machine. Good luck!

Here is one I did with scraps had and made up design.

This often happens to me so I’m pleased I’m not alone. Mine is the right side when facing machine......I have tried numerous methods. Currently, if quilt does not have a straight line of horizontal seams, I mark my tops every 12” or so on each side before I load quilt, then use horizontal channel lock every time I roll to check the marks are in line. I also use the horizontal channel lock to run along the horizontal seam lines as I roll quilt. This has helped ......

i found a stack of over 50 vintage hankies for $10 this am wow, when I sorted through them there is enough to make three nice size quilts in three colorways. That said, a few of the light ones need stain removal. Does anyone know the name of the product ypunuse to soak vintage linens. i cannot remember it.

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It is my next project I will post when I get it done! I am so happy to see you too!!!

Here's a quilt with many National Park patches that travels with the couple in their RV. She sewed them down (I think she said she used a Featherweight) and I couldn't stitch on them with my Millie, but I echoed them once. If it will be a wallhanging, use a heavyweight double-sided fusible to attach them if they're too thick to stitch down.

Wool batting is also nice and warm. I love Quilter's Dream Wool.

Linda I bought that product and soaked the handkerchiefs. Absolutely amazing. Every single Stain came out. Thank you so much for the referral. Now on to making the quilt.

Thank you Linda. I will check it out. And find a source for the cleaning product. You are always so knowledgeable. I appreciate it. I see a handkerchief Quilt in my near future.

Hi Nancy Jo! Use Retro Clean to soak the hankies. It's not expensive and easy to find. It takes hot water and if there are heavy stains, more than one treatment. Works like a charm! If you haven't seen (Quilting Vintage) on Facebook, join to see lots of projects and advice for backing and stabilizing the hankies for use in quilts. Fun!

Just straighten the eye holding the bearing so it's at a right angle to the shaft, put a drop of oil on it, and you should be ready to go. Jim

Long day, completely forgot to check the carriage fuse! All is well, no damage. Thank you.

I do this about twice a year--mostly for my hand-quilting friends. I charge a half-cent per square inch with a $50 minimum for this. But if you want, you can charge her by the hour. It may take you longer to load it than to stitch it, but you still need to be paid for your time. A moderate-sized quilt may take 2 hours total, so the $50 minimum is fair. No way is it a 10 minute job. Attached is a diagram of my quilting path for basting. It's a grid without long verticals and is very fast. Use a heavier, contrasting poly and a long stitch-length for ease of stitch-removal. Don't cross at the cor

This small quilt is a gift for a new mom to be's baby shower next weekend. I've known this lady for about 25 years since she was about 12. It took her a long time to meet Mr Right and now they are expecting their first - a little boy. This pattern is a MSQC and is in the tutorials. 2 charm packs used with poly blend batt and glide threads.

You are doing the right thing. Douse it again with WD-40 and let it sit for a while. That will soften the thread even more. Continue to pull out the visible threads with tweezers and try to rock the assembly manually. If necessary, douse again and let it sit overnight, keep working, and you should be able to loosen things up. When the assembly turns, start it at a slow speed to twirl out any thread that's left. Make sure you haven't blown a fuse with the jam. Wipe out and re-oil well with machine oil. Good luck, Jacque.

Turning you needle will help with skipped stitches, but not with tension issues. If you're using equal ruler tension in all directions, then I think it's a matter of tension adjustment. The direction you are sewing affects stitch tension by drag on the top thread. e.g. more tension in some directions, less tension in others. With very light tension the direction tension variables become magnified. My suggestion: Tighten your bobbin tension to 200 on you TOWA, then tighten your top tension enough to balance your stitches. With this tighter stitch, the direction tension differences will b

I use glide thread top and bottom not problems. Do you ask your customers where they bought the minkie? There are some really terrible copycats out there. I have problems with the cheap brands. I prefer "cuddle" over minkie, it comes out perfect every time.

Hi - Thought I would update - I spoke with the Amazing Amy and it might be I can just do a belt adjustment ! She sent me videos, and once I find Allen wrenches and do a little Yoga to slow my heartbeat down, I'll be doing this chiropractic adjustment on my machine …

You have several things to look at---it doesn't have anything to do with the brake. First, make sure the backers you load are perfectly on-grain. This can be done with tearing the fabric instead of rotary cutting. If it's always on one side, your rollers may not be perfectly parallel or level. Just a small bit high on the right side will cause that side to roll tighter, which magnifies with every advance. Use a long level to check for horizontal level. Then adjust the bolts that attach the roller to the frame until the roller is level. Unfurl your leaders when you check for level so you are on

I mounted 3 baby quilts at once. I used the same length of backing fabric for all 3 but used different battings. Used my faithful 2002 Millenium.

Baby quilt I made for a friend. Nursery is done in these colours and theme is sheep

This is one I just finished for a friend. She pieced the quilt and I quilted it. I thought it turned out really well. I used Quilter's Dream Batting, and light gray thread on top with white on bottom.

Have you tried searching this forum? There have been many storage ideas throughout the years. Here's my favorite, easy to move and fairly cheap to make:

She's a beauty! Wish I weren't so far away! If you ever consider shipping for additional fee - reach out please. jessk3687@gmail

"Lots of stops and starts with concentric circles." Good point, Shana!

Hi Stevi. Thank you for your inquiry. My first inclination is to decline shipping as an option mostly because of logistics. I have the box for the sewing head but I have no idea how to safely package a 12 foot long steel table and all the parts. If there is a way to ship it, I would expect the buyer to pay the cost and accept all liability if something got damaged in transit after it left my house. Is that something you would be willing to do? I would prefer that whoever buys my Lenni would first come here to test drive it so they can see how beautifully it quilts before they purchas

100% cotton will be heaviest. Poly and wool battings are both lighter weight. Check here for more info about battings: https://www.hobbsbatting.com/resources/for-quilters/faqs/ https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5lQYaFAMueAVUE0QUE4TUt2STA/view Quilters Dream

Thought I put in pictures.

Lorri Maybe you could wrap a couple of turns of electrical tape or similar around your hopping foot to increase the diameter to the true half inch. It would be an inexpensive fix until you find the exact feet you are looking for. Nigel

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Stan, the biggest advantage to our Facebook pages is the fact that those of us who follow the various groups get instant notifications that someone needs help. These forums have to be checked periodically, which can sometimes fall through the cracks. And even if we see and respond to a post, the user might not see our response for some time. On Facebook, our interaction can be in real time - and is a searchable resource for other users. Yes, these forums are a similar resource and are searchable, but they don't feed past users' eyes, where someone might say, "Wait, that's just like what I expe

PFAFF PowerQuilter 16.0 Sit Down Longarm Quilting Machine. We have one with a stitch regulator, one without. Location - Lancaster, PA $2995 with Stitch Regulator $2495 without. Shipping is an option depending where you live. We can freight ship these machines.

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Thanks @mark ! I just wanted to verify that 4'5" is the absolute minimum space a machine takes up when not used. I completely understand needing to have room around it to use it, but I'm trying to figure out "storage" footprint when not in use (every inch helps!) Michelle

I'm sure someone would offer. We all love our machines. If you want to travel a bit to Tucson I'd be happy to show you.

If you go to Facebook and search for the "We Love APQS" group, there's a Millie/Freddie manual in the Files Section.

You should be able to open the files on the flashdrive. But here's the chapter on cleaning and oiling your machine. 18 Cleaning & Oiling the Hook and Wicks.pdf

I purchased a 4'x12' painters canvas drop cloth, sewed a casing on each side and ran a cord thru the casing and then looped the ends of the cord around the ends of my frame ... makes a perfect sling to hold the batting for one quilt.

I charge .12 per linear inch to just sew it on one side with my DM, .25 per linear inch if I sew it on and then hand sew it down, so to do it entirely by machine I'd go somewhere in the middle...? I'd rather spend my time either longarming or doing my own quilts so I charged what I thought was more to try and discourage people from asking, I still get one now and then.

Anna, You probably could loosen your bottom tension a smidgen too. Actually, the Trilobal thread (40wt) is a heavier thread than the (50wt) So Fine. The trilobal thread actually has 3 diagonal cuts (tri) making it a triangular shape and this is what weakens the thread. I had no problems running the 40wt on George. You just need to play around with that top tension and you will probably need to go a little slower. You will need to loosen your tension A LOT. Also, try going through just 2 holes in the 3 hole pre-tensioner guide. You can also move that guide to adjust tension. Go back

Photo of extra zipper leader...