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Everything posted by Smweinbeck

  1. Thanks for responding. I, too, think it sounds interesting and am curious to see what can be done. I do think it’s along the line of appliqué. I think I’ll give it a try— might be just the creative adventure I need between projects.
  2. Have any of you used the longarm for piecing? Several quilters featured on The Quilt Show (hosted by Alex Anderson & Ricky Tims) have mentioned they do their piecing and — most interesting to me — collage work on the longarm. I still consider myself a new user; I have quilted a few quilts on my Lenni, but am intrigued by the idea of using it for creating the top, as opposed to only using it for the final quilting. I’m not quite sure how to proceed. I guess just attach the background fabric to a front and back roller and begin? Are there special considerations to be aware of since there aren’t 3 layers - such as tension, etc. If you’ve done piecing and/or collage on the longarm, would you please share any tips or suggestions,? Thanks, Susie
  3. Okay, that’s what I thought. Thanks for the help!!
  4. Thank you for posting a picture. But I’m still a little confused. Is the right side of your quilt top attached to the side of the canvas that has the printed label? I guess I’m a little dense!
  5. I am still very new at using my Lenni. I’ve done one quilt, but it’s taken me a couple months to get another quilt top ready, and now I’ve forgotten some things about loading the quilt on the machine. I’ve watched the videos and read the manual but one thing is never clear. When attaching the quilt top in a partial float, which side of the canvas do you attach the quilt top to? Should it be pinned onto the same side that the canvas’ printed label is on? Or should the label be flipped over and you are attaching the quilt top to the backside of that piece of canvas? Or does it even matter? The video did show which side of the canvas roller to attach the backing to (the side opposite the label). I am frustrated! Can’t believe that wasn’t made more clear in the manual or the videos. (I had had someone help me load the quilt the first time.) Thank you for any help!!!
  6. Deb- I don’t do show quilts either, so your method works for me! Thanks!
  7. Thanks- sounds like maybe I’m on the right track then. I use Glide. I have crawled under the machine, but didn’t think to use a flashlight .
  8. I apologize that this will seem like a very dumb question, but I have become obsessive about those stitches I put in at the start of my stitching — how many to use, and how to do them correctly. I think they're called anchor or locking stitches.( I’m referring to those little stitches you put in manually instead of burying your thread). Im finding I need to use these throughout the quilt many times - when I come to an area which will be stitched using different thread, or when my quilting design has to stop and start around a block or an appliqué. I worry that if I only put in 3 or 4 stitches, they could easily be pulled out, accidentally. So I go overboard and put in about 8 tiny stitches, moving back & forth. But I’m concerned that these are going to show on the back, with big wads of thread. I’m currently on my very first attempt at longarming, so my quilt is loaded on the machine and I can’t really tell how the back is looking. How do others handle this.? As I said, it’s kind of a minor thing, but could make a difference. Thank you!
  9. Yes, it makes sense. I find the whole tension thing tricky - I never really had to think about it with my domestic machine! But I’m learning! Thanks for the help!
  10. Oh, that’s good to hear! Since it was for practice, I was just using muslin. I can see where that might explain these ripples. I will test it out on regular fabric before diving in to do my first actual quilt on my Lenin. I was glad to hear you say it looked normal… I sometimes wonder if I am looking for problems where none exist, partly b cause I’m not exactly sure what good stitching should look like.
  11. Another plea from a struggling newbie! I am posting a picture showing the tiny ripples that appear all around my practice stitching. I have spent a lot of time since getting the machine learning about tension and thought I had it right, until I stitched these couple lines. Tried tweaking that but still getting ripples. It seems like taut fabric could result in wrinkles, but I don’t feel the fabric is stretched that tightly. Please let me know if you have any ideas after looking at the picture below! I have so appreciated the helpful comments I’ve received on a couple other Issues I’ve had to post about. Thanks in advance.
  12. User error! In double-checking everything, it seems the problem may have been in the thread path afterall. I re-threaded and all seems to be okay now. But thanks for your suggestions! For future reference, you mentioned “needle plate.” Did you mean the hole in the actual needle, or the hole the needle goes into? Either way, not sure I’d know how to tell if there’s a burr there.
  13. I’ve seen some of the posts about thread breaking/shredding, but my question Is a bit different ....can a new needle actually cause thread shredding? After many issues with tension — which I finally resolved— things were humming along somewhat smoothly. I decided it was probably time for a new needle. After I changed it, I started having issues with the thread breakage and shredding. I hadn’t changed anything else — the thread, thread path, tension, etc. is the same. The new needle is one that came with my Lenni. Any ideas what I can check?
  14. A pretty minor question, but I’m stumped so thought I’d pose the question. The quilt I’m about to quilt has a lot of white background, and some colored batik shapes pieced in here and there. . It would be considered a modern quilt. With so much white, should I use white thread, or the sort of off-white (linen) Glide? In the past, I’ve steered away from white, thinking it’s too stark or bright, but I have never had an all-white background. Also, if I use white thread, should I use a more neutral (like off-white or light grey) on the batik parts? Thank you!
  15. Thanks for the ideas! After some test-runs, I’ve decided I will use registration marks to keep on track with the wavy lines as Gail suggested, and will use a pre-drawn motif and the lazer, as Jim mentioned, for inside the large triangles. Both great ideas!
  16. Gail- Thank you! Your post is very helpful. I think I will SID the triangles as I come to them. There are no piecing lines that would be useful as a guide for the horizontal curvy lines. I do like the idea of making registration marks - I think that should be enough to keep me on track. I’m nervous, but feel it’s time to dive in! I appreciate your help!
  17. I have my new machine and have been to the training. I’ve done some practicing and would like to get started quilting on a top that’s been waiting, and now realize I have so many questions. i plan to quilt a motif inside pieced triangle shapes. Then I will do curvy lines across the entire background. My two main questions: 1. Do you always stitch around (outline / stitch in the ditch) around all your elements - in this case, the pieced in triangles? 2. To make sure all my wavy lines don’t start going at an angle instead of keeping even horizontally, should I pre-mark guidelines ? I’m picturing horizontal stripes as guides all down the entire quilt. Please help! That seems like a lot of marking.
  18. My new Lenni machine came last week. After I’ve had a chance to get in some practice, I will want to quilt the top I have waiting. There are so many options I don’t know where to start. I’d appreciate any suggestions. Thanks!
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