Cheeky Cognoscenti

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About Cheeky Cognoscenti

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  • Birthday 05/27/1973

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    http://www.CheekyCognoscenti.blogspot.com

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    Female
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    Charlotte, North Carolina, U.S.A.

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  1. What is the "I/S" and "I/S Manual" adjustment that Jim and Lora are talking about?
  2. Kueser, do you remember how much it cost for your Millie’s Spa Visit (excluding shipping)?
  3. Barb, do you ALWAYS wrap every thread 3 times around the thread break sensor wheel or does it depend on the weight of the thread you're using? With 40 weight King Tut, I feel like going three times around that wheel is adding way too much additional tension to my top thread and making it difficult to get a balanced stitch, even with the upper tension dial loosened to the point that the tension discs aren't touching. I really wish APQS would issue a completely revised manual for the current machine models rather than a book that refers primarily to discontinued models with completely different controls, and making new owners go hunting around for the "new controls" information. Didn't these "new controls" come out, like, 10 years ago -- isn't that enough time to update the manual? An outdated owner's manual makes it that much more difficult for new owners to become comfortable using their machines. Rebecca Grace
  4. Valerie, CONGRATULATIONS and thanks for posting. I ordered a set of zippers for my Millie two years ago when I bought my machine, and I STILL have not gotten up the courage to try attaching them to my leaders! I just keep pinning and telling myself I'll get around to sewing those zippers on some other day that never comes. I know I'm a total dork but there are so many other things I'm still learning; didn't want to throw a new variable into the mix and have to wonder if maybe I put the zippers on wrong and that was causing me trouble. Would you mind posting a link to the video tutorial that was helpful to you? All I know is that you use your longarm machine to sew the zipper to your canvas edge, but I don't get how you make sure the zipper is perfectly centered and aligned and straight all the way down as you're sewing it down. Rebecca Grace
  5. Poor tension that shows up only in certain directions (moving the machine from right to left and from front to back) indicates needle flex. I wrestled with this on a charity quilt where they gave me tightly woven poly-blend bed sheet backing (NEVER AGAIN!!). So the culprit could be a very tight weave fabric, like bed sheets or batiks. You can also get needle flex tension problems if your quilt sandwich is pulled too tight on your frame, if your needle is too small, or if you're moving the machine too fast. Try loosening your quilt sandwich in the frame if it's taut like a drum, try slowing down, and try going up to a larger needle and see if any of those help. Rebecca Grace www.CheekyCognoscenti.blogspot.com
  6. MarleneB, are you still having trouble with Glide? It is possible to have balanced tension where both the bobbin thread and the needle thread are too tight. You could try loosening both the upper and bobbin tension to where the stitch is still balanced but not quite as tight, and see if that resolves your issue with breakage. It is also possible that there is a little nick or burr on your needle, even if it is brand new (sometimes you get a defective one) and that would cause your upper thread to break repeatedly as well. Rebecca Grace www.CheekyCognoscenti.blogspot.com
  7. How does the upper thread break sensor on a Millennium affect tension? I was using 40 weight YLI machine quilting cotton on my last quilt, a small horizontally wound spool so I had it on the accessory horizontal spool pin, and I had it wrapped around the upper thread break sensor 3 times as instructed by the little sticker on the machine. I felt like that triple wrap around the thread break sensor wheel was putting a LOT of additional tension on the upper thread, even when I loosened the tension dial to the point that the tension discs were no longer touching. I did experiment with skipping some of the other thread guide holes along the thread path, but delld's suggestion to wrap a lightweight thread "up to three times" around the sensor has got me thinking... With a heavier weight quilting thread such as 40 weight, do experienced quilters wrap the thread only once or twice around that sensor wheel -- or would I be better off not using the upper thread break sensor at all in these situations? I've been wrapping three times around that wheel routinely with whatever thread I'm using; felt like I ought to use the feature since I have it, but honestly when I'm doing custom quilting from the front of the machine, I can see the thread break when it happens and don't need the machine to tell me about it like I would if I was quilting a panto from the rear. I feel like the upper thread break sensor is restricting my ability to fine-tune upper thread tension. Any thoughts/feedback appreciated especially as I'm about to attempt some quilting with Superior Metallic thread for the first time and I don't want to deal with snapping thread trauma! Rebecca Grace, newbie owner of preowned 2013 Millennium www.CheekyCognoscenti.blogspot.com
  8. Is there a batting bar available for the Millie as well? I hate that my batting is down on the floor where there is always, always dog fur no matter how often I vacuum... :-) Rebecca Grace www.CheekyCognoscenti.blogspot.com 2013 Millennium
  9. I recently purchased a 2013 Millennium equipped with the L size Smart Bobbin. I'm getting frustrated by how quickly those little bobbins run out -- probably I'm spoiled because my domestic sewing machine for piecing (and what I used for machine quilting prior to getting my longarm) is a Bernina with a giant bobbin that holds twice as much thread as my Millie's bobbin can hold. I have seen some posts on this forum from several years ago indicating that it's possible to order a kit from APQS to switch from one hook system to the other, and I'd like to know more about that option. I emailed APQS support several days ago but have not heard anything back. Has anyone on this forum regretted ordering a machine with the M bobbin? If you have the M bobbin configuration on your APQS machine, how do you like it? Any issues? Any regrets? Anyone out there switched their machine from Smart Bobbin to M bobbin? How much did it cost, was it difficult to do, and are you happy you did it? Also wondering what's involved in adjusting the industrial bobbin winder that came with my Millie to wind M bobbins rather than L. Thanks, Rebecca
  10. First, are you careful to load your batting right side up? Like Dawn Cavanaugh says in her video, remember "dimples up, pimples down." Needle punched battings like the ones you're using should be loaded so that your machine's needle is entering the batting in the same direction that the needle punching was done at the batting factory. Another consideration is thread. I had a similar issue with a Minky backed quilt where I used monofilament to SID and had NO problems with batting poking through, but then when I switched to cotton Aurifil thread for decorative quilting I started to get those random batting tufts. I finally decided that it was the textured surface of the cotton thread that was "grabbing" those batting fibers and pulling them through the needle holes at the back side of the thread. I don't know why this happens with some quilts and not others, but my experience is that slippery threads like Glide trilobal polyester or monofilament are less prone to this problem. One more thought -- what size needle are you using? A smaller needle would leave a smaller hole for batting to poke out. In fact, sometimes it just looks like the batting is poking out when really you're just seeing the batting through a large needle hole, and as soon as the quilt relaxes off the frame or is washed, those needle holes close up and the problem goes away.
  11. I know it's been a few months since Mona posted this question -- hopefully she has it worked out by now but I wanted to chime in for others who may be facing the same issue. Yes, the tension problems that only happen when you quilt from East to West and South to North (viewed from needle side of the machine) indicate needle flex, but if Mona's problem was due to her timing being off, she would see the problem on all of her quilts -- she says she doesn't have this problem when quilting pantographs. So I'm wondering what is different when she follows pantographs. It's possible that she moves the machine slower for a pantograph in order to stay on the lines better and she's moving her machine a lot faster when she quilts freehand from the front. I would suggest that she try slowing down, shortening her stitch length slightly, and/or using a larger needle before messing with her timing.