SueD

@Daniel Galiher  Posts do not get removed from the forum.  However, you can edit the original post to add the word "sold" in the title.   

I think the idea for having multiple spools is when you are using multiple thread colors on a quilt.  You can keep the spools on the holder.  

Use the canned/compressed air first.  Then do the WD40 "bath".  Start the machine on a slow speed then gradually increase it and spin out the excess WD40.  Shut the machine off (important!) and then wipe out the area with a clean rag.  Never try to wipe out the area while running - that's a good way to get a rag caught in the bobbin area and throw off the timing.  Lastly, oil the machine.  
That is the order of the cleaning and oiling hook maintenance in the manual I have.  It doesn't say to use the compressed air AFTER the WD40.  The hook area is sealed which is why you can use compressed air.  However, I wouldn't use it after the WD40 as that's just spreading around something that will attract and hold dust and lint.  

Price, location and contact info might help selling.

Another brilliant idea!!

You might want to double check about having the Bliss system... it doesn't look like you do.  

Also on June 2, 2020 posted machine sold. 

I'm all about doing it on the cheap.  I made long side clamps instead of buying the red snapper ones.  I got some free paint stir sticks (2 for each side) and stapled some rubbery shelf liner on them.  (The sticks are like the outside covers of a book and the liner is the binding and inside covers.) I fold it in half and sandwich the quilt between the liner and sticks and clamp it on with the machine clamps.  I have more even side tension that way rather than just where the clamps normally would go on the fabric.  

Unlikely.  The original seller hasn't been on the forum since June 2020.  (You can see this by clicking on their name.)

Thank you. I have edited the post.

Dana Jo, I don't think it's really worth capitalizing a purchase under $1,000.  A collection of pantographs can add up, but on a per item basis, the cost is not much.  I am a retired CPA, and would not want to mess with piddly depreciation on items like that.  Obviously, you have to go with what's comfortable for you, and whatever your corporate return preparer recommends.
Good luck with your business!

There were several posts yesterday.  They were reported as spam to the admin and have since been removed.  

There were several posts yesterday.  They were reported as spam to the admin and have since been removed.  

I would guess you unscrew the textured screw all the way out so the hole is open.  That hole is where you mount it on the machine shaft and then tighten that textured screw again to lock it into place.  Unscrew the large wheel to insert the laser as shown on the package - then tighten that also.  If you're still having trouble, email APQS directly using the contact us page on the main APQS website.  

I think you could probably change to the L bobbin, but in my opinion that's a giant step backwards.  I went from L to M years ago and feel that's one of the smartest moves I've made.  I don't know of anyone who moved from L to M who regretted it.  Having used both systems on the same machine, I can say without reservation, there was no change in quilting performance.  I've followed the forum here for more than a decade and don't recall anyone complaining about an up grade to M from L.  BTW, free motion is all I do.
Back in the day when APQS didn't offer an M bobbin option there was a lot of advertising hype about the L system.  That's completely disappeared since they have had an M bobbin option.  How can changing bobbins twice as often be a good situation?  Learn to use your machine and forget about bobbin size.   Just my take.  Jim

My first question is Why??  
The purpose of quilting the top/batting/backing together is to secure all of the layers together to prevent them them from shifting independently.  
If you use a permanent adhesive, who wants that much glue in the middle of their quilt?  
If you only use something temporary, the end result is a giant pillow cover, not a quilt.  If it's a quilt that will be used & washed, this will make the quilt wear out more quickly.  The middle layers are rubbing freely against each other.  A quilt with 4"-12" between quilting doesn't slide around much when used or washed. 

Have you tried a smaller needle?  I usually use a 3.5/16 with glide thread with no problems.  I think some people go up a size for batiks.  One of my first quilts was a batik jelly roll race quilt.  I didn't change anything when I quilted it because I didn't know that maybe I should.  Maybe try a 4.0/18 and/or a 3.5/16 needle.  
Personally, it doesn't look bad to me.  I find we are our own worst critics and have high expectations.  And then we look at the stitches with our nose 3" from the quilt, sometimes with a magnifying glass.  Most other people look at our quilts and think they're lovely.  
Good luck,  Sue

I can only assume you meant to add a photo, but to garner some interest, what make, model, and year is your machine? How much use did it get? How can you be contacted? What is the price? Will you pack and ship?Any accessories included? Answer all the standard questions in your posting so people don't have to dig for answers. Make it easy so they don't need to go back and forth with you. If you don't add minimum details, most people won't bother to respond. Good luck with your sale.

Assuming you have an APQS machine, have you looked at the main APQS website?  They have a lot of helpful articles to trouble shoot and maintain machines.  They have current manuals available for download.  If you have any older machine, you can contact APQS and request a manual for your machine.  You may need to give them your serial number.  

Assuming you have an APQS machine, have you looked at the main APQS website?  They have a lot of helpful articles to trouble shoot and maintain machines.  They have current manuals available for download.  If you have any older machine, you can contact APQS and request a manual for your machine.  You may need to give them your serial number.  

Yes, you can easily get 2 sets of star pieces out of a FQ.  There's enough to get at least 3. 
If you had a F8 that was at least 21" (usable fabric, excluding the selvage) you could squeeze out 2 blocks from the F8.  You can see in the layout for the first cutting (pink), there's a lot of fabric you don't use.
3.375   3.375  3.375  3.375   3.75   3.75 = 21" across
3.75  3.75  3.375   3.375  3.375  3.375 = 21" across
Underlined amounts would give you pieces for a 2nd block.  Those 2 rows together are 7 1/8" vertically.  
I find it helpful to just draw it out on scratch paper to see the different arrangements for cutting.  They don't have to be to scale - just draw boxes and label the dimensions.  Then add them up across and down and see what you need.  You could use sticky notes too (label dimensions) - that would make it easier to move them around.  

You could use fat quarters if you’re not finding fat eighths. You could have more than one block with the same fabric (if you buy 10 FQ)  Or you’ll just have leftovers to add to your stash (buy 20 FQ).
This pattern does seem confusing as far as what they call the fabrics.
As I read this:
FQ = color B
Accent = color A
White = background 
It looks to me like the center square in each block is the white/background fabric.  It looks like those are the 4” cut pieces because everything else is an even quantity. 
If you wanted to make the center squares from a different fabric than the white/background, you certainly could.  If you’re doing blues and greens as your stars, you should have enough fabric (even using F8) to cut a 4” block. So if you had a blue star, you could do a green center square and vice versa. 
Just a thought… check out Fat Quarter Shop for free patterns. I find their patterns are very well written for beginners. 
Good luck and reply if you need more help!
Sue

You could use fat quarters if you’re not finding fat eighths. You could have more than one block with the same fabric (if you buy 10 FQ)  Or you’ll just have leftovers to add to your stash (buy 20 FQ).
This pattern does seem confusing as far as what they call the fabrics.
As I read this:
FQ = color B
Accent = color A
White = background 
It looks to me like the center square in each block is the white/background fabric.  It looks like those are the 4” cut pieces because everything else is an even quantity. 
If you wanted to make the center squares from a different fabric than the white/background, you certainly could.  If you’re doing blues and greens as your stars, you should have enough fabric (even using F8) to cut a 4” block. So if you had a blue star, you could do a green center square and vice versa. 
Just a thought… check out Fat Quarter Shop for free patterns. I find their patterns are very well written for beginners. 
Good luck and reply if you need more help!
Sue

There is one more issue.  That is the amount of fabric on the backing roller.  Now backing doesn't take up a lot of room, but it does make the backing roller "bigger".  At a certain point the diameter of the backing roller (roller and fabric) will affect the alignment of the quilt sandwich.  Probably not a practical  issue, but it is there.
I've tried doing this, and found it to be as troublesome as cutting and loading each back separately.  Haven't done it since.  Jim