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  1. Both IQ & QP have good features. I've had, CQ, two IQ's, and QP. I think that QP can do more than a lot of people give it credit for, but personally I did find that for more advanced features QP took longer and was more fiddly to set up than IQ. I do think that a big part of what a person is happy with is ultimately what they get use to and what they are willing to put into learning a system. I love both my IQ BasiQ+ and my IQ ClassiQ. If you are into doing a lot of manipulation and like all kinds of features then I'd say go with the IQ ClassiQ. If you primarily do more traditional quilting, such as pantos, and filling a block or triangle or other standard shape, then an IQ BasiQ+ might be a good choice. Some of the features that you will find on the ClassiQ are tasks that you can use some work-arounds that might take a extra step or two in order complete when using the BasiQ+ . of I've found the support for both systems to be good. Marie & Nathan at Grace & Dawn at APQS have both answered questions whenever I had questions about the QP. Everyone at IQ has been great whenever we have questions. We liked the IQ so much that I became a dealer for them, just as I like APQS so much that I became a dealer for them. Overall, I used my IQ more for my own quilts because I tend to like to do more artsy type quilts and IQ allows me a lot of flexibility when it comes to artistic needs that I have for a computerized quilting system. But I'd have to say that IQ thinks more similar to the way that I do naturally. I could make QP do a lot of things also, but I did have to stretch a few more mental muscles in terms of planning ahead vs. being able to change my mind on the fly. Personally, I think that it's really important for all prospective computerized system customers to do the following: 1) Try out the system - longer than the 5 minutes you might spend in a booth at a show. Spend at least a good 30 minutes - 1 hour minimum wherever you try them out. I don't care if you are at a show, spend the time. Most people wouldn't walk into a car dealer and drop $9-12K after spending 5 minutes just looking. 2) I will probably get in trouble with dealers for saying this, but ask the dealer to at least show you all the features that you think are important. Not just tell you, show you when you are trying out the system. Then you can see how much it takes to perform certain tasks personally by an expert. If the expert struggles, then how will they help you when you need help. That's not to say that they'd be a bad dealer to go with, it just means that maybe they aren't very familiar with the system and could make it tough for them to help you from a distance, say on the phone, etc. I can say that I would consider myself somewhat of an expert with computerized systems and even with that it is tough to try to help over the phone sometimes. It really helps if the system is fairly intuitive, meaning intuitive to that particular customer. I've helped people with almost every system on the market, but for the purpose of this discussion, let's just say I've helped both QP & IQ users that were easy to help, as well as those that were really a challenge to help via email, phone, & even in person. A lot of what determines whether the helping & training goes well depends on whether the system is a good fit for that particular person. If they don't think somewhat similarly to the way the system operates, it's going to be an uphill battle no matter what system they have. 3) Make sure that you are good with the amount of support & the type of support & training that you will be receiving. You might need very little. You might need a lot. You might love working from videos, you might not. It doesn't matter. What matters is that you understand what's available and that you are comfortable with that for the system, that you choose. 4) I can not stress enough how important it is to have a good relationship with your dealer and feel comfortable with whether they will go to bat for your needs. If possible, pick a dealer that you want to "deal" with for more than the time it takes to try out the system and have them deliver & set it up. Working with a customer on getting use to a computerized system is a lot more of a relationship than buying the longarm it will go on, but that's just my opinion. Let's face it, the longarm itself is a large sewing machine with some extras. Hopefully, everyone looking at a computerized system will have at least some sewing experience, so learning to sew with their longarm is relatively easy, compared to the time you need to invest in learning a computerized system - any computerized system. 5) DO NOT BE DAZZLED BY THE SMOKE & MIRRORS / DOG & PONY SHOW!!!!!! I mean, just because a system is advertised to have a bazillion patterns doesn't mean it's the best one. Should I repeat that? First, you are always going to end up needing patterns you don't have included. Second, there are several systems on the market that have tons of patterns that you will NEVER use. I have never had a call to use Wilber the Weiner Dog Pantograph that consisted of the dog, a straight line from front foot of one dog repeat to the back leg of the next repeat. I will take 50 basic, super useful patterns all day long over 1000 patterns that I will rarely, if ever use and I'm a pattern designer, who wouldn't mind if everyone bought every pattern that I ever made. But the reality is that some patterns are just not as useful as others, so the number of patterns included in a system means nothing. Look for & compare the number of useful patterns. Third, most dealers are good salespeople. It's their job! Most get paid on commission. They have a vested interested in closing the deal! They can make things look easy, convince you that you need all kinds of things. Now, you might need or want those things. That's great if you do! I'm just saying know what's important to you as far as features that you want & why they are important to you. That way you are less likely to get caught up in the excitement and choose something that you either don't need or don't really want, sometimes even regret. 5) Make sure that you somewhat understand the following before heading into any computerized system. Know what a folder is, know what a file is, know the difference between the two. Know what a format / file extension is. Know how to attach a file or picture to an email (this will help your support person figure out what is going on if you run into trouble. Know what a zip file is. Your dealer will/should show you how to work with these things, but it will help a lot if you know some of the terminology ahead of time. It will also help me and my staff, since at some point you might want to buy patterns from my company, but that's besides the point. It will make the learning curve a lot easier if you know a little bit of the terminology because it will make it much easier to communicate with anyone and much easier for you to learn whatever system you choose. In summary, make a list of features that you want, have the dealer or a friend who has the system show you how the most important features to you work so you can tell if you like how that works, get a little terminology under your belt if you don't have it already and pick a system that is a good fit FOR YOU, not your friends, not just because it's popular, because it's right for you. Best of luck & if you have any questions feel free to email me, jessica@digitechpatterns.com
  2. Cherylannie, I know that I'm still quite a ways from you, located in northern Wisconsin and while not your dealer, I am an IQ dealer, & I'd be willing to answer any training type questions you might have, now or in the future. Feel free to email me directly if you like, jessica@digitechpatterns.com
  3. It doesn't really cut the quilting space much. About 6" on the right hand end of the frame in the case of the Lenni because one of the motors is mounted near the right front axel and it sticks out about 5-6". However, that doesn't really cut the quilting width because the space that it takes up is passed where the canvases stop anyway. This is the case for many APQS machines with IQ on them. However, for some models one of the motors might be to the left and near the back or front axle. If forward enough they don't limit the width at all, even passed where the canvases stop if needed because it will go between the front and back of the table leg instead of right where the leg is on the Lenni. It doesn't limit anything in the throat space. The Intelliquilter computer itself is all at the top/front of the head of all machine. The IQ tablet can doesn't have to be removed for freehand, but it can be if you like. It's very versatile.
  4. Yes, you can add an IQ to a Lenni. You will need the normal IQ setup of your choice, plus you will also need to purchase an IQ carriage for the Lenni if your Lenni has vertical wheels on the carriage. I believe that Patty Butcher, Patty@Katydids.net, would probably be your closest dealer for an IQ purchase given your location. She is also an APQS dealer so that would be a very good fit for you as a dealer for an IQ. Jessica
  5. Thank you so much Georgene. That's wonderful!
  6. If you would like them in jpg instead of png, you just need to change the format to jpg, using the rename feature on your computer. Although, png is usually a higher quality image. I'll see what I can do about putting the images into a PDF file and uploading that instead, as that's the only way to guarantee that the images will remain at the original size and not reduced to save bandwidth when loading to the forum.
  7. Barb, Very little difference in QP. For some systems the P2P patterns are easier to set up because of the endpoints being the most exterior points on the patterns. Those systems tend to have an imaginary box around the repeat and by default they set up the pattern repeats to touch box to box, rather than automatically endpoint to endpoint, so that means that patterns that aren't p2p end up having a little gap where the endpoints are tucked in, until the users moves the repeats close enough together so that they touch & some systems require that they move each repeat manually to get them lined up - sort of a pain in my opinion, but it is what it is. QP has the options for a variety of ways to set up the pattern to force patterns with tucked in ends to touch, so either one shouldn't be a problem. I also adjusted the P2P one to be that way so that it is a little more squared off at the edges, which will make it a better filler for the interior of a quilt that will have a different border treatment. The other one is a little more random in look, more like typical background quilting. So they each have their own best uses.
  8. There are some great deals on the paper side also. Actually the process is the same & what do you know....I took a second look and my helpers got a paper Dollar Deals category up onto the paper side of the site without me knowing that it was done. Whooohooo! The links to the paper Dollar Deals are under Patterns by Theme, then Dollar Deals, they just didn't get into the homepage links because I set that notification up & didn't realize that they had gotten Dollar Deals category set up. So now I'm a little embarrassed that I wasn't fully aware of that being done. Such is life I guess. Good news for everyone that wants paper patterns at amazing prices. There's about 250 in the category for less than $5 each on the paper section of our site. :-)
  9. When you are on the home page you can click on any of our promo items names and they are actually links to those items. For example where you see Dollar Deals you can click on the words Dollar Deals and it is a link that takes you to the Dollar Deals category. Dollar Deal items are in their own category as well as mixed in with everything else. They are only available on our digital site currently. They won't be on the Paper part of our site, but they will be coming to the Embroidery part of our site soon. You can also find the Dollar Deals category by clicking on Patterns by Theme, then looking in the list for Dollar Deals and clicking on it. That will take you to the category that contains only Dollar Deal items. The same directions can be applied to any of our featured categories and sale items anytime we list them on our home page. Just click on the name of the category, designer, theme, promo, etc and it will take you directly to that category. You can see them as a little bit different color than the normal text. That's not an accident, it's because that's the link. This way you don't even have to look through all the sale items. You can go directly to the ones that interest you. Hope this helps, Jessica
  10. Digi-Tech Designs www.digitechpatterns.com Paper, Digital Quilting, Craft, & Embroidery Designs Annual Independence Day Sale!! 25% or more off all designs July 1st - July 4th. Click here for new digital,paper, embroidery items. July Featured Themes & Designers Featured Categories: Patriotic & Military, along with Stars will be 30% off all month long and we're doing a special on Christmas in July keeping Christmas themed patterns at 25% off all month long during July. Many New Items 25-50% off. Check our our Dollar Deals category where 400+ patterns are $5 or less every day! Note the dates and times of this sale are based on U.S. central daylight time zone. If you live in a different time zone &/or country please adjust your dates and times accordingly. Thank you, Jessica & the Digi-Tech Team
  11. Digi-Tech Designs www.digitechpatterns.com Paper, Digital Quilting, Craft, & Embroidery Designs Annual Independence Day Sale!! 25% or more off all designs July 1st - July 4th. Click here for new digital,paper, embroidery items. July Featured Themes & Designers Featured Categories: Patriotic & Military, along with Stars will be 30% off all month long and we're doing a special on Christmas in July keeping Christmas themed patterns at 25% off all month long during July. Many New Items 25-50% off. Check our our Dollar Deals category where 400+ patterns are $5 or less every day! Note the dates and times of this sale are based on U.S. central daylight time zone. If you live in a different time zone &/or country please adjust your dates and times accordingly. To access sale items directly: On the homepage for each section of our website you will see a notice of the Current Promotions. In that text the names of featured categories and featured designers, or other promotions will appear as a slightly different color, which is a direct link to that category. This means that you can go right to the items that you want to look at. For example: When you see Dollar Deals in the text on the homepage, it will be gray instead of black. Just click on the words Dollar Deals and you'll be taken directly to that category. This means that not only will you be able to find sale items quickly, you can go to just the sale items that you are interested in instead of looking through pages and pages of wonderful & enticing designs. While we wish that everyone had lots of time to look at everything we know that sometimes you just need to get to what you want, so that's why we've decided to link directly into those items. Please note that Dollar Deals for Paper can be accessed by clicking here and Embroidery Dollar Deals here. Thank you, Jessica & the Digi-Tech Team
  12. I have a few screen shots that I made that describe how I've been able to set up wrap around borders and corners using Quilt Path. The sample uses a border and corner from one of the grouping of patterns from One Song Needle Arts that we carry on our website, but I've tried with a few different border & corner combinations and it works the same way with some modification to the block/border sizes to accommodate different sized patterns. The attachments are below but may be out of order. Here's more info taken from an email that I used to send instructions. This was written before I discovered being able to merge some of the blocks in the Select & Sew section where the quilt layout is. I used the Design & Create portion of the software to layout a template of the quilt borders ( a couple of rectangles with the offset rectangles that represented how far away from the edge and the interior of the quilt that I wanted to be) then put in 1 corner and scaled it visually to the size that I figured would be close to what I needed. Copied and rotated the corner and placed it in the upper right, merging & swapping layers as needed in order to add the 2nd pattern and making it work independently, not as a mirror. I literally saved the corner at the size I needed, then opened/imported it into the same Design & Create page as the first. This way they worked independent of each other. Then I pulled in the border segment and measured the distance between the start & end points, dividing the approximate space that I had left by the length btw the start & end point. This gave me a repeat that was close if not exactly the size that I needed to fit between the corners I had on the screen already. So I saved that repeat as a new pattern file, naming it appropriately with “top repeat” in the name. Now I brought in as many as I needed to fit the span. I connected all of these repeats and saved the entire top border & corners as 1 file. It’s important that I saved the single “adjusted top repeat” because I will use it as something close to start with when I layout the sides. I then took that single repeat and turned it so that it would run down the sides. I also made a copy of the top bnc section and rotated it so that it could be placed at the bottom of the quilt. This gave me the distance that I needed between the top & bottom border sections. I did a little math to see how many repeats that I sort of should need by dividing the distance between top and bottom sections where the corners endpoints are located. I had discovered that each box in the grid in the Design & Create section represents an inch, and that a pattern will come in to the sewing portion of the program at the same scale if given enough room to do so. So I worked on this premise for my estimates on how many side repeats I would need. I brought in the adjusted repeat from the top, then rotated it to start fitting that side. I squished the repeat a bit to fit. If the overage of repeats is less than ½ of a single repeat I tend to squish the repeats, and if they are more than ½ over then I tend to take out 1 repeat and then stretch the remaining repeats to fit. I didn’t want to have to turn the quilt, so I left the side repeats as individuals and adjusted the size so that they fit perfectly. Then I saved 1 individual side repeat that had been adjusted as such “side repeat”. I actually labeled the single side and single top repeats as the “master repeats” because I will keep a copy of them in their master state even if I make further adjustments as I layout and definitely as I would physically quilt. This is because you want to have a “master” that you can go back to instead of trying to recreate a master from tweaked repeats that you might need to actually accommodate a quilt, since not all the sides may be the same as the measurement used for laying out the bnc patterns. (Reminder that "master files" refers to files that I sent to a customer to make sure that it would work with the pattern that She was using.) It’s important to delete the rectangle “guides” before saving or you’ll get them saved as part of the pattern since QP doesn’t have the ability to give you pull down guides from a floating ruler feature, which would be really helpful in all of this. So once I saved everything I needed as far as parts in the GPF format at “true size”. I brought them into the Select & Sew section. I then entered the outside dimension of the quilt and I gave myself blocks that would let me get close to the right measurement for the borders. I would recommend ending up with a block size that is slightly smaller than the actual border depth, if you can’t get everything to divide out perfectly. In this case the quilt had 6” borders with an outside quilt measurement of 56 w x 52 ht, so the closest that I could for an evenly divisible number of blocks was to go with 10 & 9 block respectively because I felt that it’s more important to preserve the outside dimensions of the quilt, rather than block size. This landed me with block sizes that were just under 6”. This told me that as long as I stayed inside those blocks with the pattern that it shouldn’t quilt into the interior of the quilt and still sort of preserve my buffer zone that I created in Design & Create. With the outside measurement of the quilt preserved and with a layout grid showing I selected the top/bottom border and corner pattern . It came in fitting into the block, of course, but because I had correct outside quilt dimensions on the grid I was able to enlarge that pattern so that it both fit The width with the border section still fitting within the top “row”, corners wrapping down into the first and last columns. Now I selected a side block and pulled in the side pattern. Since it was “pre-adjusted” you can bring the number of them that you need and do the majority of the rescaling at the same time. This allows for the pattern repeats to be the same and less adjustment needed later. I used the zoom feature to nudge the first side repeat so that the end of the side repeat touches the end of the top bnc segment, ends touching, or as close as possible. Then I did the same with each of the other repeats needed to go down the side. Whenever I made a further adjustment of size I did it to all of the repeats, knowing that they should fit perfectly because they did in Design & Create. Movements I did individually. I moved them while zoomed in. I just had to make sure that I remembered which blocks the repeats were originally placed into because if I had more than one block selected for zoom then any movement or sizing affected all the patterns that were in zoom. (If I'd know about the merge block I'd have used it so that I could zoom into 1 block space). Once I had all of one side completely fitted to the space. I took the repeat and copied it to the other side. Knowing that I needed to copy to the other side is one of the reasons that any sizing that I did on the side repeat was done on all of them at the same time. This way I knew that if one size fit, then they all would fit on the other side border. I rotated the pieces so that they continued around on the right hand side. Then I save the entire border as a “quilt” layout (QLT format). I know that there might be some minor adjustments as it’s actually stitched out to accommodate any variation in piecing, but this was a way to get the entire border and corners represented at true size, so that any adjustment would be minor and could be sort of done on the fly.
  13. Karen, Are you looking for assistance from me or information on on the Lenni at the quilt shop. If me, please go ahead & email me directly. I don't have any further information on the Lenni. You'd have to try the quilt shop again for information on that item. I just told them that I would post their contact information here for them.
  14. Karen, I design patterns and sell them on my website, www.digitechpatterns.com , link is in the signature. My company also represents over 65 quilt pattern designers, which can also be found there among the 8000 patterns that we currently carry. I believe that you've ordered from us in the past. If you go to the website you can do a search under "Patterns by Theme" then go to "Transportation", to find a truck/car panto, or you can do a search for the terms, truck, car, etc in the search window & then even narrow it down by panto, block, designer, price, or a number of other ways in the "sort" features or add to your search to narrow down the search using the "search within" window that is right above where pictures of patterns start once you've started an initial search. I know that we have a number of car &/or truck pantographs. I believe that Dave Hudson, Aimee Mahan, Patricia Ritter, and possible more designers have a pattern on our site that would be something that you might be interested in. Just let me know if you need additional assistance. Our phone support hours are M-Th 10am-5pm Central Time Zone, and someone is usually available for email support from 8am-8pm everyday except Sundays & Holidays, or if we're out on an installation.
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