northernquilter

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  1. If it is really bad, I\'ve used polydown double with a meander. I only have the warm products now so that is what I use. The key is not too much quilting and few crossovers. The soup cans just roll around on the top of the quilt as you move the machine. One word of caution though. If you have a cat or dog that likes to be under the machine, keep track of the cans. I have had them tumble onto the Huey, our daughter\'s cat, a couple of times. He loves to chase the cans from under the machine. Almost caught his tail once. Have fun. Bonnie from Northern BC
  2. This is the first time I\'ve replied to anything on this forum so hope it works ok. I have recently closed down my quilting business and am currently enjoying quilting all the tops I didn\'t get to do while working full time and running a quilt shop/quilting business. I have had my Millennium since 2001 I have done several "puckery" quilts. I try to choose a panto that does not cross itself very often and preferably doesn\'t come too close together either. The last one I did was puckered on the pieced back and the top. I used soft and white poly batting and Surf\'s Up panto. It turned out awesome. I usually use warm & natural or warm & white for the batting. Once it is washed it will be puckered all over and the original problem will disappear. I\'ve also used Bonnie Borseth\'s Shooting stars very successfully on several puckered quilts. Even though it crosses itself lots it seems to push the puckers around enough that it all evens out in the end. I actually find that the best thing for really puckered quilts is a medium meander with a couple of soup cans on the quilt (one on each side of the machine). You can more easily control where the puckers go if you work from the front and therefore avoid real problems that you can\'t see from the back. A stars & loops meander works well for that. Hope this gives you some ideas. Bonnie in Northern BC
  3. Grammie, I own a quilt shop in northern BC. I have my longarm in the store separated from the main shop only by the shelving. I am the only one working in the shop and I have lots of trouble keeping up with everything. I am working on a webstore, and if I can get it going well, I will probably only open locally a couple of days a week. I would suggest that you choose the part of the business that you really want to keep for yourself and then hire others to do the rest. I have begun hiring contractors for things that can be contracted out such as janitorial, making business cards and stationery, etc. You will be amazed at the amount of time all the little things take. When we opened shop a year and a half ago we didn't really think it would take as much of my time as it does. Be prepared to work evenings and weekends and any days off you think you should get. I'm not trying to scare you out of your dream, after all I'm still living mine, just trying to help you see some of the realities so you can hold on once you get it. Best of luck, Bonnie
  4. I agree with Kathy. I use a 3.5 MR needle for most of my quilting because I don't like the larger hole you get from the 4.0 MR. I have never had any problems with batiks unless I have to take them out. I've never quite figured out how to close the holes. They mostly come out the first time they are washed though.
  5. I switch between 3.5 and 4.0 needles. I haven't had any problems as long as I stick with the MR needles. Sometimes I need to turn the needle eye slightly towards the left to get a good stitch, but that is the only adjustment I've ever made. I have had my Millennium for about 4 years now and have never had to time it. I use mostly 35 wt threads but can use fine threads in the bottom and top without any extra breakage. If I find I am getting breakage or skipped stitches I move up or down a needle size and the problem seems to go away. If I'm using certain threads, I will loosen the top tension slightly before trying anything else. I usually get about 5 or 6 quilts out of one needle. When I started, I was told I should get about 40 hours out of a needle, and I usually do unless the quilt batting is one of those brillo pads. Bonnie Bonnie
  6. Judy I would like a copy of your scheduling spreadsheet. I have recently opened a quilt/craft shop and have my longarm there. I am finding it hard to schedule because I am not the only one taking in the quilts. I think your plan might work for me. Thanks, Bonnie in BC
  7. I have been having a problem with my stitch regulator for the past couple of weeks. It is working fine and then all of a sudden it will cut out and the stitches will be really far apart. I have checked everything I can think of but nothing seems to solve the problem. Can someone suggest an adjustment I might be able to make. It usually happens near the middle of the table both width and depth.
  8. Thanks for the tip. When we measured along the table we could see where we were out. It wasn't much, only about 1/16". We loosened the tube supports and retightened them being careful to keep them even. I no longer have the resistance I have always had. We did the same thing with the carriage tube supports as they were out by about the same amount. I will probably spend a few sessions fine tuning the wheels now and I should be a better quilter. I never thought about phoning for help but I had run out of ideas. This forum is great. Thanks again,