RunningThreads

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  1. Upvote
    RunningThreads reacted to Cagey in Surge Protectors   
    This is from APQS.  I cannot attach the actual .pdf file, so here is my best rendition cutting and pasting the images.  Edited to include images from pdf file.
    Cagey
     
     
     ELECTRICITY AND YOUR APQS MACHINE 
    With more and more electronics being used in quilting machines, electricity supply is more important than ever! If the incoming power fluctuates, the circuit board will starve certain functions in order to keep the boards powered, and the motor can be affected as well. 
    The printout below shows the incoming power here at the APQS factory. Notice how much the power dips towards the end of the printout – we are on the same power grid as Pella Windows, and at the time the power dipped in this printout, Pella had a large motor blow up. You can see how much we were affected by this, and it wasn’t even in our building!

     Even different types of power supplies can vary the incoming voltage to your home – solar, hydroelectric, wind – these types of power vary greatly, and the circuitry on your machine will suffer the consequences. 
    The next printout is from a customer of ours in Colorado. He was having problems with his needle positioner acting up at times. He asked for this printout of the power supply to his home over a 4 day period, and was greatly surprised at the varying voltages and amperages that was powering his home.

    Purchasing a battery back-up or UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) for your APQS machine is a great ”insurance policy”. APQS has done extensive testing on battery back-ups and found one type that is capable of running both the motor and supplying the needed power for the circuit boards as well. 
    Most battery back-ups or UPS’s output is a square wave. This wave type will not keep both the electric motor and the circuit boards running in a voltage drop situation. It will keep the circuit boards powered, so it is fine for other electronic equipment.

    The UPS systems that are recommended for our machines are able to output a pure sine wave, which is capable of keeping the electric motor running and keep the circuit board powered at the same time.

    With these UPS devices, you are able to even unplug the cord from the wall outlet, and run the machine for a period of time – which can be very handy during power outages!! 
    Technical information from the UPS devices we tested is on the next page. There are several companies on the web that sell these specific devices, and prices vary from site to site. The models listed on the next page show a variety of options; however, one is NOT pure sine wave so it is not recommended. The others are Dual Conversion backup systems, which are slightly different than the standard ‘Standby UPS’ battery backup systems. 
    Dual Conversion On-Line UPS is the same as the standby UPS, except that the primary power path is the inverter battery instead of the wall outlet. The incoming power from the wall outlet is stored in the battery, and the battery supplies the power to the machine – this keeps the incoming power consistent, without having the delay that is caused by normal battery backup systems when they ‘kick in’ to supply power. The Dual Conversion On-Line UPS provides nearly ideal electrical output performance.

    Be aware that UPS units can look very similar so it can be easy to select the wrong one. Look for a unit that is a PURE SINE WAVE output. For added advantages, choose one that is DUAL CONVERSION.
    The CyperPower CP1500AVRLCD unit above left does NOT have a pure sine wave output and would not be a good choice. Lower priced units typically are not pure sine wave units. Read the product descriptions carefully before buying.
     
    End APQS pure sine wave pdf.
     
    I spoke with SYCOM, and they told me that they do not have any Dual Conversion / Double Conversion units that would meet the price points above.  Theirs would be more in the $1000 range.  They did review all three items above, and suggested the Tripp Lite as  having the best power factor.  That is to say that how much power does the unit use to provide electricity to the quilting machine.  The Tripp Lite is 0.8, the Minuteman is 0.7, and the CyberPower is 0.6.  To clarify what I just wrote, the Trip Lite uses about 20% of the power to provide the pure sine wave coming into the unit.  The Minuteman would use 30% of the power to produce the same sine wave, and the CyberPower would use approximately 40% of the incoming power to produce the pure sine wave output.  Their units run in the 0.9+ power factor range, which increases the cost.
    They did go on that by using the device you would hypothetically extend the life of anything plugged into the device by 50%.  This is because unlike with most surge protectors with battery backup, there is a lag time for a surge or lag to be experienced before the unit switches to battery power.  With a pure sine wave generator, the item plugged into the device is somewhat always being run off the battery.  The unit is constantly soothing out the highs and lows of the electricity coming out of the wall plug, and providing a very pure power source to the output plug and the quilting machine/anything plugged into the unit. The battery backup run time is to allow you time to shut the item plugged in, without damaging the device.  
     
  2. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from quilterkp in Surge Protectors   
    We have the Tripp Lite SU1000XLA as recommended by APQS a few years ago.It is a little pricey but works excellent.  If I understand correctly it constantly filters the power and gives pure sine wave output.  I have unplugged the unit while the Millie was running and the machine didn't skip a beat, we couldn't do that with the cheap UPS we had before.
    It looks like they are still available but make sure you are sitting down when you see the price.  On the other hand you don't want the power going out while you are merrily quilting along and tear a quilt because you can't stop as fast as the machine does.
    Maybe call the factory and see if this is still the current model they recommend.
    Nigel
  3. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from dbams in Looking for ideas Update finished pic.   
    We go to office supply store and get the plastic protector sheets for the desk blotter.  Put some masking tape around the outside edge so you can see the edge when it is on the quilt top.  You don't want to draw outside the tape.  We also use a wet erase marker, it doesn't come off if you touch it like the dry type but will come off with a damp paper towel.  Also write on the tape this side up and you will always have the clean side against the fabric.
     
    Nigel
     
  4. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from InesR in M bobbins   
    Lora
    It could be done.  Do a google search for National two spool and you will see a hundred years ago it was done with domestic machines.  I don't know how well the tension would be from the start to the end of the spool.  Must be a reason it didn't catch on.
    Nigel
     
  5. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from quilterkp in Do you quilt off of the edges of the quilt top?   
    Denise
    If you can baste less than an eighth of an inch from the edge you will have almost no problems with the edge flipping over when the hopping foot comes back onto the quilt.  If you are using IQ you could reset the clip on each row as you get to it so you finish right at the edge.  I'm sure there are other methods as well.
     
    Nigel
  6. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from quilterkp in What's a good bobbin winder?   
    You could try Ray at Quilt Tech.  I know a few have purchased winders from him and I haven't heard any complaints.  I have one like it that came with my U1.  
    https://quilttech.com/product/bobbin-winder-l-bobbins-with-speed-control/
    Or if you are really on a budget look on Craigslist and find a vintage sewing machine for about 20 dollars and use the bobbin winder on that.
    Nigel
  7. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from AnnP in Rollers won't stay tight on Lenni   
    Liz
    Now that you know how to adjust the brake get some blue loctite loosen the bolt apply one or two drops of loctite on the threads and tighten back up.  You brake will not come loose again.
     
    Nigel
  8. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from MaryQuiltsTx in Pricing for Quilt Sleeve   
    Vicki
    My thought would be to estimate your time to do it and charge your hourly rate plus about 10%.  That way you can always charge less if it goes way better than expected and you are covered if it takes a little longer.  
    Nigel
  9. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from Ida in tension and needle position   
    Rosemary
    Ideally the needle should be straight if the timing is spot on. But many of us have found tweaking the needle a touch helps after we have retimed with less than perfect results.  As mentioned above check the thread path, is the tread firmly in the tension disks, check for lint under the bobbin case tension finger.  Your picture looks like you don't have enough top tension.  Every place your thread touches it will add drag (tension) so if you skip a bunch of guides your tension could be light.  Can you set up your phone camera to watch the tread path as you are quilting?  I suspect as you come out of the corners you get slack in the path above the tension assembly and then is goes taught again, this can play havoc with your tension.  See if there is a way to get the thread to come of the cone smoothly like we do when putting a piece of batting in the guide above the cone at the rear.
    Just my thoughts
    Nigel
  10. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from AnnP in Pricing for Quilt Sleeve   
    Vicki
    My thought would be to estimate your time to do it and charge your hourly rate plus about 10%.  That way you can always charge less if it goes way better than expected and you are covered if it takes a little longer.  
    Nigel
  11. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from quilterkp in Help   
    Mary Beth
    I agree with Jim that your needle was probably loose.  Do you have a new needle clamping screw? If not go to the hardware store and get one right away and throw the old one out.  The size is 4-40.
     
    Nigel
  12. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from MaryQuiltsTx in Help   
    Mary Beth
    I agree with Jim that your needle was probably loose.  Do you have a new needle clamping screw? If not go to the hardware store and get one right away and throw the old one out.  The size is 4-40.
     
    Nigel
  13. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from Mary Beth in Help   
    Mary Beth
    I agree with Jim that your needle was probably loose.  Do you have a new needle clamping screw? If not go to the hardware store and get one right away and throw the old one out.  The size is 4-40.
     
    Nigel
  14. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from MaryQuiltsTx in hopping foot and shank   
    Ida 
    I'm surprised you didn't get instructions with your new hopping foot assembly.  APQS is usually pretty good at that.  If I remember correctly you will have to remove the hook as well to change the hopping foot shaft.  The timing is the hardest part of the job if you haven't done it before so save the job for a day when you have lots of time.  The first time I had to time the machine it took a few tries to get it right.
     
    Nigel
  15. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from quilterkp in tension and needle position   
    Rosemary
    Ideally the needle should be straight if the timing is spot on. But many of us have found tweaking the needle a touch helps after we have retimed with less than perfect results.  As mentioned above check the thread path, is the tread firmly in the tension disks, check for lint under the bobbin case tension finger.  Your picture looks like you don't have enough top tension.  Every place your thread touches it will add drag (tension) so if you skip a bunch of guides your tension could be light.  Can you set up your phone camera to watch the tread path as you are quilting?  I suspect as you come out of the corners you get slack in the path above the tension assembly and then is goes taught again, this can play havoc with your tension.  See if there is a way to get the thread to come of the cone smoothly like we do when putting a piece of batting in the guide above the cone at the rear.
    Just my thoughts
    Nigel
  16. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from quilterkp in Millennium Throat space   
    Starla
    I just finished a quilt that is 112 inches long with Hobbs 80/20 batting.  I lost about an inch so at the end I still had at least sixteen inches of throat space.  We have another large one with Hobbs wool on the other machine but it will be a few days before it is far enough along to measure.  I doubt it would be more than another inch.
     
    Nigel
  17. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from MaryQuiltsTx in Best Feather Book?   
    Suzanne Earley has an online class as well.  Pay what you think it is worth so start the class and if it is not for you drop out and pay nothing.  http://www.suzanneearley.net/feather-boot-camp/
     
    Nigel
  18. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from Plumpurple in Best Feather Book?   
    Suzanne Earley has an online class as well.  Pay what you think it is worth so start the class and if it is not for you drop out and pay nothing.  http://www.suzanneearley.net/feather-boot-camp/
     
    Nigel
  19. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from quilterkp in Best Feather Book?   
    Suzanne Earley has an online class as well.  Pay what you think it is worth so start the class and if it is not for you drop out and pay nothing.  http://www.suzanneearley.net/feather-boot-camp/
     
    Nigel
  20. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from quilterkp in Machine sewing binding   
    There is an APQS tutorial for this.  There are quite a few videos try YouTube and search APQS.
     
    Nigel
     
  21. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from dbams in Channel Lock Solenoid   
    The easiest place would be APQS.  Look to see if you could use any other spare parts at the same time like needles and pigtail guides since you will be paying for shipping anyway.  They usually ship very fast and you will back in business in a couple of days.
    You might be able to find something like it in an electronics hobby store or if you know any students that are into robotics they will know where to buy parts.
     
    Nigel
  22. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from jameel in skipping stitches in one direction and fine in another direction help   
    Jameel 
    You could do it.  It is just part of the timing process.  If you started a dealership I think your husband would be like the old Maytag repairman.  These machines are actually very reliable.
    Nigel
  23. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from jameel in skipping stitches in one direction and fine in another direction help   
    Jameel 
    Once I had skipped stitches when using a new supply of needles that came from APQS (exactly the same label as the old ones).  I had to tighten up my hook to needle clearance and all was well and never had an issue since.  So it can happen even when you get the correct ones although pretty rare.
     
    Nigel
  24. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from judyday in skipping stitches in one direction and fine in another direction help   
    Jameel 
    Once I had skipped stitches when using a new supply of needles that came from APQS (exactly the same label as the old ones).  I had to tighten up my hook to needle clearance and all was well and never had an issue since.  So it can happen even when you get the correct ones although pretty rare.
     
    Nigel
  25. Upvote
    RunningThreads got a reaction from jameel in Long Arm Quilting in Canada   
    Years ago one of the ladies on this forum (sorry I don't remember who) suggested always have some handwork with you.  When you are waiting at the Doctor's office or waiting for your car at the dealer sit there and do some hand binding.  It may start a conversation and you never know where you will find a potential customer.
     
    Nigel