RunningThreads

I purchased replacement LEDs from Ebay from a company called LighthouseLEDs.com.  20ea for $9 including shipping so about $0.45 each.
  I have already removed that bad LEDs and soldered the in these replacements and the brightness and light color are indistinguishable from the originals.   The entire bank of 3 that were out are now working once the bad LED was replaced.
The part number and seller info is in the attached photograph.

RoyECanfield post reported.

Which machine do you have and how old is it?  Several of us had similar issues when we changed to M&M wheels on the older machines.  Turned out to be a static electricity issue playing havoc with the electronics (mostly in dry winter climate).  APQS came up with a grounding kit that seemed to work well.  Maybe drop an email to service and describe your problem.  Support has always been excellent regardless of whether your machine is under warranty or not.
 
Nigel

I loaded a back in the wrong direction.  I did not charge.  She still paid me and she was so grateful.  Return customer!

When we were new we used to add a piece of fabric to the left or right of the quilt top and do a little test there.  Then you can turn the edge of the quilt sandwich and see the back and adjust if needed.  Also we were taught to pull on the bobbin tail every time you insert a bobbin to make sure it felt right.  If you are getting lint from the thread then clean out the lint under the bobbin tension finger with the corner of a business card. Superior So Fine became our most often used thread because it runs so clean and that change alone eliminated ninety percent of our tension issues.  
If you haven’t seen it before I recommend watching the Thread Therapy videos with Bob Purcell. We attended one of his seminars many years ago and not once did he promote his brand over another.  What you need to know is not on the label.  
Nigel
 
https://www.superiorthreads.com/videos/thread-therapy?utm_source=media&utm_medium=marketing&media=PPCGNBT&gclid=CjwKCAjwybyJBhBwEiwAvz4G74VVZ5Km1A2j0EcSHIvYiaXf34nOls_zifRS6x23IJYi20CIztyrRxoCmdoQAvD_BwE&utm_campaign=PPCGNBT

Bring a hand mirror to check underneath (flashlight on cell phone helps). 
You should also be able to run a fingernail along the stitching on the bottom - if your nail is catching on each stitch, there's a good chance the tension needs to be adjusted.    

Spam reported
 

Lenni's got new skates!  
 

Spam reported

Thanks for stating your position Mark.  I know APQS is not afraid of being compared to the competition but I don’t see anything that makes me think this anything more than a competitor advertising on your forum.
Nigel

I would consider this inappropriate.

Peach  click on Daniel’s screen name and you will see a way to send a message.  That will go straight to his email.  Works for most online forums.
 
Nigel

Spam reported

Spam reported

In my mind no don’t scrap it parts are readily available and I don’t think the new ones really sew much better.  Do you know the manufacturer of the stitch regulator and the computer?  The most common aftermarket one was Intellistitch and Intelliquilter.  If that is the case there is lots of support available.  Let us know what you have or post a picture and we can probably send you in the right direction.  My old Ultimate 1 is still going strong daily in someone else’s business, not bad for a twenty five year old piece of equipment.
 
Nigel

Spam

Lora
Are you talking about the aluminum axle being loose on the bottom of the head?  From memory they are held on with two Phillips screws each and I think you can access them by laying on your back under the machine.  
 
Nigel

Serere and Gwyndolin reported.  

Did you read the post above yours?

Probably here are the instructions.  https://www.apqs.com/fuse-replacement-video/
 
Nigel
 

If you plan to do all SID first, start in the center. That's where the most fullness will live and where the eye focuses first, so it needs to be flat and symmetrical. The big issue with this is what happens to the rest of the quilt when you start in the middle. You'll need to float it, so secure the top edge of the top with pins (don't stitch it down because you may need to re-position it later). Then advance to the center, smoothing as you advance. When you reach the center, adjust so it's symmetrical then stitch baste or pin baste horizontally above and below the center. Then baste the entire top, stepping out from the center and keeping areas straight and flat. You will immediately see where else there is fullness and needing extra care. I've quilted over twenty Judy Niemeyer quilts as a pro, and none of them was flat---ever. With it fully basted, you can start anywhere you like, but I'd do the center first. Also, you aren't stuck with doing all the SID first if it involves a lot of thread color changes. You can SID and custom quilt a section at a time. The photo is my latest---Dinnerplate Dahlia. Good luck and have fun!

If you undo the four thumbscrews that hold the handle clamp on and let the handle hang.  You will see a couple of Allen head screws holding the back part of the clamp to the head. Tighten them up and reassemble.
 
Nigel

Caution *****It looks like Dave has re-registered on this site. This seller is Dave Jones, who has a bad reputation in the industry. He had a good gig buying and selling longarms and doing deliveries/set/up between buyers and sellers. But several deals went sour and caused a loss of reputation for him. Be very careful and make sure you pay AFTER delivery and not before.

I agree with Jim.  If you tear a top stop and see if the customer has any of the same fabric for you replace the damaged piece with.  Consider supplying the label for the backside of that other one.  We’ve also offered the quilting at no charge even when we have made the above repairs and have always gotten paid anyways.  Be honest with your customers and most will be more than fair with you.  
 
Nigel

Yes.  You should be able to use any size needle in the same class just like you do in your domestic machine.  When I had machines I successfully used needles from 3.0 up to 4.5 without making any changes to my machines.  I think the problems usually come in when going to a significantly smaller needle because they flex easier and may require the timing to be set up so the needle kisses the hook a little harder.  That is why APQS will tell you to stay within one size up or down from 4.0.
Nigel