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Gail O

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Everything posted by Gail O

  1. Is it just the light or the stitch regulator? If your stitch regulator is still working, it might just be the bulb.
  2. The adhesive is only going to hold the two separately quilted layers together for a short time; then the only thing holding them together will be the binding. The added stress on the binding will shorten it's lifespan as well. You would be better off to make two quilts. Not sure why you want to do this.
  3. Double sided carpet tape works. For added security cover the edge with duct tape after you get the leaders straightly secured with the double sided tape. Just make sure you remove the old adhesive, and use the weld line as your straight line across the rails. Removing the old adhesive takes some effort.
  4. Make sure when you are checking if it's level, that you check horizontally and vertically on the table.
  5. Dawn dish detergent to remove the stain. No ideas about where the grease came from.
  6. If you're working from the front of the machine, the post on the top holds scissors. A piece of batting slipped over the post first, keeps them from rattling, and you can stick a needle in there too.
  7. Double batting will give you more depth to lock the stitches. When the quilt is off the machine it will relax.
  8. You might have a problem with tension and stitches not having enough depth to properly lock, if you quilt it on a longarm. It would probably be best to use your dsm to quilt. Why you don't want to use batting?
  9. Can you get the seller to give you the serial # of the machine or the year it was manufactured. APQS can give you an estimated value of the machine, so that you could determine if the price is appropriate. You can add a computer guided system later if you choose. There is a learning curve with either free-hand or computer guided, so don't expect to be offering services within a couple of weeks.
  10. Do you have the any of those white plastic clips (can't remember their technical name) used to hold down your quilt on the belly bar when you float a quilt? If the quilt on the frame is not taking up the entire space, you can make a small sandwich of scraps (make sure the piece is long enough to go from the belly bar to the take-up roller) and scraps of the same batting that you are using in the current quilt; go over to the far left or right side of your mounted quilt, affix the scrap sandwich to the bars and do your test stitching. Just remember to remove it before you go back to your quilt because the first time you roll, those clips will fire off in multiple directions. Clear as mud?
  11. On either side of the quilt where you have the extra 4-6 inches (or maybe 2-4inches) of batting and backing. Just lay a piece of cotton on top and test your stitches; just make sure that it's not too close to the quilt. It will all be cut off when the quilt is trimmed.
  12. You could try using a smaller needle. I'm guessing that the batik fabric was not washed, prior to using in the quilt. Heavy dyes and tightly woven fabric, make it a bit harder for the needle to go between the fibers, so it's kinda punching through.
  13. Check for any burrs in the hole of your needle plate or on any of your thread guides. Just run a small piece of pantyhose along your thread path and see if it catches anywhere. What type of thread are you using? Cotton thread doesn't always play well with fleece. Also make sure that your quilt is not stretched too tight on the frame.
  14. I use Quickbooks Pro - desktop version. It's a download version (as opposed to the on-line/cloud) that costs approx $280. I update to the newest version every two or three years. You can track your inventory, but have to set it up and input all the details. The work to initially set up inventory, suppliers, fees etc. is a bit onerous; but once it's done, works like a charm. I'm not sure what additional capabilities the monthly fee version gives you. I previously had MQMB, but my accountant hated it.
  15. Absolutely gorgeous! Love the sheep.
  16. I wouldn't advise washing a top only, unless you plan to do it by hand. Even then, the chances of some pieces fraying enough to make the seams unstable is pretty good.
  17. Check that your left/right encoder wheel is making contact. The manual will tell you which one is for front/back and/or left/right.
  18. I think all machines come with a foot suitable for ruler work - at least 1/4 inch tall, so that a ruler can rest against the foot. The older machines (mine is a 2009) have a foot that is not a true 1/4 inch all the way around. The back of the foot has a weld that makes that measurement greater than 1/4 inch from the needle. The newer model machines have the ability to change feet.
  19. There is one listed for sale in Ottawa; Mara Z, Dec 11
  20. Check the APQS store; the various feet are listed there under optional access.
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