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Everything posted by redhotmama

  1. Thank you Jim. Clean with alcohol, I assume? I had edited that post but it didn't complete. Can you also tell me how to fix my thread sensor adjustment. It has started beeping allot and I've tried various amounts of wrapping around the wheel. That, coupled with the intermittent beep that I've never actually figured out - it is all annoying.
  2. The laser light on the panto side flickers and is very easily turned off. I gently tap and rotate the cable to get it to come back on. Usually stays on while running the machine, but now I'm having trouble with that. Has the light failed and I should replace it? Thanks in advance,
  3. Thank you, Cagey! I didn't get notified of your reply. I think you're right about gradual increase in needle. I get panicky. Also I have slowed way down, loosened needle thread tension and lengthened the stitch. It's going much better. I have a second quilt to do for thIs lady; I'm going to try a different thread than the Innovatech (first time use for me). I also prewashed her wide back hoping it would improve the 'hand' of the fabric. I'm nursing the machine thru these two quilts; it worked beautifully the day before I started this one. Hoping it is bad thread and bad fabric. Because most off my troubled is moving right to left, I fear I need to replace the encoder wheel. How hard is that?
  4. I put in a 5,0 needle and turned it about 2 minutes to the right of center because that's worked for me before. The top and backing fabrics are cheap Joann's. Everytime I have stitch quality issues it is cheap or stabilized knit fabrics. I wish I could find a tutorial to help me understand what is happening. A $20000 set up shouldn't be so finicky about fabric quality? Should it?
  5. I am having problems with random skipped stitches, loose stitches and thread breakage on top. Needle is new 3.5. thread on top is Innovatech, bobbin is Deco Bob. Ideas?
  6. After winding new bobbin I began having trouble. Needle breaks, needle thread fraying, bobbin thread breaks; threads are so fine 50 in needle and bottom line in bobbin. After tweaking tension it is sewing better but is making a popping or hitting sound when I pull the machine towards me. I've quit for the night and am worried it's going to break another needle. It is better if I slow down, but is dense quilting I'm doing. Also, I am in manual mode. I have an appointment for maintenance next week but hate to not work for six days.... Any ideas? I know I should do my own maintenance but who has time to learn another thing? I be too busy learning creative stuff! TIA!
  7. Title says it all. Tried to call APQS but only got voicemail.
  8. RunningThreads, are there videos for adjusting the hook and finger? TIA, Bobbie Z
  9. Well folks, I'm having trouble again. I think I've solved it but don't really understand why it is so hard to work with cotton threads. Maybe I've just been lucky. I am quilting more lately. I'm working on a series of memory quilts for a family. Using YLI in the needle and king Tut in the bobbin now. I checked at the start and everything looks good. But about third of 2 way through the quilt I noticed some looseness in some top stitches, and took better look. Periodically I was getting ladders underneath. Not all the time. And it got worse the farther into the quilt I was. I'm just doing meander so this didn't take long. I changed the needle. Still trouble. Ripped out what I had to; changed the bobbin thread to fine smooth polyester. Changed the path to help the thicker thread have less drag. (Reading lots of threads here looking for clues). Put some scraps on the machine and tested lots of loops and swirls. No problems so I'm back quilting on the job again. I'm beginning to hate cotton. Was part of the problem using two cotton threads?
  10. Bobbie Z

    Free motion dancing on Millie with Bliss and Glide

  11. Thank you Zeke and ffq-lar for your comforting replies! I thought something was wrong with me. It is too bad because I like the thick cotton look of King Tut when I don't want a shiny top thread, and I love variegated most of the time. ffq-lar, I need to get educated to understand your guidance on moving the hook finger. Is that info in my manual? Thanks so much. I didn't select the reply notification so it took me a few days to check back.
  12. I just finished a quilt that I fought all the way through. King Tut on top, So Fine in bobbin. Everyonce in a while the needle thread would either break or, oddly, break and skip about five stitches on top and then stitch again just fine. Sometimes I didn't notice it and so finding those breaks and fixing them neatly was a real pain. I tried changing the thread path on both three hole guides, and going to a 4.5 needle from a 4.0 after reading various threads here. I'm either needing a comprehensive guide to King Tut or I'm going to give up on King Tut in the needle. I can sew with Rainbows just fine but the thicker cotton gives me fits. Thanks in advance, and I am blessed by these forums often.
  13. Do you folks do the meander because the machine doesn't like screen printed areas? Tia. Bobbie Z
  14. Busy Quilting (Lyn), you mentioned in an earlier post here that you use your vertical cone holder for everything. I have a few spools that I need to use, particularly Rainbows thread. The thread is snagging on apparently nothing at all and then the thread breaks. I can't figure out what the thread is snagging on and am ready to resort to the horizontal spool holder, which I haven't installed on my new Millie. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance., Bobbie Z
  15. Cagey and Zora, much much better. Thank you again! If I had a smaller needle, I bet it would be gone. Hope I can help somebody else sometime!
  16. Oh thank you both so very much! I think all of your comments are in the zone! I have one package of 3.5 needles, will try that and some white Bottom Line on the top. If that doesn't work I'll change the threads to a darker blue. When I assumed the colorful parts of the quilt my top thread was Rainbows abs i had none of this then. My batting is QD cotton/poly so that should be OK. I think the main problem lies in that this minkee has fiber tufts on the back of it. I've not seen that before. I'm starting to see much different quality in minkee than I used to. I use minkee for baby and cuddle quilts. This one is a wedding/cuddle quilt.
  17. Don't judge me, but I'm doing a quilt with lots of color amid white piecing. I've done all the color. I wanted to quilt the white with white top and bottom thread. The back of the quilt is dark blue minkee. Some of the blue is showing through up in the top holes, looks like blue tufts. Is it my tension? Or should I not do the white thread? I've done minkee alot and never had a problem before. Top thread I'm using is King Tut, I also tried So Fine. Bottom thread is So Fine.
  18. Thank you, Heidi. I'm trying to keep the "framework" small because my space is tight for moving around the machine. Wish I had a 30 x 40' shop; that might do it!
  19. Has anyone installed a lift that they didn't buy from APQS? I bought a lift directly from Suspa, but am now trying to create brackets to attach to the table. Has anyone else created their own installation brackets? Thanks for any help,
  20. I upgraded my 5 year old Millie with the new white one, Bliss, Glide and I am in love! It moves like a dream, and the stitch quality even better than it was before. I just did my first panto since the change, and I notice an occasional, not regular, single beep, and I don't know what that is. Also, I can't get the bobbin sensor to work. I hadn't paid attention before because I was on the free motion side. Is it because I'm using Superior Rainbows (slippery) thread in the needle? I wrapped it once, twice, three and four times around the upper thread sensor. Appreciate any insights, thank you so much. Bobbie
  21. Thank you, Micajah - I think you are right. I went back and puzzled over it with my associate (quilting daughter who lives at home) and we remembered two things. I always float my tops, and on big quilts like this it gives me fits every time. Secondly, the top design has rows every l0" with tiny (l") sashing. I'm going to do my sashing quilting, across the rows, from the top to the bottom of the quilt. We undid the basting and pinned the top to the top roller. Then, after doing all the sideways rows, perhaps I should do the up and down ones? And then do my quilting in the squares? I have a way to travel, so I won't have to stop and start. I've had my machine 5 years, but my quilting is often in spurts, and I have relearn all my tricks over and over. I appreciate your help. I thought basting was the way to go since I like floating the tops.
  22. This is a large quilt, 108 x 120 on 12' millie. Back is a wide back, with "leaders" sewn to the edge so I can quilt right up to the edge of the 108" wide back. I'll have to trim it down after it is all done, but that's ok because the final border on the top is 8" wide. The fabric was torn at the quilt store; I pinned it to zippers and put it on and could tell it wasn't going to be flat. Took it off and very carefully (with help) smoothed and squared up both ends. Pinned it back to the zippers and zipped it onto the machine. Looked nice and flat. Added batting (Q Dream poly/cotton) and the top, and basted it on all 4 sides. Now as I check underneath there is all kinds of fullness in the back and looseness in the batting (I can see folds on the bottom feeder roller). First of all I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, and secondly, how do I fix it? I've already quilted one sashing line across most of the width of the quilt, after the first border. Should I roll it back and forth a few times? I'm wondering if I stretched the top too tight trying to keep it straight (I baste with the channel locks on)? It just seems like I can't get the backs taut enough. I know it shouldn't be like a banjo, but it really droops. I'm just about to get my upgraded millie with bliss and glide - and my machine/table is 5 years old in a dry climate. No matter what I do to the hand brake, the sandwich "relaxes" and I have to continuously tighten it up. One other thing that I wonder - I sewed those leaders to the selvedges and didn't trim them after. Could that have something to do with it? I tried not to stretch the leaders. There, that's all the info I have. Any body with ideas? Thanks in advance - Bobbie
  23. I rofling (rolling on floor, laugh ing) at the "frog" explanation - because I didn't know the answer either. I'm having the same problem, and as I zipped my take up and backing leaders together, I discovered the leaders are only taut on one edge, and there is probably 3" of sag on the other side. So I "frogged" my zippers and am going to try Angela Huffman's tips on re-applying my zippers, and leader grips as well. wish me luck, ladies . . .
  24. Regarding use of zippers and leader grips - I'm going to try to keep flexible options. I have the zippers sewn to my Millie leaders. Folded the zipper edge over to make a casing for the leader grips (and by the way, I really like the other options instead of fitting the dowels in their little sleeves and heating them). This way I can use either the leader grips, or the zippers. My friend is finding that on long quilts the leader grip "bump" gets too bulky, so she is using them on shorter quilts, table runners, etc. So nice and fast! My big problem is that in doing all of this my leaders are now not even and taut all the way across. So I did something wrong, and need to redo/recheck them. Rats. I'd rather just be quilting . . .
  25. I didn't think to use a thread net on the bobbin winder cone - I've used it on the Millie, especially when using Rainbows. I'm not familiar with Metro thread. Any suggestions for metalic thread? I've considered using Sewers Aid, but am afraid of problems when the thread gets down past where the Aid has penetrated.