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John Mitchell

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Everything posted by John Mitchell

  1. We used a non S/R machine for 7 years. Janet and Mary do not use the S.R on our Millies all the time. It is just not cost effective to retrofit a APQS machine with a S/R. Too much wiring and electronics to install on a older machine to make is cost effective. You would have the same problem as installing an aftermarket S./R but it would be much more expensive. Do you need a S/R? No! are they nice, Yes. Do you need power windows in you car? Would you buy a new car without them? John
  2. We do carry the encoder wheels. For all orders we only charge cost of parts plus actual shipping (normally USPS first class parcel post) costs. No packing or handling. We normally have a $10 minimum order. Without this the shipping envelope becomes a major factor in our costs. We do accept MC and Visa or check. Hope this helps, John
  3. Dib: I do not have any experience with the plastic ones. They should have less mass but my first thought that they would not be as durable as the metal ones. As soon as I get my new shipment of bobbins in I will be running a special on metal bobbins and bobbin cases. I'll put it on our website and probably post the sale on the Forum. John
  4. PJ; What I meant to say is this; when you add the cost of an aftermarket stitch regulator to an older machine you may get much more invested that it will ever be worth. If you paid $4,000 for you machine and then added an after market S/R for $3,000 you would have $7,000 invested in a machine that is several years old and is no longer manufactured, I would be even more leery of putting this in an Ult II because of its size and lack of a hopping foot. The APQS stitch regulator is superior to any aftermarket S/R. When these ULT I’s and II‘s come back to the factory the first thing they do is
  5. This issue has been discussed several times on this forum. Search for bobbins for the threads. The aluminum bobbins weight less so they have less mass. They should stop spinning easier than steel because of that. .Physics tells us they should be superior to the steel ones but in practice we do not see the difference. We have been using steel ones since 1996 with good results. At this time I only stock and sell the steel ones but that may change. I just ordered a few hundred to stock for sale.
  6. Terri: Your machine was probably made in 1990. In 1991 the year starts with S/N 400. I would be leery of putting a lot of money in an ULT II putting a stitch regulator in it. You can buy a new Lenni (with an APQS stitch regulator) now for $8,900. We have used ones at times for less that that. The aftermarket stitch regulators do not compare with the APQS ones. John
  7. Time it just like any other machine. The needle bar position may be different but Prodigy should be able to provide timing instructions. I have worked on many brands but never a Prodigy. I now only work on Nolting and APQS. I do not carry parts or metric tools for the Taiwan made Gammill although I get many calls to work on them (I do help the owners on the telephone). I think $200/HR is very excessive. I do not work on DSM's and have followed up domestic tech that tried to time a long arm. The DSM's run slower and the timing is not as critical. I have an agreement with the local
  8. Actually the tension changes as the diameter of the thread on the bobbin changes. This is why a "L" bobbin has less change in tension than a "M" bobbin. It is simple physics. Yes a bobbin case can be damaged by a drop on a had surface and you might not be able to see the damage. I believe the little spring that the thread passes through as it exits the bobbin case will degrade over usage. I have had machines that changing the bobbin case will fix problems but the bobbin case looked fine. At $9.95 it is a good idea to have a spare. Some quilters have a bobbin case set for different th
  9. If you are a IMQA member and have your back issues of On Track magazine I wrote two articles about tension. If you have these issues they will answer your questions I believe. Here is a link to the IMQA website. http://imqa.org/IMQAHome.htm Bobbins Cases can wear out, but it takes a lot of usage. John
  10. Jan: I replied to you via email. John
  11. The George is just a modified Discovery. The same size head as the Liberty and the Lenni. John
  12. Molex pins require a special tool. A regular crimper will not work properly. If you can not find one let me know I have several of them. Most of mine are Molex brand. John
  13. I don't know who your CQ dealer is or who set it up, but here goes. Just tighten the clamp using an Allen wrench I think is is 5/64 or 3/64 but just tighten the clamp. It should not damage the coating on the cable and if it is damaged it will not do any harm. the X-axis cable will stretch a little over time. Just use adjuster on the end of the table for correct tension. The Y cable seldom needs adjusting. John
  14. Use sewing machine oil as recommended by your Machine company. That is why it is called sewing machine oil. Firearms do not operate at high speeds. On my firearms I use Militec-1 but I do not use it on sewing machines. John
  15. Renee: We'll be thinking of you all and remembering you in our prayers. John
  16. Tie wraps are almost as great as duct tape. If you don't like the location you can easily move it. When I put the switch on I crisscross the tie wraps and use the holes in the switch housing. I also use tie wraps to install the power strip on the torsion bar on the back of the table. It is in a great location and up off the floor. it give you several protected A/C outlets that way. You then only need one wire run to the wall outlet. John
  17. I generally attach the switch on the round bar that has the Velcro on it. I attach with two big tie wraps. We also have a wireless remote control that uses a key fob (just like in you car) for operating the lift. We have them on both of our machines and we leave it on the laser light mount on the front of the machine. Our clients that have the remote really like it. If you would like more information just email or call us. John
  18. Just a couple of comment on the bobbins. The "M" bobbin does not hold twice the thread of the "L" it is about 180%. See this link to Superior Thread for comparisons. http://www.superiorthreads.com/education/467/ The "L" bobbin is the standard bobbin for high speed sewing machines and embroidery machines. If the “M” was superior don’t you think the embroidery machines would use it? It is a matter of physics. The hook has to make two revolutions to make each stitch. With the “M” the hooks move further distance for each stitch. At slower speeds this is not an issue but crank the speed
  19. I have corrected my previous post. The drive will only go on the right side (from the front). I must have been asleep at the switch. I have installed over a hundred of them but I had a senior moment on the keyboard this time. John
  20. It just fits inside the frame. It was in two pieces. John
  21. The drive will only fit on the Right side. John
  22. I just assembled a Lenni with the one piece table and the black top, No holes. John
  23. You probably need to get the air bubbles out of the gearbox and repack the gearbox. John
  24. The APQS Techs at the factory use a small 2 gal compressor. We have a couple of them (Campbell Hausfeld) here at Country Lane Quilting and have used them for yours. They will not cause a problem. A small tank is nice because it will not have to run all the time. John
  25. You local dealer can help you with a table purchase. John
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