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John Mitchell

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Everything posted by John Mitchell

  1. You are correct the server has been down a while and came up this morning. John
  2. Shirley: Does the moving blade hit the end of the two little cutting blades or does it go above the top of the top blade? You adjust the little brass screws to adjust the clearance between the two cutting blades. The screws have wave washers on them to allow you to make the adjustments. There is no need to remove th plastic cover. To adjust your thread cutter loosen the screws the same # of turns you can then put pressure on the blade behind the screws you then tighten the screws the same # of turns until the movable blade enters between the two cutting blades. If this is not clear g
  3. Lisa; You can buy replacement fuses at Radio Shack p/n 270-1068. The first one I changed I couldn't get the little drawer back in. I then discovered one corner had a bevel and the drawer only goes in 1 way. I should have had my 4 year old granddaugher put it in for me. John
  4. The power take up does not use a brake on the leveling and take up roller. Only one is used on the top and backing rollers. I only know one quilter using one on the take up and leveling rollers for some specialized quilting she was doing. John
  5. I would suggest you call Mark tomorrow. There is a switch in the TC housing that could be causing your issue or a relay in the back under the rear cover might be defective. The lights on mean that it should work. I assume that you have tried the button on the back handle. Let us know what you find. John
  6. Look at the lights on the left bank of lights and tell me if the 3rd and the 5th are on. The needle has to be in the up position and locked for the thread cutter to work. John
  7. Barb; I'm confused as to where your Velcro is located. Do you have the old square table or the new one? I have set up many machines ( We have 5 tables here at Country Lane including one with square legs) and can not think of where you are talking about. If you stop in Carroll you will have to talk to Mark or Mike. Connie is no longer working for APQS. John
  8. Hi Barb: If you are talking about the Velcro on the black brake block (BBB). Mark from the factory suggests that you remove the old Velcro. Clean the glue off. Glue on new Velcro and staple it on. On the Millie the only brake is on the top and backing rollers. John
  9. I wouldn't expect the gearbox to be a problem. I think the advice about the needleplate is very good. The hook assembly rattles when it needs oil, although this does not sound like you describe. Mark at the factory may have some more ideas. John
  10. Hi Alice; The gearbox problem is more of a growl. I think the rear top cover is hitting the sides of the machine. Put your hand on the cover while running and see if the noise stops. This cover gets pushed down by someone laying their arm on top of the machine. To correct loosen the six screws and pull the cover up slightly. You can view from the back and make sure it is not hitting. Then tighten the screws (girl tight) and you are good to go. This is a problem that I have encountered many times. Let us know if this fixes your problem. John
  11. Trudy: Off the top of my head the things I would check are behind the front cover (with the speed meter). UNPLUG MACHINE POWER BEFORE PROCEEDING.........Remove the 4 screws and pull the cover forward. Behind the cover is a florescent light starter in a socket. Check the wiring on the socket for anything unusual. Remove the starter by twisting. Take your old starter to Home Depot or a hardware store and tell to give you one of these. I have never had one fail like this before. I have left a message at the factory to verify my diagnosis and if it is not correct I will repost. John
  12. To remove the bulb just rotate it (just like the big fixtures). Wal-Mart did have the black lights and Home Depot and Lowes carry the regular bulbs at about $5.00. They may also have the black light. There is nothing special about the bulb and in a pinch you can take the bulb out of the scanner on your computer, most of them use the same bulb. Good Luck, John
  13. Mary Beth; Do not adjust the screw in the little handle on the switch. The screw is just a way to operate the switch. I was talking about the dohicky (technical term:P:P) that you wrap the thread around on the underside there is a adjustment screw to slide the bracket in and out. Adjust this bracket in or out to wind level. John
  14. Mary Beth: I assume this is a Millie. The thread guide with the little roller (on the underside of the throat) probably needs to be adjusted. There is a screw in the bracket and the bracket is slotted so you can move it in and out. This controls how the bobbing winds. If you need personal help contact me at 816-350-2002. John
  15. Hi Gail: You are correct on all counts. If you purchase a used Machine (including a Green Millennium) through APQS (I would suggest you purchase through you local dealer) you receive the 1-year warrantee and the free beginners lesson. You can take that lesson from your local dealer or travel to Des Moines to visit Dawn. Jean Coleman is in Detroit and DeLoa Jones is in South Haven either one of these dealers can give you personalized service. Click "find a dealer" on the home page and click on MI for contact information. Financing options are available from a national bank (we arrange f
  16. Shawanna: To answer you question about warrantee on a used machine. Machines purchased from anyone other than the factory will not have a warrantee. In other words the warrantee is not transferable. That said, keep in mind that you are saving a lot of money and if you need repair it still might save you money even if you had to pay for minor repairs... Normally if a machine is going to have a problem (rare but not unknown) it will show up early in the machines life, so most used machines have been broke in and run smooth. They are a machine just like your car and require care and regu
  17. You can buy one at the hardware store but the head would be the same. The length that is used is a little harder to find. I'm not aware of one with a larger head. If it would help you can move it to the right side of the needle bar.
  18. The MR 4.0 does not flex as much as the smaller needles and many quilters tend to overdrive their machine. Sometimes this causes issues with flexing the needle into the hook. We use MR 3.5 needles here at Country Lane about 99% of the time. With the machine timed to a 4.0 you can easily go up or down .5. John
  19. I have converted a ULT I for front laser. I don't know why you couldn't do the same on a ULT II. I had to drill and tap the head for the front post and make up a extension power cable and front post. The client was very happy with the converson. John
  20. Hi Julie; This issue has been addresed many times and is on Connie's top 10. Check out Connie's (The Expert A#! Tech.) advice at http://www.apqs.com/quiltingmachinerails.htm To read more hit the search button above and put in rails, waxing rails, cleaning rails, etc. PS: We have 4 tables with another on the way and we never wax them. Janet or Mary wipes them down with a piece of batting regularly. John
  21. Hi Tinkerbell: Don't be alarmed. (After rereading your post I would try rocking the flywheel and dislodging the broken piece.) Most times I encounter this I am able to rock the hook assembly back and forth and the broken piece will fall out. You might want to release the Hook retaining finger and rock the hook with your hand. I would first try rocking the flywheel back and forth first. Sometimes when I can see the broken piece I can take needle nosed pliers, or hemostats and pull the broken piece out. You might be able to dislodge it with a screwdriver or scratch awl. The worst
  22. Great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Now its time to be "Gone Quilting". John
  23. I can't think of why you would have this issue without the SR engaged. Does the single stitch/needle positioner work normally? I don't understand what you mean about the rotation where the problem occurs. I assume you have checked the bobbin area for thread wrapped around the shaft or hook assembly. I'll give this some thought. It should be apparent what the problem is. John
  24. Hi Cynthia: Did you take the left side plate (when viewed from the front) and remove all the thread? It sounds like you have not removed all the thread. Does the machine turn over easily by hand using the flywheel? The flywheel can suck in a lot of thread in just a few seconds. There is a cover made by Hartley that solves this issue. If you would like one we stock them at $15.00 including shipping. Good Luck, John
  25. Hi Julie Welcome: As a sales/service technician most of the issues I see are caused by the quilter not the machine. We all make mistakes and sometimes these cause issues with the machine. All that said they are machines and even the finest will occasionally have a problem but not often. I can't think of any design quality issues. I would suggest that you find your local dealer and drop by and visit. The dealers can give you the personal attention that you need to have your questions answered. Click on home and find a dealer by clicking on your state. Good luck, John
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