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John Mitchell

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Everything posted by John Mitchell

  1. Pam: We have several clients in Oklahoma that have purchased Millenniums through Country Lane. If you would email us your contact information we might be able to put you in contact with one of them. countrylanequilting@mail.com John
  2. The cost of George is $7,900. John
  3. There are several reasons to use an "L" bobbin. Cost is just one of them. As I do a lot of service/repair of different brands of LA's I have worked on machines that use the "M" bobbin. The "L" is the industry standard for high-speed sewing machines. This issue is addressed on the APQS web site. I'll give you a couple of links. The first one is APQS advantages and # 4 addresses the bobbin. http://www.apqs.com/advantages.htm Or the link directly to smart bobbin page is: http://www.apqs.com/comparebobbin.htm Hopes this helps. If you will contact the APQS dealer nearest you they
  4. Hi: It appears that the finger (black piece of metal that goes in the slot in the front of the bobbin case). If the bobbin case is not held in the correct position the needle will hit. Here is how to fix this issue. In the front of the machine in the hook assembly area you will find a Phillips screw (holds the finger in place) If you will loosen this screw, rotate the bobbin basket until the notch lines up with the finger, move (slide) the finger into this slot about 1/3 way, tighten the screw, this will keep the bobbin case from spinning. Now turn the machine over by hand and make sure
  5. It is made to wind standard "L" bobbins used with APQS machines and most high speed sewing machines. I don't believe it can be adjusted to wind "M" bobbins. But I'm not absolutely sure. I would give it a try but we stock "M" bobbin cases not "M" bobbins John
  6. You would use the other spool holder when you want to use two threads. It goes up and over the head. John
  7. Judy: I made the previous post from Janet's computer and forgot to log her out. I'm sure she welcomes you also. John: :D
  8. Welcome Mal: Adding to Mark's post. The timing and hook spacing seldom is the problem. Due to the design of our machines (belt drive instead of gear drive) they do not just get out of time. Many machines have been in service for years without needing retiming. Timing problems generally are caused by operator errors. Sewing over pins, scissors, not installing the needle properly etc. John
  9. Teresa: I have sent you a email that might be of help to you. John
  10. Hi: I'll answer this for the factory. The vendor that provided the meters (analog with the pointer) discontinued manufacturing that meter. The current meter (Liquid Crystal with pointer) is the replacement meter. The function is the same. Our Millie has the early meter and we love it. It is great for "senior" eyes. Our Liberty has the new meter. Mary and Janet have become used to it. It is not something you have to look at all the time. Hope this answers your question. John
  11. I'm assuming you have the bobbin winder on the wooden base. There is a slot in the shaft that puts tension on the bobbin. If this is the case the bobbin starts slipping as it gets full. Take a screwdriver and put it in the slot and pry it open a bit this will put more tension on the bobbin. I believe the Turbo has a spring on the shaft. Pry the spring out to increase tension on the bobbin. John
  12. Ann: Interesting problem. I talked to Mary and Janet and they suggested a few things to check. If you are running at a slow speed it is very easy to over run the machine. If you do this it sometimes will bend the needle. Check your speed (maybe slow down) and check the needle. Does the machine run ok at standard speeds and with the stitch regulator engaged? Keep me posted I'm interested in the outcome of your issue. John
  13. Ann: It is possible that you have thread inside your machine. If you do not have a flywheel cover some times when the thread breaks it sucks thread in the machine. To check remove the left cover (when standing at the freehand or front of your machine). Look inside and you will probably see thread wrapped around the shaft. Remove this thread using whatever works for you. (exacto knife, tweezers, hemostats, etc.). If this is an ongoing problem you might want to install a Hartley Flywheel cover or make one of you own with some plastic. We used to use 2 strips of Velcro along the flywheel
  14. Jill: Sometimes the cap will come loose when hit while cleaning. It is not a big issue. They were made for ages without the black cap. Feel free to call or email directly if you need help. Have a safe trip. John
  15. To replace this black cap do the following. Clean all the grease off of the cap and around the shaft that the cover goes over. Use a Q-tip and alcohol or any thing that works for you. It just needs to be clean. Take a drop of super glue and cover the edge of the cap, then snap over the shaft. I have put many of these on the earlier machines and they will normally stay on OK. If you encounter any challenges, call or email me and I'll walk you through it. Good Luck, John
  16. Your bobbin is a standard "L" size. Commonly found on most commercial sewing machines. We like and use the steel ones with holes in one side. They should be about 50 cents each. That is what we charge for them. John
  17. Michele: You didn't say where you are located but you can find a dealer near you at http://apqs.com/demo1.htm any of us would be able to answer your questions and arrange a test drive of the APQS machines. Good Luck John
  18. Country Lane has been using a Campbell Hausfeld air compressor model FP2048 for some years now. They are normally about $89 but I found one at Harbor Freight for $29 on close out. Harbor Freight price is now $99. Wal Mart did carry them also. I would recommend a compressor with a 1 or 2 gal tank. This way you can turn it on and it will pump up and stop and you will have plenty of air. Here is a link to the Campbell Hausfeld FP2048. I don't know anything about this company but you can see what the compressor looks like. http://aircompressorsdirect.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_
  19. I'll attempt to answer a few of your questions. The pigtails (these are the last two thread guides before the needle) need to be changed when they are worn. The thread will eventually wear a groove in the guide and it will cut the thread. Replacement depends on how much and what kind of thread is pulled thought. Monofilament will wear the guides faster that other threads. You can turn them over in a pinch but they are cheap (If I remember right $1.30 each). The needle bar set screw can be installed on the other side (the needle bar is threaded all the way through). It is placed on th
  20. Connie: They might have a spare but they don't normally have parts for sale. I'll send you a email that might help. John
  21. You can go to the local hardware store and get a 4-40 screw as short as possible. (It will probably be longer than you want.) You can cut it off if you have a wire stripper that has a thread cutter on it. Just clean up the end that goes against the needle with a file. This will get you by and you would not need to cut is off for temporary use. When you install it do not force it if it does not screw in easily (It may have a burr or other problem). You should order some extra screws from APQS they are only 50 cents each. You probably should get a couple of the pigtail guides for spares $1
  22. Dawn: Please email me so I can reply. Thanks, John
  23. housenextdoor: If you will email me your email address I'll get back to you. You have u2u turned off and no email listed. Ferett: You might try taking a small screwdriver and bending the spring on the shaft out a little. We wind these bobbins everyday. We only use steel bobbins with the holes. The Millie is the only machine that does not come with a stand alone bobbin winder since it is built in. Thanks everyone, John l
  24. Angie: I will reply to you personally but I'll try to attach photos to this reply. John
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