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John Mitchell

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Everything posted by John Mitchell

  1. Grace: One of the challenges using the Groz-Beckert needles is that the scarf is not near as pronounced as the scarf on the Singer MR needles. This requires that the hook timing and spacing be closer. You will find that the MR needles will give fewer skipped stitches. The machine ideally would be set up using the needle that you plan to use. You generally can go +,- .5 without a problem. I had a client with a Millie set up with a MR 4.0 install a Groz-Becket 5.0 and over drove the machine and broke the needle in the hook assembly and broke the finger. Not a good situation. APQS machi
  2. Pat: It does not have a speed adjustment. The Turbo winder is the current winder delivered with the Freedom, Liberty and Discovery. John
  3. I have sent you pricing along with pictures via email. If you need any more information just let us know.
  4. APQS has a new stand-alone bobbin winder called the Turbo (it is fast). It is available thru your local dealer or APQS. If you would like a picture or more information contact us. We have the bobbin winder in stock and offer free shipping on accessories and supplies
  5. Which machine do you have? I believe the Ult.I machines all had the laser hard wired.
  6. The Ult. I has a manual channel lock front to back. It is located on the axle on the right side and it just a bolt that screws down and contacts the carriage. You can use pony clamps on the back rail for a horizontal lock
  7. Pam: You have probably checked this but it won't hurt to check. The left toggle switch on the control box is marked Forward and Reverse but the middle position is off. Maybe you had some help from a little one and the switch is in the middle (unmarked position). To function it has to be in forward or reverse. This is how we keep our little grandaughter from operating the motor drive. John
  8. Congratulations: You will be very happy with your Millie and Darlene is great. I know you will also be happy with the after sale help. Merry Christmas John
  9. Mary Beth: I have sent you a U2U that you might find of interest. John
  10. The "Green Millennium" is an Ult. I that has been stripped down and reborn as a Millennium. The machine is rewired and most of the parts are replaced with new parts (The basic housing, shafts that are not worn, etc is used). This machine is a Millennium in every way. The only way to tell the difference is the decal will be "Green" instead of Red. The system will have a new table, with motor drive, all new electronics. The system will have a price of $14,000 and a one-year warrantee. A limited numberr of machines are planned for the initial production run. See this link for more informatio
  11. The cover over the motor sometimes will slide down and rest on the rear cover (with the meter) this can cause a real racket. You can isolate this noise by putting your hand on the on the cover (with the machine just sitting and running) the noise will stop or change. Loosen the screws (3 on each side) and move the cover up until it no longer vibrates against the rear cover. This is not an uncommon issue. Good Luck, John
  12. Probably the broken piece of the needle is hung up in the hook assembly. You then blew the fuse. You will have to free the machine up before replacing the fuse. Sometimes you can see the broken piece and get it out with a hemostat or needle nose pliers. If you are unable to remove the broken piece you will have to remove the finger (at this point you should be able to turn the machine over with the wheel and look for the broken needle) and the hook assembly and take the hook assembly apart. (the little screws hold it together). The machine will need to be retimed and the finger adjust
  13. Connie came through as usual. She is the world expert on Tech. issues. I try to help on weekends when Connie gets a short break. I know she is swamped with her workload. She has to have some time with her family. Thanks again as usual Connie. Have a great day. John
  14. Generally timing issues do not cause loopies. The only time I have to time a machine is when the operator has caused it to go out of time, sewing over a thick area, hitting a template, scissors, catching something in the hook assembly, etc. Did you move the finger that holds the bobbin basket closer to the hook assembly? It should only be about ? way in the slot. I believe this adjustment is covered in you manual. Hope this is of some help. John
  15. Rather than try to troubleshoot your problem with so little information you might try this link. http://www.apqs.com/quiltingmachinehelp.htm This will take you to Connies top 10 support questions and thread breakage is covered. Hope this helps you.. John
  16. Hi Mary Lou: The Velcro goes beside the slot that the arm protrudes from. Hartley also make a cover for the wheel that totally eliminates this issue. I keep these in stock. Email me for more information. John
  17. Many times a rattle is caused because the hook needs oiling.
  18. Norma: If it is working from the back and you want to work from the front you can move the mushroom handle to the front. Remember to switch sides and put the mushroom on the correct side of the handle. Left from the back goes on the left when viewed from the front. This will work if the switche in the mushroom is defective. You might check the molex connector that attatches to the left side of front of the machine. The wires come out of the handle and connect to the machine with this connector. Disconnet the connector and make sure all the pins and sockets are in the proper position
  19. I have been out of town for a few days and unable to read the chat. Changing the hopping foot does not take long once you have done a few of them. To clean up the burrs I use a strip of abrasive 220 or so first and make a loop over the shaft and run the machine while holding the abasive cloth by both ends. Finish up with 440 or so and the hook assembly will slide right on. This speeds the process up a lot.
  20. Joann: The carriage is not attached to the head. You just remove the little rubber stopper (after removing the take up roller and leveling bar) and slide the machine off. To fit in the box you will need to remove the axles, laser light bar (only on the side not the top, front handles, light bar and rear handles. Package these items in another box or padded bag. The spacers fit the front and rear of the machine and it just slides into the box. Every thing just unscrews or unplugs. If you have a challenge call the factory or call Country Lane Quilting and someone will help you. We are g
  21. Linda: This is a anti-backlash spring. It stops the bobbin from continuing spinning when the machine stops (sort of a brake). You can make one out of a piece of paper cut like a donut and placed in the back of the case. We only stock the case with the spring. Why possible cause a problem with a cheaper bobbin case? Good Job, John
  22. Lynn: You didn't say which area the noise is coming from. I am not sure that the Circle Lord modifications has caused your problem. I am going to make a guess here. I think the top cover is hitting the side of the case. On the cover that covers the motor you will have 3 screws on each side. The back two hold the guides for the thread as it comes off the spool. Loosen these 6 screws a bit and lift the cover (this cover has the led?s in it). Make sure the cover does not hit the case as it can make quite a racket. You can check for this problem by putting you had on the cover and see if
  23. Lynn: You do not say when your machine is making a noise. Is it when you are moving the machine? Does it make a noise just sitting in one place and running? When does the noise occur and under what conditions? Does the noise come from the machine, if so what area of the machine? Does it come from the carriage? How many washers and nuts did you put on the wheels? When you raise the machine you put more stress on the wheel bearings this may be your issue but I need more information to isolate the problem. Let me know. Good Luck, John
  24. Lynn: You do not say when your machine is making a noise. Is it when you are moving the machine? Does it make a noise just sitting in one place and running? When does the noise occur and under what conditions? Does the noise come from the machine, if so what area of the machine? Does it come from the carriage? How many washers and nuts did you put on the wheels? When you raise the machine you put more stress on the wheel bearings this may be your issue but I need more information to isolate the problem. Let me know. Good Luck, John
  25. Needles seem to always cause confusion. We only use MR needles normally 3.5 but sometimes 4.0. the MR needles have a very pronounced scarf. This gives the hook a better chance to pick up the thread. Hook timing has two areas of concern 1st rotation (timing) 2nd proximity to the scarf on the needle (the closer the better). The hook should pass throught the scarf just below the middle of the scarf in the space from the 1/2 way point to about 1/3 way up from the bottom on the scarf this is assuming that the needle bar height is correct. When a machine is timed to a 4.0 it should use a 3.5 t
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