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John Mitchell

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Everything posted by John Mitchell

  1. If you need instructions on adjusting the position and tension of the take up spring just email me and I will send them to you. It's function is to remove the slack caused by the lever. After time the spring will not function correctly, the solution is a new spring. Do not replace the tension assembly @ $15, change the check spring @$2.50. John
  2. There is a huge difference in a professional that has a legitimate business and a part time under-the-radar quilter. No overhead, not paying taxes, insurance, business phone and fax, website, licenses, a CPA and all the trappings of a legitimate business. This is the current environment more people trying to “make a living” and trying to justify breaking the law. When the IRS and the tax people come knocking they should not be surprised. We have a huge capital investment in our business and huge ongoing expenses; however we sleep well at night knowing that we are doing the right thing. J
  3. After you have been quilting for a while and become proficient you can use a MR3.5 needle. We have used them for years. Beginners should stick to MR4.0's for a awhile. A 4.0 needle will have less flex than a 3.5. I have seen newbies break 4.0' when basting many times. John
  4. Maybe the IRS and the State tax people should look into this so called business. If you have a real business and pay taxes this is impossible. I looked at the ad. It only uses a Craig's list email no telephone or other contact. There is a picture of a machine but it is so small it is hard to tell what they are using. John
  5. Slow down and do not move the machine until the needle is up. John
  6. This is a very common problem that I have seen many times especially when basting the sides. When basting take your time and be sure that the needle is in the up position before moving the machine. More than likely you are moving the machine while the needle is down you can flex the needle into the hook and then the needle may be broken. Slow down when basting. It is best when you are a beginner to hold the needle up/down switch to baste. You were very lucky not to knock the machine out of time. John
  7. Hi Monika; Mark and Amy are the real experts. I am assuming you have the Needle Positioner and Single Stitch options. If so I am wondering if the magnets are passing the mag sensors and not stopping the machine when it should. Does it seem to stutter, jerk or operate smoothly? Does the needle move with normal speed? It is kind of late so you best bet might be to call Amy in the morning. We had a Non SR Freedom for several years and it was very trouble free. The lady that bought it is still using it with no problems. I do not have a quick fix on the top of my head right now. John
  8. You don't put the oil on the shelf. It has to be in the groove that the hook assembly and the bobbin basket rotate in. It is best to oil from above. on the little raised area that fits into the bobbin basket groove. This groove is easy to see from the top. This is where the metal meets the metal and it needs oil. John
  9. To add to Mark's great reply. Most every time I hear of a problem with a rattle in the hook assembly it needs to be correctly oiled. John
  10. I still believe my post was good advice to anyone. If you are not dealing with an authorized dealer, Caveat emptor. I made no accusations. Shipping and import duties would price this machine near the price of a new one with a 5 year warrantee. Vania, your best bet is to sell it locally. John
  11. Find the S/N and check with the factory this will tell if is owned by the person who bought it. I would be very, very suspicious. Why is it not listed on Ebay? We had someone try to buy from a client and said they lived in TX but their email showed it was GB I think. End of interest. The IP of the poster can be checked to see where they really are. 2 posts no contact or profile??????????????? Caveat emptor. Check with your local dealer for used certified machines and no surprises. Don't depend on PayPal to protect you, protect yourself. We have a Lenni in Cairo, Egypt. If this owne
  12. Amy as usual was right on. If you were using Singer MR needles you have a very good chance of rocking it with the flywheel and dislodging the broken end. They normally break below the eye. With some luck you did not knock your machine out of time. The instructions that Amy mentioned are great and very visual and easy to follow. One of the issues we see with new quilters is the tendency to over drive their machine especially when basting. The move the machine before the needle is up and flex it into the hook, break the needle and jam the machine. Do not hurry basting until you are very
  13. Are the lights on the machine on? Will the machine turn over using the flywheel? You say you have loosened the wheels. Too loose and the machine will not move correctly. In your manual follow the instructions for adjusting the wheels. You want them up on the radius of the wheel (a sweet spot). If you can not find this information send me an email and I believe I have a file with pictures that should help you. Here are the APQS dealers in the UK: Quilting UK LTD John and Angela Pickering At the rear of 22 Greevegate Hunstanton Norfolk PE36 6 AA United Kingdom 0044 1485 5343
  14. As a Authorized Hartley dealer we sell quite a few Micro Drive handles. We have had them in our studio for years. If you are not going to use them for a while just remove the Phillips screws and leave the mount on the needle bar housing. This way they do not get in your way and can be installed in a few minutes. If you are interested in any Hartley products just contact us. We only charge actual shipping charges and take MC/Visa. John
  15. Jackie Lathem is the volunteer coordinator at MQS this year and she asked me to post that she still has some volunteer opportunities available, you can probably find an area that you would enjoy and also have a great time. Some openings are for Teachers Angels, White Glove, Boutique Booth; these are also other opportunities available. Contact Jackie at volunteer@imqa.org. As many of you know Mary Hibbs (one of the owners of Country Lane Quilting) is the president of IMQA. Mary asked me to remind the Forum that there is still time to get your Quilts entered into the Quilt Show. John
  16. Try putting washers on top of the block with a longer bolt. It will align correctly. The modification you made takes a lot more work. John
  17. All machines (all brands) have a harmonic balance vibration. If when you speed it up, it smooths out you probably do not have a problem. John
  18. I modified a CompuQuilter install for use with a CL. Same issue. I just super glued several washers to the top of the hook up block and bought a new longer bolt with 3 wing nut on top. It aligns correctly and does not contact the cable at an angle. I do not think bending the cable at the angle I see is a good idea. Stan has since offered a longer hook up block. To my knowledge my fabricated one is still in use after 2 years. John
  19. The Millennium uses a plug in cord just like a PC cord but the one on the Millennium has larger wire. The PC cord does not have as high current rating as the cord on a Millennium. The Ult I has a hard wired cord with a ground lug and spade lugs. Different connections.
  20. The coiled cords were on the first Millenniums also. They did not prove very successful. I have changed several to the regular cord. On the ULT I you have to open it up to replace the cord as the cord is not detachable. We stock the straight cord for the Millenniums. John
  21. Your problem is more than likely with the encoder on the machine. This is the x-axis encoder. Something is causing the wheel to slip. Clean the axle wheel with a q-tip and alcohol. Take you finger and turn the encoder wheel on the carriage then turn the one on the machine they both should be tight. If one slips easily use a 7/16 wrench and move the encoder wheel tighter against the axle wheel. The Liberty did not have the same issue as the Millennium and the axles have not been relocated.
  22. Checking for the needle hole is the first thing to do. Then you know if it is a skipped stitch or a long stitch. You did not say which machine you have. On the earlier Millenniums with the front axle towards the middle of the machine this was a common problem. When the quilter was getting tired they would lean on the front handle causing the wheel on the encoder on the machine to lift off the carriage causing a long stitch. We used to tighten the back wheels a little tighter to compensate for this issue. On all machines made in the last 4 years the axles have the soft mounts and the front axle
  23. Here is the challenge with a 12 foot table. When you have a span of 12 you need some tool (Truss Bars) or support to keep the table from sagging. On our regular table starting at 12 feet they come with the truss supports. Otherwise you would have the same issue Gammill has with the table sagging in the middle and you would have to support it someway. Usually they use a board to support the middle of the table. Contact you local dealer for the used machine list, you might find a bargain. john
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