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Everything posted by jimerickson

  1. Caddy: I've had a bobbin camera for several years now, but hardly ever use it. My issue is exactly what you're asking about. What does a perfect stitch look like? About the only thing that the display helps with is loops and birds nests, and I've found feeling the bobbin stitches with my finger tip really tells me more than the camera. When I bought it, thought it would be helpful, but it really hasn't been for me. Jim
  2. Janet: Have you tried the switches on both ends of the machine? If the opposite set work, then you probably need to replace the switches. If not, you'd better call Gammill for help. Jim
  3. ORN: I think Nolting will install an Intellistitch regulator on a Discovery, if that's what you're trying to get. They are expensive, the one on my Ult 2 cost me $3200 back in 2011. If you're just wanting a robotic machine, then if this Discovery has needle positioner, it would be a good candidate. If on the other hand you want a stitch regulated machine for hand guided quilting, you're probably better off looking for a machine that is already regulated, unless you can buy the Discovery really cheap. Jim
  4. ORN: I think the machine must be set up for needle up/needle down, and single stitch in order for the robot to work. I don't know whether the Discovery had the type motor necessary for that, but it's predecessor the Ult 2 didn't. I think Nigel might know because he had an Intelliquilter installed on his Ult 1. I remember him saying that he didn't need to have the intellistitch up grade for the machine, but he did it anyway. Maybe he'll chime in. Jim
  5. Check and see if you have the needle inserted properly. It sounds like you might have it in backwards. Good luck. Jim
  6. Mercedes: I don't think there has been any actual instructions on how do do it. What you'd need to do is go to a local welder/fabricator, explain what you want done, and let them do it. It would involve cutting the rollers to the proper length and re-welding them, cutting the table rails, and the top itself, drilling any new holes necessary to reassemble it. Not too big a job. Jim
  7. Really, probably not. You could try that, but the quilt would be really heavy. I use either wool (expensive), or a heavy poly (inexpensive). I use only Hobbs, and their 12 oz. poly has a lot of loft. Good luck. Jim
  8. Mona: You're probably over lubing the hook. I think once a quilting session is enough. Oiling the wicks seems right. Jim
  9. When I have a quilt with a lot of fullness, I use a high loft batting, and quilt as heavily as necessary to control the fullness. Jim
  10. Sew: Did the motor get hot? If so, you might have the drive belt set too tight. When you press your finger on the belt, it should move about 1/4 inch. If it's tighter than that, loosen it a bit, and try sewing again. Good luck. Jim
  11. Sandy: If you're missing stitches, it's probably timing. It might be presser foot tension. If the foot doesn't put some pressure on the quilt sandwich, you could miss stitches as well. I think APQS used to have manuals you could buy. I have a manual that is full of notations to myself, that might confuse other users. If you can't find one somewhere else, let me know and I'll try and copy mine. There are 24 pages. Some of the drawings did not perfectly match my machine, and that can be confusing as well. I will have to say, the timing photos included in my manual are great. Jim
  12. I bought mine from Quilt tech, and they were specifically for an Ult 2. I don't think Kasa Engineering has made any for Ult 2 for several years. But like I said the Gammill wheels will work. I just checked, and Quilt Tech has Gammill sets listed at $175.00. They are special order because Ray doesn't stock them, but I'll bet he can have them for you in a few days. You can call him and ask about the Ult 2 set, but I don't think he can get you a set of them. BTW, he's happy to talk with anyone interested in his products. Jim
  13. Your machine is just like mine was. The wheels you have on it are the originals. If you looked at my post from Sept 2014, you'd have noted that the ones on my machine now are white polymer ones. Check EdgeRider Wheels listing for Gammill Clasic machines. They'll work on your machine with the addition of some different bolts that you can buy at your local hardware store. Jim
  14. Not those! They're for a Ult 1, completely different from the Ult 2. Jim
  15. If you look at my Sept. 29, 2014 post titled "Ult 2 Table Modifications" and look at the photo of my horizontal channel lock, you can see one of my white Edgerider wheels. That will show you what they look like. Jim
  16. The stock wheels are a narrow, dark brown/grey/black fiber wheel with a groove that rides on the table track. The Edgeriders are a wider (about 3/4") white polymer wheel. Jim
  17. Leah: Give APQS's factory a call. I'm sure someone there can tell you what you need to do. Jim
  18. Actually I think you can get an Intellistitch regulator fitted to your machine. My understanding is that Nolting will do the installation, but I think you have to send the machine to them for the up grade. Call their factory and ask. I have an Ult 2 that I had up graded to Intellistitch, and I love it. I had my installation done by Helen B. back in 2011 when she was still doing it. The first thing I'd do is replace the stock wheels (if it still has them) with some after market ones. I have Edgeriders on mine. I don't think Kasa Engineering is still making a set specifically for the Ult 2 anymore, but a set made for a Gammill Classic will work with the simple replacement of some of the bolts supplied in the Gammill kit. As far as needles go, Gros Beckert MR SAN 11 are the proper ones. Good luck, enjoy your "new" machine. Jim
  19. MEB: Don't turn on your machine until you've removed the needle from the hook, and it turns easily by hand. If you do , you'll just blow the fuses again. Pull the needle with the pliers and rock the hand wheel back and forth until it comes out, and the machine turns free. Jim
  20. If you're machine uses M bobbins, buy some of the bronze colored steel ones, like most Gammill owners use. I've found them to be well made, and reliable. I currently use the extruded aluminum ones and have had no problems with them. Jim
  21. Cindy: Did you follow up on Nigel's video recommendation? If not, do so. The best way I've found to help "index" the beginning of a tension adjustment is to start by tightening up the top tension until it pulls the bottom thread to the top on every stitch. Then begin loosening it until you get a balanced stitch. Really loose top tension can make it look like something else is a problem. It can also lead to "birds nests" and broken thread. Good luck. Jim
  22. See my comments in the Geroge forum where you also posted the question.
  23. Betty: You may be pressing down too hard on the quilt "sandwich" and causing a momentary high bobbin tension as you sew toward yourself. That direction is of course, on of the worst for a lock stitch machine like we all use. See if being a bit more gentle doesn't help. Regards. Jim
  24. So it is the spoon foot, or at least something like it. I guess there's really nothing new these days. Jim