jimerickson

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Everything posted by jimerickson

  1. Peggy: I don't know which winder you have, and I don't have a "official" AQPS winder, but I've had my after market industrial winder stop on me in the past. I solved the problem by removing the motor brushes, blowing the dust out of the motor and de-glaizing the brush surface. If you can get at the motor, you might try that. Jim
  2. Karen: Try tightening up your top tension. Crank it up until the top thread is pulling the bobbin thread to the top, then start loosening it until you get a good balanced stitch. You might try and use contrasting color threads top and bottom to help see the stitches while you are adjusting. Good luck. Jim
  3. Even though this is only a 10 footer, this is a great buy! To the long arm wannabes out there, or the sit down owners that would like to move up to a long arm, consider buying it. Jim
  4. Deetz: The problem might be the backing, but in my experience Hobbs 80/20 is a bit problematic. I've eliminated that problem by using Hobbs' wool. Don't use the 80/20 much anymore. When I did use it, if I had a dark backing, I'd use the black 80/20, not white or natural. You might consider either of these alternatives in the future. Jim
  5. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like your thread is getting caught in the hook's race. If your hook is in good condition, I don't think that should be happening. It would seem there is too much clearance, and the hook needs to be replaced. To test, pull and push on the center post. If there's any movement, the hook is bad and should be replaced. If you need to replace the hook, and you want a larger bobbin, it might be a good time to upgrade with an M bobbin conversion. Jim
  6. I made my suggestions on your other posting. While there are some nice things about the roller assembly/configuration of the Lenni table, I really prefer the original wooden table your Ult 2 came with. If you search my posts back in '12 '13, and '14 you see photos of the modifications I made to my Ult 2 table. I think it's much better than the Lenni table. Jim
  7. Just a suggestion: Take all 3 rollers to the welder/fabricator at the same time. Have him cut off the end without the gear, and then re-weld the shaft caps after the rollers have been shortened. Tell him you want them to all be shortened exactly the same amount. After the rollers have been shortened then take to shortening the actual table top. With the rollers in hand it will be easier to get the top cut to the right length. No chance of measuring errors, or communications mistakes. Good luck. Jim
  8. Sorry, you're right Cagey. I use Heirloom, buy it by the roll. The 96" comes in a 30 yd roll, and the 110" comes in a 25 yd roll. I don't buy the single batts or the small yardage offerings. Jim
  9. Babs: I use Hobbs legacy wool all the time for my long arm work. Haven't done any hand quilting so no experience there, but I'd guess it would work fine. BTW, I love if for long arm work. My favorite batting. Jim
  10. Deb: Not really a long arm. I had a stretched 622. It was based on Singer 96 industrial machine. It had a 15 inch throat. I noticed a while back that the then current 622's were no longer stretched, just 9". I don't remember what the 633 was. It wasn't one of KenQuilts real long arms. KenQuilt went out of business 5 or 6 years ago. Their "real" longarms were pretty good machines. I don't understand your question about the location of the needle and foot. I think they are in the same place you'd expect to find them on almost any other machine. Jim
  11. I could probably make them for myself, but your most likely best bet, is to contact TinLizzie and try to buy the parts from them. Jim
  12. Allison: Are you wanting to do pantos from the front? If so, there is a Topper for sale here on the forum that I think will work. If that's not what your looking for sorry for the comment. Jim
  13. I don't think so. I have the heat or cooling off in my quilting room all the time, except when I'm actually quilting. Jim
  14. There is no need to remove the needle plate to oil the hook. Snap out the bobbin case, bend over and look at the hook, and put a drop of oil in the hook race. Manually turn the machine back and forth a couple of times to better distribute the oil, snap the bobbin case back in place and you're ready to go. I do this for every sewing session before I begin quilting each day. Jim
  15. Are all the table connections properly adjusted and tight. Are the wheels properly adjusted? Has the machine been oiled? Start at the beginning, search and adjust as you go. Good luck. Jim
  16. It sounds like the needle might be hitting the hook. Is the needle installed properly? Remove the needle,and then re-install it, making sure it's both facing the hook properly, and fully inserted into the needle bar. Jim
  17. Safety pins work fine. The one benefit they offer is that they don'e accidentally come out. Use whatever you like. The point being that you must stabilize the quilt before you roll. Jim
  18. Gigi: Lyn's right, you need to do more to stabilize the quilt before you roll it back and forth. You can also pin rather than baste. If you do that, I'd follow Quilting Heidi's recommendation to "pin the snot out of it". Safety pins about 6 or 8 inches apart will probably do. Jim
  19. Helen: There's another one out on e-bay. Listing #273775429496. asking $3999. Jim
  20. Helen: She has it listed out on e-bay. Listing #113069324513, for $4500, or best offer. If I had needed a machine, I would have bought it. Jim
  21. Have you checked the adjustment of your wheels? They may be too tight, or more likely, too loose. Loose wheels will make directing the head movement a bit unpredictable. Jim
  22. Amy: I have an Ult 2 which of course came without electronic channel locks. I found the "manual" channel lock to be user unfriendly. As a result, I built myself a set of electronic channel locks. I use them all the time. In fact I was thinking about the channel locks the other day while quilting, and thought "what would I do without my channel locks". At least at one time, some of the other long arm manufacturers offer the electronic channel locks as an option. I think the option cost between $800 and $1000, so the extra $1100 APQS wants for the Millie over the Freddie is appropriate. I personally would buy the Millie just for the channel locks. Jim
  23. Olympia: One more thing. Make sure your quilt sandwich is'n't too tight or too loose. That also affects stitch quality. Jim
  24. Your hopping foot pushes the fabric in the direction you are sewing, so as Laura and Connie suggest sew in both directions. Jim
  25. Olympia: Exactly which Superior thread are you using? They make a lot, and some work on a long arms better than others. Your machine will never sew as well from right to left as it will from left to right. Same thing front to back. It's because of the rotary bobbin system our machines use. That lockstitch system was intended for back to front sewing with feed dogs. This makes timing and all hook adjustments critical for these machines. As for shredded thread goes. If you don't find a burr somewhere, it may be the "depth" adjustment on the bobbin basket retaining "finger". Adjust it as far out as you can, and still have it retain the bobbin basket. Your thread may be catching on the end of it as it passes through the gap while making the loop. Sewing different directions changes the position of the thread in that gap, and that accounts for the different directional tension and stitch quality we all have to live with. Good luck. Jim