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Everything posted by jimerickson

  1. On the other identical post I mentioned I made myself a similar set. I however, use mine differently. I hook the "loop" end over the leveling roller, not the backing roller. Jim
  2. I just made me a very similar set a few weeks ago. These look good. Jim
  3. We have a Pacific Steam gravity feed iron we've been using for 7 or 8 years now. It's great! It never leaks, and does not shut off automatically. It's used by 6 or 8 quilters two or three days a week.(on all day when we sew) It's a bit on the heavy side, but does a great job. We've had Rowentas and Ollisos, none of which performed flawlessly. None was very durable. The gravity feed irons aren't portable, but they do work well. We highly recommend them. Do buy one with the hand heat shield, however. I have friend who bought a gravity feed (another brand) without the heat shield, and she finds it too hot for her hand. I think I paid about $150 for it in 2011. Jim
  4. Sew scrap strips of fabric to the ends and sides to give yourself enough room to clamp. I would have had the owner do that before accepting the job. Jim
  5. Pat: Do you use your channel locks to keep the quilt square? That should help some. Fabric stretches, especially long border pieces of fabric without piecing seams. In the future, make an effort to "square" the quilt each time you roll it. Use the locks to maintain vertical lines on the edges, and across the quilt wherever there is a horizontal line. You may have to quilt in some fullness each time you roll. If you pull the top tight, you may be moving any fullness in the piecing to the bottom corners. Hope this helps. Jim
  6. I've meant to correct the misconception about this "gunk" for years now, and I guess now is the time. The black material you see here is not simply aluminum oxidation. There might be some there, but most of it is something else. I believe it is cotton dust, sizing, and dye, along with the dust we find in the air all the time. "How can I be so sure" you ask. Because I have anodized tracks on both of my machines, and I still have the black build up. Anodized aluminum does not oxidize. It is a coating created to specifically deal with aluminum's propensity to oxidize. I don't think APQS bothers to anodize their table rails, the ones for my Ult 2 were raw aluminum, which I had anodized myself. The Ult 2 carriage was anodized when I got it, as are the rails on my Gammill. I still get that black build up on them. I haven't addressed this issue before, because dealing with it, whether aluminum oxidation, or simply dirt, is the same; clean the rails with some evaporating solvent. But I've decided to set the record straight so someone else doesn't have parts of their table anodized in hopes of eliminating the problem. Jim
  7. Draggingbutt: The reason you don't see issues with the Quilt Path discussed here isn't because there aren't any, but because the Quilt Path group only allows Quilt Path owners to visit the site, and you must be invited to join. Jim
  8. The M bobbin holds almost twice the thread that the L bobbin holds. Jim
  9. Perhaps too basic, but you do know that seams will push your machine off line? I have constant issues with seams when doing SID. Just something I've learned to live with. Jim
  10. When I get loops, it is usually because there is something wrong with the upper tension. Try tightening and see if the problem goes away. Jim PS: because Tut is cotton, check your bobbin case for hidden lint.
  11. I dislike Moda fabrics for exactly that reason. Rather than being dyed, it appears that the fabric is "painted" and the back side is very light colored. When you sew on it, some of the threads roll over showing the light color of the "wrong" side. The "pokies" aren't really the batting showing through but a problem with the under lying fabric. Jim
  12. The metallic rattling you heard is probably the bobbin basket hitting the finger that controls it's travel. It's hard to fiddle with the hook without rotating it sightly, and that might be what you're feeling. There shouldn't be any play in the hook. It should only rotate and not move any other way. Jim
  13. Peggy: I don't know which winder you have, and I don't have a "official" AQPS winder, but I've had my after market industrial winder stop on me in the past. I solved the problem by removing the motor brushes, blowing the dust out of the motor and de-glaizing the brush surface. If you can get at the motor, you might try that. Jim
  14. Karen: Try tightening up your top tension. Crank it up until the top thread is pulling the bobbin thread to the top, then start loosening it until you get a good balanced stitch. You might try and use contrasting color threads top and bottom to help see the stitches while you are adjusting. Good luck. Jim
  15. Even though this is only a 10 footer, this is a great buy! To the long arm wannabes out there, or the sit down owners that would like to move up to a long arm, consider buying it. Jim
  16. Deetz: The problem might be the backing, but in my experience Hobbs 80/20 is a bit problematic. I've eliminated that problem by using Hobbs' wool. Don't use the 80/20 much anymore. When I did use it, if I had a dark backing, I'd use the black 80/20, not white or natural. You might consider either of these alternatives in the future. Jim
  17. I can't tell for sure, but it looks like your thread is getting caught in the hook's race. If your hook is in good condition, I don't think that should be happening. It would seem there is too much clearance, and the hook needs to be replaced. To test, pull and push on the center post. If there's any movement, the hook is bad and should be replaced. If you need to replace the hook, and you want a larger bobbin, it might be a good time to upgrade with an M bobbin conversion. Jim
  18. I made my suggestions on your other posting. While there are some nice things about the roller assembly/configuration of the Lenni table, I really prefer the original wooden table your Ult 2 came with. If you search my posts back in '12 '13, and '14 you see photos of the modifications I made to my Ult 2 table. I think it's much better than the Lenni table. Jim
  19. Just a suggestion: Take all 3 rollers to the welder/fabricator at the same time. Have him cut off the end without the gear, and then re-weld the shaft caps after the rollers have been shortened. Tell him you want them to all be shortened exactly the same amount. After the rollers have been shortened then take to shortening the actual table top. With the rollers in hand it will be easier to get the top cut to the right length. No chance of measuring errors, or communications mistakes. Good luck. Jim
  20. Sorry, you're right Cagey. I use Heirloom, buy it by the roll. The 96" comes in a 30 yd roll, and the 110" comes in a 25 yd roll. I don't buy the single batts or the small yardage offerings. Jim
  21. Babs: I use Hobbs legacy wool all the time for my long arm work. Haven't done any hand quilting so no experience there, but I'd guess it would work fine. BTW, I love if for long arm work. My favorite batting. Jim
  22. Deb: Not really a long arm. I had a stretched 622. It was based on Singer 96 industrial machine. It had a 15 inch throat. I noticed a while back that the then current 622's were no longer stretched, just 9". I don't remember what the 633 was. It wasn't one of KenQuilts real long arms. KenQuilt went out of business 5 or 6 years ago. Their "real" longarms were pretty good machines. I don't understand your question about the location of the needle and foot. I think they are in the same place you'd expect to find them on almost any other machine. Jim
  23. I could probably make them for myself, but your most likely best bet, is to contact TinLizzie and try to buy the parts from them. Jim
  24. Allison: Are you wanting to do pantos from the front? If so, there is a Topper for sale here on the forum that I think will work. If that's not what your looking for sorry for the comment. Jim
  25. I don't think so. I have the heat or cooling off in my quilting room all the time, except when I'm actually quilting. Jim