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Everything posted by jimerickson

  1. Check your encoders. They might have a loose connection, or be dirty. Also make sure they are making solid contact with the surface they roll on. Good luck. Jim
  2. No. What you're experiencing is normal. As you roll up the quilt on the take-up roller it takes up space in the "harp". Each pass you make will shorten your "stitching field". Just plan accordingly. If you're stitching a panto, make sure that it is no deeper than the smallest stitching field will be. Probably 2 or 2 1/2 inches less. Good luck. Jim
  3. I think the Lenni comes with one. Some of the older machines came with a "spoon" foot that didn't lend itself too well to ruler work, so unless you have a "spoon" foot machine, you shouldn't need to replace the foot to do ruler work. Jim
  4. Marie: Bigger is always better, unless it doesn't fit the space. I think a 10' frame would serve most folks OK unless they do a lot of king size quilts. Usually even kings have one dimension that's less than 100". You can load the long dimension to the rollers and quilt really long quilts. I'd go ahead with the modification. Jim
  5. OK, I've checked, and found a web site where you can buy Schmetz SERV 7 needles: schmetzneedles.com "Long Arm Needles - 135x5 SERV 7 - Schmetz Needles" Jim
  6. I bring this thread forward for the benefit of our more recent joining members. I'll look and see if I can find a source for the Schmetz SERV 7 needles, and if I can, I'll add that to the thread. Regards. Jim
  7. Welcome. Most of the members have abandoned this forum in favor of FB. Too bad. However, there is a lot of really good info archived here. If you have an issue, ask a question. It might take a day or two for a reply now but you'll get one. More likely, your issue will have been discussed sometime in the past. Just search the posts. Jim
  8. I use YLI Longarm Professional on top, Bottom line in the bobbin, and also avoid quilting in the "rubber". No special needle consideration. I would question your choice of batting however. Thermor is really low loft. In my experience T shirts turn out better with a lofty batting. Seems to help with the stretchy knit fabrics. Good luck. Jim
  9. Ananuk: This is a long shot, but might help. Contact Kasa Engineering, the makers on Intelliquilt. They have assisted with Compuquilter, support after they went out of business, maybe they can help with outdated Statler software. Jim
  10. I use my TOWA on the table top. I don't have a pig tail on my bobbin cases, and don't really see a need for it. My Happy commercial embroidery machine has a pig tail on it's bobbin case which I'm sure helps with sudden direction changes, but those kinds of direction changes are much less frequent with long arm quilting. If you find tension adjustments easier without the using the tail, then don't use it. You could go further and buy a replacement bobbin case without the pig tail. I think the model you need is BC-DBM(1)NBL3. You can find them online. I've bought mine off e-bay. If you shop online, look for bobbin cases made in Japan, not China. The quality control on the Chinese ones are kind of hit and miss. You might get a good one, then again, you might not. I like TOWA, but Koban or Hirise are good. Jim
  11. You haven't told us anything about the tension settings you're using. I typically run pretty tight stitches on my machines, and have had thread breakage problems when using Glide. Others here run it all the time with no apparent issues. If it's not tension, check your thread guides for wear (probably not the problem since your Millie is new). Then check your timing, especially needle bar height adjustment. If all these check out OK, look at your threading of the machine. You may need to reduce the number of holes you use on your pre-tension bar. Also check your hopping foot height adjustment. Good luck. Jim
  12. Turning you needle will help with skipped stitches, but not with tension issues. If you're using equal ruler tension in all directions, then I think it's a matter of tension adjustment. The direction you are sewing affects stitch tension by drag on the top thread. e.g. more tension in some directions, less tension in others. With very light tension the direction tension variables become magnified. My suggestion: Tighten your bobbin tension to 200 on you TOWA, then tighten your top tension enough to balance your stitches. With this tighter stitch, the direction tension differences will be a much smaller percent of total tension, and stitch balance will be easier to achieve. Jim
  13. I made my own for my Ult2, so I don't know for sure, but I think one offered for a Lenni would fit since they are both built on the same platform. Jim
  14. Not too unusual. Especially if you sew in the printed on material. Additional drag on thread inhibits the loop formation which causes skipped stitches. Try a bit of silicon on thread and needle. That will probably help. Good luck. Jim
  15. Cagey: Are you sure the needle doesn't hit the center? Take a piece of paper, set it under the hopping foot, pencil around the outside, then turn the needle down til it pierces the paper, remove the paper and measure the distance from the hole to the circle to see just where the foot sets. I don't know anything about the APQS ruler feet, but I do know the way you look at something, sometimes leaves you with an incorrect impression. As much "flap" as there has been about front and back spacing, I'd be surprised if the new feet weren't accurate. Jim
  16. What you quilted is probably why the needle went dull. If you still have the worn out needle, check the tip for damage. Run your fingernail up and down the point feeling for a burr. If you feel one, the needle was damaged by hitting something. If there is no burr, it's just dull. I've heard the story about the chrome vs titanium needle and damage. In my experience, and I've used both type MR needles, there's nothing to it. They both bend and break the same way. Use titanium if you want them to last longer, replace them more often if you don't. I don't think you would have had a bad needle. The Groz-Beckert are high quality needles, and I don't think their quality control would let bad needles leave the factory. Jim
  17. I'm surprised that you dulled a needle so quickly. I think I probably get a dozen or more quilts out of a one. What kind of fabric and batting were you using? I'll have to admit that I don't do dense custom quilting with lots and lots of seams, and I don't use cotton batting much anymore. Batiks dull needles more quickly as well. But still.... What brand needles are you using? It sounds like you might benefit from titanium coated ones. I used to have trouble dulling needles, but discovered it was really a timing issue. Flex of the needle allowed it to occasionally hit the hook, and that dulled them in a hurry. Re-timed, and switched to Schmetz needles which are stiffer than the Groz-Beckerts. What size needle are you using? Small ones flex more than larger ones, so they're more likely the hit the hook as well. Schmetz advertises you can use one size smaller and maintain the stiffness of the larger MR needle. Take a look at your timing, and hook/needle clearance. Pay particular attention to your needle bar height. Good luck. Jim
  18. I would call a mid-arm as anything 15" and under. My suggestion to you is to look for an APQS Lenni. Bigger than your friend's SweetSixteen, but small enough to handle easily. I'd shop for a used one, knowing full well that APQS is there for any assistance and support you might need. The APQS machines are industrial strength, simple, and almost un-breakable. I've got a 23 year old Ult 2, and couldn't be happier. Jim
  19. LinneaMarie: Shana's right about the fabric, but I'd like to add that the 80/20 batting you're using isn't the best when it comes to bearding as well. I prefer to use a poly or more preferably, wool because they don't beard. I don't use 80/20 much anymore unless the customer wants cotton batting. Jim
  20. Try starting (moving the machine) slower. You may be out running the stitch regulator when you begin to sew. Jim
  21. You should be able to get a pretty good ides as to whether the hook needs polishing without removing it, by 1) looking carefully for scratches, and 2) running your finger over the various hook parts feeling for any damage. A couple of basic questions: Have you checked the machine timing? If it is slightly out of time, the top thread may not be being released timely, causing the thread to be overly stressed. Are you using the proper type needle? If they are the Singer type (which includes Gros-Beckert) they should be MR, SAN 11 size 3.0 to 5.0. If they are something else, the needle may be your problem. Did your manual include photos of proper timing? If so, make sure your machine is adjusted exactly as pictured. If you don't have photos, look on APQS's website for examples. BTW, I think all the Ult 2 manuals were photo copied pages held in a binder, at least that's what mine is like. The timing photos however, are actual excellent quality black and white photos. When looking at the machine timing, pay particular attention to the needle bar adjustment. I seem to remember having a similar thread issue with my machine shortly after I bought it, and it turned out to be that the needle bar was set too deep. Raising the needle bar so the needle eye position exactly matched the proper timing photo, solved the problem. Good luck. Jim
  22. It sounds like the spring tension might be the issue. You can tighten the spring tension by removing the tension assembly, loosening the set screw, rotating it against the spring, tightening up the set screw and replacing it in the machine. When you return the assembly to the machine, make sure that the spring is set at the 10:30/11:00 position when it is "resting". Good luck. Jim
  23. Loretta: Both Laura and I have Intellistitch stitch regulators on our machines, so our "unregulated" experience is in the distant past. That being said, shredded thread isn't only a problem of unregulated machines. Is there any particular quilting action where the shredding happens? If so, that might give us a clue. I personally use YLI Longarm Professional as top thread almost exclusively. The strongest longarm thread I've found. It is possible that you have a burr somewhere on your hook assembly. Examine it very carefully, and if you fine one polish it down with fine emery cloth. Good luck. Jim