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Everything posted by jimerickson

  1. Becky: I'd probably make two wooden brackets, one for each end, wide enough so holes matching the bolt pattern of the roller rack support could be drilled, and long enough to provide a 17" drop from the table bottom, then drill a hole to match your batting support rod in the lower end of the bracket. After the brackets are made, I'd put longer bolts in the roller rack support assembly, and bolt the brackets to it. All could be done in wood, and at a work bench. No need to try and drill you table frame. Good luck. Jim
  2. Stevi: Since Judy hasn't answered yet, I will. The Lenni's have a 20" throat, not 22. Jim
  3. I would be inclined to not charge for the job, or at least offer to do the next quilt for no charge, since it was my fault the quilt was harmed. Do you think it's good business to offer discounts for bad work? Just my thoughts. Jim
  4. Are you sure the table is 14 ft? I wasn't aware that they made any other than 12 ft models. Just don't want someone to be surprised when they buy it. Jim
  5. Contact APQS. They should be able to advise you. If they don't have such manuals, they should be able to tell you if they exist. Jim
  6. Problems arise if there is supposed to be a pattern on the back side. If it's just random quilting , it's OK, but if there's any custom pattern, or any critical positioning of the quilting on the back, it's very difficult to do. I discourage pieced backs from my customers, and refuse to accept responsibility for any misalignment that might occur. Jim
  7. I hope it goes as well for you as it did for me. Jim
  8. I've done it to my Ult2. I had to weld extentions to one end of the roller shafts in order to provide enough room to clamp them on. I bought 4" hand wheels from Grizzly to complete the retro fit. The roller shafts were 5/8", so I added 1/2" rod butted up to the end so that regardless of the accuracy of my welds, the shafts would slide through the support bearings. Easy enough for me to do because I weld, although if you really want them, taking the 3 rollers to a welding shop probably wouldn't be all that difficult. Good luck. Jim
  9. There's a really good deal just posted by JudyN on used machines for sale. It's in CA, but such a good value would be worth some shipping expense/inconvenience. Jim
  10. I bought an Ult2 and had it shipped from FL to TX. That was 11 years ago though. I arranged shipping through an on line shipping website called USHIP. I don't know whether they're still going or not. It was a service where you list what you want shipped and the locations, and small independent haulers bid on the job. There were several levels of service available to the customer, from simply hauling to complete breakdown, delivery and reassembly. It cost me $550, and was a very pleasant experience. The fellow that hauled it for me was a school teacher who paid for his vacations and trav
  11. Looks like longarmforsale bought it and is trying to resell, thus the difference in price.
  12. My guess is that the thick seams are the problem. I've broken needles on them before (almost the only time I ever break a needle) while free handing. Now I try to avoid those type seams whenever I'm quilting. Slowing down might help a bit, but I don't think that's the answer. It might help if you were to go to a larger needle (bigger to push, but thicker and stronger), but you can only go up one size to a 5.0 MR. I personally use Schmetz needles which I think are stiffer and stronger than the MR's, but I don't suppose you have any of them on hand. With your I/Q it might be worth you
  13. Make sure your top thread tension is tight enough. Tighten the top thread until you get "railroad track" on the top, then begin loosening the top tension until you get a balanced stitch. Almost any time I have poor stitch quality it's because my top tension is off. I run my bobbin tension a bit tighter than you. My TOWA readings are between 210 and 225. I do like a tight stitch. Good luck. Jim
  14. Lorri: I do ruler work. If I'm doing SID, I just set the ruler in a place that puts my stitches on the seam where I want it. If I'm cross hatching I use my Quiltazoid rather than rulers. Good luck. Jim
  15. Lorri: I just measured my Classic foot with a micrometer and learned it is .541" in diameter. Slightly larger than the 13 mm I thought it was, but still smaller than the 9/16" that you think yours is. If your foot is actually the same as mine, you would need to remove .020" material from all sides of the loop. If its actually 9/6", you would have to remove .031" from all sides of the loop. I just didn't want to leave you with the incorrect measurements I previously provided. Regards. Jim
  16. Are you quilting a single piece back, or one you've seamed together? If you're using a pieced back, which way is the seam(s) mounted in relation to the rollers? If perpendicular, the seam allowance piles up, making the backing at the seam act like its shorter than the sides. Because of this, I almost always mount my pieced backs with the seams parallel to the rollers. That also allows me to pin the selvage to the leaders assuring me the back is square with the rollers. Jim
  17. PKS: If you look, you'll see that the conversation about the Lucey is almost 5 years old. If you want comments about Lucey models, you'll probably be better served by starting a new thread, and asking you questions directly. If you're new to long arm and looking to buy your first machine, I'd offer that you can't do much better than any APQS model. If you're an old hand, and want specifics comparing one APQS model to another, ask that question. Good luck. Jim
  18. Nichole: Did you call Nolting? Casa Engineering no longer does it, but at least for awhile, Nolting was doing an upgrade to machines other than Noltings. The Intellistitch regulator is the one used by Nolting (or it was the last time I checked) so they would have the parts and expertise. Jim
  19. Lorri: The OEM hopping foot on my Gammill Classic is not 9/16", it's actually 13 mm. Slightly more than 1/2", but not as large as yours. I don't know anything about Gammill's replacement feet, so I don't know whether the replacements are exactly 1/2" or not. When you consider the width of the stitch, 13 mm might be the right size for 1/4" seam allowance. That being said, if I felt I had to have an exact 1/2" foot, I would simply take the foot off my machine, and file the hoop done .018" around its circumference. If you feel uncomfortable reducing the size yourself, just take it to a mach
  20. Lorri: I'm having a hard time understanding what you hope to accomplish with the "quick change feet" Gammill used to offer. Maybe you can elaborate. Thanks. Jim
  21. Get the delux. Better to have more than you need than to need more than you have. Jim
  22. I don't know much about these machines, but sounds like it needs oil. If you've oiled the hook, then it's probably the needle bar, take up mech, or main bushings. Maybe even the belt. Good luck. Jim