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Everything posted by jimerickson

  1. MEB: Don't turn on your machine until you've removed the needle from the hook, and it turns easily by hand. If you do , you'll just blow the fuses again. Pull the needle with the pliers and rock the hand wheel back and forth until it comes out, and the machine turns free. Jim
  2. jimerickson

    Bobbin problem

    If you're machine uses M bobbins, buy some of the bronze colored steel ones, like most Gammill owners use. I've found them to be well made, and reliable. I currently use the extruded aluminum ones and have had no problems with them. Jim
  3. jimerickson

    Frame Assembly

    Cindy: Did you follow up on Nigel's video recommendation? If not, do so. The best way I've found to help "index" the beginning of a tension adjustment is to start by tightening up the top tension until it pulls the bottom thread to the top on every stitch. Then begin loosening it until you get a balanced stitch. Really loose top tension can make it look like something else is a problem. It can also lead to "birds nests" and broken thread. Good luck. Jim
  4. jimerickson

    George top thread catches stitching away from me

    See my comments in the Geroge forum where you also posted the question.
  5. jimerickson

    Thread catches when stitching front to back

    Betty: You may be pressing down too hard on the quilt "sandwich" and causing a momentary high bobbin tension as you sew toward yourself. That direction is of course, on of the worst for a lock stitch machine like we all use. See if being a bit more gentle doesn't help. Regards. Jim
  6. jimerickson

    Scoop Foot?

    So it is the spoon foot, or at least something like it. I guess there's really nothing new these days. Jim
  7. jimerickson

    Frame Assembly

    Since you're now sewing with your "new" Ult 1, I'm guessing you figured out how the frame is assembled. If not, I'd suggest you look in the "used machine for sale" forum here to locate Ult 1's that have been for sale, and search the photos for clues on how the frame goes together. Good luck. Jim
  8. jimerickson

    Scoop Foot?

    What is the "scoop" foot? Is it the old "spoon" foot? Just wondering. Jim
  9. jimerickson

    Quilt Path vs. Intelliquilter

    Maribeth: I've been quilting for over 10 years now. Started with a KenQuilt stretched 622. moved to a P17.(a Singer 201 based stretched machine), and then to a Gammill Classic, and a year later added my APQS Ult 2. I've had the Ult 2 for nearly 9 years. Having had a couple of "lesser" machines, I really appreciate the design and quality of the Gammill and APQS. I do the occasional commission quilt as well as most of the quilting for our sewing group, and have probably quilted about 1000 quilts over my quilting "life". I'm happy to share some of the insights I've gained as a result of my experience, and hope my thoughts are helpful to the folks here on the forum. Jim
  10. jimerickson

    Quilt Path vs. Intelliquilter

    Maribeth: I don't have a computerized system, and my experience is limited to nearly a decade of reading posts, but I think the IQ is a better choice. I believe Quilt Path is a Grace product, and of course Grace makes all sorts of quilting products. Intelliquilter is made by Kasa Engineering, who make only the Intellistitch stitch regulator, and the Intelliquilter. A lot narrower focus. I've had experience with Kasa since I had two older long arms fitted with the Intellistitch regulators. Besides being one of the best stitch regulators on the market, they are very responsive to any problem you might have. They really do stand behind their product. From simply looking at the two systems, the Intellistitch seems to be better engineered. Their drive motors seem to be a better design choice than the belt drive system of the Quilt Path. APQS is a great company, so they won't sell you a poor product, so Quilt Path must be good, but if I were buying a full featured robotic system, it would be the Intelliquilter. It seems like folks with experience with both products prefer the IQ. I hope my thoughts are helpful. Jim
  11. jimerickson

    APQS 2007 Freedom SR in Utah

    Rhea: You might want to list the machine's location. That info can help someone decide if they're interested. Jim
  12. jimerickson


    I've used the Gross Beckert titanium coated needles a lot, and they have performed well for me. APQS claims they are more prone to breakage, where as the chrome plated ones bend. In my experience, I have not found that to be the case. I no longer use MR needles of any kind. Two or three years ago, I switched to Schmetz SERV 7 needles, which only come in chrome. If they were offered in titanium, I'd buy them. I like the Schmetz because they seem to be stiffer than the MR needles, and don't miss stitches as often. I would have to say the life of the chrome ones is quite long, so I'm not sure there is any benefit to using titanium coated needles for long arms. When I was using MR needles, I damaged the tip long before the needles were worn dull. The damaged tips were mostly caused by deflection and the needle striking the hook assembly. The Schmetz needles I now use, have pretty much eliminated that problem. I hardly ever have to change needles now. Jim
  13. Vicki: You might find a local quilt shop that carries a lot of long arm supplies who stocks them, but probably not. Best buy them here from APQS, or on line from an industrial sewing supply company. Jim
  14. jimerickson

    Check spring

    If the spring popped off, it broke at the base, not the loop. If it were broken at the loop, it would stay in place, and just not work right. Jim
  15. jimerickson

    Using pattern boards for vertical borders

    It depends on the size of the quilt (length). If the quilt is square you'll be fine. However, if the width is near your frame limit, and the length is longer, you might not be able to get it all on your leaders. You'll have to be creative in that situation. Jim
  16. jimerickson

    Using pattern boards for vertical borders

    The best way to do it is to turn the quilt. While I don't use pattern boards per se, I turn the quilts when I do Quiltazoid border patterns, or long straight line quilting. It's just a matter of unpinning the quilt, rotating it 90 degrees and repinning. It usually takes about an half hour. BTW, I do all the horizontal quilting on the first pinning, before I turn it, and since the "sandwich" is completely secured, I only pin to one of the leaders when I turn. Hope this helps. Jim
  17. They are not all the same. They all will probably fit and work in your machine, but the quality control on their respective manufacture aren't the same. The black ones (probably the least expensive) are the poorest. I've thrown away about one in ten, and no longer buy them. The bronze colored ones are good, but I really prefer the extruded aluminum ones. I figure the manufacturing tolerances are probably the tightest on them. None of these need be expensive. I paid about $1.00ea for the black, about $2.50ea for the bronze colored, and about $1.50ea (I think-can't really remember) for the aluminum ones. These were bought in ten plus lots, no one at a time. If you're paying a lot more than that per bobbin, you can probably do better on line. Jim BTW, the aluminum ones I've bought where plain silver, not the colored anodized ones, which I think are a little more expensive.
  18. Rebecca: I converted my Ult 2 to M bobbin way back in 2010. At the time APQS wasn't even offering an M bobbin option. I had to source all my own parts, and figure out the conversion by my self. It wasn't difficult to do, it just took me a while to get everything right. Now with parts from APQS, the conversion shouldn't be much more difficult than changing the hook on your machine, and adjusting the needle bar height. If you can handle those two tasks, you can do the conversion. Jim
  19. jimerickson


    Jeanne: I think the problem is with the stabilizer used to stiffen the jersey fabric. Try the largest needle you have (5.0 maybe). If this doesn't take care of the problem, the timing will probably need adjusting. There my guess would be that either the needle bar isn't set deep enough so a large thread loop isn't being made, or that the hook is meeting the meeting the needle too far down in the scarf so that any fabric tension on the thread is keeping the loop from properly forming. Jim
  20. jimerickson


    Vicky: I think Deb is confusing the Lenni with the Millie. I'm sure it doesn't have a 16" sewing field. My Ult 2 has a 14.25" field, and I'm sure that's greater than the Lenni. Jim
  21. jimerickson


    Sorry, I can't advise you there. I don't do pantos, and I have an Ult 2 with a custom table, not a Lenni so my sewing field would be different from yours. Someone who does pantos on their Lenni should be able to answer that question. Jim
  22. jimerickson


    Vicky: There is ample room in the throat to hold a king size quilt rolled up on the take-up roller. The only thing that happens is that your sewing "field" gets a bit smaller as you roll up the quilt. Doesn't make any difference unless your doing a large panto (something over 12 inches) or large pattern blocks. Hopes this helps. Jim
  23. jimerickson

    Magnetic bobbins - tension

    Marie: If you're really interested in proper bobbin tension adjustment, do yourself a favor and invest in a TOWA bobbin tension gauge. They're expensive, (about $70), but you'll be able to adjust for any type of bobbin you're using. Since you put the bobbin in the tension gauge as you'd use it in your machine, you don't have to worry about which ever anti-backlash system you're using. Jim
  24. Gardner: Can you post some photos of your leaders. They sound intriguing. I'm not sure I understand what you've done. Thanks. Jim
  25. Let me tell you first, I don't own a Millie. That being said, I think I can help you with your problems. First of all, handle tightening. There appear to be two clamping screws for each handle on the front of your machine. Position the slipping handle where you want it, and simply tighten the two screws for that handle. As far as the needle up/ needle down goes, I've seen others with that issue correct it by adjusting the number "8" screw. (somewhere on the back of the machine). Hopes this helps. Jim