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Everything posted by jimerickson

  1. There is no need to remove the needle plate to oil the hook. Snap out the bobbin case, bend over and look at the hook, and put a drop of oil in the hook race. Manually turn the machine back and forth a couple of times to better distribute the oil, snap the bobbin case back in place and you're ready to go. I do this for every sewing session before I begin quilting each day. Jim
  2. Are all the table connections properly adjusted and tight. Are the wheels properly adjusted? Has the machine been oiled? Start at the beginning, search and adjust as you go. Good luck. Jim
  3. It sounds like the needle might be hitting the hook. Is the needle installed properly? Remove the needle,and then re-install it, making sure it's both facing the hook properly, and fully inserted into the needle bar. Jim
  4. Safety pins work fine. The one benefit they offer is that they don'e accidentally come out. Use whatever you like. The point being that you must stabilize the quilt before you roll. Jim
  5. Gigi: Lyn's right, you need to do more to stabilize the quilt before you roll it back and forth. You can also pin rather than baste. If you do that, I'd follow Quilting Heidi's recommendation to "pin the snot out of it". Safety pins about 6 or 8 inches apart will probably do. Jim
  6. Helen: There's another one out on e-bay. Listing #273775429496. asking $3999. Jim
  7. Helen: She has it listed out on e-bay. Listing #113069324513, for $4500, or best offer. If I had needed a machine, I would have bought it. Jim
  8. Have you checked the adjustment of your wheels? They may be too tight, or more likely, too loose. Loose wheels will make directing the head movement a bit unpredictable. Jim
  9. Amy: I have an Ult 2 which of course came without electronic channel locks. I found the "manual" channel lock to be user unfriendly. As a result, I built myself a set of electronic channel locks. I use them all the time. In fact I was thinking about the channel locks the other day while quilting, and thought "what would I do without my channel locks". At least at one time, some of the other long arm manufacturers offer the electronic channel locks as an option. I think the option cost between $800 and $1000, so the extra $1100 APQS wants for the Millie over the Freddie is appropriate. I personally would buy the Millie just for the channel locks. Jim
  10. Olympia: One more thing. Make sure your quilt sandwich is'n't too tight or too loose. That also affects stitch quality. Jim
  11. Your hopping foot pushes the fabric in the direction you are sewing, so as Laura and Connie suggest sew in both directions. Jim
  12. Olympia: Exactly which Superior thread are you using? They make a lot, and some work on a long arms better than others. Your machine will never sew as well from right to left as it will from left to right. Same thing front to back. It's because of the rotary bobbin system our machines use. That lockstitch system was intended for back to front sewing with feed dogs. This makes timing and all hook adjustments critical for these machines. As for shredded thread goes. If you don't find a burr somewhere, it may be the "depth" adjustment on the bobbin basket retaining "finger". Adjust it as far out as you can, and still have it retain the bobbin basket. Your thread may be catching on the end of it as it passes through the gap while making the loop. Sewing different directions changes the position of the thread in that gap, and that accounts for the different directional tension and stitch quality we all have to live with. Good luck. Jim
  13. More likely the take up roller. At any rate, pull the machine to where it moves poorly, and then look for any contact the machine head is making with rollers. Good luck. Jim
  14. Batty: Check how deep the bobbin basket retaining "finger" is set. It may need to be moved out a bit more to give more room for the thread to pass. I rarely use Glide because it often breaks for me. I think my problem is that I like my stitches tight, and Glide, being an embroidery thread, just isn't strong enough to hold up to my tension settings. Jim
  15. Caddy: I've had a bobbin camera for several years now, but hardly ever use it. My issue is exactly what you're asking about. What does a perfect stitch look like? About the only thing that the display helps with is loops and birds nests, and I've found feeling the bobbin stitches with my finger tip really tells me more than the camera. When I bought it, thought it would be helpful, but it really hasn't been for me. Jim
  16. Janet: Have you tried the switches on both ends of the machine? If the opposite set work, then you probably need to replace the switches. If not, you'd better call Gammill for help. Jim
  17. ORN: I think Nolting will install an Intellistitch regulator on a Discovery, if that's what you're trying to get. They are expensive, the one on my Ult 2 cost me $3200 back in 2011. If you're just wanting a robotic machine, then if this Discovery has needle positioner, it would be a good candidate. If on the other hand you want a stitch regulated machine for hand guided quilting, you're probably better off looking for a machine that is already regulated, unless you can buy the Discovery really cheap. Jim
  18. ORN: I think the machine must be set up for needle up/needle down, and single stitch in order for the robot to work. I don't know whether the Discovery had the type motor necessary for that, but it's predecessor the Ult 2 didn't. I think Nigel might know because he had an Intelliquilter installed on his Ult 1. I remember him saying that he didn't need to have the intellistitch up grade for the machine, but he did it anyway. Maybe he'll chime in. Jim
  19. Check and see if you have the needle inserted properly. It sounds like you might have it in backwards. Good luck. Jim
  20. Mercedes: I don't think there has been any actual instructions on how do do it. What you'd need to do is go to a local welder/fabricator, explain what you want done, and let them do it. It would involve cutting the rollers to the proper length and re-welding them, cutting the table rails, and the top itself, drilling any new holes necessary to reassemble it. Not too big a job. Jim
  21. Really, probably not. You could try that, but the quilt would be really heavy. I use either wool (expensive), or a heavy poly (inexpensive). I use only Hobbs, and their 12 oz. poly has a lot of loft. Good luck. Jim
  22. Mona: You're probably over lubing the hook. I think once a quilting session is enough. Oiling the wicks seems right. Jim
  23. When I have a quilt with a lot of fullness, I use a high loft batting, and quilt as heavily as necessary to control the fullness. Jim
  24. Sew: Did the motor get hot? If so, you might have the drive belt set too tight. When you press your finger on the belt, it should move about 1/4 inch. If it's tighter than that, loosen it a bit, and try sewing again. Good luck. Jim