jimerickson

Try cutting the thread, strand by strand, or as much as you can each time.  Pull each thread you cut out until the clog is removed.  Good luck.  Jim 
PS: the last resort would be to remove the hook assembly from the machine.  If you do that, you'll have to re-time the machine after the clog is removed.  It's difficult to loosen the screws that hold the hook in place if you can't rotate the hook (turn the flywheel)  A lot of folks are afraid to do this, but if you're serious about long arm quilting, it's something you really should learn how to do.  One more step to mastering the trade.

Try cutting the thread, strand by strand, or as much as you can each time.  Pull each thread you cut out until the clog is removed.  Good luck.  Jim 
PS: the last resort would be to remove the hook assembly from the machine.  If you do that, you'll have to re-time the machine after the clog is removed.  It's difficult to loosen the screws that hold the hook in place if you can't rotate the hook (turn the flywheel)  A lot of folks are afraid to do this, but if you're serious about long arm quilting, it's something you really should learn how to do.  One more step to mastering the trade.

Try cutting the thread, strand by strand, or as much as you can each time.  Pull each thread you cut out until the clog is removed.  Good luck.  Jim 
PS: the last resort would be to remove the hook assembly from the machine.  If you do that, you'll have to re-time the machine after the clog is removed.  It's difficult to loosen the screws that hold the hook in place if you can't rotate the hook (turn the flywheel)  A lot of folks are afraid to do this, but if you're serious about long arm quilting, it's something you really should learn how to do.  One more step to mastering the trade.

I sew it the way they bring it to me.  That said, typically I pin the selvedge edges of the backing to the leaders so that I know the take-up leader, and the backing leader will be parallel.  That mostly avoids cutting flaws.  Jim

Have you tried vacuuming them.  It might help.  Jim

Have you tried vacuuming them.  It might help.  Jim

Helen:  Don't buy another cheap winder.  Save your money and buy a good one.  I use a commercial winder and it has served me well.  I have several that i've bought over the years.  Some as complete free standing units, others a simply pieces that I put together.  I bought all mine as used items. Paid as low as $10 (a really good buy at a quilt show rummage sale), and as much as $65 off e-bay.  APQS's high end winder is high quality, but also high cost.  Jim

Look on some of the sewing supply web sites, you'll probably find some.  E-bay might have have some as well.  Good luck.  Jim

Looks like this is a question about a robotic system.  Probably would be more effective if posted on the specific forum covering that system.  Good luck.  Jim

Deb:  This is the right site, but most of the QP users hang out on the Face Book site.  As for the long and short stitches, check your encoders to make sure everything there is working properly.  Jim

What's wrong with the one you have (last legs)?  If the motor is giving out replace it, or simply replace the brushes.  I'm assuming you already have a commercial unit.  If not, buy one.  Jim

Sounds like you probably found the problem already  From your description, I'd have suggested you look at your encoders.  Hope the problem has been solved.  Jim

What's wrong with the one you have (last legs)?  If the motor is giving out replace it, or simply replace the brushes.  I'm assuming you already have a commercial unit.  If not, buy one.  Jim

Exactly what "second floor" location do you have the machine set up on?  Unless the building shakes easily, I can't imagine the location of the machine is causing your vibration.  Look for some other issue.  Jim

I have a customer or two that are pretty week in their piecing.  I use high loft batting on such quilts.  Helps deal with "fullness".  You might try that to help deal with one of the problems anyway.  Good luck.  Jim

I have a customer or two that are pretty week in their piecing.  I use high loft batting on such quilts.  Helps deal with "fullness".  You might try that to help deal with one of the problems anyway.  Good luck.  Jim

I'm surprised it "falls off" in only one place.  Examine the rail for damage of some sort.  Tighten the wheels back up.  As for new wheels or not; examine them for wear.  Are the grooves nice and smooth?  Is there any play between the hub and body of wheel?  If you find any problems with the wheels, then yes, they need replacement.  If the wheels look good, concentrate on proper adjustment.  My guess is that you had them too loose to begin with.  Good luck.  Jim

Helen:  I think you'll find your Lenni has a 20" throat, not 22".  Don't want to mislead anyone.  Jim

Are you asking about a sewing machine to piece with?  If so, top of my list is an old Singer 301, followed closely by a Singer featherweight 221.  If you're planning to do something other than piecing, maybe these aren't the machines you want.  The quality of manufacture of these old Singers is something you don't see today, probably never see again.  Sixty, seventy, eighty years old, doesn't matter.  They just don't die.  Jim

I added hand wheels to the rollers on the Ult 2 table I rebuilt 12 years ago.  The original Ult 2 table only had 3 rollers, I added the fourth "leveling" roller during the rebuild.  I completely redid the roller mount system, using pillow blocks to mount the rollers.  I welded extensions to the roller shafts on the right ends of the pick-up, backing, and quilt top rollers.  This extended the shafts about 1.5" to 2" beyond the pillow blocks, and provided the necessary shaft length to mount the wheels.
I'm not sure how much your roller shafts extend beyond their mountings so I don't know if you can do something similar without adding length to the shafts.  If not, you could do as I did, and have the lengths extended enough for hand wheels.  In order to avoid alignment problems, I welded 1/2" rod stock to the shafts rather than the 5/8" rod the roller shafts are made from.  I think the half inch size also made hand wheel selection easier.  I ended up using 4" hand wheels I bought from Grizzly Industrial.
While modification is involved, removing the 3 rollers in question from your table and taking them to a local welding shop shouldn't be too difficult.  It certainly would solve your problem.  Good luck.  Jim  

Thanks for letting us know what the problem is.  Please let us know what APQS factory did to repair it when the repairs are complete.  Jim 

I added hand wheels to the rollers on the Ult 2 table I rebuilt 12 years ago.  The original Ult 2 table only had 3 rollers, I added the fourth "leveling" roller during the rebuild.  I completely redid the roller mount system, using pillow blocks to mount the rollers.  I welded extensions to the roller shafts on the right ends of the pick-up, backing, and quilt top rollers.  This extended the shafts about 1.5" to 2" beyond the pillow blocks, and provided the necessary shaft length to mount the wheels.
I'm not sure how much your roller shafts extend beyond their mountings so I don't know if you can do something similar without adding length to the shafts.  If not, you could do as I did, and have the lengths extended enough for hand wheels.  In order to avoid alignment problems, I welded 1/2" rod stock to the shafts rather than the 5/8" rod the roller shafts are made from.  I think the half inch size also made hand wheel selection easier.  I ended up using 4" hand wheels I bought from Grizzly Industrial.
While modification is involved, removing the 3 rollers in question from your table and taking them to a local welding shop shouldn't be too difficult.  It certainly would solve your problem.  Good luck.  Jim  

Those "pebbles" do get tedious, don't they?  Photo looks great.
One thing I've never liked about the Lenni tables is the fact the roller rack doesn't have any facility for adjustments.  I made sure when I designed and rebuilt my Ult 2 table, that I could adjust the roller positions some so if I didn't like where they were, I could move them.  There's some adjustment that can be made on the Millie table, but not on Lenni.  I guess you'll just get used to where they are as you use the machine.  Keep up the good work.  Jim

Those "pebbles" do get tedious, don't they?  Photo looks great.
One thing I've never liked about the Lenni tables is the fact the roller rack doesn't have any facility for adjustments.  I made sure when I designed and rebuilt my Ult 2 table, that I could adjust the roller positions some so if I didn't like where they were, I could move them.  There's some adjustment that can be made on the Millie table, but not on Lenni.  I guess you'll just get used to where they are as you use the machine.  Keep up the good work.  Jim

Gfossman:  There's probably a burr on one of the lock screws holes in the hook.  I had the same problem with my Ult2 years ago.  The burr got pressed into the hook shaft and bound the hook to the shaft.  Finally managed to tap it off.  Remove all of the hook locking screws when trying to move it.
I do have a question about your attempted repair.  Why are you trying to remove the hook when you simply need to re-time?  Timing is usually simply a matter of rotating the hook one direction or another, or moving the hook a few thousandths of an inch forward or back.
I would suggest that your try to move the hook back to where it was when you started.  Simply tap straight on the shaft/pin that centers the bobbin in, with a soft hammer and see if you can't get it to move back.  If you get it back in place, try rotating the hook back and forth to press the burr so the hook is movable and then do your timing adjustment.  An alternative would be to tap the hook off the hook shaft.  Again work gently, and try to support the hook shaft so it doesn't move.  If you get it off, find the burr on the hook and polish it off.  Similarly, examine the hook shaft, and polish off any defects that might have occurred from said burr.  Good luck.  Jim