jimerickson

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  1. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from quilterkp in My Dilemma   
    Gail:  I echo what Nigel said.  I had 2 lesser machines before I got my APQS Ult 2, and my Gammill Classic (both used BTW).  My regret is that I bothered with the lesser machines to begin with, and that I wasted a lot of money on them.  The first line long arms are industrial machines that just don't wear out, so you can be confident with the purchase of a used one.  Jim
  2. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from quilterkp in Long Arm reviews   
    Bing:  If you think you will quilt professionally, do yourself a favor, and only consider the following manufactures:  A-1 Elite, APQS, Gammill, Innova, Nolting, or Prodigy.  They are industrial quality, and all offer good product support.  As far as repairs go, you probably won't need any.  I don't know too much about the Innova or the Prodigy, but the others are pretty simple and straight forward so most of the service needed you can do yourself.  Jim 
  3. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from quiltmonkey in My Dilemma   
    Gail:  I echo what Nigel said.  I had 2 lesser machines before I got my APQS Ult 2, and my Gammill Classic (both used BTW).  My regret is that I bothered with the lesser machines to begin with, and that I wasted a lot of money on them.  The first line long arms are industrial machines that just don't wear out, so you can be confident with the purchase of a used one.  Jim
  4. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from quilterkp in Squaring Up Wonky Quilt   
    Kathy:  I would have insisted that the owner deal with the too small backing.  I would never square a quilt, but then I don't bind, If I did, I guess I'd have to trim it.  Don't know anything about binding charges.  Jim
  5. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from quilterkp in Hi-Tech Inbonded Quilting thread   
    The cones are smaller than I'd like, but will work and probably suit a lot of hobby quilters more than the larger ones I like.  The weight of the thread you're proposing better suits our usage.  As far as pricing goes, I really have no idea what your production cost might be.  All I can say is that I use YLI Longarm Professional most of the time, and buy it for about $8 a 3000 yd cone.  There would have to be something really special about your thread to get me to pay significantly more than that, so for the 600 m cone you intend to offer, a price of $3 or less would seem competitive.
  6. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from quilterkp in Freddie or Lucy? Which one is the best & why?   
    I use my channel locks all the time.  I use the horizontal to baste down the top when mounting the quilt.  I SID with them both if the piecing is really square.  Sometimes I will cross hatch with them.  I use the vertical down the side of the top to keep the quilt square.  I also use the vertical to maintain the machine position as I roll the quilt, and I use both for piano keys.  Like Connie, if I have a vertical or horizontal line I want straight, I use one of the locks.  I really wouldn't be without them.  As some of you already know, they were important enough that I went to the trouble of fabricating a set for Zelda, my Ult 2.
  7. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from AnnP in Roller Brakes   
    Ann:  My Zelda, didn't come with roller breaks originally, but since I built my custom table, I built a set.  They aren't like APQS's, but they work the same way-put pressure on the roller and keep it from turning.  I originally used the non-skid strips you put on your bathtub to keep from slipping, but recently had to replace some, and decided to try Velcro hook.  It failed quickly.  I've gone back to bathtub strips.  They hold better and last longer.  Next time one of your's fails give the tub strip a try.  The adhesive seems to be much stronger.  Jim
  8. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from Wendy-ON in Tips For New Long Arm Owner?   
    Pati:  You can relax.  APQS customer support is great.  They'll help you with anything that might come up.  The machines themselves are quite simple and easy to service yourself.  Before you get involved with buying all sorts of gadgets, your probably should get used to the machine.  Then you'll have a better idea of what you need to change, and what's OK for you.  I am with qltnbe on the extended base however, you'll want one to do ruler work.  Exactly which one to get will require a little research.  Good luck.  Jim
  9. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from Gail O in Tips For New Long Arm Owner?   
    Pati:  You can relax.  APQS customer support is great.  They'll help you with anything that might come up.  The machines themselves are quite simple and easy to service yourself.  Before you get involved with buying all sorts of gadgets, your probably should get used to the machine.  Then you'll have a better idea of what you need to change, and what's OK for you.  I am with qltnbe on the extended base however, you'll want one to do ruler work.  Exactly which one to get will require a little research.  Good luck.  Jim
  10. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from dbams in Tips For New Long Arm Owner?   
    Pati:  You can relax.  APQS customer support is great.  They'll help you with anything that might come up.  The machines themselves are quite simple and easy to service yourself.  Before you get involved with buying all sorts of gadgets, your probably should get used to the machine.  Then you'll have a better idea of what you need to change, and what's OK for you.  I am with qltnbe on the extended base however, you'll want one to do ruler work.  Exactly which one to get will require a little research.  Good luck.  Jim
  11. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from EmbroPoly in Hi-Tech Inbonded Quilting thread   
    Newbie:  I clicked on your Amazon reference, and saw that what was offered there was traditional spools.  Do you offer your thread on cones?  Most of our machines were designed to take thread off cones, and while a lot of us can use spools, I personally wouldn't be interested unless it's available on cones.  Thanks for letting us know about your product.  BTW, how many colors do you offer?  Regards.  Jim
  12. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from Gator in Bobbin thingy   
    It's called an anti-backlash or "no backlash" spring.  A lot of tension issues come from misbehaving anti-backlash (often referred to as simply "backlash") springs.  When you shop bobbin cases, you will often see the bobbin case offered as "no backlash" which means there is an anti-backlash in it.  It took me a while to realize that "no backlash" meant that there was a spring in the bobbin case, not that there wasn't one LOL.  Jim
  13. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from LinStricker1 in Converting a 12' table to a 10' table - Liberty   
    Just find a good welding shop, take the rollers and the table rails in, and ask them to shorten each piece exactly 24 inches.  Good luck.  Jim
  14. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from Quilta93 in Check Spring Not Moving   
    Melissa:  If you haven't solved this issue yet, my guess is that the check spring is either broken, or out of place (more likely broken).  Remove the tension assembly (there's a set screw at the back of the sewing head that holds the entire assembly in place) and examine it.  There is a small "tail" at the inside end of the take up spring.  It should rest in a slot in the body of the tension assembly.  I think it's broken off, or out of place.  If so buy yourself a new one, take the assembly apart replace the spring, and reassemble.  You can adjust the strength of the spring by turning it before you clamp it down.  Good luck.  Jim
  15. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from Quilta93 in Check Spring Not Moving   
    Melissa:  Your check spring apparently isn't broken.  It might not be as strong as needed, but you can adjust it's tension.  If you find that it still doesn't take up the thread the way it needs to be, remove the assembly and tighten the spring tension.  To do that you need to loosen the set screw on the assembly itself (not the screw that holds it in the sewing head) and rotate the assembly against the spring (clockwise), and then re-tighten the the screw.  Now put the assembly back in the machine.  I've done this on my machines on several occasions as the tension has either slipped, or the spring weakened.  Jim
  16. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from Marie0722 in Batting tape   
    Betsy:  I don't know about tape and sides, but here's what I do.  I just lay pieces of batting together and quilt them down inside the quilt.  I don't tape or sew the batting pieces together at all.  I haven't had any problems with the batting pulling apart or any kind of quilt failure.  The batting pretty much sticks to the quilt fabrics so it isn't difficult to properly place it in the quilt.  Of course the quilting stitches it in place.  Just another thought about using batting pieces.  Jim
  17. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from MaryQuiltsTx in Check Spring Not Moving   
    Melissa:  If you haven't solved this issue yet, my guess is that the check spring is either broken, or out of place (more likely broken).  Remove the tension assembly (there's a set screw at the back of the sewing head that holds the entire assembly in place) and examine it.  There is a small "tail" at the inside end of the take up spring.  It should rest in a slot in the body of the tension assembly.  I think it's broken off, or out of place.  If so buy yourself a new one, take the assembly apart replace the spring, and reassemble.  You can adjust the strength of the spring by turning it before you clamp it down.  Good luck.  Jim
  18. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from dbams in Batting tape   
    Betsy:  I don't know about tape and sides, but here's what I do.  I just lay pieces of batting together and quilt them down inside the quilt.  I don't tape or sew the batting pieces together at all.  I haven't had any problems with the batting pulling apart or any kind of quilt failure.  The batting pretty much sticks to the quilt fabrics so it isn't difficult to properly place it in the quilt.  Of course the quilting stitches it in place.  Just another thought about using batting pieces.  Jim
  19. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from Quilta93 in Birds nest on back - help please   
    I have both an APQS Ult 2, and a Gammill Classic machine that are Intellistitch equipped.  Part of Intellistitch's system is a baste feature.  You can select either a 1/2 inch or 1 inch setting so when you move the machine a stitch is fired at the appropriate interval.  When I used this feature I would get exactly the problem results mentioned here.  Birds nests every once in a while.  It was discouraging enough that I didn't use the feature often.  In the regular stitches per inch mode, if I used the 6 per inch setting I would also occasionally have that problem.  I thought on this long and hard, and eventually it came to me:  stitch length affects tension.  The longer the stitch, the looser a given tension setting would produce, the shorter, the tighter.  To solve the problem, all I had to do was increase the tension when I basted.  Now I do exactly that.  After I complete the baste, I loosen the tension to sew at 10 or 12 stitches per inch I usually quilt at.  Because of this experience, I'm pretty sure the problem you're having is a tension issue.   I think tightening the tension will solve it.  Good luck.  Jim
  20. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from MaryQuiltsTx in Trimming Question   
    Cagey:  I've both sewn down the outer edge, and left it unsewn.  I pretty much leave it unsewn now.  The problem I've encountered sewing it down is that as I quilt, the top seems to get bigger.  I've speculated that this is because the piecing is not pressed tight to the seams, and as you quilt that extra fabric migrates to the pieces and makes them bigger than they first appeared to be.  At any rate as I approach the sewn line at the edge I end up with a "wave" of extra fabric.  In order to avoid the puckers associated with this technique, I have to cut out the edge stitching anyway.  So now I avoid this by just not bothering to sew the edge down until the quilting is done.  Since you're only dealing with a six inch border, that I assume isn't pieced, theoretically there isn't any extra fabric hiding in the seams to move out, so you'd be OK doing this.  Now my entire experience is limited to frame mounted machines, so I don't have any experienced with cabinet mounted ones, and that sewing down the edge might not result in the same problem.  Just my thoughts.
    My experience with trimming is that many quilt judges will knock off for not filling the binding with batting.  They look down their noses at unfilled or quilt top filled, binding.   BTW, I like Linda, never trim a quilt for a customer.  I'll cut excess batting away, leaving a generous allowance for finishing.  Jim
  21. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from Gail O in Birds nest on back - help please   
    I have both an APQS Ult 2, and a Gammill Classic machine that are Intellistitch equipped.  Part of Intellistitch's system is a baste feature.  You can select either a 1/2 inch or 1 inch setting so when you move the machine a stitch is fired at the appropriate interval.  When I used this feature I would get exactly the problem results mentioned here.  Birds nests every once in a while.  It was discouraging enough that I didn't use the feature often.  In the regular stitches per inch mode, if I used the 6 per inch setting I would also occasionally have that problem.  I thought on this long and hard, and eventually it came to me:  stitch length affects tension.  The longer the stitch, the looser a given tension setting would produce, the shorter, the tighter.  To solve the problem, all I had to do was increase the tension when I basted.  Now I do exactly that.  After I complete the baste, I loosen the tension to sew at 10 or 12 stitches per inch I usually quilt at.  Because of this experience, I'm pretty sure the problem you're having is a tension issue.   I think tightening the tension will solve it.  Good luck.  Jim
  22. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from dbams in Birds nest on back - help please   
    I have both an APQS Ult 2, and a Gammill Classic machine that are Intellistitch equipped.  Part of Intellistitch's system is a baste feature.  You can select either a 1/2 inch or 1 inch setting so when you move the machine a stitch is fired at the appropriate interval.  When I used this feature I would get exactly the problem results mentioned here.  Birds nests every once in a while.  It was discouraging enough that I didn't use the feature often.  In the regular stitches per inch mode, if I used the 6 per inch setting I would also occasionally have that problem.  I thought on this long and hard, and eventually it came to me:  stitch length affects tension.  The longer the stitch, the looser a given tension setting would produce, the shorter, the tighter.  To solve the problem, all I had to do was increase the tension when I basted.  Now I do exactly that.  After I complete the baste, I loosen the tension to sew at 10 or 12 stitches per inch I usually quilt at.  Because of this experience, I'm pretty sure the problem you're having is a tension issue.   I think tightening the tension will solve it.  Good luck.  Jim
  23. Like
    jimerickson got a reaction from Cagey in Trimming Question   
    Cagey:  I've both sewn down the outer edge, and left it unsewn.  I pretty much leave it unsewn now.  The problem I've encountered sewing it down is that as I quilt, the top seems to get bigger.  I've speculated that this is because the piecing is not pressed tight to the seams, and as you quilt that extra fabric migrates to the pieces and makes them bigger than they first appeared to be.  At any rate as I approach the sewn line at the edge I end up with a "wave" of extra fabric.  In order to avoid the puckers associated with this technique, I have to cut out the edge stitching anyway.  So now I avoid this by just not bothering to sew the edge down until the quilting is done.  Since you're only dealing with a six inch border, that I assume isn't pieced, theoretically there isn't any extra fabric hiding in the seams to move out, so you'd be OK doing this.  Now my entire experience is limited to frame mounted machines, so I don't have any experienced with cabinet mounted ones, and that sewing down the edge might not result in the same problem.  Just my thoughts.
    My experience with trimming is that many quilt judges will knock off for not filling the binding with batting.  They look down their noses at unfilled or quilt top filled, binding.   BTW, I like Linda, never trim a quilt for a customer.  I'll cut excess batting away, leaving a generous allowance for finishing.  Jim
  24. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from dbams in Batting   
    I have found that wool batting is great for almost any application.  It's light weight, quilts beautifully, and provides really nice loft.  Makes for a lovely quilt.  The only drawback I can think of is that it's more expensive than most other alternatives.  BTW, Hobbs says it shrinks less than their 80/20 cotton poly.  Jim
  25. Upvote
    jimerickson got a reaction from MaryQuiltsTx in loop in stitched random   
    Missy:  The problem you're incurring is probably due to the change in geometry of the thread path due to the new spool position.  You're probably not getting full service from your thread take up spring.  Take a close look at how it moves when you stitch.  If it isn't moving the full rotation, it won't work properly all the time.  The solution would be to change the geometry, or rotate the tension assembly so that the take up spring works with the thread geometry you have with the thread path you now have.  Jim