jimerickson

Sue:  Check and make sure the wheels are properly adjusted.  With the vertical wheels on your Lenni, There was no up/down movement of the wheels because of the weight of the machine.  With the horizontal wheels, if the wheels are not tight, the machine can vibrate up and down.  I'd tighten the wheels until the machine requires a bit more effort to move it.  If you still have up/down bounce when you run the machine, then it's not the wheel adjustment.  If the bounce goes away, then it's the wheel adjustment.  If this solves the bounce problem, then I'd begin to slightly loosen the wheel adjustment, trying it each time until the machine moves with normal effort.  Good luck.  Jim

Well, so far APQS has been great about supporting their older products.  For years there was virtually no difference between one year and  another.  Now with the recent "square" machines I'm not sure what all was changed.  If history repeats itself, no worry.  I have a 25 year old machine, and have had very few problems.  APQS was there when I needed help ( I replaced the needle bar and needle bar bushings on my Ult 2 a few years ago.)  The machine I have is simple enough, and fitted with standard sewing machine parts, so that I've been able to deal with the few issues I've had over the 12 years I've owned her.  The standard parts have allowed me to modify my machine in several areas, which has really given me a custom machine more to my liking than a standard model.  I don't think buying a used machine puts you at risk, even in the long time horizon you suggest.  Just my opinion.  Jim

Well, so far APQS has been great about supporting their older products.  For years there was virtually no difference between one year and  another.  Now with the recent "square" machines I'm not sure what all was changed.  If history repeats itself, no worry.  I have a 25 year old machine, and have had very few problems.  APQS was there when I needed help ( I replaced the needle bar and needle bar bushings on my Ult 2 a few years ago.)  The machine I have is simple enough, and fitted with standard sewing machine parts, so that I've been able to deal with the few issues I've had over the 12 years I've owned her.  The standard parts have allowed me to modify my machine in several areas, which has really given me a custom machine more to my liking than a standard model.  I don't think buying a used machine puts you at risk, even in the long time horizon you suggest.  Just my opinion.  Jim

Well, so far APQS has been great about supporting their older products.  For years there was virtually no difference between one year and  another.  Now with the recent "square" machines I'm not sure what all was changed.  If history repeats itself, no worry.  I have a 25 year old machine, and have had very few problems.  APQS was there when I needed help ( I replaced the needle bar and needle bar bushings on my Ult 2 a few years ago.)  The machine I have is simple enough, and fitted with standard sewing machine parts, so that I've been able to deal with the few issues I've had over the 12 years I've owned her.  The standard parts have allowed me to modify my machine in several areas, which has really given me a custom machine more to my liking than a standard model.  I don't think buying a used machine puts you at risk, even in the long time horizon you suggest.  Just my opinion.  Jim

Try using a steel punch or drift and tap the shaft out.  Hold the assembly in a vice and gently tap on the shaft to knock it out.  Remove the lock screw before you begin just to make sure it's not holding the assembly together.  Good luck.  Jim 

You should be able to unscrew the bolts that hold the machine wheels on by simply using an appropriate size wrench (7/16" I think).  If you have a problem with the axel turning, simply clamp it with vice grips to hold it.  If the bolts are really frozen, it would probably be a good idea to soak them in liquid wrench over night to help unfreeze.

If you're running an IQ and are concerned about breakage, it's probably worth your time to try the Schmetz needles.  In my experience, they don't break as easily as the MR's.  Titanium coating only makes the needle more wear resistant, not stronger, so they wouldn't help.  Jim

I don't know about the price, but if you really want to long arm, I wouldn't start with this.  I'd look for a good deal on an old APQS, Gammill, or Nolting.  Nothing will kill satisfaction/fun long arming like poor equipment.  The "real" long arms are industrial quality machines, so even old ones can be made to work great.  You'll probably have to boost your budget a few hundred dollars, but in the end you'll be much happier.  Just the opinion of someone who's had 4 different long arms.  Jim

Stephanie:  It sounds to me like you have tension issues.  Here's what I suggest: 1) Stop using Glide thread.  I've always had issues with it, and as a beginner I don't think it's where you should start.  After you become comfortable quilting, and adjusting tension, then try Glide.  While you learn, use a strong poly long arm thread like YLI's Longarm Professional.  2)  Tighten your top tension up until the top thread pulls the bobbin thread to the top of your quilt sandwich.  Then begin loosening it until you get a balanced stitch.  3) Study the timing instructions you have for your machine.  Make sure you understand what you're looking at, and how to make adjustments to timing.  It's essential you know how to time if you plan to long arm.  4)  Check the position of the black "finger" the keeps the bobbin basket from turning.  It should have as little engagement in the assembly as it can, and still securely keep the basket from turning.  Too deep an adjustment catches thread,and causes all sorts of issues.
I find that a good bit of both top and bobbin tension produces predictable results.  I've seen a lot of suggestions about tension adjustments that in my opinion, are too loose for good stitch formation.  Mastering tension is of paramount importance.  Start with good strong thread, tight stitches, and go from there.  Hope this helps.  Good luck.  Jim  BTW, oil your hook regularly.  Dry hooks make a lot of noise.

Stephanie:  It sounds to me like you have tension issues.  Here's what I suggest: 1) Stop using Glide thread.  I've always had issues with it, and as a beginner I don't think it's where you should start.  After you become comfortable quilting, and adjusting tension, then try Glide.  While you learn, use a strong poly long arm thread like YLI's Longarm Professional.  2)  Tighten your top tension up until the top thread pulls the bobbin thread to the top of your quilt sandwich.  Then begin loosening it until you get a balanced stitch.  3) Study the timing instructions you have for your machine.  Make sure you understand what you're looking at, and how to make adjustments to timing.  It's essential you know how to time if you plan to long arm.  4)  Check the position of the black "finger" the keeps the bobbin basket from turning.  It should have as little engagement in the assembly as it can, and still securely keep the basket from turning.  Too deep an adjustment catches thread,and causes all sorts of issues.
I find that a good bit of both top and bobbin tension produces predictable results.  I've seen a lot of suggestions about tension adjustments that in my opinion, are too loose for good stitch formation.  Mastering tension is of paramount importance.  Start with good strong thread, tight stitches, and go from there.  Hope this helps.  Good luck.  Jim  BTW, oil your hook regularly.  Dry hooks make a lot of noise.

Twelve years ago, I had a machine shipped from FL to TX.  I used an online shipping service called U-SHIP.  Independent small carriers bid on the job, and you pick the one with the level of service that suits you best.  The process was simple, and I couldn't have been happier with the results.  I don't know whether they are still active, but do a search and check it out.  Good luck.  Jim

Don't think there's much you need to do.  Just clean and oil.  Put on a scrap sandwich and do some quilting.  Check how your stitches are, make any tension adjustments you think necessary, then you should be ready to start quilting.  Jim

Don't think there's much you need to do.  Just clean and oil.  Put on a scrap sandwich and do some quilting.  Check how your stitches are, make any tension adjustments you think necessary, then you should be ready to start quilting.  Jim

Think about what will show under the "gauzy" fabric.  Batting choice might be very important.  Do some experimenting before you commit.  Jim

This is a real deal for any beginner wanting to get into long arm quilting cheap.  The stitch regulator alone cost more than twice the selling price.  After market wheels as well.  I have one like this, and it has served me well for more than 11 years  Great machine.  Jim

I find the electronic vertical and horizontal locks to be invaluable.  You can get along without them, but if you have the option to include them with a purchase, buy them!  Much more valuable than a lot of the other add on's.  I wouldn't want to be without them.  Jim

Missy:  If you have the backlash spring properly installed in your bobbin case, then it's an issue of tension.  You need to tighten cone thread/loosen bobbin thread tension 'til you get a balanced stitch.  If the tension is so much different from magnetic to backlash spring bobbins, I'm guessing you don't have the backlash spring properly installed in your bobbin.  In my experience, removing and reinstalling backlash springs is something I don't like to do.  Getting them properly installed is a bit hit and miss.  I agree with Sue's suggestion of buying a second bobbin case for use with your studio wound bobbins.  Now both my machines have M bobbin systems and they might be more difficult to switch around than the L's.  I don't know.  But for my own convenience I'd invest in an extra bobbin case.  Good luck.  Jim

Patty:  There's a large weight bolted to the front of the Ult 2's (or at least there was on Zelda) to help balance the machine. (I guess most people lifted on the handles, so the machine tipped backwards, opposite yours)  You can remove that weight, I did on Zelda.
I'm guessing your issue is something else though.  I've seen at least one Ult 2, maybe two, with only one table track  -don't know why anyone would remove one of the tracks, but they did.  Do you have two tracks on your table?  Do your machine wheels ride on top of the table tracks?  Are the machine wheels in the carriage, in the slots of the carriage extrusions?  Are the wheels worn so bad that they wobble?  They should not wobble.  Post some photos if you can, and I'll look for things I think might be wrong.  Jim

Another thought.  Are your wheels properly adjusted.  The linear bearings on the Bliss rails only work on horizontal movement, and since you've used it mostly with robotics, the vertical movement may have become impaired over time with poor wheel adjustment.  With Bliss, I think a lot of folks think their wheel issues no longer require attention.  Good luck.  Jim

This is a real deal for any beginner wanting to get into long arm quilting cheap.  The stitch regulator alone cost more than twice the selling price.  After market wheels as well.  I have one like this, and it has served me well for more than 11 years  Great machine.  Jim

iquilt:  What issues are you having?  You may be up against routine maintenance.  I had to replace the needle bar and bushings on my Ult 2, but things do wear out.  I don't think it had anything to do with the M hook.  It was a relatively easy repair.  Jim 

Diagonal is the most difficult.  Just keep practicing, and don't be too critical of your results.  As to tension, tighten the top tension until the bobbin thread is pulled to the top, then loosen it until you get a balanced stitch.  Remember, tension will vary somewhat depending on which way the machine is moving, and stitches per inch.  (more stitches - tighter tension, fewer stitches - looser tension)  Hang in there and keep practicing.  Good luck.  Jim

You might try personal messaging member Zeke.  He seemed to be the Compu-Quilter expert.  He hasn't posted in a long time, so I don't know whether he visits the site often or not.  Hope you get an answer.  Jim

I've made one off brakes for my Ult 2, and use bathtub non-slip strips for both the brake and the roller.  Works pretty well for me.  The strips have adhesive backs and stick right on.  Like I said, my brakes are of my own design, and maybe the Lenni brake system won't permit this material.  Worth considering though.  Good luck.  Jim 

Don't know what you mean by "knocking", but if it's a kind of popping sound, could be a bad needle.  If it's a metallic click, the hook could be hitting the needle too hard.  A couple of thoughts for you.  When you find the problem be sure to let us know.  Might help someone else in the future.  Good luck.  Jim