dbams

A couple of other thoughts.
Is your table level?  Does the machine roll by itself in any direction?  It may have been level when you set it up but could have settled.  
Check to see if any of your cords may be causing drag.
Are you only noticing the drag with round designs?  If so, it may just take some practice.  I have an older Lenni with no computer or bliss and was struggling to get circles instead of squarcles.   Remember, you're trying to make the carriage move in two directions at once - horizontal and vertical.  Start your design smaller and work your way up to larger circles.  Try stitching out a lower case cursive alphabet (or words or your name) since those "designs" would be instinctive (assuming you can write in cursive).
 

Have you disengaged the QP clamp from the belt?  Disclaimer - I don't have a computerized system but have read a lot of posts here and on FB - that's been a frequent suggestion.  
Make sure your wheels are clean.  Check for any threads that might have gotten wrapped up in the wheels. 

This is a real deal for any beginner wanting to get into long arm quilting cheap.  The stitch regulator alone cost more than twice the selling price.  After market wheels as well.  I have one like this, and it has served me well for more than 11 years  Great machine.  Jim

Mine has a metal piece in that groove on the spindle. It’s heavier than wire. It sits in the notch on the bobbins and I assume keeps the bobbin on the spindle. 

I would contact APQS and see if there is a dealer near you that could possibly take your table. Or they might know of someone looking 
for your size table.  

Let me explain a little further. I guess I should have added that this isn't an American flag. It's a school flag that the child has received permission to use in this manner. 

Did you try the phone number or email in the ad?  The seller hasn’t been on here since they posted the ad.
Good Luck
Nigel

Spam reported.
 

iquilt:  What issues are you having?  You may be up against routine maintenance.  I had to replace the needle bar and bushings on my Ult 2, but things do wear out.  I don't think it had anything to do with the M hook.  It was a relatively easy repair.  Jim 

Diagonal is the most difficult.  Just keep practicing, and don't be too critical of your results.  As to tension, tighten the top tension until the bobbin thread is pulled to the top, then loosen it until you get a balanced stitch.  Remember, tension will vary somewhat depending on which way the machine is moving, and stitches per inch.  (more stitches - tighter tension, fewer stitches - looser tension)  Hang in there and keep practicing.  Good luck.  Jim

It does take some practice. You’re making two sets of wheels move in perpendicular directions to go diagonally. Don’t go too slow and hold the handles loosely. Try one hand on a handle and the other on the back of the machine. Look for YouTube videos by whirlsnswirls quilting. She just did a series of 8 videos about pantos and free motion. Take the thread and needle out to practice or warm up for quilting.  
 
Have you looked at the info on APQS website for tension?  There is some good info there. If you’re having tension issues in one direction only, rotating the needle left or right just a smidge may help. 
 
Sue

Reported

Reported, looks like spam.  My apologies if it is not and you have simply misunderstood Tonilyn is selling not buying.

Take a good look to make sure there is not any thread wrapped around the axle.  Could be a bad bearing but I don’t remember anyone ever posting about a seized one before.  Let us know what you find.
Nigel

Spam reported

Spam reported

Spam reported

Hey QP.  How ya doing?  You can reach here for the next few days.  It will reach my email as well.  I'm going to need a little more info to access this problem that you're having.  Zeke.   
 
Thanks Jim. 

You might try personal messaging member Zeke.  He seemed to be the Compu-Quilter expert.  He hasn't posted in a long time, so I don't know whether he visits the site often or not.  Hope you get an answer.  Jim

The Bliss includes two rails, front and back, a new carriage with four M&M wheels, and a new tabletop. The swap-out is easy---about two hours with two people. If you order the 12' Bliss conversion, you'll get everything new from leg to leg so you will only need to have the rollers cut down because everything will be 12' long. You can cut all four rollers or just three if you remove the top front roller. Contact a welder or machine shop for an estimate. You would then need a brake attachment (like the Texas Holdem) for your brake. That would be the easiest and least expensive way to cut the size of the frame. Your 14' rails can be recycled unless you have a use for them. My hubby used them for shelving.

I added Bliss to my 2004 Millie the first year it was available. It was a revelation at the added ease of movement. While Bliss will solve your horizontal movement problems (ball bearings instead of wheels on the rails) you might want to try to solve your present wheel problems first. Correctly-adjusted M&M wheels should work well---are you able to adjust the wheels yourself? They can be made looser or snugged tighter and should be adjusted similarly. Make sure the wheels are causing problems with horizontal movement and not an unlevel or torqued frame, dragging cord, thread around the axles, or build-up on the wheels/rails. Good luck!

The suggestion I've seen most is to cut a piece from an old bike tire tube and slide it over the rails.  If you have a bike shop nearby they might just give you one that's unrepairable.  You could try shelf liner but you'd need a way to attach it without the seam getting caught when you turn the rails - maybe a double sided tape?

I've made one off brakes for my Ult 2, and use bathtub non-slip strips for both the brake and the roller.  Works pretty well for me.  The strips have adhesive backs and stick right on.  Like I said, my brakes are of my own design, and maybe the Lenni brake system won't permit this material.  Worth considering though.  Good luck.  Jim 

The machine heads should be interchangeable on the table frames.  However, you would need to buy/trade the longer rails.  You can contact APQS directly through their website and ask which parts would need to be changed out and what the price of the longer pieces are.  

After a short search, Ive not found a specific LED replacement but made some discoveries that helps to narrow down the search and I am still looking for a LED replacement.  In general the square LEDs appear to be in the $0.50 to $2.50 each.
The LED board is very easy to remove. Loose 1 screw and slide the board out.
A 3 position toggle on the board selects White, UV or OFF.  There are no active components on the board, only LEDs, resistors and a toggle switch.  The simplicity of the board again makes for a very easy low risk LED replacement.
The white LEDs are connected in banks of 3.  If one LED fails the entire bank fails.  See the attached picture showing the white LED.  In my case I have 4 LEDs failed hence a total of 12 LEDs not lit.  With a DVM set in "Diode" mode, I can actually turn on individual LEDs installed on the board and have identified a single LED in each back that has failed.
The LEDs themselves have no identification markings on them to help find a replacement.
The white LEDs appear to be the style of 7.62mm square, using through hole wires and runs from 3VDC. 
The through hole wires  along with the large solder pads make it a very easy LED replacement for someone mildly experienced using a soldering iron and solder wick or solder sucker.  See the attached picture showing the leaded LEDs on the board.
THE UV LEDs are a different style but none of these have failed.  See the attached picture showing the UV bank of LEDs on.
The board is marked with "APQS" so they should have the circuit card design to include the mfr and part numbers for the LEDs should they care to share that information.
If I can obtain LED replacements I will create a "How To" video detailing how to replace the LEDs.
As for my background I have 2 Masters Degrees in Electronics Engineering and 40 years of experience designing electronics and managing the development of high technology systems.  Much my experience was performing detailed electronic design, which this board would be of the simplest example.