Cagey

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Everything posted by Cagey

  1. These posts may help you. https://forum.apqs.com/topic/37371-towa-setting-and-thread-path-for-thread-brandtype/?/topic/37371-towa-setting-and-thread-path-for-thread-brandtype/?hl=%2Btowa%2B%2Bnumbers#entry510651
  2. https://www.apqs.com/bobbin-case-care-and-tension-adjustment/ https://www.apqs.com/how-to-adjust-top-tension-on-apqs-quilting-machines/ https://www.apqs.com/tension-troubles-on-your-quilting-machine-try-these-tricks/ https://www.apqs.com/quilting-the-quilt-stop-stressing-over-tension/
  3. JD, You might try only running the thread through two verses three of the thread guide holes prior to the tension unit. Here are a few links to APQS discussions on tension that may help you; https://www.apqs.com/can-properly-adjust-tension/ https://www.apqs.com/quilting-the-quilt-stop-stressing-over-tension/ https://www.apqs.com/step-by-step-process-for-thread-breakage-problems/ Best of luck to you getting it adjusted. Cagey
  4. I would not worry about purchasing a used Mille with all the bells and whistles. While the lifetime warranty is outstanding, the machines are built to support that warranty. That is to say, they are quality machines. They are designed to run for hours day after day, month after month, and year after year with minimal maintenance. If they were not, you would not see Ultimate I's coming up for sale. If you had to replace the motor on a Millie, it costs $300. A crydom relay costs $118. Laser module $90. A hook assembly is $215. I would ask Angela, and APQS tech support how often they have seen these higher priced items replaced. The side mount vertical cone holder you desire on your Millie costs $90; https://shop.apqs.com/products/product-4036-01-vertical-cone-holder-by-hartley-mfg.asp You will not get digital tension setting on an APQS machine. That being said, after a few times of using your Millie, you will be more than able to manually set your tension. If you normally use the same sized thread, I would hazard to guess you will only have to make minor adjustments to your top tension. A TOWA gauge can help you set your bottom tension. While my DSM has digital tension, I cannot say setting tension on my George is any more difficult. I quarter turn left or right, check the tension, and adjust again. Not that different than increasing the tension by 0.1 or 0.2 on my DSM. Millie will give you a 26-inch throat verses the 20-inch throat you presently have. Millie weighs 46 pounds, while I could not find what your Amara weighs. If you can find a used Millie that fits your budget, I would not be scared of purchasing it. They money you save verses purchasing new, will more than likely offset any warranty savings you would expect in the future. My used George was about half price of new. I purchased a few wear parts, which so far I have not used. I did spend about $600 upgrading the fixed hopping foot to the new interchangeable feet. Other than needles, George has run rock solid. Hopefully some used APQS buyers can share their experiences. With their inputs, you should be able to make a more informed decision as how to proceed. Best of luck. Cagey
  5. Does this indicate that you pulled out the brushes, and then blew out the residual dust? If not, I would suggest doing this. https://www.apqs.com/motor-brush-maintenance-video/ APQS tech support is also a good idea if it does not correct the issue. Best of luck. Cagey
  6. This is from APQS. https://www.apqs.com/flat-quilts-can-still-get-wavy-borders/ If you do an internet search for wavy borders, many point to quilting density being the issue. Juanita Yeager uses 35/65 wool felt in a light color as her bottom batting layer. It makes the quilt stiff, and lays flat. Not something you would want to cuddle up with on the couch though. Not something one could use to fix this issue, but something to try on your next wall hanging. Best of luck coming up with a solution. Cagey
  7. Tri-Flow appears to be motorcycle chain oil. I for one would not use it on my George. It might work, but why take the risk? Plus, I do not believe it would be an easy lubricant to get our of fabric.
  8. Then it would appear the needle up/down needs to be adjusted. I believe this video should help you , https://www.apqs.com/needle-adjustment-led-light-machines-video/ If after watching the video you still have questions, I suggest calling APQS to have all your questions answered. Best of luck.
  9. To trouble shoot, I would test the up/down button on the other set of handles. If the rear up/down button only has the needle do a single movement, then it could be the front switch. Once you have more trouble shooting information, I would give APQS a call. They can direct you to a quick solution. 1-800-426-7233 Best of luck. Cagey
  10. change Text size to 72, and type SOLD. I do not believe you can delete the thread. I for one believe it is helpful to be able to see what previously sold machines asked sales price. It helps both sellers and buyers know somewhat of the going rate. SOLD
  11. I installed a non-APQS LED/black light unit on my George, and have been happy with it. Works great. https://forum.apqs.com/topic/35098-led-light-systems-for-apqs-longarms/?tab=comments#comment-488007
  12. BJ, If you want your post to come back to the top, just post a "bump" message in the original post. If you want to change the price, you can do the same. Though instead of bumping your post to the top, post the new price. Not sure what the "little black tag" is, but you can change the font size to make your update price more noticeable. Best of luck with your sale. Cagey
  13. Jim, You explanation on the tension magnification makes perfect sense. Thank you for sharing. Cagey
  14. Cheeky, Turning your needle could not cause any harm. Are your flat lines when you quilt from the bottom left of the picture to the top right? If so, could it be that you are placing slightly different pressure on your ruler/ruler base that could be causing the needle to be pulled slightly away from the hook? Nigel had suggested in an earlier post to this same type of question to set up a camera to capture your thread path and quilt sandwich to help find the cause of your tension issue. This too would not hurt to help find a solution. As the tension is fairly constant the entire line stitch, once you find the problem it should be fairly easy to correct. Cagey
  15. Call EQ, they can tell you what printers place ink on fabric like commercial manufacturers. When I called them years ago, they asked for my printer name and model number, and told me how it would work. You could also call your local supply store, and see what printer they use to print copies. Get the make and model, and then ask EQ if theirs or your printer would dye the fabric best. You might spend an extra dollar or two on having it printed at Staples, for example, but you are putting in the time to make a quilt, so use the best printer available. Let us know what you find. Best of luck with printing your fabric. Cagey
  16. Alcope, A picture or two of the machine, other items included in the sale, reason for selling, year purchase, commercial or non-commercial use, and a price will greatly assist you with your sale. Best of luck, Cagey
  17. DD, You might increase the font size to 72 for the words SOLD, SOLD, SOLD. Yes it's SOLD! That might catch their eye. Other than that, you just have to remember certain invaluable words of Dave Ramsey about things you can't fix. Cagey
  18. Jim Yes, I did that. Measured it is at 1/16th of an inch towards the throat of the machine. The hopping foot is not exactly flat on the needle plate. Less than the smallest spark plug feeler gauge difference. Maybe a 1/4 of a business card from being flat. The high side is opposite of the throat. I will have to try using a circle template to see how noticeable the start stop point is.
  19. https://handiquilter.com/locations/ Authorized Vac & Sew5233 North Blackstone AveFresno CA 93710United States Phone: 559-439-2560Fax: 559-439-5070Email: vacandsew1@sbcglobal.net
  20. I have a question concerning the true quarter inch foot. I just swapped out my non-changeable hopping foot for the new style (post 2109) interchangeable hopping foot on my George. Do all of your needles come down exactly in the center of your hopping foot? I can get the left-right set in the middle, but the forward-back (into the throat area) is slightly off. The hopping foot is cast metal, and not willing to bend all that easily. If not exactly centered, do you find it to be much of an issue while quilting? If so, what type of shape.....circles? Thank you in advance for the input. Cagey
  21. I found this on the yellow pages. Not sure how accurate it may be. Judy Did It Design 1740 Eastwood Dr, Seguin, TX 78155 (830) 303-4388
  22. Becky, I would suggest you private message SmockingRN if you desire a reply. RN has not visited the site since Aug 2019. If you hover over the posters name, you get their information and you can message them from there too. Best of luck finding what you are looking for.
  23. I might suggest turning off the entire computer and restating it. A restart tends to fix minor glitches on your phone, computer, and other electronic devices. Best of luck to you.
  24. Mid-Arm Quilting, If you do a search for "mid-arm quilting machine" you will find a few differing measurements. Some say a mid-arm is a machine with 12-17 inches of throat space, whereas a long-arm is 18-24 inches. While others will say a mid-arm has a throat space of 16-22 inches, and long-arm machines have a 23+ inch throat. I believe your true question is how large of a quilt can you comfortably quilt on a 12-22 inch throat machine? The smaller the throat space and the lower the throat hight, the smaller quilt area you will have to work in when the quilt is close to fully rolled on the rear roller. Look at the Lenni verses the Millie. The Lenni has a 22" long and a 8" tall throat, while the Millie has a 26" long and 10.5" throat. The Millie will allow you to quilt a larger block without rolling the quilt forward or back, when most coming to the end of the quilt. More area must be important, or APQS would probably not have brought out the Millie 30, with a 30" long and 10.5" tall throat. Hopefully a more experience large quilt quilter can share their knowledge and opinion concerning your question. My opinion would be to suggest purchasing the longest throat and longest table your room can comfortably fit, and your wallet can comfortably afford. I doubt there are many quilters that say they bought too long of a long-arm, while there are probably many quilters that wish they had a longer throat as they approach the end of their quilt. Best of luck shopping. Cagey
  25. Margret, I believe technically George is a longarm, but some may say otherwise. I do not have room at the present time for a longarm. That being said, I have taken a few longarm classes. I have found the machine head weight an issue. From what I have read, the APQS heads seem to be lighter than other machines. When you get the head moving, and want to stop, and then start moving in the opposite direction you will have to overcome the mass and momentum of the machine. More weight, more effort. I am sure you will grow accustomed to whatever machine you purchase, but from my limited experience I liked the lighter head. APQS is very responsive. Yesterday, while changing out the hopping foot on George, Amy was available to answer questions and provide input. You will see other machines advertised on this site. Other brand users will ask questions, and have them answered when possible. I cannot say that other brands will offer that. Finally, I think that APQS machines are built well, and in most cases will last a lifetime. Best of luck shopping.