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Cagey

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Everything posted by Cagey

  1. Richard, Might I suggest taking a few pictures of your Platinum 16, showing all the items included in the sale. Then write up a post why you are selling (New in Box - why?), if you will pack and ship the item (at your cost/buyers cost-you decide), free deliver in X distance from your home, etc. Then on the forum.APQS.com main page, click on the following links to get the are to post your item for sale. APQS Machines - For Sale Used Quilting Machines, middle of top right of page (Big Green Button) Start New Topic. This will allow you to make an original post to sell your item. As you started the post, you will get email updates when someone posts on the thread, so you can answer questions or hopefully accept an offer. Best of luck selling your Husquvarna Viking Platinum 16. Cagey
  2. Linda, It is great to see new members using the forum. I hope to see some of your quilting in the future. Here is a link and the information to Superior Thread, where they address the issue of thread life, both cotton and polyester. While the polyester thread color may fade, it appears that it will not deteriorate as cotton does over the years. Their input may surprise you. https://www.superiorthreads.com/education/what-is-the-shelf-life-of-thread Have a wonderful day. I guess as we stay indoors we have more time to piece and quilt. Cagey How many years does thread last? Q. I have inherited a rather significant thread stash from a friend. It's a grand selection with a wide range of cotton threads and some are even wound onto the old wooden spools that make me think of my grandmother's sewing area. I'm worried about using old thread and having trouble with it as it runs through my machine. How can I tell if the thread is still OK to use? Is there a shelf life or a recommended period of use for thread? A. A good quality thread that is produced today will last much longer than thread which was produced 15 or 20 years ago. Even the best quality cotton thread of a generation ago did not have the advanced processing techniques available to us today and it would probably be best to not sew or quilt with old thread that exists today. However, a high-quality cotton thread that is manufactured today, like MasterPiece and King Tut, will probably be fine to use in 40 or 50 years from now. Why will threads that are manufactured today last longer than threads manufactured 20 years ago? The difference is due to the advancements in spinning, dyeing, and twisting technology and the evolution of genetic engineering better cotton plants. Because cotton is a natural fiber, it will degrade over time. A good test to check whether or not the cotton threads you have been given are OK to use in your machine is to hold about a one foot section between both hands and pull apart. If the thread snaps (you should feel a nice, crisp break), then it is OK to use. If the thread just separates and pulls apart easily (think of pulling a cotton ball apart), we don't recommend using it. As for polyester thread, the color may fade over the years with exposure to sunlight, but there is no evidence that the thread deteriorates like cotton threads, so it's safe to say that synthetic fibers will last longer.
  3. As many individuals may read this thread, I would like to share that all legacy hopping feet are compatible with George, and will fit a George with a legacy split foot. The only issue is viewing area. The legacy Flip Flop Foot, the APQS True 1/4 inch Platform Ruler Foot; as they are round/a complete circle, are fully compatible with a legacy split foot George. The Clog Foot and Sneaker Foot would fit George, but the opening on the foot would face 90-degrees to the left of the normal sit-down viewing area on George. Legacy George still cannot be upgraded with the new quick change hopping foot, as the needle plate is raised using washers to fit the table, thus there is less hight for the hopping foot. The legacy replacement complete quick change bar/foot is still in development stages. Here are two pictures to clearly show the difference between the Clog Foot (non-George machines) and the Saddle Shoe Foot (George).
  4. Cathy, It turned out wonderful. I am sure the will be absolutely pleased with it. Though after looking at it on the bed, she may need to lie down to steady her equilibrium. Outstanding job, thank you for sharing. Cagey
  5. For electrical connections, I would recommend this spray https://www.walmart.com/ip/CRC-5103-Quick-Dry-Electronic-Cleaner-11-Wt-Oz/16817418 Hold the connection in a rag or paper towel to ensure the spray does not drip on the floor or other areas. Wear safety goggles to ensure you do not get any in your eyes. It will not hurt your hands, though it may dry the skin slightly. Hopefully this will fix your issue.
  6. Amanda, You can go to your local hardware store, and purchase a 4-20 screw with an allen wrench head. The allen wrench head screw should be shorter than a normal head screw. You will need a screw long enough to go through the entire needle bar. Then using the hole on the opposite side of the hole you normally secure the needle, with your fingers twist the screw in and then through to the hole that is having issues. If it gets tight and you cannot turn the screw, back it up a little and try again. You are re-cutting/cleaning up the "threads" in the needle bar. Remember, when you tighten the screw to secure the needle, you do not need a large screw driver. Think eye glasses screw driver. Just finger tight. When you change needles on your DSM, I hazard to guess you only use your fingers to tighten the screw. Using this method, I doubt your needle has ever come lose or fallen out while you were sewing. If you want a new needle bar screw today, buy a 4-20 nut along with the screw. Put the nut on the screw, and twist it all the way down to the head. Then cut the screw off to match the length of the original APQS screw. You can use a hacksaw or a Dremel tool with a cutting disk. Then turn the nut off the screw to clean up the threads that were damaged when you cut the screw length down to size. Make sure you turn the screw back and forth before you finally remove it from the screw. Only the end of the screw threads were damaged, so that is the area that needs to be fixed by rotating the nut back and forth. If the hole is totally stripped, you can use the hole on the other side to secure the needle. Remember, only finger tight, so you do not have the same issue with this hole. https://forum.apqs.com/topic/36523-needle-bar-replacement/?tab=comments#comment-513235 I hope this fixes things for you. Cagey
  7. There is someone working the situation after seeing a need. Hopefully they will be available soon.
  8. I have never done one since I have a George, but Dawn should be able to get your started in the right direction. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T0jNFen--eo All of the APQS YouTube videos; https://www.youtube.com/user/APQSQuilting/videos If you ever have a question, there is probably a YouTube video or two that will address the subject in question. I wish you the best of luck. Cagey
  9. Dave, Why not remove the shelves and install something like this with either a wood or aluminum rod so you can easily unroll the batting from the roll as needed. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-White-Heavy-Duty-Shelf-Bracket-and-Rod-Support-14317/206086899 You could also install this upside down, and put a bolt with a wing nut through the outer hole to hold the rod. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-18-in-x-16-in-White-Heavy-Duty-Shelf-Bracket-14835/202824731 I store my batting on the roll placed on the floor, with no issues. Best of luck to you coming up with a solution.
  10. LeAnne, Just to let you know K. Szymaszek last visited May 2016. You can see that if by hovering over the poster's name. Hopefully someone can help you find the pattern.
  11. Maybe Evelyn can help you. https://www.pinterest.com/pin/46021227420733492/
  12. Here is a link to APQS's latest post concerning tension and other stitch issues that might help everyone. https://www.apqs.com/quilting-the-quilt-fixing-thread-snarls-and-g-r-r-owls/?utm_source=newsletter&utm_medium=email&utm_content=quilting+the+quilt+fixing+thread+snarls&utm_campaign=newsletter.dec.12.19
  13. Just to help you out. Posted April 29 No, it is sold and I can’t seem to figure out how to get it removed from here, my apologies
  14. Maybe these will help. https://forum.apqs.com/topic/40960-batting-poking-through-on-back/ https://forum.apqs.com/topic/21254-what-exactly-causes-batting-pokies/
  15. Cindy G, and Nyon, It sold 9/16/17 in the post. Best of luck finding a machine.
  16. First, it is helpful if you can show pictures for both the top and bottom of the exact same quilting area if you have tension issues. I am guessing the pictures are both top, as they are pieced. Could be wrong. In you second picture, you have two large gap skipped areas that appears to me to be over thicker seam area. It looks like they are in areas of a long run that you might have been moving faster, which might have caused the skipped stitches. In the corner of the blue fabric, I would say the stitches are better because you were moving the machine slower over the start/stop for the point you quilted. When Sue suggested a larger needle, I would have done it in small increments... 3.5 to a 4.0 and then a 4.5. Here is Superiors thread reference guide. It is for their specific threads, but a 40 wt thread should be in the ballpark of what you need. https://storage.googleapis.com/vw-superiorthreads/docs/longarm-machine-thread-reference-guide.pdf 14 = 3.0, 16 = 3.5 18 =4.0 , 19 =4.5, 21 = 5.0 Superior says use an 18 or 4.0 needle for 40 wt. polyester thread. Here are some links for APQS that may help you too. https://www.apqs.com/a-guide-to-needles-for-longarm-quilting-machines/ https://www.apqs.com/what-threads-can-i-use-with-my-apqs-machine/
  17. A price, when purchased, why being sold, accessories, and where it is located may assist with you sale. Best of luck to you.
  18. Are you sure you have the needle in the proper direction? Most Domestic Sewing Machines (DSM) use a needle that has a flat side on the shaft that faces the rear of the machine. If you put the needle in backwards, when you tighten the retaining screw it may not hold the needle securely. Refer to your DSM manual. If you do not have the manual, the long grove should face where the thread comes down and goes through the "eye" of the needle. http://www.garmentsmerchandising.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Anatomy-of-Sewinmg-Machine-Needle.jpg Hopefully this works to fix your situation.
  19. Ok, as it is the backing, then the bobbin tension is winning. Thus you have to tighten the top tension or loosen the bottom tension. A technique I have learned is to write your name in cursive in the overage areas of the quilt sandwich to check your tension settings. You normally have to change directions when you write your name, and you have already learned the muscle memory to write it well.
  20. If the picture you provided is the top of the quilt sandwich, then the top tension is winning the battle with the bottom tension. That means you need to loosen the top tension to allow the bobbin thread to pull the top thread to the center of the quilt sandwich. Conversely, you can tighten the bobbin tension to help adjust your overall tension. I suggest calling APQS in the morning, so they can listen to you quilt and you can describe your problem. They can advise you to skip some of the thread path holes to loosen your top tension if the disk tensioner is real loose at this time. Best of luck to you.
  21. APQS is updating their hopping foot shaft, so that in the future only one screw will be required to change feet. I know this, as I have been delaying updating my fixed George hopping foot bar for this reason. At the beginning of the year, APQS said they would have the new bar and feet out by the third quarter of 2019. Unfortunately this time frame has come and gone. The APQS store is not giving an updated time frame at this point. This is reflected on the store link by specifying (Legacy) prior to 2019 on the kits. Unless things change soon, the note will have to be updated to read "prior to 2020"
  22. https://shop.apqs.com/products/product-2779-02-interchangeable-foot-kit-stand-up-machines.asp Those should work.
  23. You cannot delete the post, but you can go to the first posting you made and then "edit" it. Put sold in the title should help the best, as many readers will not read every post to see that the item was sold. If you leave the price, it helps future sellers know what the going rates.
  24. JZB, I have used the pre-wound bobbins, with great success. Just as I have had great results with my own wound bobbins. Brand/type, I believe is purely a personal opinion. As you have a L size bobbin, you can inexpensively pick up extra bobbin cases so you can have them set for different bobbin and threads. I would suggest you look into getting a TOWA gauge, or learn how to properly set the bobbin tension by feel.
  25. Clover or Collins water soluble markers https://quiltersapothecary.com/collections/all/marking-tools They have some spray/applicators to help remove the marking. Blue seems to work well.
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