ffq-lar
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Posts posted by ffq-lar
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Here's a quilt with many National Park patches that travels with the couple in their RV. She sewed them down (I think she said she used a Featherweight) and I couldn't stitch on them with my Millie, but I echoed them once. If it will be a wallhanging, use a heavyweight double-sided fusible to attach them if they're too thick to stitch down.
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- dbams and quiltmonkey
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Nosy me wanted to help your sale (what a great price!) by noting that this is a "Green Millennium". Those are traded-in machines that are gone over completely at APQS, worn parts replaced, spiffed up, everything checked out, etc. So while the age of the body and some parts is 20 years, and seeing that she had a recent spa treatment, it's lots better than a used machine of the same vintage that hasn't had that treatment. Good luck with your sale!
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Hi Nancy Jo! Use Retro Clean to soak the hankies. It's not expensive and easy to find. It takes hot water and if there are heavy stains, more than one treatment. Works like a charm! If you haven't seen (Quilting Vintage) on Facebook, join to see lots of projects and advice for backing and stabilizing the hankies for use in quilts. Fun!
- dbams and quiltmonkey
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If Jim's suggestion didn't solve the problem, the case is jammed probably because there is thread snarled around the spindle. If you advance the hand wheel, does the needle go up and down? Can you see any stray thread in the area? Before deciding to remove the bobbin assembly (which might be a last resort) do a saturation with WD-40. Remove the needle plate and the needle so you can spray from all directions, put down a cloth to catch dips, and spray from the top and from the front. If the hand wheel moves, advance a couple of turns and re-spray. If it doesn't, try to rock it so you can get the WD-40 dispersed. That solvent will soften the thread---sometimes it takes a couple of hours and some re-application. All you need is enough threads to soften and snap so you can get the case out. Then remove any threads left in the bobbin assembly area and in the case. Check the case for round--it may be warped, depending on how forceful you need to be to get it out. Good luck!
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I will point out that this is a "green Millennium" which is a kind of hybrid that was developed by APQS. They would take a traded-in Ultimate machine, strip it and rebuild with the same components as a regular Millennium, selling them for about $3000 less than a new Millie. Old components that were the same as the new Millies were kept, but electronics and SR added. The Ultimates were prior to 2000 and the Millennium after 2000. Not that it matters, since you have it priced attractively, but you don't want a buyer to claim that the year of manufacture was incorrect if you don't point out the history or maybe weren't aware of it. I believe APQS was doing this starting in 2005 but I may be wrong. Good luck with your sale---great price and someone will be so happy to get this! Here's a link to answers from 2005. https://forum.apqs.com/topic/999-green-milli-and-freedom-sr/
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That's a great price---even if it needs some work, everything is repairable/replaceable. Please let us know what you decide. Exciting!
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Contact APQS with the serial number (it's older than 20 years because the Millie debuted in 2000 and the Ulties were no longer branded with that name after). Before you do, get specifics from the owner---serial number, how many owners, how much wear/use, last service, show that it's working now and hopefully been maintained correctly, any upgrades like new wheels, new table, etc. And look elsewhere for comparable models and pricing. Remember that any you find on line haven't sold so either there isn't a market or they are over-priced. Also contact the closest APQS rep/dealer and ask for help. What are they asking? If it's more than $3,000, I'd be very careful and do some research. There's an Ultimate l on the longarm University machines-for-sale site for $2000 but since they reduced it from $4000, it may be a desperation sale. These are non-stitch-regulated workhorses and you can find bargains out there. Good luck!
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I do this about twice a year--mostly for my hand-quilting friends. I charge a half-cent per square inch with a $50 minimum for this. But if you want, you can charge her by the hour. It may take you longer to load it than to stitch it, but you still need to be paid for your time. A moderate-sized quilt may take 2 hours total, so the $50 minimum is fair. No way is it a 10 minute job. Attached is a diagram of my quilting path for basting. It's a grid without long verticals and is very fast. Use a heavier, contrasting poly and a long stitch-length for ease of stitch-removal. Don't cross at the corners so the fabric can be manipulated by the quilter if necessary. Don't let your friend make the decisions ---she doesn't know what's involved. This technique and attaching binding on the longarm are services you can advertise. Not everyone offers them.
- quiltmonkey and dbams
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If this is a question about dis-connecting Quilt Path, post on the separate Quilt Path header. Find it under Longarm machine quilting training on the home page, then Computer aided quilting, and then click on APQS Quilt Path---or join the Quilt Path Facebook group for lots of help. If this is a question about channel locks (your question is a bit vague) look in your manual for the correct procedure under "channel locks". Good luck!
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Hi new owner! Please stop everything until you can figure this out. You're hitting something (obviously) and need to remedy that before you gouge your hook assembly so badly that it will need to be replaced. The broken needle probably jammed your needle bar and now you may need to retime. The first step in timing is to check your needle depth at its lowest point. Sometimes adjusting the out-of-place needle bar is all you need to do. Videos are on-line and printed instructions for retiming are in the manual--it looks daunting but is pretty straightforward. And doing it correctly is a great confidence booster. You said you were basting down the side---towards you? Probably the needle jam displaced the needle bar enough so that stitching towards the front made the needle flex into the hook. Check the hook for gouges or burrs caused by the needle hitting it, which can be buffed out by following the instructions from APQS. If the hook assembly is too damaged to work (you'll have bad stitches and breaking thread) it will need to be replaced. It all sounds like gloom and doom, but it's just a matter of knowing where to look and everything is repairable---most repairs you can do yourself. I wish you much good luck in getting to know your machine. You'll be a pro in no time.
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You are doing the right thing. Douse it again with WD-40 and let it sit for a while. That will soften the thread even more. Continue to pull out the visible threads with tweezers and try to rock the assembly manually. If necessary, douse again and let it sit overnight, keep working, and you should be able to loosen things up. When the assembly turns, start it at a slow speed to twirl out any thread that's left. Make sure you haven't blown a fuse with the jam. Wipe out and re-oil well with machine oil. Good luck, Jacque.
- dbams and quiltmonkey
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Make sure in stitch-regulated mode that you have advanced the spi past the minimum. It won't stitch in SR at seven spi but in manual it will. Hoping that it's this easy fix!
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You have several things to look at---it doesn't have anything to do with the brake. First, make sure the backers you load are perfectly on-grain. This can be done with tearing the fabric instead of rotary cutting. If it's always on one side, your rollers may not be perfectly parallel or level. Just a small bit high on the right side will cause that side to roll tighter, which magnifies with every advance. Use a long level to check for horizontal level. Then adjust the bolts that attach the roller to the frame until the roller is level. Unfurl your leaders when you check for level so you are on bare metal and not the canvas. The front roller can also be off as far as distance between the take-up rollers. If the right side is farther out, it will roll tight on the right side. The solution is looking at the bolts that fasten it to the frame. You need to count the bolt-threads on each bolt, left and right. If the numbers are off---make them match. You can also count the bolt-threads on the back roller attachments if you don't have a long level. Finally, your leaders may be un-square/off. There are lots of tutorials that show how to fix warped or saggy leaders. Usually having (or making) a straight edge, then pinning the leaders together works well. Pin them, spritz them with plain water, tighten them, and let them dry. Hoping this is helpful!
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To make-do until a more elegant solution comes along, elevate the front part of the rod/yardstick by the width of your roller, which is 2". Glue up layers of cardboard or cut a piece of wood into a block that is 2" high. Make two and fasten them (glue, tape, whatever) to the underside of the front part of the rod. Position so the blocks sit right on top of the front roller. If you want to get fancy, line them with rubberized shelf liner or a cut-up rubber glove so they are less likely to slip. Good luck!
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I have my customers put the parts in a seal-able bag (like a big Zip-loc) and drop it in front of my garage. I put out a wire bin on a small table that is under cover. We may talk at a distance. They put any instructions in the bag. I wear protective gloves, wipe the bag thoroughly with a disinfectant, then it goes into an un-used, un-heated shop for three days (or longer). I phone to discuss choices of thread and quilting. After quilting, she picks up in the same way and she uses whatever method she's comfortable with to assure it's safe. I'm in Washington State where people are advised to disinfect anything that comes into your living spaces. And I have a hubby with some lung problems so I'm not taking any chances. So far no one has balked and everyone is dropping off. I do four quilts a month so it isn't a parade of customers. One thing that stuck with me was a statement that "if you overreact, you'll never know if it was the right decision. If you under-react, you will know immediately". Stay well and safe. And if you decide it's necessary to stop all contact, provisions are in place to provide benefits to self-employed workers.
- quiltmonkey and Gail O
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With all batting, the scrim goes next to the backer---so it faces down. With that said, most scrimmed cotton batting has the scrim buried within the layers. The fibers are needle-punched into the scrim (a sheet of very strong and very thin polyester) and the key to placement is the direction of that needle punching. Your machine needle should go through in the same direction as the needle punching. So look at the batting---one side is smoother and has tiny visible holes (dimples). The other side will be rougher-looking and a bit raggedy (pimples). So the rule is "show your dimples---up---and hide your pimples---down". Another way to tell is most batting is folded with the "good" side out, just like fabric. That good side goes up and the uglier side down---look for the center crease/fold line. Make it a mountain instead of a valley when it's loaded. Poly batting may have a chemical scrim---an application of a chemical that bonds the poly fibers on only one side. That side feels much rougher and it will be placed next to the backer. Hope this is helpful.
- quiltmonkey, lkl, Plumpurple and 2 others
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Two options for you---spend the $$ to convert to the M size bobbin. Or wind your own (or purchase pre-wound bobbins) using thinner thread. There is no rule that the thread weight, or even color, has to match top and bobbin. BottomLine (Superior) thread is poly and 60 weight---and designed to be used as bobbin thread using other weights of thread as top thread. The pre-wounds hold 119 yards of thread. If you wind your own, probably 90-100 yards will load, depending on the tension and how full they are wound. With a 3000 yard cone of BL, you can wind 30 bobbins at 100 yards each. The cost for a cone is wholesale $7.90 and retail $14.49. If you do the math you'll find out how much a bobbin will cost in just materials. If you can figure out how many yards you load when winding say a 40 weight thread to match what you're using as top thread, then figure the math using the cost per spool/cone, you can see if the thinner thread bobbins are more economical. I know they will last much longer. I do custom quilting almost exclusively and find a bobbin of BL will last me close to an hour of medium-speed stitching. If you opt to try thinner thread, ask opinions here for what colors blend the best and which neutrals are good to start out with.
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Are they skipped stitches (where there are needle holes where they should be and long jump stitches between) or long stitches (no needle holes)? If no needle holes, it's a problem with your encoders. Determine which direction the stitches are mainly skipping---horizontally or vertically. Vertical means check the encoder on the carriage. Make sure it's making good contact. Horizontal is the one on the rails. Ditto for that one. If there are needle holes, the bobbin thread is not being picked up. That can be remedied by several tips. For a quick fix if you're on a deadline, go up a needle size. A heavier needle will flex less---needle flex when stitching will push the needle away from the sweet spot and leave you with holes where the stitches should be. Sometimes turning the needle eye slightly to the left or right can make it easier for the hook to pick up the bobbin thread (that makes a bigger area/ better angle at the scarf), but that is a temporary fix. After you finish the project, go through the timing check-list. Check for needle depth first, then go through the rest. You may not need to fully re-time, but that might be the final solution.
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Hi MB! Those were the days, huh? What a great group! Through our forum friendships I got to personally meet Barb Mayfield (Washington like me), Mary Beth (Missouri), Shana (Alaska), Rita Armstrong (North Carolina), Dell D (Florida), Myrna Ficken, Linda Alexander (remember her?), Dawn, almost the entire APQS sales group and a couple of techs, an entire group of owners from the Portland,OR area---we started a great longarming group--and many sisters I've never met. Yes, we had a few clunkers (remember Michaelalan---the dismissive man-splainer?) and cried along with family when we lost a few. I miss the old forum but I love FB and enjoy seeing lots of the old forum friends there.
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Barb--serendipity! I have this issue in hand and will happily send it to you without charge. I cleaned my sewing room a month ago and found all my back issues to put aside and loan to members of my longarm group. Look for an email from me.
- Norma H and Plumpurple
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The number of quilters with longarms and mid-arms has risen like crazy in the past four years in my area. If you can spend the five to seven years left to sharpening your skills while taking a few customers here and there, go for it. It hasn't impacted my business, but I do primarily custom and have little competition. My quilts come from those who save the big ones and the special ones for me---I do 4 per month and sometimes struggle to get them done. Mine is a different situation so if you are able to analyse the competition, see if you can figure out a niche market. Are there lots of overall/e2e quilters so you'll be competing with them? Are there Modern quilters looking for a kindred-spirit longarmer? Is the custom market fully covered? Also, would you be happy to purchase a used machine to start out and upgrade to a new w/computer later? Please remember as well, the longarmer who advised you only has her best interests at heart---not yours. Though her advice may be spot-on, don't be deterred until you do some more research.
- Gail O, quiltmonkey, mamu and 2 others
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Prep your binding the usual way. Make sure the edges of the quilt are square and if not, mark the line where you want the binding to attach. Stitch on the binding just as you would on your domestic. I leave a tail, pin ahead a bit to keep the binding lined up, and use a ruler to stitch a quarter-inch from the edge of the binding. Make the corners using the same technique you normally use. I sew within a quarter-inch of the corner, sew off onto the batting and break the thread. Flip and fold back the binding to make the miter, and continue along the next side to the corner. Continue until you reach the original side and leave a tail for attaching the ends. You can remove the quilt to finish the binding join on your domestic. Or I do the "invisible join" while it's loaded. It's finicky but do-able. Hoping this was helpful. I can bind a Queen (including the join) in a half-hour and offer this as a service to my customers for a $40 flat rate--any size.
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If you're still using the original wheels from 2005, the bearings may be bad on one or more. I hope you have talked to APQS already. No fun to have to plow instead of glide!.
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On the Towa what setting do you use for your bobbins?
in Gone Quilting...Chat About Anything
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Your tension is too high---try 180 and loosen the top tension as well. You only need it tight enough to make nice stitches---tighter is definitely not better. I set at 180 for 50 wt and 60 wt thread and 150 for Microquilter (100 wt) and invisible. Match your top tension to your bobbin tension. Test-stitch on a sample to find the sweet spots where stitches are balanced. When you get good stitches with a certain combo, pull the top thread through the needle and to the left. See how much your tension spring deflects. Make a chart that with X top thread and Y bobbin thread, the spring deflects from 10 o'clock/resting to 9 o'clock pulled---or whatever. Eventually you'll get a feel for how hard it is to pull the top thread. Your small backside stitches may be cured or there may be something else going on. Tiny stitches can be a stitch-regulator problem or if you're using a ruler, you're pressing too hard. Good luck!