ffq-lar

Good points, but a couple of hints. You can remove the front take-up roller if you exclusively float your quilts. It won't enlarge your stitching field, which is set by the frame configuration. You won't be able to stitch any closer to you than you do now. But it may mean easier access since you don't have to lean over the roller. Micro-drive handles are available for APQS machines. They are helpful for microstitching and control. They attach below the regular handles, which are loosened and pushed up out of the way. The micro-handles can then be used for ruler work and they independently pivot up out of the way, so you can stitch using one handle. They keep your hands very close to the top. The down-side is not ready/easy access to your controls, but in SR mode, it's not an issue. I suppose it's all about what you get used to and how easy a work-around is for perceived issues. I baste in manual with speed slow and head moving so I make 1/4" stitches. Or if I'm basting the sides, SR on and longest stitches. APQS innovates all the time, so maybe your wish-list will eventually be a reality.

Ooops!---you posted a Freedom and it's obviously a Liberty. And another ooops!---not a 2015 model either (closer to 2005 looking at the silver finish, the badges, and the speed control).. Alter/correct your title to avoid confusion and good luck with your sale.

My engineer hubby will sell you a stylus for $12, which includes shipping in the USA. He'll need to know the brand of board you have and what your bracket (holder) looks like. My email is lindarech@comcast (dot) net if you're interested.

Yes, Ron and Sharon are transferring ownership to Patricia Ritter. Ron is still making the boards but has stepped away from order fulfillment personally. The owners of Miracle Chalk have also sold their business to her. She is a force of nature and deserves all the success she has achieved. Surprisingly, both R&S and Miracle Chalk owners are here in Olympia---and members of my quilt guild. I'm rubbing shoulders with quilt legends!

No, you'll need a different stylus, but can use the same bracket. The boards are wonderful. I use the Baptist Fan quite a bit.

I have a friend interested---how long are the rollers (she needs 12' or 10') and do you have the service records? The serial number is on the throat and providing that would confirm the year made. It looks like a very well-maintained machine. Also, for easier communication (not just for me) please provide a way to contact you beside a message here---phone number or email would be very helpful. Good luck with your sale.

No one has replied, so I will gingerly step in and give you my take on the problem. Adding a computer to your machine does not mean that you should raise your prices above the industry standard, especially for overall designs. The customer doesn't care how you get there or what you use---they are interested in the finished product and don't want to pay extra for computerized when someone else can do the same thing for less. I'm talking about pantos/overalls, not custom. Also, you have "niched" yourself. You have inadvertently sent a message to your customers that you are out of the panto/overall business by showing lots of custom quilting. Custom=$$$$ to everyone. Make some simple quilt tops and quilt them with overalls or a panto and show them everywhere. Remind them that you're still around and offering the less-expensive quilting. I think your customers perception of what you offer and your pricing has been muddled---that you are now too expensive. To get them back in the fold, use your favorite method to contact them and offer a blow-them-away deal on pantos and overalls "exclusively for you, my favorite customer". Any size quilt up to a Queen (you supply the limit for dimensions) with a choice of three pantos/computerized or freehand overall (not a big meander) for $100. This will price you at less than a cent-and-a-half, but will give your business a boost. They will dig out all the big UFOs and maybe get one done as a Christmas gift. Limit the number (like first 20 quilts) and limit the month---like November only or first two weeks in January. See if that will nudge them back to you. Good luck---it's disheartening when the customers you think are friends stop becoming customers.

I'll jump in here with some info. It spans and sits on the rollers so one made for a Millie won't fit a Lenny. The span between the rollers is different and since it snaps on the leveler roller for stability, the roller diameter must be the same. If it has the wheel, you can make many sizes of concentric circles from the front. If it doesn't have the wheel, it's a holder for pattern boards (blocks only) and allows you to trace the boards from the front. The arm attaches to the head without drilling any new holes. If she doesn't have the original instructions, we can send them to the new owner.

I sent my 2004 Millie on a trip to Iowa in January of 2015. Before that I quilted 90 quilts a year on average and had it gone over by Barb Mayfield once, so I was concerned it was overdue. The only issues I had were with my SR and my chirp, which had been silent for about 6 months. I replaced the hook assembly a few weeks before I sent it and taped a huge note to the head telling them not to replace that part. Not much was wrong. Brushes were replaced, rocker arm swapped out for the latest replacement, thorough going-over of everything else. It was $600 plus shipping both ways. There was a hiccup concerning shipping but it was all resolved. If you have lots of hours on your machine and are concerned about worn parts, a spa treatment is a good idea. I echo the suggestion that you have a dealer come to you if you have one close. Mine was gone for two weeks.

Great designs, Diane! The quilt is beautiful.

I sold all my King Tut after struggling for a long time to get it to behave. I sold it all to a friend with a Gammill and it works great for her. I have such a big inventory of So Fine and BottomLine that I'm not ready to build up another line, though I do like Glide. My style for custom is to not overwhelm the piecing so thicker and "showy" thread isn't chosen very often. I am building up my stock of Invisafil for blenders--works great for fillers and micro-stitching, and looks good.

I started out the same--slow to build and most of my business (still) comes from my guild and word-of-mouth. Expect that you will double your business every year until you reach the level you are comfortable with. And a good piece of advice is to try to determine what your max number of quilts per month might be. Many longarmers find they overextend themselves, so schedule the quilts and you can give your customers an idea of when their quilt will be returned. Your talent and good work will take you far. Congrats, Tami!

I would discount anything your customer "heard" since if this was a regular problem it would be all over every quilting blog, website, and quilter's Facebook. The quilting world is huge, but the communication is instant and widespread because of the internet. I have several small pieces with wool batting, but they are seldom washed and done carefully when they are. I've never heard of it nor have I had any customer issues with wool batting. As far as the wool coming through the stitching holes after washing, I imagine that I'd be more concerned about felting rather than bearding when a quilt with wool gets frequent washing. Just my two cents and worth about that much!

Hi pj3799. If you want to sell your machine and fabric you'll need to add some contact information and location. PM on this site is cumbersome and it's much easier if you add an email address. Are you outside the USA? That would make a big difference to someone in the States if they were interested in a purchase.

Very effective quilting designs. The quilt is beautiful!

Read the care and shrinkage information on the package of batting. That 80/20 blend will shrink because it's mostly cotton. Two percent shrinkage listed on the package will result in a two-inch shrinkage in a 100" square batting. If the fabrics have been pre-washed, opt for a 100% poly batting, which will have easy-care instructions, great drape, and stay soft after many washes. You can also follow instructions on batting packages for how to pre-shrink the batting if you want to use a blend. Take care with it and make sure you start with a large-enough piece of batting to take the shrinkage into account. And of course, include laundering instructions on the label so there's no question about care. I try to educate my customers about the good uses of poly batting, including the fact that when laundered and spun in the machine, the poly batting is almost completely dry when it goes into the dryer. That means that the dryer is only working long enough to dry the fabric and not the sopping wet cotton batt trapped inside. That cuts down a huge amount of wear on the fabric caused by heat and tumbling until the whole thing is dry. This is great for utility quilts and floor quilts that need a lot of laundering, since it really extends the life of the quilt.

I think Karen was asking because your post is so vague. You might not entice a potential seller to answer if you aren't a bit more specific. Posting what you can afford will go a long way and definitely help determine what size and vintage machine you may hear about. Have you looked online at the specific sites that offer longarms for sale? That will give you an idea of what the asking price is for specific models and years. And you may find that perfect machine during your search.

Many thanks Jim, for your clear instructions. I'll be replacing my leaders this week and appreciate this info. Linda

Yay!

That size backer maxes out my leaders on my 12' frame, so you have my sympathy. My thought is give it a try as you have described. You may need to quilt in "quadrants" with a re-load for each corner. As Teresa says, the double batting/top off to the side will soon distort the quilting field as it adds bulk and presses down on the backer. I've done this once and will never do it again--just my experience. But I bet we'll be in the same club when you finish it!.

Ouch!

Legally, you can send a registered letter to the customer stating that unless payment is made within xx amount of time (60 days where I live but I think 90 days elsewhere) the quilt becomes your property to sell to recoup the quilting fees. You'll be surprised how quickly they can find the cash! If they still can't pay, you have to hope that the quilt will sell. Or donate it to whatever charity you like. Get a valuation from the charity for tax purposes. I wouldn't be a bit concerned about losing a customer--she lost you as a quilter through her own actions.

Thanks for sharing your story. It's a reminder that running your business professionally from the start will earn you respect as well as the monies that are owed you. Great reminder as well to not let your work leave your custody without full payment. I agree with Merry Jo's comment about "how much"--I can't imagine that her payment to her lawyer was less than the amount she owed you. Unbelievable!

If you're wondering about original floss colors for these treasures, look on ebay for vintage embroidered tablecloths and scroll through. I look all the time for vintage linens and find wonderful items.

Out here on the west coast, the Mennonites in Oregon will accept hand-quilting jobs. They also charge by the yard of thread used. You can opt for standard quarter-inch-from-the-seams quilting, but if you want something more intricate like feathers, cables, or Baptist Fans, they will accept the quilt if it's pre-marked. It's less expensive than a custom longarm treatment in most cases.