ffq-lar

Member
  • Content Count

    10,528
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    257

Everything posted by ffq-lar

  1. I have a lovely appliqued Baltimore album style top to quilt and have a batting question. To achieve a faux trapunto look should I load two battings? I think I saw somewhere that you can load a cotton batt and top with a thin poly batt and you can get a puffier look. I'm planning to try to McTavish around the appliques and feather the border. Am I headed in the right direction? Should I try to McTavish around the feathers? How stiff will this top be? You can tell I'm a little apprehensive!! Help! Linda Rech Olympia Wa 34 Days of rain and counting (just means I can quilt all day!)
  2. Linda, Wonderful quilting! How wide was that wonderful feathered border? I'm in awe!!! Linda Rech The sun is out today in Olympia!
  3. For a quick fix today, wrap a small rubber band around the spindle many times. This will do until you can find replacement tubing. All you want to do is keep the bobbin from spinning. Hope this helps! Linda Rech Soggy in Olympia Wa.
  4. Hi Cathy-- For a great "portable" sampler, load a length of fabric and mark 12" or 15" squares. Do your lovely background fillers or gorgeous block designs--one per square. When you are finished, cut apart with pinking shears (no raveling of edges) and fasten your blocks together with a huge safety pin or a shower curtain hook. This way if you aren't happy with a design you can redo it and throw the bad one away! This goes with you if you do a pick-up at a customer's home or you can take it to Guild. It's also easy to add to it as you improve your skills. For a stippling sample, you can put three densities of stippling on one square (you don't need to bore yourself to death!!) I made a similar sampler for different batting types and also for different thread weights. I don't do a lot of pick-ups but customers like to see and feel the different options! Happy stitching everyone!! Linda Rech Olympia Wa Haven't floated away yet!!
  5. Teri--- Go to the search bar and enter "side lighting" to get to a great thread with some invaluable info from Darlene Epp about side lighting to see your stitching. I took her advice and bought a $13 under counter fluorescent fixture at Home Depot which you just lay across the rollers when you need it. You turn off the overhead light and the light on your machine and it's wonderful. This is the best site for sharing!!!Happy stitching! Linda Rech
  6. Hi Teresa--- Since the top is a perfect square and IF it isn't directional, it won't matter where your seams lie on the back. Let the owner decide if they want those two seams to go horizontal or vertical when they make the bed! If the top has an obvious direction I would seam the back with horizontal seams so I would avoid the saggy bottom effect you get with those vertical seamed backers (since patterns are usually so much easier "right side up" ) I hope this makes some sense!! Linda Rech Lovely Olympia Wa. (19 inches of rain since Christmas!)
  7. While browsing members web sites I saw just what you are talking about---of couse I can't remember who it was! Anyway--they had their DH rasp out a section of the foot in the front. It must work for them OK. If you need to do ruler work you could have both types and trade them out. Just a thought. Linda Rech Oly Wa
  8. Here's a "be careful what you wish for" story. My sister--an accomplished piecer, was asked by her husband's best friend what she would charge to make a kingsized quilt. She flippantly replied-- $1000! You guessed it! "Can it be ready for Christmas?" So of course she spent days piecing and I have to fit this beauty into my Christmas line-up!! Soooo- if you are asked how much, best to get back to them after you do some figuring. (BTW-my sis had the fabric cost reinbursed before she started cutting and also charged the buddy for gas for our 240 mile trip to purchase fabric at Fabric Depot in Portland,Ore!!!) Happy Holidays to you all! Linda Rech Olympia Wa.
  9. For Linda Susie-- Sorry, this ruler won't work for you. I have seen a Gammill product called a GamGuide that might work for you. It has a ruler with a swiveling piece at the end that you place up against your take-up roller. You will need to check it out first --I think the Gammill tables are completely flat when they are loaded, so if your table has a front roller like the metal tables, this probably won't work either. The GamGuide is quite long and you brace it somehow with your hand or arm. I"ll ask my DH if he can think of a design that will work for you folks with wooden tables. If anybody has a photo of their table, Email it to us. Thanks for everyone's interest. Again, if anyone wants some detailed plans for the rulers, just ask. I'm trying to see if my handy hubby would make some to sell. If there is any interest in that, let me know. Happy Stitching! Linda Rech Dancing with my Millie! Olympia, Wa.
  10. Oops-- Instructions revision---After you stitch the 3 sides, turn the pocket right-side out and then stuff and finish the last seam. Sorry! LR
  11. I guess I'll date myself and say I remember these toppers from the late 50's/ early 60's. I think they were called bisquit quilts! I don't know the exact measurements, but you start with a background square --- say 4" square. Then you cut your top square maybe an inch larger--5". Place the squares wrong sides together and , by taking tucks or pleats in the larger square, you make the two squares match in length. Turn the corner and continue down two more sides in the same way until you get to the third corner. You now have a little "pocket" thing. Then you stuff the pocket with poly fiberfill and finish the last side. There is your bisquit! Make a zillion and sew them together for your topper. BTW these things were usually all hand-pieced and sewn--excellent to take along on errands, etc. The larger your top square, the puffier your quilt will be. Also, your bisquit will be rounder if you concentrate the tucks near the center of the sides. I'll see if I can find an old pattern, but I bet you can figure it out easily. This would make a great pillow top. Have fun! Linda Rech Lovin' my Millennium Oly Wa.
  12. Hi everybody---- I'm going to try to post a photo of that diagonal ruler, with the help of my DH. (Wish me luck!) If I'm successful you will see both rulers snapped onto the lower back roller. I tucked a piece of white fabric underneath so you could more easily see the setup. If you have any questions or would like some basic instructions, email me at lindarech@comcast.net . Happy Holidays! Linda Rech
  13. A rich dessert ready for the holidays----- Prepare a springform pan with a graham cracker crust (instructions on the box) Pre-bake crust @ 350 degrees for 10 minutes. Mix: 1 cup sugar and 2 lbs. cream cheese (4 bricks) Mix in: 5 eggs slightly beaten 1 can plain pumpkin--15 oz. size 1 cup sour cream 1/4 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice Heat oven to 500 degrees. (Yes, that hot!) Pour mixture into prepared crust and baked for 10 minutes.Turn oven temp. down to 300 degrees and continue baking for 1 hour. Do not open oven door. Let cool on counter and then refrigerate. It's better the second day if you can wait that long! Happy holidays to everyone! Linda Rech
  14. My handy hubby has made a ruler for me that is perfect for Irish chain or Around the World quilts--or anything with a 45 degree angle. It is made with plastic piping and a piece of acrylic. He cut the black plastic pipe to snap over the lower back roller and used epoxy to fasten the acrylic to the bottom of the pipe at a 45 degree angle. The ruler extends almost to the front roller. The pipe is secure but slides easily left and right along the roller bar. (He made two rulers--one at 45 degrees to the left and one going to the right.) It is very user-friendly and forgiving if the piecing is a little off--you can control it with very little pressure. To adjust the position you pivot the ruler up slightly and slide it. It is also great for crosshatching! Another good thing is that you don't need to use a base extender with it-- you just sort of walk your fingers down the ruler as you stitch. I will try to get some pics and post them if anybody is interested. Aren't husbands great?!! Linda Rech Lovin' my Millennium Olympia Wa.
  15. (Big sigh!) What can you say about that situation? She was deceitful and unprofessional to say the least! How to rise above that? It sounds like you have a great attitude and I am happy to be warned! You know about that goes-around-comes-around thing.......unfortunately, sometimes that takes soooo long to happen!! Warm thoughts to you. Linda Rech Lovin' my Millennium in Oly Wa.
  16. Charlene--- My DH told me that tubing is gas-line tubing for radio controlled airplanes so you may find it at your local hobby shop. In a pinch, I used a small rubber band wrapped around the spindle and it worked fine. All you really want to do is to keep the bobbin from moving as you wind and to be able to get the bobbin on and off easily. As Cheryl said, take the old tubing with you because they will have many different sizes. Just a thought.Have fun! Linda Rech Beautiful Olympia Wa. Lovin' my Millennium
  17. Hi Selah-- I had to re-time my Milli a few weeks ago and had the same problem with picking up the bobbin thread. The solutions was to adjust the finger farther out (towards the front) until it works. You will have to replace the needle plate to test it but it only took us one try to fix. Hope this helps. Re-timing is so scarey until you actually do it! It's good to know there is such great customer support for all of us. I love APQS!! Linda Rech Rainy Washington State I love my Millennium!
  18. Hi Susan- Perhaps you could start by describing the process from the very beginning. As you do this you could explain the problems you would encounter with loading the backer--such as if the backing wasn't squared up , was too short , or if it was pieced but the selvedges were left on. This way they would understand the reasoning behind all the "rules". Then you could go on to the batting and explain the different effects you can get with cotton or poly batting and also the different weights available. As you go on to loading the top you could explain the importance of having a squared top and flat borders. This would be a great time to print a hand-out with instructions for adding (flat) borders and how to prep a top for a longarm. And of course you would add info about your business! One thing I have had problems with is tops with untrimmed threads on the underside. Point out that dark threads on the back will show up bigtime through lighter pieces after quilting. Everyone is always fascinated by the actual quilting process so you might also describe the hours of practice you have done to reach a professional level! You could describe pantos and freehanding and explain why different methods are priced differently. What a great opportunity to educate and advertise at the same time! I might suggest this to the program chair at my guild. Have fun! Linda Rech Olympia Wa. Millennium
  19. Another thing to think about when you apply the binding using your longarm is whether or not the quilt top is square. Sometimes the top will start out with square corners and straight sides but the stitching will slightly distort the quilt. I apply binding on baby and utility quilts this way, but I use my DSM for most customer quilts. I will say that the longarm way is quick to learn and also to do! I have also learned to block my quilts and this will take care of distortion, especially caused by uneven density of quilting---like if you have micro-stippling around appliques and less dense stitching in the rest of the top. Deanna's tip about applying the binding as you go is great! I always learn something new here. Linda Rech Washington State I love my Millennium
  20. I only have experience taking classes, not teaching them, but unless you are teaching complete newbies half the fun is choosing your own colors and fabrics. If you are teaching novices sometimes they aren't yet confident in their own choices. Some guidance in your intro information might include color or value choices. If you are not affiliated with your LQS perhaps you could talk to them about including in your class packet a percentage-off coupon for the purchase of their project fabric. This would be a win-win for you and the shop. Good luck and have fun! Linda Rech APQS Millennium
  21. H I just finished some great classes at Innovations this week and here is a tip from an expert. In her custom class, Kim Brunner said to square and float the top. Stabilize at the first seam with either SID or basteing. She quilts the border but not the corners. She saves the corners until after she turns the quilt and says that this will help eliminate puckers because you have more control of the full width of the border and can ease in fullness more easily. Classes were great-my brain is full and my enthusiasm level is through the roof! Linda Rech Olympia Wa Millennium
  22. Whitework Quilting by Karen McTavish is a great book with lots of photos to take you through the trapunto process. She does beautiful work - and on a Milli too! Linda Rech Olympia, Wa. APQS Millennium
  23. The web site for Simply Quilts has what looks like the same maple leaf block. Go to "view all episodes" and scroll to episode QLT-703 for instructions. This episode was aired just last week and the whole quilt was lovely. Have fun! Linda Rech Olympia, Wa.
  24. The solution to quilting either way would be to make sure the top is stable. If you want to sew the pieces together and turn the top, you could pin the top and bottom edges to the leaders. For the stairstep part, use strips of non-stretching fabric and pin from the quilt bottom to the leader to bridge the gap. If you ever save the selvedges you trim off your fabric, those would be ideal to use. For extra stabilization, you could also use the strips to pin to the side of the quilt and wrap around the side uprights (where your clamps fasten) for extra secure fastening on the sides. I hope that all made sense. As for quilting the traditional way, if you don't mind some hand sewing, you don't have to bind at all! Traditional Welsh wholecloth quilts aren't bound. You trim both sides even and turn under a quarter inch of the top and backer and hand sew at the edge. That would be miles of sewing on that size quilt though! I'm a newbie who has enjoyed this chat group for a while and I have learned (and laughed) a lot. What a great bunch of generous and gifted people. I've had my Millie since last summer and did my first customer quilts in January. What an adventure! Linda Rech (yes, another Linda!) APQS Millennium Olympia,Wa