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ffq-lar

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  1. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from quiltingjoyful51 in To Make A Short Story Long!!!!!!   
    This project will help you heal---anything that takes your head away from the pain and gives you a bit of peace is a good thing.
     
    As for the clamshells? It's a perfect design since you can stitch continuous curves on the piecing to get what you want.  Mindless quilting that will be beautiful! The on-point setting will make the shells upright and be perfect. Sending a hug.
  2. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from CrazyAboutQuilting in Problems with quilts stitched with monofilament thread appraised   
    If as you say "It appeared that it had been stretched then broke. Top of the quilt threads were lifting off"-- which would indicate that the monofilament was used in the bobbin. Mono thread is inherently stretchy, so was it snagged? Were both ends of the broken strand apparent?
     
    My suspicion is that the thread didn't break from heat or wear, but that the longarmer didn't secure the starts and stops well enough. With handling and wear perhaps the ends worked themselves out of the quilt.
     
    I did a heat-test years ago on Superior Monopoly, Madiera Monolon, and Fil-tec Essence invisible threads. They are listed in order of thickest to thinnest. The only thread affected by 20 seconds of hottest, dry, direct heat from an iron was the Monopoly, which went from transparent to foggy and became rough. The other two showed no change, were smooth and stayed pliable.
  3. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from qltnbe in Spiderwebs   
    Mark diagonals from both corners through the center and two more lines that cross the block and hit the center---for interest they can be offset a bit, not symmetrical. Start in the upper left-hand corner, stitch on the mark across to the opposite corner, SID up the seam to the next line, stitch across, SID to the next line, across, SID again, and across, and stop. You have 8 radiating lines and the base of your spiderweb. Backtrack almost to the center and stitch arcs between the lines (like little spider smiles), enlarging the spirals of arcs as you advance. Fill the block and plan your quilting so you end at the base line that points to the upper right-hand corner. Backtrack on the base line to that corner and start the next block of spiderwebs. Hang a little spider down on a strand where it will show, just for interest. Have fun!
  4. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from delld in Spiderwebs   
    Mark diagonals from both corners through the center and two more lines that cross the block and hit the center---for interest they can be offset a bit, not symmetrical. Start in the upper left-hand corner, stitch on the mark across to the opposite corner, SID up the seam to the next line, stitch across, SID to the next line, across, SID again, and across, and stop. You have 8 radiating lines and the base of your spiderweb. Backtrack almost to the center and stitch arcs between the lines (like little spider smiles), enlarging the spirals of arcs as you advance. Fill the block and plan your quilting so you end at the base line that points to the upper right-hand corner. Backtrack on the base line to that corner and start the next block of spiderwebs. Hang a little spider down on a strand where it will show, just for interest. Have fun!
  5. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from T Row Studio in Spiderwebs   
    Mark diagonals from both corners through the center and two more lines that cross the block and hit the center---for interest they can be offset a bit, not symmetrical. Start in the upper left-hand corner, stitch on the mark across to the opposite corner, SID up the seam to the next line, stitch across, SID to the next line, across, SID again, and across, and stop. You have 8 radiating lines and the base of your spiderweb. Backtrack almost to the center and stitch arcs between the lines (like little spider smiles), enlarging the spirals of arcs as you advance. Fill the block and plan your quilting so you end at the base line that points to the upper right-hand corner. Backtrack on the base line to that corner and start the next block of spiderwebs. Hang a little spider down on a strand where it will show, just for interest. Have fun!
  6. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Bonnie in Ok in Spiderwebs   
    Mark diagonals from both corners through the center and two more lines that cross the block and hit the center---for interest they can be offset a bit, not symmetrical. Start in the upper left-hand corner, stitch on the mark across to the opposite corner, SID up the seam to the next line, stitch across, SID to the next line, across, SID again, and across, and stop. You have 8 radiating lines and the base of your spiderweb. Backtrack almost to the center and stitch arcs between the lines (like little spider smiles), enlarging the spirals of arcs as you advance. Fill the block and plan your quilting so you end at the base line that points to the upper right-hand corner. Backtrack on the base line to that corner and start the next block of spiderwebs. Hang a little spider down on a strand where it will show, just for interest. Have fun!
  7. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from yankiequilter in Problems with quilts stitched with monofilament thread appraised   
    If as you say "It appeared that it had been stretched then broke. Top of the quilt threads were lifting off"-- which would indicate that the monofilament was used in the bobbin. Mono thread is inherently stretchy, so was it snagged? Were both ends of the broken strand apparent?
     
    My suspicion is that the thread didn't break from heat or wear, but that the longarmer didn't secure the starts and stops well enough. With handling and wear perhaps the ends worked themselves out of the quilt.
     
    I did a heat-test years ago on Superior Monopoly, Madiera Monolon, and Fil-tec Essence invisible threads. They are listed in order of thickest to thinnest. The only thread affected by 20 seconds of hottest, dry, direct heat from an iron was the Monopoly, which went from transparent to foggy and became rough. The other two showed no change, were smooth and stayed pliable.
  8. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Bonnie in Ok in SID curves   
    Keep using your arc templates but realize that you'll need to make minute adjustments as you stitch. Even with an arc that perfectly matches the curve, slight differences in the piecing mean you'll need to go slowly and change the angle of the template quite a bit. But one nice thing is you have two sides you can use so you can avoid having to hold them behind the hopping foot. SIDing curves is a pain!  
  9. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dlnewell in Signatures for quilt after quilting question   
    Omagosh! I had a brilliant (?) idea. Making sure the fabrics don't bleed, have them sign with a fine-point blue wash-away pen. If there are oopsies the marks can be removed right there, let dry, and that block is ready for another signature. After the shower, someone can trace over the signatures with a pigma pen or other heat-set pen. Then remove the blue marks and heat-set the writing. Make sure the blue is completely gone before you iron. Test on a sample to make sure it works.
  10. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dbams in New Lenni... Thread breakage, tension issues, jerky movements...   
    Hang in there, Susan!
     
    The first thing to get under control is the tension. Thread the machine correctly all the way through the needle. Pull the thread towards the left and watch the U-shaped spring of the tension assembly to see how much it deflects as you pull. At rest, the spring should be at the 10 o'clock or 11 o'clock position when looked at straight on. You're trying for the spring to deflect from 11 o'clock to 10 o'clock (or a bit more)---or 10 o'clock to 9 o'clock (or a bit more). The thread should be pulling smoothly. Adjust the tension knob until the deflection is close to what's listed. If you don't own a bobbin gauge, use the drop test to set the bobbin tension. Jamie Wallen has a video on line that's helpful. Get both tensions set and use a practice piece to pull up the bobbin thread. A smooth pull on the each of the threads should feel the same if you have good tension. Test on your practice piece, doing ribbon candy turns to check for bad tension in the curves. Adjust, staying within the parameters , until you have balanced stitches.
     
    As for the breaking thread, it might be a separate issue. Tug on the thread to see if it's strong enough---it shouldn't break easily. Use Sewer's Aid (liquid silicon thread lubricant) to keep the thread cool and smooth. When the thread breaks, use the fly wheel to place the take-up lever in the up position. Take the end of the thread and bring it, without pulling any extra thread out, back towards the needle. See where the thread broke. It always breaks on the high point of the take-up lever so you can see if it's breaking before the eye or after. If it's before, you're looking for something above the needle plate interfering with the feed of the thread. It can be a rough pigtail guide, a rough screw near the thread path, a thread sock with a rough spot, or the thread may be flailing out and catching on something. Investigate by stitching while watching for something going on in the path.
     
    If the thread is breaking below the needle plate---check the hole for a burr, check the hook for a burr, and check that the hook retaining finger is seated properly. It's that metal piece fastened just under the needle plate that keeps the assembly from rotating. If it's too far into the slot it will catch and snap your thread.
    Wishing you an easy fix and a calmer quilting future. 
  11. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from judyday in SID curves   
    Keep using your arc templates but realize that you'll need to make minute adjustments as you stitch. Even with an arc that perfectly matches the curve, slight differences in the piecing mean you'll need to go slowly and change the angle of the template quite a bit. But one nice thing is you have two sides you can use so you can avoid having to hold them behind the hopping foot. SIDing curves is a pain!  
  12. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Liam in Little Brown Bird quilt   
    I am so lucky to be the quilter for this fabulous applique quilt. For those who haven't seen one of these, it has it's own book! My LQS has an LBB group, like a Dear Jane group.
    This one was beautifully appliqued by someone we all know...
    I will tell you who after I post some pictures and you can drool over her hand-applique and piecing skills!
    Here is a full shot of the whole wonderful quilt.

  13. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Bonnie in Ok in Signatures for quilt after quilting question   
    Omagosh! I had a brilliant (?) idea. Making sure the fabrics don't bleed, have them sign with a fine-point blue wash-away pen. If there are oopsies the marks can be removed right there, let dry, and that block is ready for another signature. After the shower, someone can trace over the signatures with a pigma pen or other heat-set pen. Then remove the blue marks and heat-set the writing. Make sure the blue is completely gone before you iron. Test on a sample to make sure it works.
  14. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from T Row Studio in Signatures for quilt after quilting question   
    Omagosh! I had a brilliant (?) idea. Making sure the fabrics don't bleed, have them sign with a fine-point blue wash-away pen. If there are oopsies the marks can be removed right there, let dry, and that block is ready for another signature. After the shower, someone can trace over the signatures with a pigma pen or other heat-set pen. Then remove the blue marks and heat-set the writing. Make sure the blue is completely gone before you iron. Test on a sample to make sure it works.
  15. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Beachside Quilter in Signatures for quilt after quilting question   
    Omagosh! I had a brilliant (?) idea. Making sure the fabrics don't bleed, have them sign with a fine-point blue wash-away pen. If there are oopsies the marks can be removed right there, let dry, and that block is ready for another signature. After the shower, someone can trace over the signatures with a pigma pen or other heat-set pen. Then remove the blue marks and heat-set the writing. Make sure the blue is completely gone before you iron. Test on a sample to make sure it works.
  16. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from GMALKB in Signatures for quilt after quilting question   
    If it's an invitation to disaster, it'll be after you finish the quilt and wouldn't be your fault.
     
    Let your friend know what can go wrong and assure her that something will go wrong.
     
    Someone won't be happy with their signature. A child will be at the shower and of course want to sign it without supervision. Marks will get on the quilt in unintended places.
     
    If she can provide 100% supervision/custody of the quilt by a helper who can hold the area flat while the person signs, go for it. A practice sandwich would be helpful so guests can see what it'll be like to sign on the fabric.
     
    If the bride (and the friend) are happy with a memory quilt with bloopers (which may be charming!), go for it.
     
    The usual signed wedding quilt is pieced with pre-signed blocks so the signer can "practice" writing on stabilized fabric and any bloopers can be tossed.
    You won't have that luxury---it'll be one-try all-in on a finished quilt.
     
    Good luck to all involved. 
  17. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dramaqueenB in Little Brown Bird quilt   
    Here is my barter quilt--I love it! It is King size with a pillow tuck so the medallion will be centered on the bed. The background is not pale blue, it is white. My camera was confused!

  18. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dramaqueenB in Little Brown Bird quilt   
    I am so lucky to be the quilter for this fabulous applique quilt. For those who haven't seen one of these, it has it's own book! My LQS has an LBB group, like a Dear Jane group.
    This one was beautifully appliqued by someone we all know...
    I will tell you who after I post some pictures and you can drool over her hand-applique and piecing skills!
    Here is a full shot of the whole wonderful quilt.

  19. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from GMALKB in Little Brown Bird quilt   
    A little wider shot.

  20. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Leida Glez in Little Brown Bird quilt   
    I am so lucky to be the quilter for this fabulous applique quilt. For those who haven't seen one of these, it has it's own book! My LQS has an LBB group, like a Dear Jane group.
    This one was beautifully appliqued by someone we all know...
    I will tell you who after I post some pictures and you can drool over her hand-applique and piecing skills!
    Here is a full shot of the whole wonderful quilt.

  21. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Oma in Little Brown Bird quilt   
    I am so lucky to be the quilter for this fabulous applique quilt. For those who haven't seen one of these, it has it's own book! My LQS has an LBB group, like a Dear Jane group.
    This one was beautifully appliqued by someone we all know...
    I will tell you who after I post some pictures and you can drool over her hand-applique and piecing skills!
    Here is a full shot of the whole wonderful quilt.

  22. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from dbams in Problem with securing stitch   
    Going with a thinner needle won't help--in fact, a bigger needle will work better. I use a 4.0 for everything unless I'm using 100 weight silk thread. Going through bulky seams at the start sometimes requires some help by turning the flywheel manually to encourage the needle through. When you hear the dreaded hummmm put pressure on the flywheel manually and in the correct direction. Dawn explained that while it's easy to plow through bulky seam intersections during regular stitching, at the start it's hard to do. Her analogy was driving a nail into wood. If you press on the nail head with the hammer, nothing happens. But if you haul back and slam it, the nail is driven into the wood. When you're at a bulky spot starting out, the needle down is like pressing the hammer on the nail. It needs more ooomph so help it along. I also recommend choosing a thinner spot to start. If you're stitching CCs needle down a quarter inch away in the direction you'll be stitching. Bring up the thread and start with a run at the intersection and backtrack out again. 
    If your needle up/down is hesitating you can up the speed. I have an older machine and mine is the famous #8 screw technique. I don't know how the newer machines adjust but suspect it's easier. Check your manual for instructions on adjusting the needle up/down speed.
  23. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from Zora in Problem with securing stitch   
    Going with a thinner needle won't help--in fact, a bigger needle will work better. I use a 4.0 for everything unless I'm using 100 weight silk thread. Going through bulky seams at the start sometimes requires some help by turning the flywheel manually to encourage the needle through. When you hear the dreaded hummmm put pressure on the flywheel manually and in the correct direction. Dawn explained that while it's easy to plow through bulky seam intersections during regular stitching, at the start it's hard to do. Her analogy was driving a nail into wood. If you press on the nail head with the hammer, nothing happens. But if you haul back and slam it, the nail is driven into the wood. When you're at a bulky spot starting out, the needle down is like pressing the hammer on the nail. It needs more ooomph so help it along. I also recommend choosing a thinner spot to start. If you're stitching CCs needle down a quarter inch away in the direction you'll be stitching. Bring up the thread and start with a run at the intersection and backtrack out again. 
    If your needle up/down is hesitating you can up the speed. I have an older machine and mine is the famous #8 screw technique. I don't know how the newer machines adjust but suspect it's easier. Check your manual for instructions on adjusting the needle up/down speed.
  24. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from T Row Studio in Problem with securing stitch   
    Going with a thinner needle won't help--in fact, a bigger needle will work better. I use a 4.0 for everything unless I'm using 100 weight silk thread. Going through bulky seams at the start sometimes requires some help by turning the flywheel manually to encourage the needle through. When you hear the dreaded hummmm put pressure on the flywheel manually and in the correct direction. Dawn explained that while it's easy to plow through bulky seam intersections during regular stitching, at the start it's hard to do. Her analogy was driving a nail into wood. If you press on the nail head with the hammer, nothing happens. But if you haul back and slam it, the nail is driven into the wood. When you're at a bulky spot starting out, the needle down is like pressing the hammer on the nail. It needs more ooomph so help it along. I also recommend choosing a thinner spot to start. If you're stitching CCs needle down a quarter inch away in the direction you'll be stitching. Bring up the thread and start with a run at the intersection and backtrack out again. 
    If your needle up/down is hesitating you can up the speed. I have an older machine and mine is the famous #8 screw technique. I don't know how the newer machines adjust but suspect it's easier. Check your manual for instructions on adjusting the needle up/down speed.
  25. Upvote
    ffq-lar got a reaction from aleksich in Oil on Quilt from Bobbin   
    1.  Clear machine oil can be removed from the quilt. Lay it flat, pile on baking soda, leave it for a few hours, and vacuum it off. If it's still there, re-apply, repeat, until the oil is gone. It's like talcum and absorbs the oil completely. If it's grease and not oil, you'll probably need to use another method and probably need to wash it.
     
    2.  Oil at the beginning of your day and wipe out all the excess. Don't oil the wicks until there is no residual oil when you touch them with a finger. 
     
    3. Sorry about your fluffy batting. I don't use that method. I just lay the batting out across the rollers and let it relax. Sorry I can't be of help with that.
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