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Robin M

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  1. I just finished a quilt with this problem and I've had it before -- I stitched in the ditch to stabilize narrow borders, accentuate piecing, etc. on the entire quilt with a very light thread (Bottom Line or similar). Then, with the thread that I wanted to show, I went back and quilted inside the blocks and quilted the borders. The front looks fine, but on the back, I have very small tucks at seemingly random places where clearly, the backing was more voluminous than the front of the quilt. I never have this problem if I don't stitch in the ditch first - such as when doing an overall design, where I roll through the quilt just one time (top to bottom). How can I prevent it? I don't think I should tighten the backing further - it's the usual amount of tight for me. I would prefer to SID with a lighter thread than the rest of the quilting, so I don't want to SID "as I go" - that is, SID for a section, quilt in the blocks, and then roll the quilt. I have a Lenni. Any ideas welcome!! Thanks -
  2. My Lenni is 3 years old, and the clamps that hold the take up roller and that hold the backing and quilt top rollers are giving me fits. I guess it's just the overall vibration of running the machine, but I have to tighten the screws (especially in the lower one) every time I advance the quilt. I'm not trying to make the quilt too tight - it would just be nice to adjust those clamps and have them stay there. Is there a solution to this problem? I'm all ears! (And yes, I've had trouble with the velcro too - put it back a couple of times and I need to do it again soon. But that doesn't solve the "loose screw" trouble...) Thanks!
  3. I really don't like to practice, so when my Lenni was new, I quilted a lot of charity quilts. I found that I needed first to get the feel of the machine and then, later, I could worry about how to get from one place to another without cutting threads, learn more complicated patterns, etc. I had to get over the idea that every quilt would be a masterpiece and just do it.
  4. Sheila, My Lenni came with the Sidewinder and I hated it. In fact, I had given one away a few months before I bought the Lenni! I bought the APQS Turbowinder. It was expensive, but worth every penny. I never can figure out how many bobbins I'll need, so I wind as I go. It's important not to lose my momentum fussing with the bobbin winder. So, yes, get a real one!
  5. I have a Lenni, and a small quilt made from silk ties backed with lightweight interfacing. What needle should I use? The regular needles (16?18? I don't remember because I bought 100 of them when I got the machine and haven't thought about it since!) just seem huge for such a fragile fabric - but then there is that interfacing, too. Or should I just quilt this on my domestic machine? Thanks!
  6. I don't know how to adjust the manual speed. I have an on/off switch, the toggle switch between regulated and unregulated, and a dial for stitch length. Here is a photo of the side of my machine. http://forum.apqs.com/uploads/post-9956-0-34509500-1414951508.jpg Is this adjustment someplace else besides the side of the machine? Thanks, Robin
  7. Barb, it works fine on the stitch regulator - nice stitch and the length I like. But if I flip the toggle down for unregulated, then nothing happens when I press the green stop/go button on the right handle. Could it be the toggle switch?
  8. My Lenni works just fine on stitch regulated mode, but when I flip the toggle switch down to "regular" mode, and press the green button on the right handle, nothing happens. Surely, I'm just having a senior moment - and have forgotten something -- or is there a problem?
  9. I've had this problem before, but now I seem to have it with almost every quilt - a small area where the tension is off and then things are fine again. I can hear it in the stitching, but I'm doing nothing different in that area than any place else. This quilt is about 50" by 60", quilted with a loose meander. Bottom thread is Glide (not pre-wound); top is Superior variegated. 4.0 needle used only for a 20" by 24" wall hanging before this. I have done all the things I know about - checking for debris, watching the thread path when I stitch (which I can't do when I'm actually quilting), cleaning everything I can imagine. Adjusting the tension doesn't seem to make sense because it's fine everywhere else on this quilt. The thread/bobbin thread/needle combo must not the be the problem because it works on the rest (99%) of the quilt. What can it be? Any advice welcome. Robin P.S. I hope you can see the photo. Let me know if it's not clear...
  10. I have a new Gadget Girl Clamshell ruler, but I can't figure out how to use it. The directions seem quite clear -- make the first row, then make the next row aove it, offset by a half clamshell. I get that, but on a longarm, we are quilting towards ourselves, so making the next row "on top" of the first one is backwards. So, do I use the ruler upside down? That would have it parallel to the rollers behind the needle. That doesn't sound so good. Do I load the quilt sideways? But then I couldn't do a whole row of clamshells without rolling the quilt several times each row. That sounds worse. Surely, I am just missing something simple here. Any suggestions appreciated! Robin
  11. I just had it happen on my Lenni for the first time. I've had the machine for about 6 months. I agree that it seems likely to happen again, so I'd like a more permanent solution.... I just put back the original velcro; it sticks okay for now...
  12. Dawn, Thanks for thinking about whether my Lenni can easily change feet. I called earlier this week and talked to Amy, and she checked my original order, and the answer is yes - I can change feet without it being a big deal. I've looked quickly at the back of the foot to see at least one screw (I didn't look for 2 at the time, and my machine is not close by at the moment), so I'm sure I'm in good shape. Any also emailed me the flyer on the feet. I agre with the other poster who wished that more of this information was on the website. I wouldn't have known about it at all if I hadn't "complained" (nicely, I hope) when Sylvia came to do my training. I thought I needed to lower my machine or something far more radical in order to be able to see the needle. My biggest question is which foot -- flip flop or sneaker? Sounds like sneaker (open toe) is the crowd favorite, but I'm wondering what APQS had in mind for each foot when it designed them. Thanks for all the good info from everyone.
  13. I have a Lenni, which came with a closed 1/4 foot. I want a different foot so I can see the needle better when the head is at the back of the quilt. I can't decide between the Flip Flop (low profile closed foot) and the Sneaker (low profile with front cut out). APQS advertises the Sneaker as good for microstippling, which I don't see myself doing any time soon. I just want to see what I'm doing! Any suggestions? Sounds like you have the Sneaker -- anyone else have an opinion?? Thanks, Robin
  14. I have a Whirlpool top loader, but without an agitator. It just has a small bump in the middle and the tub moves up and town to agitate the clothes. This is my second top loader without an agitator, and I just love them.
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