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Everything posted by hbuchwitz

  1. I buffed inside the needle hole & the bobbin basket. I have an M so it has what looks like a big mouth on it when you look down from the top. buffed that really good. Cleaned it up, added oil & it worked great.
  2. So after I finished a few more quilts it was really bugging me so I did more digging, found a post from Dawn explaining how to oil the top of the bobbin case - did that. The next quilt was awful! Didn't help that it was an old "whole cloth" scrap piece that I was just trying to stick back on & finish to let the hubs use it (it has minky on one side - he & kids fight over minky quilts).... but the batting was upside down. Kept breaking threads, changed out everything. Finally tried a different sandwich. Still had issues. Took a few minutes with Angie from APQS, fixed both the bobbin rattle (just needed MORE oil from the top) and some guidance of extra places to buff & it's great now.
  3. Ok so I hadn't heard the pigtail thing. Wasn't it. Called Angie at apqs today. Buffed things I didn't know you could buff and it's stitching great!
  4. Ugh - my machine was making some noise & between quilts I checked out some old forums (should have probably just called apqs and still probably will tomorrow), but I added some oil to the top of the hook assembly. That & a different quilt top are my only changes. Thread is breaking constantly. it's being frayed somewhere. In checking through the hook - the only rough spot I have is on the "V". That's not shown as a place to buff or not to buff on the manual. Is there supposed to be a little tick there? Can I buff it? Anybody know? I should note I have adjusted tension, changed needles twice, changed the bobbin thread & the bobbin case, changed the top thread to a different cone & a different brand (from superior/superbob to glide/magnaglide & every combination). Rethreaded fully multiple times. Thanks
  5. Yes M Bobbin. I do feel a bit silly even caring because it's working great. I think it's one of those things you get a loaner car from the dealer for the day & suddenly you are questioning squeaks and quirks of your car -which isn't broken. I will still give a call and/or play them the slow video - I think that's where the sound is the easiest to distinguish from sewing noise.
  6. Yes cleaning every quilt with WD40 & spraying with air every time I oil. What do you mean by "deep cleaning" Is that more than the between quilts air followed by wd-40 while running the machine & then dry and oil and run some more? I figured I would maybe email Dawn or give them a call tomorrow. It makes no noise without a bobbin case - not sure about without a bobbin - I haven't tried that combo. I should note - it stitches fine & has been doing this for a while - I realized it a month ago because it's not super loud especially when using SRegulation. I've been messing with stuff & paying attention for a few weeks though & now it's under my skin. I am assuming that click click isn't normal from these comments then right?
  7. My machine is less than a year old but has made this noise for a while. I thought it was just normal but a month ago my mom was here and we went long arm shopping for her. When we went to the local apqs dealer I didn't hear hers doing it. I have been troubleshooting since. Here's a fast and slower video (just changed the machine not video speed - both are with sr off). both videos are unlisted but you should be able to view with the link what I've noted so far - When I oil the bobbin area it goes away for 5 minutes things with no effect - i have changed needles multiple times - i have used different threads - i have used different bobbins (manga glide, super bob, self wound) and different bobbin cases - I checked and cleaned the top of the machine (inside left panel) - my wicks are all properly oiled all the time i oil every bobbin change and lately more often, especially this last week hubs and kids were off work/school so I would oil every time I started even though the bobbin didn't change
  8. Is the batting maybe upside down? I think you get more poking through when it's down side up loaded on the machine.
  9. I pinned a quilt today along the bottom every few inches between the top & bottom roller bars in the front. Not densely like I would when attaching it to the rollers -just enough to hold it in place while I quilted. Kind of what MaryBerth suggested but I did it between the bars so I had easier access for getting my fingers in & knew they couldn't be hit by the machine. That really helped! I ordered the clamps from Quilters Apothocary.... the magnet bars just don't work at all for me.
  10. I love that idea & I think that will totally help! I tried those magnet bars - but they don't "stick" super good - so I'm thinking I'm challenged or Harbor Freight changed them. I ordered some of the clips that Quilter's Apothecary sells but they haven't shown up yet.
  11. Thanks Mary Beth! This last one was a lot of piecing on the diagonal - so I started out with it on the top roller but just couldn't get it to roll nicely no matter how much finger "scrunching" I did (Dawn's twisty method that I have no idea what it is really called - but to overcome the seam bulk & load it "tight" on that top roller.... it was a challenging quilt with a lot of bias stretch in it. The customer has another one coming so I want to know what to do next time to make life easier!
  12. So nobody actually basted across and down the entire length of the quilt without quilting the exposed area? That's what I was wondering to counteract the problem on the very large quilts. How does the tape measure thing work Mary Beth? Do you have a picture?
  13. I've had some issues with extra wide (king) quilts & ending up with excess fabric by the time I get to the bottom. Happens floated, pinned, with the pinned I can see the problem earlier but still don't know how to fix it! My side borders bow outward even if the top itself doesn't. I even had this happen on a whole cloth quilt with extra wide back for the backing & the top... no piecing at all and I didn't even worry too much about the edges being off - I just quilted straight down & made my "cut" line if that makes sense.... but I still ended up with loosey goosey in the bottom when I got there. I posted a question pertaining to this in pantos but didn't get any response. This section had a similar question but I saw a lot of comments about straightening rollers - mine are pretty new still (machine since July). So I'm wondering - would basting across & up/down all the way through the quilt and then going back to quilt help?
  14. I'm wondering this too - and not necessarily for modern quilts.... just extra wide ones. Should I be basting across all the way down & then going back to do the inner quilting? I only have this issue with very wide quilts, pinned or float.
  15. I've done two king size quilts now with all over pantos. I'm running into an issue that I don't have when doing similar size free hand. Wondering what I should be doing differently. I loaded the king with the largest dimension on the rollers. The first one I fully floated - the second I partial floated but eventually unrolled & ended up floating the end. Both pantos had a lot of stitching but not overlap in the design. These were free hand "traced" pantos - not computer. I basted the top, and edges (Lucey) the full width/height of the usable area, applied side clamps & then stitched the panto. I advanced 1/2 of the height of the usable area, basted down, clamped & did the panto again..... repeat repeat repeat. By about 2/3 way down I could tell my side borders were having some issues - they were pulling in compared to where the "free" fabric was. By the time I got to the end of the quilt I had a lot of excess fabric side to side. When I loaded the quilt the two edges were within 1/2" of each other but I put the longer one on top. Should I be doing something differently for such a wide quilt with a panto? Since only 1/2 of the usable height is being stitched before I advance should I only baste that far? Should I baste the whole quilt & then quilt back "up" to the top? What other ideas? Thanks!!!
  16. Lynn - it's the busy prints & a super close color match thread that gets me! I'll try a side light.
  17. If it's not too late - I just took the class from Dawn & it was amazing!!!!!! I wonder if she'd work out some sort of virtual option for people who don't have a local dealer & are far away from Iowa.
  18. The glide liking only 1 hole has a reason! When I just recently took my intro class I did it in Des Moines. For most threads (So Fine is one) you thread the machine as stated in the manual... but some threads are wound onto their cones differently & a different thread path through the 3 holes makes more sense to "unwind" the twist put on by the cone. Others (glide & other trilobal threads) function best when not unwound - so feeding the thread through "straight" works best! If you have a chance - take your free class in Des Moines from Dawn - I learned SOOOOOO much! I got my Lucey in July & just went in late October. I was a bit worried because I was pretty comfortable before I went and was thinking I could have used it more 2-3 weeks into having my machine.... but that extra practice time actually helped me understand more of what she was talking about. Also - if you have issues you can call APQS & they will walk you through troubleshooting on the phone. You are going to love your machine!
  19. I have had my Lucey for a little over 3 months. I just took the two day classes in Des Moines. I debated a few purchases while there. Would LOVE some input on both before I decide for sure! First - upgrading my Lucey light to the black light version. I think after seeing it I would turn off the light more than actual black light. The Lucey is just always on. Second - front thread cone holder. I do change colors and quilt from the front a lot. But I'm not sure I would enjoy the extra bulk on top - does it feel stable as you are "flying" across a quilt? Thanks!
  20. Thanks everybody! I usually float mine - I feel like there is too much tension if "I" use the take up roller in the front. It's a panto (not a simple one but not too dense) and solid white front & back for this customer so nowhere to SID or do other "tacking" type stitches. I think I will float it like I normally do. I've noticed with the denser quilting that I should baste even smaller pieces before hitting up the dense quilting - so that makes sense for those who mentioned it.
  21. When you load a very large (king) quilt do you baste the entire quilt before starting? Or do you baste as you go?
  22. Thanks Leslie! I think it's a mark of how much I'm using it already - I had an easy first few weeks & after being out of town for a week I've had a few problems as I change things out etc. I'm really looking forward to my 2 classes with Dawn - but I'm not scheduled until October for that!!!
  23. I sewed a bit with a bobbin I wound. Took longer but it still frayed. I rethreaded through the tension discs and still. I'm going to switch bobbin cases and try again tonight - leaving the house for the afternoon so I'm done for a while today. I could hear the metal bobbin 'clunking' as I sewed. I have mostly used prewound though - so is that normal? Also the little arm thing that goes up and down on the top right (sorry no time to look up the name) stops partway up when I hit needle up. Maybe that's right but I feel like that used to be all the way at the top...? Ugh. I had zero problems until I changed needles and now it just isn't quite right.
  24. The thread path - did I miss something here? . I can't find a burr but I noticed that at some rotations the needle is puncturing the cardboard of the superbob. It does not do this to metal bobbins. I'm switching to a metal. Is it possible the bobbin pigtails caused this or a bad pre wound? Thanks! Eventually I will remember to flip my phone for photos. Wish I could flip back to how they were taken.