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Found 3 results

  1. I would really like to get into the ear of the powers that be at APQS. I've had a bee in my bonnet about wasted space in my frame for MONTHS. I can't let it go! FYI, I have a 2015 Lenni. I think it is a CRYING SHAME that there is a LOT of wasted space inside my quilting frame. It is especially important to me because I'm short (5'0"), but it applies to us all (eye sight!). I removed my quilt top belly bar, because I float ALL of my quilt tops. I have NEVER rolled a quilt top, and never want to. So, since my quilt top belly bar is absent, it's all the more obvious that I've got, like 8" o
  2. So this might be a crazy question, but is there anyway to float the quilt backing too? Here's the story, I have a new customer that is intent on saving as much of her fabric as possible. Her quilt backing is two widths of fabric sewn together, but she decided not to cut the widths even because one fabric had nearly a half yard more length than she needed. Her idea was that if I started quilting at the top edge of the backing (this edge is even) then stopped quilting whenever I finished, she would be able to cut off the extra and get a larger hunk to save for later than if she cut it even b
  3. Getting into some great wholecloth designs. A couple of instructors extradonnaire, namely Helen and Shirley, have advised to starch, starch, starch to death a wholecloth design to minimize the amount of movement and relailgnment when quilting a wholecloth (did I get this right Helen and Shirley?). Rather than email them privately, I have decided to open this topic to discussion. When thinking this through, I usually float my tops and batting, but if equal tension and heavy starch is in order, do it not seen more reasonable to tension the quilt top (at the bottom after basting the top to
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