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Found 8 results

  1. My old hopping foot (for my 2011 Freedom) wore out, meaning the screw holes got stripped to the point where the foot would jiggle and wobble as I quilted. If I needed to use a ruler, the ruler would push the foot over to almost under the needle. I had already bought the kit of hopping feet, so I tried a couple of those, and I loved them. But, I really wanted my regular hopping foot for using rulers. So, I bought a new one, along with the shank to screw it into. The new hopping foot was shaped different from my old one, and I was worried it might not "agree" with the old shank. The new shank is longer than the old shank. My biggest issue is with getting that screw that holds the shank in place to move at all. If you look at the attached picture, you'll see the hole where your screwdriver is supposed to go into the machine head (on the right as I face it). The screw in the picture is on the right with me looking dead center into the hole, meaning my screwdriver will need to be at an angle to loosen the screw. Oh my gosh! I can't tell you how hard I worked to get that screw to move! I decided I needed to take both of the side covers off the machine head in order to better reach that screw. In the process, I messed up the tension spring. One of the reasons I am telling you this is to forewarn you to have as many spare parts as you can on hand. They don't cost much at all ahead of time, and you will be so happy that you did when something goes awry. Anyhow, after I got both covers off, I tried to get that screw to move, but it would not budge at all. I sprayed it with some WD-40, still nothing. So, I let that sit awhile and went to work taking apart the tension spring and putting a new spring in and then went back to work on that screw. Still nothing. I worked and worked and worked and finally got it to move. Yay! The old shank moved. I have a couple of questions regarding the shank and the screw. At first I tried to replace the old shank with the new, but I could not figure out how to get the old one out and the new one in. Even with the plate above the bobbin basket removed, the bobbin basket and the parts around it are in the way of the shank. I can't take it out from above, because another part is in the way up in the machine head. So, how on earth do you replace the shank? I decided to leave the old shank in place and just attach the new foot. It is shorter than the old foot, so the shank sits lower in the "thingy" that holds the shank in place...where that screw lives... If I am able to use the old shank without it falling out, I will probably need to adjust the hopping foot height when I swap out hopping feet. I am worried about getting that screw to move again and also being able to access it. Does anyone have a trick for keeping it "move-able" and also for accessing it at an angle without having to remove the metal side (cover) of the machine head? Thank you for your help!
  2. I am quilt for a gal that is wanting to use 2 layers of warm & natural, need to know pros/cons. Do I need to adjust to a longer stitch length so that it does not create a tightness and cause it to pucker? All opinions welcome TIA, Diane on a Millie
  3. Hi we adjusted our hopping foot the other day as we notice the stitch plate was wearing, then I notice about an hour later the hooping foot needed to be adjusted again as it moved Today I have notice the hoping foot moves up and down quite freely and I am pretty sure it should not do that at all So I tried to adjust again and i am able the move the hoping foot up and down easily Any help would be greatly appreciated Joy Australia
  4. I really like doing ruler work. However, I cannot get the back of my hopping foot up next to my ruler. I'm using DeLoa's castle or her Little Bitty. My ruler hits the angled shank of the hopping foot before the ruler gets up next to the foot. This causes me to have a larger than 1/4" stitch line when using the ruler on the back of my hopping foot.. I have a 2013 Millie. Maybe I'm not using the right foot. Would someone please post a picture of the correct foot to use with a ruler, please? (take the pic from the side so I can see how the foot and shank are supposed to look). Thank you so much!! 8-)
  5. I could raise the hopping foot on my old 2004 Millie but the one I got in January 2013 doesn't have the same opening. I don't normally do "thicker" quilts but this is a t-shirt top with batting and a fuzzy blanket back. The t-shirts tuck as I try to go across and create a pleat. Any suggestions ??
  6. APQS Quilting Machine System Ultimate I with Regulated Stitch 14 ft. table, Hartley extended base plate, raised edge hopping foot, edgerider wheels, laser, Regulated Stitch, bias tool, 4th rail, thread cutter, 26" X 10 1/2" throat size! *The Ultimate I was the best Ultimate (comparable to the Millennium in size and for add-on's) Circle Lord stylus and Swirls boards INCLUDED! Bias Line Tool for Cross-Hatching INCLUDED! 14 Foot Table, (plexi-glass with optional vinyl) You can Quilt 130"+ Thread cutter (needs to be re-attached) - cut the bobbin thread from the handle! upgraded Extended Base Plate - Hartley for ruler work upgraded Raised edge Hopping Foot added (used with rulers) upgraded Edgerider Wheels - so smooth Adjustable Laser Light (battery, no cords to deal with) - includes changeable tip size upgraded Regulated Stitch- large basting stitches to very fine micro-stippling stitches (Intelli-Stitch- $2,950.00) Single Stitch Up or Down needle control Stand alone bobbin winder Horizontal Channel Lock Fourth Rail - store batting, load any additional filler 26" X 10 1/2" throat size (you can quilt as far as you can reach!) finish a large design in 1 pass! *Very Low Usage and runs great! I bought it in 2008 from a gal who hadn’t used it in years (dusty, buried in corner) and since then I’ve probably done a half dozen quilts a year on it (just for family and friends). Gear Box repacked, raised sides hopping foot (guide fits against edge of any rulers you want to use), Including the Swirls boards by Circle Lord (this is a favorite!), snap on bias rulers for easy cross-hatching, a couple of acrylic rulers for ruler work, timing set, extra bobbin case (can adjust for those special fun threads) and bobbins, will throw in manual (binder filled with tips and trouble-shooting notes!), extra needles, some 100% cotton thread cones (new), misc thread (some variegated) and a few pantographs to get you started. $6,500 - less than 1/2 the price of a new system. (plus shipping if necessary) Set up to try in West Point, UT (between Ogden and Salt Lake City) call me at 801-726-5343 or email at ckeindl2atyahoodotcom with any questions! *Thanks for considering!
  7. I haven't quilted a lot of quilts yet, but so far I've usually used one layer of either 80/20 Hobbs, or 100% cotton. I just loaded a quilt that needs 2 layers of batting. Do I need to raise my hopping foot? It's lightly touching the top of the quilt. I don't have any different needles, so I hope that's not an issue, but I also don't know how to raise the hopping foot. I have a 2013 Freedom. Any advice would be appreciated. Lori
  8. My husband and I are trying to replace the broken hopping foot on my 2012 Millenium. We have the hook assembly, locking collar etc removed but cannot get the hook shaft to move back into the machine to take out the broken hopping foot. Any one have ideas on how we can get it to move. Typically it is now a holiday here in Australia and soon will be in the US so am not able to contact APQS direct. Looks like I might have to do some outside work instead of quilting.