eula Posted December 7, 2008 Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 I just loaded my first real quilt. I squared the backing (or so I thought I did) & pinned it on the take up roller. Then went back & sewed the batting onto the backing - less than 1/4" seam. I got under the machine & looked at the backing before loading my top. I'm doing a full float. I then lined my top up to the seam holding the backing & batting together. I thought everything was good but checked under the backing one more time and saw fullness on the right end when standing at the front of the machine. It seems to start about 18 inches in towards the center. I don't have my clamps too tight because I can see the fullness without the clamps on. I looked at both ends. On the left side the top & back are snug against one another. On the right side the backing billows away from the top. I'm ripping out the seam right now. But I'm not really sure what to do next. Also what do you use as a ripper. The ripper that came with the machine doesn't really work that well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawaii Posted December 7, 2008 Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 Eula, You mentioned that you are doing a full float. Are you pinning the bottom of your backing to the backing roller at the front of your machine and then floating your top and batting? This is how I usually do it and enables me to see right away if I have issues with the back BEFORE I actually lay the batting and top on the backing. Clear as "mud"?????!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eula Posted December 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 Yes, I also pinned the backing to the take up roller. However, I used a regular stitch when I sewed the batting down and the top. I couldn't remember how to do a basting stitch. But I think I remember how now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonnie Posted December 7, 2008 Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 Eula...it wouldn't matter if you used a basting stitch or a regular stitch to get the batting down...that isn't what is causing your fullness. By fullness are you seeing a even fullness across the back or are you getting a fullness in the middle and tight on the sides or are you getting a fullness on one side and rather tight on one side. ANY of the above are results of not a completely square backer.... Recheck your back it could be off as much as 2 - 3 inches or as little at 1/2 inch and with each roll its making the mess bigger and bigger. Can you take a picture and post your problem. You may only need to iron the backer a bit with a hot steam and that may also take care of the mess....let us know what you figured out when you get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eula Posted December 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 Bonnie, it's just on one side and it's not a lot of fullness. I've got it ripped out so I think I can just pull that side up a little & repin to the take up roller. Anyway, that's what I'm going to try. I'll let you know how it works. Thanks ya'll! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonnie Posted December 7, 2008 Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 Okay...I'm pretty sure that your problem in not a completely square back....but as you said the fullness in only on one side. I take waste batting and tuck it into the roller from the bottom to take up the excess....Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eula Posted December 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 I just pulled up a little & repinned. I think it will be OK. We'll see! I have some applique in the top border. Should I stitch in the ditch where the border meets the top 1st or go around the applique 1st? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonnie Posted December 7, 2008 Report Share Posted December 7, 2008 I always do ditch work first...that way the outside are stable and the inside won't get wonky...if you do the inside first they outside may or maynot have taken up all that it needs to.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathyA Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 Another way to take care of that fullness in the backing is to roll it up using your advance as if you were quilting - before putting on the batting - and then reverse and roll back down on the roller. Believe me - it works. More than one teacher at MQX gave this suggestion over the years. Takes out that uneven 'slope' every time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilting Heidi Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 Eula, Sounds like you had good advice from Kathy and Bonnie to get your problem solved. In the future try loading your backing up onto the take-up bar completely and then roll from there onto the front bar. I find that even if my backer isn't completey straight this will help alleviate the puckering that can sometimes happen. Very seldom I'll get a stubborn backer and I may have to go back and forth a couple of times but it usually alleviates the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ffq-lar Posted December 8, 2008 Report Share Posted December 8, 2008 I pin on the backer to the front roller--to a perfectly straight edge--either a selvedge or a torn-and-ironed edge-and put it under the leveler roller and over the top take-up roller. I pull the backer over the roller and make the fabric tight--like it would be if pinned. The full bulk of the backer is then pooled onto the table or the floor. I make sure the fabric is smooth and tight. Then I go to the front and use the reverse pedal on the power advance to start loading the backer onto the front roller. The canvas on the back roller will grip the fabric and help it stay in place as the roller rotates. I go slowly and stop to smooth and make sure the fabric stays tight. It is not pinned to the back leader at all--just hanging over the back roller. The weight of the fabric hanging down keeps it nice and tight. I continue advancing and smoothing until the far end of the backer just clears the top of the table. Now, since you were careful to load the whole thing smooth and tight, you can tell if the backer is square by looking to see if it is parallel with the table top. If it is not parallel, mark in on one side with a pin to note the extra length and pin the backer to the leader using one edge as a guide and the pinned edge as the other guide. Now the backer is pinned on square from top to bottom. To check for square on the sides, as you roll before pinning, if you have kept the top smooth and tight, any error on the sides will make the backer "spool" onto the roller with excess on one side and coming in on the other. I find (by feeling the loaded fabric) where the first pin-head is at the beginning. The distance between the hidden pin and the closest edge of fabric on the other edge is the usable width of fabric you can be safe to use for quilting the top. I mark on the top roller canvas where those two edges are --with a blue wash-away--and load the top between those two marks. Did that make sense? Pin a straight edge, flip the backer under and over the rollers and make smooth and tight, advance the backer onto the front roller, find the straight line of the far edge, and pin it on straight. This works best with one-piece backers--especially those wide-backs that may have been cut crooked. A pieced backer will be harder to load straight but will work if the seam is parallel to the rollers. This works for me--I don't need to measure and tear--except for perhaps the first edge and any backer can be loaded straight. Another benefit is you can catch those un-square big backs at the beginning so there are no surprises when you are half-way through quilting and are running short of backer at the sides. Yikes!! BTDT! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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