Daisy2018 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Am setting up new Milli, have decoded instructions, have it running. Have several questions: How long do you run it to warm it up with no thread, ? Do you leave the bobbin in while you do this? Because I haven't any friends with one of these, I have no idea about ease of movement of the carriage. Mine seems very stiff, takes quite a bit of push, then burbles when I try to go around a circle. Exactly what do I do, which wheels, there are many of them.... My DH assures me all is square and level. Thank you, I really have enjoyed all the new pictures of quilts this week. Pat Froelich;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreadWaggle Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 When I start up the machine I blow it out with compressed air and then spray WD 40 on the bobbin area. (no bobbin or bobbin holder inserted.) Stop the machine at about 11 for about a minute. Turn it off wipe off the WD-40. Then place a drop of oil on the bobbin race and turn the machine back on for a couple of minutes. I stop the machine then insert the bobbin/holder and finishing threading the top of the machine. As far as stiffness in the movement of the machine, you can adjust the wheels on the carriage. I am sure that someone will post with instructions on how to do this. I have not had to play with mine since the initial setup and my DH did it for me then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoryJM Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Hi Pat, When I first start Mel in the morning, I let him run for about a minute on stitch length 11 with no bobbin. I just hold the top thread off to the side. I try to remember to oil when I'm done at night, but at the very least, I oil (one drop only) after each bobbin and then I run the machine for about 30 seconds to be sure its distributed. Check your manual regarding the wheel tension. There's a section in there with really great pictures about how to set them and play with them until they're right for you. Also, make sure your husband used a level and didn't just "eye-ball" things. My table looked off, but the level proved me wrong:D Your machine should float and being able to make circles is really important. After you get it moving the way you want, practice and play with it alot on muslin or practice fabric. The more you do now, the more things will make sense when you have your one-day free training. Good luck...and I can guarantee you it gets better with time and practice:) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daisy2018 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 LOL I'm not used to seeing some of this in print. My DH took 3 days with 2 college sons to set this up!!! He is German, extremely precise, used a 6 foot 4 way level, measured with woodworking calipers, the whole enchilada, I'm absolutely sure it's right! If only I could be as "right"!!! I'll look to the manual. Should you be able to move the carriage with only a finger? I'll be trying everything and PPP, Thanks, Pat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoryJM Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 That depends on what's comfortable for you. I like mine a bit tighter because I like more control, others like theirs more loose. Its totally what fits you. Did you like how yours felt when you "test drove"? If so, you might shoot for that feeling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mary Beth Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 It may seem like you cannot form circles just because you are not use to the movement. It takes a lot of practice to get the cirlces to look less like squares I warm up my machine on a very low speed, like about 9, and let it run while I check out new posts on this forum. Then I start stitching. Always warm it up with the top unthreaded back to about the tension disc and no bobbin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kennan100 Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 For sure keep the top thread out of the way while you warm up, you don't want it getting caught in the flywheel! There were posts a couple of days ago about what teh gaps in the wheels should look like, where the rails should ride in the inside curve of the wheel so that you have that buttery feeling. Ease of movement is going to be adjusting the wheels to what feels good to you. And congratulations on your machine! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kristiequilts Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Wow. I guess I didn't read the instructions - I never warm up my machine. What have I done to my machine? EEK. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juliagraves Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Be careful when you oil - I always run on a batting scrap after I oil, just in case the needle picks up a little excess oil and transfers it to the fabric... ask me how I know... If this happens, sprinkle a little cornstarch on the oil spot on your fabric and let it dry - the cornstarch should soak up the oil Julia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TracyeQ Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Originally posted by Kristiequilts Wow. I guess I didn't read the instructions - I never warm up my machine. What have I done to my machine? EEK. Kristie I don't warm up either. I'm bad, I know (well, so does anyone who knows me). The down side for me is that if it's cold in my room then the needle up/down is sluggish until we get warmed up. I can live with it. I go to all the trouble and waste of thread to tie my old thread to new cone and pull it forward, why would I want to unthread every day to let it stitch nothing. I'll be gentle with it. It can warm up while we're working. That being said, I haven't left it sitting for more than a couple weeks. If it had be sitting unused for a month or so I'd probably consider warming up. I'm a faithful oiler, blow it all out with an air compressor, all that stuff. This is my only big rebellion. Well, that and I've never used WD40 either. I want to, I just can't remember to buy any and don't want to use the stuff my DH SWEARS is the same thing just a different brand. They can spank us with a wet noodle together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meg_marsh Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 At first I didn't take time to warm up - really didn't pay attention. I now warm up it have found it does run smoother from stitch 1, so I guess it does make a difference. While warming (about an 11) - blow out lint, clean rails, etc. Final step - WD 40, blow out and wipe up any WD 40 and finally add the drop of oil & run again for about 30 sec. All of this only takes a few minutes and well worth the time. Wheels - the manual shows great pictures for adjustment. When I first got my Millie, I liked the wheels very loose, then tightened abit as I got used to the machine and it's movements. Recently I switched the the Edgerider wheels & am happier than ever. Mary Beth hit it right on when she said it will take lots of practice - Each day will make a difference with your comfort level. I looked at my first practice piece the other day and what a difference almost 6 months has made!! Your improvement will amaze you!!! Relax, practice, & have fun!!:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmcclannan Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Warm up??? Oops - I guess I didn't read the manual carefully either. I noticed the needle positioner is really slow when I first start my Lenni up. I guess it's been telling me - HELLO, I'M A LITTLE COLD AND STIFF HERE!:P:P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quiltmonkey Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 My "start up" routine involves turning on the machine and letting it run in slow speed 7 or 8 (no thread in needle and no bobbin inserted). While the machine is running, I take a moment to wipe down the table and run a cloth along the rails. After that, I do my WD40 and oil routine. She's all warmed up and lubed up and she's ready to purr for me!! Happy Quilting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoryJM Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Shana...what's your WD 40 routine? Do you WD and then oil? I know I definitely need to wipe down my rails...I keep getting black stripes on my hands. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheri Butler Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 http://www.apqs.com/quiltboard/viewthread.php?tid=7426 PFroelich, the above thread shows how the wheels should be riding on the rails. I have also sent you a U2U. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quiltmonkey Posted January 20, 2009 Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Originally posted by DoryJM Shana...what's your WD 40 routine? Do you WD and then oil? I know I definitely need to wipe down my rails...I keep getting black stripes on my hands. WD 40 routine. Yes. Absolutely. Mucho importante. A must. Gotta do. WD 40 cleans the gunk and dust buildup from the moving parts. Oil lubes the moving parts. My Madeline loves her bath of WD 40 and then her oil. She loves both of these things very much. If she's a happy girl, then I'm a happy girl. This is what I do: 1) Remove bobbin and thread from needle. Turn on the machine on low speed to warm up. While this is running wipe down table and rails. Check wheels so no threads are stuck in there. 2) Air compressor (the best thing I ever got. That thing is a great piece of equipment to have). Turn up speed of machine to like 9 or 10 and blow out the bobbin assy area all over the place, around all the spots top and bottom for at least 1 minute. all sorts of fluff and specks come flying out. Be careful to keep air nozzle away from moving parts!! I also stop the machine and while air compressor is going, I hit the blue button (thread cutter blade) a few times and you would be surprised sometimes what comes flying out of there, too! I don't always remove my needle plate and thread cutter plate, but you should do this every once in a while to wipe off the dust and goo stuck under there. 3) Turn speed down to 7 or 8 and spray well with WD40. let it ooze and bubble for 30 seconds and then squirt in another blast; let run for about 1 minute. Turn up speed to 9 or 10 and let this spin out. Stop machine and dab excess WD 40 with paper towel or scrap of cotton batting from the walls of the bobbin assy area. I don't really rub the bobbin assy itself; just the walls around it. I try to not jiggle that area (bobbin assy) too much with my hands. 4) Then stick the oil spout right on that little notch area (3:00 o clock) and place a drop or two of oil right there and hand crank around a few times to dispurse oil around the race/hook of bobbin. Then dab lightly underneath with towel or batting scrap. I don't touch the bobbin assembly with my cloth, except mayby lightly dab underneath if there's a drop of oil there. I don't touch the bobbin assy with my cloth, really, except underneath. Also check the wicks. I don't oil the wicks every time. Depends. Otherwise it's easy to over-oil. Be careful about over oiling the wicks. 5) I'm good to go. I always run the bobbin and thread on a piece of scrap fabric or batting for about 30 seconds to get the excess oil off before moving to the quilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daisy2018 Posted January 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2009 Dear All, Thank you so much for all your ideas, I had no idea I would get so much detailed advise. I plan on trying it out tonight when DH gets home and I get brave. The thread SheriB recommended was excellent, should be moved permanently to the Learning to area of the forums.... I will get back here to report tomorrow. It's kind of comforting to know that many have experienced the same set up "hitches". I can't wait to get all worked out! Pat:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heirloom Quilter Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 I'm brand new to this posting thing. I have been reading all of your posts for the past couple of months and finally got up the courage to send one. I have a Liberty machine that I have quilted about 5 small quilts and 1 full size quilt on. I don't remember anyone telling me to use WD40 or oil every time I turn my machine on, or anything about warming the machine up. I'll have to see if that helps me to start out more smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TishMarshall Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 I do warm up prior to using my Greenie.......my challenge is with the wheels not moving smoothly. I have done my best to level the table and yet I still find it hard to move the machine when it's closest to me........hummmm I've chatted with Dawn and she's offered me quite a bit of advice but I still seem to be struggling. Good luck to you. Tish Originally posted by PFroelich Am setting up new Milli, have decoded instructions, have it running. Have several questions: How long do you run it to warm it up with no thread, ? Do you leave the bobbin in while you do this? Because I haven't any friends with one of these, I have no idea about ease of movement of the carriage. Mine seems very stiff, takes quite a bit of push, then burbles when I try to go around a circle. Exactly what do I do, which wheels, there are many of them.... My DH assures me all is square and level. Thank you, I really have enjoyed all the new pictures of quilts this week. Pat Froelich;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoryJM Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 Originally posted by quiltmonkey from the walls of the bobbin assy area. I'm assuming that "bobbin assy" is a technical term which can be found in the APQS manual's index...right??:P Honestly, though, I'm going to print out your routine and be a follower. I figure the more I do to prevent problems, the better off I'll be. Plus, I've been oiling at 6, not at 3... Thanks, Shana! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quiltmonkey Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 Oiling at 3 gives your oil drop a little more wiggle room to drip down before you can grab the handwheel and crank it. Plus that little notch is kinda handy to put the spout on. Bobbin assembly - bobbin assy (I'm too lazy to write it out...it's the abbreviation, plus it gives me a good excuse to write "assy" without getting slapped and it makes me sound like I'm a tech, but I ain't). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smorris Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 Great instructions Shana! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DoryJM Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 Oh, Man, so "assy" really was a techinical term. Shows what a techy I am....NOT:P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 I often have a quilt loaded when I 'warm up' the machine, so I tend to clean and oil after finishing a project or just before loading a quilt rather than when I turn the machine on and warm it up. It also seems to me that I can warm it up just as well by just turning it on and letting it sit that way and without the needle actually going up and down. I have tried it both ways, but it doesn't seem to make a difference. It runs just as smoothly when it warms up without the needle moving as with the needle moving. I never just start sewing after I turn it on, however, as it runs really slowly and also doesn't sound very good, so I assume that is not good for the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smorris Posted January 21, 2009 Report Share Posted January 21, 2009 Hi Sheila I think you are right. I believe its about warming the electronic boards more than the moving parts, especially for the needle positioner. Sue in Australia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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