Leaders ON zippers

[lizziesgirl]

I am going to attach small leaders onto my zippers, because my chain stitch machine broke (boo-hoo) and so I'm going to use the chain stitch part of the serger, hopefully.

Question: What type of leader do you have on your zippers if you have them? If you have used pillow ticking, did you wash it first? and did you go by the lines to be straight?

Thanks, I know I can ask some of the weirdest questions but that is just my personality.

[Quilting Heidi]

I used gross grain ribbon on mine. It has lasted over a year so far without any distortion.

[lizziesgirl]

Heidi do you have pictures. Please.

[Quilting Heidi]

I'll try to get a picture tonight.

[MarieBrewer]

The chain stitch on your serger is probably not the same as your chain stitch on the sewing machine. The chain on my machine is a single thread which does not "lock" therefore you can just pull a string and the whole thing falls apart. On my serger its a double thread which locks and has to have the threads cut with a seam ripper/scissors to get the chain apart. Just a thought

[DawnCavanaugh]

Sheryl,

While I personally still pin my quilts directly to my canvas leaders, here's how I advise beginners who wish to use zippers (and will work for you since the zippers are off the machine):

[*] purchase 4-5 yards of 45-inch wide canvas, depending on the length of your table (I found it easily at Hancock Fabrics, but any sturdy fabric will do). This will give you plenty to create "false leaders" that attach to both the zipper and machine canvas so that you can remove or reposition them easily.

[*] cut the yardage lengthwise into three equal pieces, then cut the three pieces in half lengthwise one more time. You should have six long, skinny pieces of canvas.

[*] two of those six pieces will have selvedge edges; use those for your most-used rollers, such as the backing and pick up rollers.

[*] If you partially float your top, you'll need another piece for the quilt top roller. To create a straight edge that stays "on grain", first serge or stay stitch the long raw edges of one long piece. You are going to create a "hem" on one edge.

[*] Lay the strip on a table. Decide how wide you want the "hem" to be (I'd recommend 3/4" - 1"). Start near one end of the strip and measure in the distance you've chosen. Mark the spot with a marking tool or straight pin. Now the fun part! You're going to "score" the canvas to create a perfectly straight edge. This will be the edge you will pin to, like the selvedge edges of the other two pieces.

[*] Grab a needle (a 4.0 from the machine works great), and rest its tip next to your reference mark or pin right between two threads on the fabric. Hold the needle so that its top edge is pointing down the length of the fabric, and the tip of the needle is dragging behind. The needle will be at about a 45-degree angle to the fabric.

[*] Now apply downward pressure on the fabric with the needle, and DRAG the needle slowly down the length of the fabric, watching that its tip always stays between the same two fabric strands on the fabric. (Needlework enthusiasts use this trick to find the center point on a piece of cross stich fabric or linen).

[*] You should be able to "score" the canvas all the way down the length.

[*] Now take the scored edge to your ironing board and carefully fold the fabric right on the score. Press it in place. Sew the edge in place.

[*] The remaining raw edges of canvas do not need hems, but should be straight to aid in attaching them to the roller. Use the scoring method again to create a straight line along the long grain of the canvas, then cut the canvas on that straight line. Be sure to stay-stitch the canvas so it won't unravel.

[*] By adding a mini leader to EACH side of the zipper, you can easily attach the zippers with basting stitches on your longarm or even straight pins or safety pins.

[*] This leaves the other end available for marking reference marks that help to center quilts, ease in borders, etc.

Of course, be sure to align the "centers" of all three rollers and zipper sections before attaching or marking them, so that your quilts stay square.

Wow! I hope that doesn't add more confusion than explanation!

[lizziesgirl]

Marie, The chain stitch on the serger isn't the same as my sweet, broken machine but if I have it loose then with a little more work I can get it to release and pull.

Dawn, WOW, thanks a bunch. I printed off your instructions. I have pinned the quilts before but I really like my blood inside my fingers. For some reason I see a pin and blood appears. Glad that is not the case with you.