quiltaholi_518 Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Hi all, I know many of you have installed new leaders, and for any of you with an opinion, here's my question... I would like to use a 10 denier canvas (much heavier than what was on the machine to start), and have read previous posts on gluing, taping, etc. BUT, do you think I should launder/preshrink the canvas? The previous canvasses seemed to shrink, and now it;s very hard to get a square quilt back on straight. I would like to think if I go to this trouble, they will last longer than the originals. Any thoughts??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bonnie Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I think the shrinking would be a good idea, however each canvas does something different. Maybe taking a sample measuring it and then wash is in the hottest water and double check the results. Did it stay square....how much did it shrink etc..... If the results aren't favorable then maybe I would rethink the washing, but personally I think its something needed, as you say with time they seem to shrink and this way you will have all that out of it. When I do mine again, I had thought I would preshrink as well, but so far haven't needed another set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kimmiequilts Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 I Know whart you mean Caron, my take up leaders seem to be shrinking in toward the center at the edges. I roll and tug and re-roll but I guess I'm going to need new leaders sooner rather than later. I like Bonnie's suggestion for testing the shrinkage. Keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheri Butler Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Caron, Mind if I ask, will you be out alot of $$ by trying to pre shrink it? Seems logical that if you pre shrink you wont ever have any problems with it, and that the canvas is heavier too, makes complete sense to me. Weigh the options of trying ONE leader first. Hot wash, dryer, dry press????? I'm curious, and am thinking i'd test one if I were you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quilting Heidi Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Caron, I'm thinking that shrinking the fabric may not be my first concern. You aren't going to get the leaders wet so preshrinking doesn't seem necesary to me. I would worry about how much that fabric stretches. If it stretches a lot when you pull it with the grain or against the grain I'd be weary. All fabric has some stretch on the diagonal but some more so than others. You might want to look at drapery lining fabric. It is tightly woven and doesn't have much give at all. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KathyA Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 I really need to replace my leaders as well but am concerned (really just a fraidy-cat) about getting them square before placing them on the bar. How many feet should I use? Are the ones from APQS squared already? Is there a Utube or some type of instructions on this anywhere out there on the web....? Guess I'll just keep thinking about it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daisy2018 Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Most fabric stretches very little on the straight of grain, so any leader must be cut lengthwise, The best fabric to hold up to repeated pinning would be very dense, ie holes and loosness couldn't develop. If cotton, the longer the staple, the more stable it would be, Have heard of some who have tried an outdoor nylon duck, very hard to pin? Old fashioned trigger hemmed at the pinning end ( really 2 layers thick on edge) I've seen on many old fashioned quilt frames, these are lots of times stretched tighter than our frames. I've repaired real sailcloth sail, doesn't stretch, but I wouldn't rec. it!! I will be watching the chats to see what everyone's experiences are, someday I'll need to replace it too.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DawnCavanaugh Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Hi Everyone, Just a couple of thoughts regarding new leaders: [*] When we attach the leaders at the factory, we align one selvedge edge with the straight "seam" that is created when the rollers are formed by the welder. If you unroll your fabric to where it's attached, you should be able to see it. We use Liquid Nails near the seam, and then a few pieces of tape. The Liquid Nails is probably overkill, but that's the current method. [*] When customers buy replacement leaders from us, we advise them to simply duct tape the leaders to the roller, aligning a selvedge edge with the roller seam. Be sure to pay attention to the way the canvas unrolls from the roller, so that you re-install it the correct way. [*] Use water-soluble marker to make temporary "center" marks on your canvases. No matter how careful and perfect you are, the canvas will still shift a little to the left and right as you handle it. Re-check the centers before loading every quilt, for at least 6-8 quilts. When the canvases finally settle in to their "comfort" spot on the rollers, then you can permanently mark the centers. [*] Everyone has different opinions/feelings about pre-shrinking canvas, replacing it, stretching it, etc. My 2-cents worth is this: [*] If you choose to replace canvas, and your concern was with "stretch" in the center of the roller span, be sure to choose replacement canvas that is tightly woven. This will reduce stretch and skewing as you load quilts. Yes, pre-shrinking would tighten up the canvas quite a bit. But read on for more cautionary info: I recently had to re-line 200 band uniform sashes with heavy canvas after they began to mold inside plastic tubs after a particularly hot day of performances---not fun. The first thing I discovered was that pre-washing did cause shrinkage, about 5-7%. It also made the canvas softer, but extremely wrinkled (even though I removed it from the dryer when still quite damp). It took lots of steam-ironing to get it presentable but some fold lines were still visible. [*] If your canvases have become "warped" in the center from over-stretch, you can create a new edge without replacing the canvas. Pin the pick-up roller canvas to the top roller canvas along the length of the machine and tighten the rollers. Put in a brightly colored top thread. Use the longarm and vertical channel lock (Freedom and Liberty owners, use the gold knob on one of the sewing head axles to lock the machine) to stitch a straight line about 1 inch below where the pins are, right on the quilt top roller. Now unpin the canvases, and fold the quilt top roller canvas down carefully along the sewn line. Pin in place. You've created a folded hem in this canvas. Re-pin the two canvases together, and use the longarm again to stitch the canvas hem in place. Repeat with the other canvases. [*] You can remove the canvases and do a new "folded hem" straight edge on your canvases on your home sewing machine, too, now that you know how to re-attach them easily. Finally, be sure you aren't stretching your quilts too tightly, which can increase how those canvases stretch in the center. (The stretching is normal, since the cross grain of the canvas is wrapping around the roller and the lengthwise grain lays along the roller's length.) I may be an odd duck, but after 15 years I still have the SAME canvas leaders I started with, along with the same canvas edge. I unwind about 1 foot to 1-1/2 feet of canvas on each roller and tug on the canvas to straighten it between each quilt. Does it revert to the stretched curve? Yes. But each quilt starts out square and I've never had trouble with borders wandering or other issues. Remember, I only said this was worth 2 cents.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quiltaholi_518 Posted February 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Thanks Dawn, and everyone else. This 10 denier canvas is very dense. A very little stretch accross the WOF, but NONE along the length. I use the zipper system, so no problems with the pinning area. I think I will just serge the edges, but good to know that the welding seam makes a great place to line up the edge. I am hoping that the Liquid Nails is not a PITA to remove. If It is, I may just slice the old canvas off and leave the glued part on. Even though from time to time I zip the leaders together and clamp the daylights out of them, I still have a fair amount of distortion. I will take some pics along the way, and post my success (!!!) on my webshots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merryjo2003 Posted February 2, 2009 Report Share Posted February 2, 2009 Funny this topic posts when I'm at the point I decided to do new leaders. I've seen the Nolting leaders and they're much heavier canvas than came on my Millie. I think they will not have as much of a problem stretching. I think I'll just check out some canvas or ticking and see if I like it better. I tried the "channel lock" and re-sewing the zippers on. I still have a problem with the right side of the backing leader. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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