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Starting/ending


MarieBrewer

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Hi Marie,

When I start a panto, I place it about a 1/4 inch down from where the binding will end; that way there is a little breathing room for the pattern. For me, the last row ends up where it ends up, and I do a partial pattern that probably goes off the edge of the top (so I baste the bottom edge very close to the raw edge so it doesn't end up turned back as I go off and on the edge with the pattern). In the beginning I spent some time figuring out the spacing so I would get a full pattern on the last row; but I didn't like how far apart the rows would end up by doing that. Some people will put a partial row in the first row, so the top and bottom look about the same, but none of my customer's have complained about my method.

As far as attaching the bottom of the quilt top to a zipper, yes I sew or pin it 1/4 inch from the edge.:D

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While taking a class from Jodi Beamish, she suggested the first row of panto be only a portion of the height, the bottom of the design being off the quilt. This way the partial design on the top of the quilt will look similar to the partial design on the bottom of the quilt. It took a little concentration to do the first row, but the results were great. It looks like the design was planned to be incomplete on both the top and bottom. No measuring if the design will 'come out evenly'. Works for me.

Grace

Good Gracious Quilting

Mille

Oregon

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I use compuquilter now, which calculates the space, BUT prior to that I always put part patterns on both top and bottom of the panto. I used a lot of Jodi Beamish pantos that had the partial row already drawn for the top - and I just ended the design where the quilt ended.

A trick that I used when I got to the end was to run the machine acorss the bottom of the quilt (not sewing) and mark on the panto (using the laser light) where the bottom of the quilt was. I did this with coloured overhead transparency sheets, cut into approximately 2 inch strips placed end to end across the quilt. I just sat the strips where the laser light shone - then went back and stitched the design. When I got to the spot where the quilt ended (on the inside of the 1/4 inch seam for the binding), I stitched straight across to the next panto design line, this meant I did not have to stitch any of the panto off the edge of the quilt.

This was also a handy technique for marking the edge of the quilt on the sides (espicially those quilts that arn't cut square).

Cheers

Cherie in Australia

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Hi Judy.

In most cases you do the panto edge to edge so that it goes into the border fabric, but there are always exceptions. You can also do the panto in just the body of the quilt and treat the border separately with a border design. I just finished a quilt that is very dark and the stitching wouldn't really show, but there was applique in the border and I knew I didn't want to do a panto over the applique. So I did a panto in the blocks, treated the 3 innner borders as one and did a stencil design and then attempted some mctavishing around the applique in the outer border. There are no rules that you have to follow, just be creative. This was one of my own quilts, so I got to experiment without worry.

Hope this helps.

Patty

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Thanks for all the advice. My second all over panto turned out great. Patty, you did such a nice job on the quilt. What was the panto name and the stencil? The green sheet stencils were so foreign to me. I was used to painting stencils. I had to call the manufacturer and ask how to use them.-Marie

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Karen McTavish is a quilter. She developed a method of quilting that

gives lots of dimension and movement to quilts. Simply put, it is a series of

5 short curved lines which change direction half way thru the 5th line. She

has a couple of books out. I just bought her book "Mastering the Art of

McTavishing ". Good stuff. Here is a link to an info page.

http://www.apqs.com/quilterkarenmctavish.htm

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