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This happens a lot! When I'm quilting, the thread loops way out before the "take up" bar pulls it up - then when I stop this happens. I have to go back and pull the thread straight again before I can start again.... I think this happens sometimes too as I'm quilting and the thread loops around the needle and breaks.

Is this just a simple adjustment that I don't know about?

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Hmmm interesting! OK so I understand that it loops before the thread gets to the takeup lever? Have you tried using a thread net on your cone? Maybe add another pigtail guide between the take up and the rear to give it a little more smoothing. And speaking of pigtail guides, I am seeing yours above your needle and in the photo it looks a little rusty and worn? Am I seeing this? If so, Bobbi, you might want to replace all of your pigtail guides to nice new shiny ones. :) That might help, too.

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Bobbi

My first thought is that is the purpose of a check spring. When looking at your tension assembly the back part of the check spring (before it makes the loop) against the side plate should be in the 11 o'clock position. Make sure the tension assembly is not pushed in too far or the spring will bind on the cover. Our machines will operate with very light tension but there must be some for the check spring to function.

Hope this helps.

Nigel

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You weren't supposed to notice my icky pigtail Shana.... but you're right, I've just never gotten around to it. ( I knew I shoulda cropped that out!!! LOL)

I have a piece of batting in the hook/guide above the thread that should keep the tension smooth to the front.

Here's a pic of the way the thread loops, (I pulled it out for exhibit purposes) this is my take up lever at rest, is it in the wrong position? Should it finish higher?

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If you need instructions on adjusting the position and tension of the take up spring just email me and I will send them to you. It's function is to remove the slack caused by the lever. After time the spring will not function correctly, the solution is a new spring. Do not replace the tension assembly @ $15, change the check spring @$2.50.

John

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What kind of thread are you using? It looks wirey.

I would take off your pigtail and take off the rust with an emory cloth. Your thread could be catching on the roughness of the rust.

You could also put those porcelain fishing pole guides in place of your pigtails. Those you can get at Cabela's or a sporting goods shop.

Or you could order a couple of new pigtails.

Are you using Singer 4.0 or 3.5 needles?

I always ask myself, "When did it start doing this?" What did I do different or change on my machine when it started doing this?

Work your way backwards when a problem occurs.

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Bobbi,

What you're experiencing can often happen due to the twist in the thread. As the thread passes through the three-hole thread guide just above the tension disk, we normally advise quilters to "wrap" the thread around the guide. The purpose of that wrapping action is actually to untwist the thread as it exits the spool.

When the thread re-twists at the needle as it's doing for you, it's a sign that the wrap method is actually twisting the thread MORE. when tension is released at the needle, the thread recoils back on itself and twists together.

This is especially true if the spool isn't "cross-wound" (the thread criss-crosses the spool) but is instead "stack wound" (the thread wraps around the spool in stacked circles, like Coats and Clark, some metallics, and some YLI, among others.) Those spools work best mounted horizontally, so that the spool spins and feeds the thread without creating additional twist.

However, cross-wound spools can cause trouble if the thread is coming off the spool differently, and the wrapping action at the three-hole thread guide adds even more twist. Sometimes just turning the spool over solves the problem. If it doesn't, then try "weaving" the thread through the three-hole thread guide (up into the first hole, down into the second, up through the third) like you are running a basting stitch through the guide with the thread. This prevents the thread from twisting as it enters the tension disks.

Good luck!

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Bobbi,

Are you quilting a t-shirt quilt in the pic above? Or one that has used a fusible? Sometimes if there is a "rubber" design (some fabrics are not actually prints... but a "plastic-like adhesive design" that can be removed by scratching with your fingernail), or a fusible stabilizer, adhesive, etc.; this will cause your thread to grab and get stuck in the fabric- especially as the needle heats up during quilting... When the thread can't freely pass in and out of the fabric , it will also cause loops like this. I am just offerring another possible cause to consider in addition to Dawn's great advice..... Hope it helps!

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Wow, thanks to all of you! I'll try the suggestions above...

John, I'll email you later, Dawn, I'll check how my thread is going thru the 3 hole guide. What you said makes sense. And I will take care of my pigtales, I had already used an emery stick on them just not the outside.

I am using Signature, and a Singer 4.0 needle...

Tina it IS a t-shirt quilt, however I noticed this problem a while back. It just got REALLY irritating on this particular quilt.

I'll let you know how it goes later today.

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Ok, so now I'm completely Jazzed!!!!! THANK YOU DAWN!!! I changed the way my thread went through the 3 hole guide, and voila! Problem solved.... the thread doesn't loop out as I'm sewing, nor does it kink up when I stop! How kool is that!?

THANKS!!!!

BTW, Tina, on this quilt, I am not quilting over the "plastic" letters as there are so many of them and there are many new shirts not washed several times so the plastic is stiffer. I'm quilting around them... when I'm done I'll post this in the Quilt pics thread...

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